Hike Haida Gwaii

Category: Recreational/ Interpretative

  • A Bird-Watching Destination – The Simpson Tower Trail

    A Bird-Watching Destination – The Simpson Tower Trail

    • One of the bird towers on the trail
    • The trailhead signage for Simpson Tower Trail
    • The crude map on the Simpson Tower Trail
    • A sneak preview to the Delkatla trail

    Simpson Tower Trail Features:
    Delkatla
    Bird-watching
    Dog-walking

    ABOUT

    Every spring, millions of shorebirds leave their winter homes and fly north to nesting grounds in the Arctic region. A key migration route lies along the western edge of North America – the Pacific Flyway.

    Birds making the long journey will typically stop for a brief sojourn on Haida Gwaii at the Delkatla Sanctuary. Here, the sanctuary’s marsh, ponds, and dense conifers provide an excellent place to rest and gather nourishment for the long journey onward. For us, it also makes for some excellent birding as well.

    One important trail – as part of Delkatla – is the Simpson Tower Trail. The layout of this 1.7-kilometer (one way) the route is kind of interesting. Once you turn onto Cemetery Road, you will see the trailhead about a hundred or so meters in on your left, as signified by a marker.

    The parking lot, however, is found at the trail’s northern terminus point, nearly 2 kilometers away. Nevertheless, the route is a pleasant and easy stroll since it basically runs parallel to the road. As you walk through the treed side of the sanctuary, take the time to listen for beautiful birdsong and appreciate some of the quirky artwork/signage along the way. As you hike, you may even catch a glimpse of the chatty Steller’s Jay or Hairy Woodpecker, both of which are endemic to Haida Gwaii.

    At several spots along this route, the trail dips into the various meadows and ponds of Delkatla, giving birders easy access to parts of the sanctuary. If you began your hike at the trail’s northern terminus (parking lot), a short route there leads you to the Simpson viewing tower which, you guessed it, is where this trail gets its name.

    Please note that while the trail is classified as “easy,” lack of maintenance has made parts of the trail kind of rough. You will encounter some deadfall along the route, but nothing major.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 3.4km (return)
    TIME: Approximately 1 hour
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Golden Spruce Trail – Old Growth Forest within the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy

    Golden Spruce Trail – Old Growth Forest within the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy

    • Golden Spruce Trail
      Early part after the trail head
    • Golden Spruce Trail
      The trailhead sign of Golden Spruce
    • Golden Spruce Trail
      This is one of the key featured tree on the trail – showing a nursing log sustaining new growth
    • Golden Spruce Trail
      The trail is well-maintained

    GOLDEN SPRUCE TRAIL FEATURES:
    Haida legend
    Old growth trees
    Access to Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy

    ABOUT

    The Golden Spruce Trail is located approximately 10 minutes (3.5 km) outside the community of Port Clements and represents a brisk 20-minute roundtrip walk. Up until January 1997, the end of this short well-manicured trail led to a viewpoint whereby you could see and admire Kiidk’yaas, the Golden
    Spruce.

    Golden Spruce Trail
    An old photo of the Golden Spruce. Credit: Marla Abbott

    The ancient tree, estimated to be about 300 years old, was a massive Sitka spruce known for its rare golden needles. It figured prominently in Haida stories. Unfortunately, in mid-January 1997, the tree was chopped down by the deranged “protester,” Grant Hadwin. His actions sparked international outrage; the tale is powerfully told in John Vaillant’s The Golden Spruce (2005), a must-read and primer for anyone wanting to walk this short trail. Context is essential to understanding and appreciating this sacred place.

    I had the privilege of seeing the actual Golden Spruce in June of 1996, a mere 7 months before it was felled. The trail was a bit narrower back then, but still easy to navigate. Seeing and being surrounded by the massive old-growth forest was a fantastic experience, but nothing could compare to seeing Kiidk’yaas in person. Its golden foliage radiated in contrast to its greener relatives and the almost black Yakoun River at its base.

    Currently, the Golden Spruce Trail has been widened and is accessible to those with mobility issues. The old-growth forest; the soft and lush moss; monumental trees and decaying nurse logs still maintain and hold their power over those who hike the trail. It is a very serene experience; one heightened even further by the plaques, designed by the late Ben Davidson, placed throughout highlighting the Haida’s spiritual, emotional, and practical attachment to the land.

    Once you reach the end of the official trail, you come upon a viewpoint that, up until about 3 years ago, allowed you to view the skeleton of the Golden Spruce. Now, all that remains is a stump, which is difficult to see and identify. In a very real sense, the walk is both beautiful and tragic at the same time.

    In death, however, we often find life. After the Golden Spruce fell in 1997, a number of cuttings were taken from the tree in hopes of planting “golden” offspring. One such cutting has indeed survived and is viewable in Port Clements’ Millennium Park. The golden needles shine bright and radiant.

    While the official Golden Spruce Trail is only 400 meters one-way, it is possible to walk nearly an additional 2 kilometres along the “unmaintained” portion of the trail (indicated by signage at the end of
    the “official” route). In our view, the reason you may wish to hike this route is for the golden opportunity it presents to explore more of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy. The Conservancy has been used by the Haida for at least 10,000 years and is rife with historic, cultural, social, and spiritual meaning – something very evident along this trail.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 800 meters (official trail)
    TIME: 20 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Let’s Walk to the Early History of the Watun River Road

    Let’s Walk to the Early History of the Watun River Road

    • watun-river-road-old-docks-remnants
      Lasting structures – remnants of the old docks at the end of the Watun River Road
    • watun-rive-road-spilling-to-masset-inlet
      Watun River spilling over to the Masset Inlet
    • Top view of the remaining dock structures
    • Near the entrance of the road

    Watun Road Features
    Historic remnants of a cannery
    Docks remains
    Fishing spots

    ABOUT

    The Watun River Road, which has also been identified as a trail elsewhere, is accessible just off the Watun River Bridge, approximately 20 minutes south of Masset. The road is roughly 400 meters in length but is often muddy.

    We would not recommend driving the length of the road unless you have a 4-wheel capable truck. If driving a standard vehicle, a safe alternative would be to pull off to the side of the bridge – where there’s ample parking for at least 3 mid-size vehicles – and walk the length of the road. It’s a brief and easy trek, taking only about 6 minutes to reach the mouth of Watun River and Masset Sound. As you walk this route, you can enjoy the scenic beauty that surrounds you. Western hemlock, ferns, and grasses dominate the trail landscape and are often blanketed by lush mosses.

    Once you reach the terminus point of the trail/road, you’re treated to the unique wetlands protected by the Kamdis Conservancy. These intertidal shallows are rich in vegetation and sea life: sedges, grasses, and rushes abound thanks to the rich waterways and soils. If walking here at low tide, use caution as the area can be a bit slippery.

    Beyond the wetland expanse, you’ll undoubtedly notice old wooden pillars off in the distance. These are all that remain of a primitive dock system that used to be in the area. Decaying and returning to nature, these columns have their own charm about them now. These old pillars might also be part of the Watun River Cannery that existed in the area from 1919- 1930.

    As part of the Kamdis Conservancy site, the Watun River road/trail access is important for ecological and cultural purposes. Here you can get a glimpse of early settler development while also seeing but a small part of why Kamdis is a significant intertidal estuarine wetland complex. It’s a short hike (or an even shorter drive), but the rewards are many!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    LENGTH: Approximately 400 meters
    TRAIL TYPE: Out and Back


  • Challenge the Slopes to Scout Lake Trail

    Challenge the Slopes to Scout Lake Trail

    • The Trailhead sign – following the blue markers
    • The not-so-helpful sign

    SCOUT LAKE TRAIL FEATURES
    Sloped trails
    Lake on top
    Boggy environment

    Note that in some literature Scout Lake is also referred to as “Charlie Hardie South Lake Trail.”

    ABOUT

    Locating the Scout Lake Trailhead marker is an adventure in itself. To find this trail, you first have to hike the full Charlie Hartie Trail, which clocks in at approximately 800 meters one way and has an elevation gain of 160 meters. After about an hour of hiking, you’ll come upon the official terminus point of the Charlie Hartie Trail, as indicated by a fork and some signage. One arrow points left towards “Charlie Hardie,” but blowdown and lack of maintenance have made this route towards the creek virtually unnavigable. The right-pointing arrow, on the other hand, indicates the route to Scout Lake and, in effect, represents the trailhead. From this point onwards, it’s an uphill climb – of just over 1 kilometer in the distance – towards the small lake. Blue tape indicates your path.

    The Scout Lake Trail, much like the Charlie Hartie that precedes it, is rough, narrow, miry, and quite steep in some places. For much of the climb, you’ll be making your way through dense forest, but there are a few monumental cedars along the way. Seeing these giants up close really helps to put things into perspective and highlights, only too clearly, why protecting our forests is important.

    Just before reaching the zenith of your climb, you will have to descend into a small ravine and cross Templeton Creek before climbing again and finally reaching the flat bog lands. This part of the trek is fairly straightforward in summer, but if you hike the route during winter be prepared to deal with plenty of packed snow and ice.

    Once you reach the bog, the ground is mostly flat and it’s an easy hike to Scout Lake from here. Just make sure you’re wearing good waterproof gear and be cautious of the numerous small pools dotting
    the landscape. DO NOT step in these. They may look shallow but they’re deceptively deep!

    As you close in on Scout Lake, you’ll come across one of this hike’s more interesting features – a sign that looks like it came right out of a Dr. Seuss book! It points every which way and nowhere in particular. The wooden sign gives general distances to Scout Lake, Regier Lake, Chinukundl Creek, and Queen Charlotte. We’ve wondered if it’s possible to hike towards Regier Lake from here.

    Once you reach the Dr. Seuss sign, Scout Lake will be to your left (or west) – a little over 5 minutes away. Just follow the pink tape on what looks like a deer trail and you’ll eventually reach your destination. When we saw Scout Lake, it was still partially frozen, which added to its charm.

    All in all, Scout Lake is a good, albeit challenging, hike. It is more scenic than the Charlie Hartie, though we say that only because Scout Lake actually leads somewhere rather than ending at a random point (as
    the existing “Charlie” does). Hiking to Scout Lake, you encounter beautiful green mosses; monumental cedars; and a unique bog environment, featuring salal, Labrador Tea, and a host of other flora. In brief, it’s a challenging but rewarding hiking adventure!

    DIFFICULTY: Hard
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 3.5 kilometers return (including Charlie Hartie Trail)
    TIME: 2 hours one-way
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: 395 meters

  • Experience a Magical Hike at Monique Creek Trail

    Experience a Magical Hike at Monique Creek Trail

    • Monique Creek early afternoon
    • Mirror-like reflections
    • River bank trails
    • Reflections in the calm creek waters
    • The Magical Sitka Spruce!
    • Monique Creek around dusk
    • September makes this trail a foraging destination

    MONIQUE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES
    Magical Sitka Spruce
    Forage destination during Fall Season
    Fishing spots along creek

    ABOUT

    The Monique Creek Trail, like the Three Mile Creek Trail, is found deep within the Tlall Conservancy. Accessing it in the current day requires a bit of effort because the original point of entry – Survey Forest Service Road – was formally decommissioned in 2016 after years of disuse.

    Now, if you wish to visit this trail, you’ll have to drive nearly 1.5 hours along the Daajing Giids backroads: First, drive approximately 20 minutes along the QC Mainline (passing the decommissioned Survey Forest Service Road) until you come upon the un-signed junction for Lakes Main Road, near the Mile 17 marker, to your RIGHT. Take this turn and follow Lakes Main for nearly an hour – you will eventually connect to what’s left of the Survey Forest Service Road. Once here, turn to your RIGHT and park your vehicle. You will see the decommissioned section of the Survey Forest Road. For all intents and purposes, this is where your hike begins.

    You must hike along the Survey Forest Road for approximately 3.5 kilometers before hitting the “official” Monique Creek Trailhead. This portion of the hike is relatively straightforward and easy; however, the numerous trenches dug as part of the decommissioning process – there are more than 10 of them – can be a bit of a challenge. Long grass has grown over the rocks, making footing a little uncertain.

    The official Monique Creek Trail begins at an overgrown spur road and will be to your LEFT. An orange arrow – one of the few still left after 20+ years – and an extremely faded trailhead sign indicate the start of the route. The official trail follows the spur road for a few hundred meters before turning off into the dense bush. Because most of the trail markers have gone, it’s very easy to miss the turnoff point, which is exactly what we did. We continued hiking along the increasingly overgrown road for a good 5 minutes before realizing we were off the trail.

    Because the turnoff point is extremely dense, how do you know where to depart the old road? The best answer we can give is, as you’re hiking the overgrown road, keep your eyes peeled for a lone orange trail marker pointing BACK towards the Monique Creek Trailhead. From the marker, turn LEFT into the dense bush. This is where the route gets fun because the trail is almost non-existent at this point. There is the odd marker, but they’re far and few between. We spent 30 minutes in here, trying to find our way.

    Once you emerge from the dense bush, you’re rewarded with the lovely confluence of Survey and Monique Creeks. You’ll spy a trail marker on the opposite side of Survey Creek. Cross here. There apparently used to be a natural log bridge, but it’s not there anymore. Be prepared to get your feet wet unless you’re wearing boots! After you cross, walk upstream along Monique Creek.

    The Monique Creek is a nice example of a coho spawning stream flowing through old-growth forests. Unaffected by development, it’s an ideal place to study the unique habitat features for spawning coho. As we hiked along the creek, we found many frogs, some elk tracks, and salmon Fry in the creek!

    By the route’s end – just minutes after a log jam – you’ll come upon the trail’s star attraction: A large Sitka Spruce that has a creek running through its roots! The tree is a special sight and well worth the hike.

    Unfortunately, trails like Monique Creek have fallen into severe disuse due largely to the difficulty associated with getting to them. Once upon a time, you could probably do this hike in a couple of hours; however, because you now have to drive nearly 1.5hrs + hike 3.5km before getting to the trailhead, it is best to give yourself a full day to enjoy the serenity of nature.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (return, official trail); 10km (return, from Survey Forest Rd)
    TIME: 6 hours
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: 40 meters

  • Kumdis River Trail – Walking to the Ecological Kingdom

    Kumdis River Trail – Walking to the Ecological Kingdom

    • Aerial shot of the Kumdis River and the bridge
    • Calm Kumdis River
    • The logging barge and the river flow spilling into Masset inlet
    • The logging barge up close

    KUMDIS RIVER TRAIL FEATURES:
    Environmental research
    Barge remnants
    Duck hunting grounds

    ABOUT

    The Kumdis River Trail is a short out-and-back route located approximately 2 kilometers outside the village of Port Clements. Like most trails on Haida Gwaii, the Kumdis River Trail lacks a formal trailhead; however, it is easy enough to find. As you drive along Yellowhead 16 towards Masset, you’ll come upon a small pullout to the immediate left of the Kumdis River Bridge. This short dirt road essentially represents the trailhead.

    At the very beginning of the hike, you’re treated to lovely views of the Kumdis River and promised a flat trail to complete. The Kumdis River often acts like a mirror on a clear and calm day. The trees on the opposite side of the riverbank flawlessly reflect on the water. The end result is almost dream-like – quiet reflections hinting at what’s to come.

    Walking the rest of this short trail is fairly uneventful and straightforward. For the first few minutes, you walk through a nice pocket of old growth filled with towering red cedar and thick Sitka spruce. You then pass through a grassy clearing before re-entering the forest. Finally, just before entering the grasslands and sedge at Kumdis Bay, you come upon what, in our view, is a highlight of this trail: Stunted and twisted trees covered in long, wispy old man’s beard lichen. It’s quite a sight and unlike most anything, you’ll see on Graham Island.

    Once you enter the grassy lowlands of Kumdis Bay, you can take a few moments to explore and appreciate this unique environment. Part of the Kumdis River conservation area, it’s not uncommon to see the Council of the Haida Nation, in partnership with NCC, conducting necessary fieldwork. As an estuary, this area is home to a plethora of fish, invertebrates, and waterfowl, giving Kumdis high ecological importance.

    It’s most curious (and even a little ironic), then, when you spot an old barge once used to transport logs resting on the river. It has been here so long – close to 100 years – that it’s now become part of the landscape. Moss, shrubs, and trees now dominate the structure. Nature is taking over!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 820 meters (return)
    TIME: 20 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None


  • Exploring Damaxyaa Conservancy – Louise Dover Trail

    Exploring Damaxyaa Conservancy – Louise Dover Trail

    • Louise Dover Trail
      The Hans Creek showcases its clear waters
    • The Dover Falls describes itself as a “hard trail” on its trail marker.
    • The bridge across the Haans Creek was built on top of a natural log bridge tree.
    • Louise Dover Trail
      Haans Creek on a calm waters

    LOUISE DOVER TRAIL FEATURES:
    Old Growth forest
    Culturally Modified Trees
    Dover Falls

    ABOUT

    The Louise Dover Trail is located adjacent to the Haans Creek bridge, just before entering Sandspit. Initially conceived in the mid-1990s, the trail is named after Louise Dover, an influential woman of Haida ancestry who lived in the community of Sandspit. In many respects, the trail is an apt memorial and tribute because it introduces hikers to key elements of Haida Gwaii: Important fish streams; unique flora and fauna; ancient Haida culture; rare geology and fossils; and, a larger appreciation for how everything depends upon everything else.

    In 2008, the Dover Trail became part of the larger Damaxyaa Heritage Site and Conservancy. Encompassing some 829 hectares, the conservancy plays host to important fish-bearing streams – one of which is Haans Creek – and contains a high density of recorded culturally modified trees (CMTs), a few of which can be spied along the Dover Trail. Both in pre-history and the current day, Damaxyaa is an important place for the Haida in terms of food gathering, medicine and culture. A seasonal Haida camp known as Kil was originally located at the mouth of Haans Creek, but no evidence of this remains today.

    Most official documentation on the Dover Trail clocks it in at 3.5km in length, but 4km is much more accurate. The first 200 meters are dubbed universal access, and bring you to a handsome viewing gazebo, thanks to significant upgrades completed in the autumn of 2020. After this, the trail becomes narrow and rough for most of the loop.

    Expect a lot of “up, down, up down” for much of your hike. Once you hit the mid-way point of the Dover loop, you’ll see a marked side trail. This leads you to a lava bed and fossils – one of the trail’s key highlights. If you ignore this trail, though, and continue along the main Dover loop, the route climbs quite steeply away from Haans Creek. Near the end of your climb, a small stake in the ground indicates 400 meters of “hard” trail leads to a waterfall.

    If you’re feeling ambitious, it’s certainly worth the effort; however, be advised that much of this side trail is steep and muddy with a couple of rope sections. Early in, you also have to get creative in getting over a fallen monumental cedar tree.

    The final section of the Dover Trail loops back towards the road and trailhead, connecting with the trail you started near the natural log bridge at Haans Creek. Much of this trail is muddy, but home to many old-growth Sitka Spruce and Cedar trees. As you hike back towards the trailhead and Haans Creek, you’ll spy at least one CMT with a large “test hole” in it. You’ll also come across the “Skyline Trail,” which remains closed for whatever reason as of this writing.

    Many who visit Haida Gwaii declare the Dover Trail to be their favourite overall hike. The terrain is varied; there are a number of side trails to visit and explore; it offers a glimpse into the old-growth forest and Haida culture; and, it represents a great way to reconnect with nature. Think of it as forest therapy.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 4km (longer if exploring side trails)
    TIME: 3 hours
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: 106 meters

  • Roughing It Out at Three Mile Creek Trail

    Roughing It Out at Three Mile Creek Trail

    • The flow of Three Mile Creek makes silky waters
    • There is no clear evidence of a trail left
    • Some clear parts of the creek
    • Going down from the bridge and road
    • The trail is covered by overgrown foilage
    • The Three Mile Creek trail is showing a bit of erosion
    • There are some minimal trail markers but the safe route is to follow the creek back to the bridge
    • The creek has a lot of dead falls and flooding debris

    THREE MILE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES:
    Salmon spawning creek
    Cascade
    Tlall Conservancy

    ABOUT

    The Three Mile Creek Trail is found deep within the Tlall Conservancy. Accessing it in the current day requires a bit of effort because the original point of entry – Survey Forest Service Road – was formally decommissioned in 2016 after years of disuse.

    Now, if you wish to visit this trail, you’ll have to drive nearly 1.5 hours along the Daajing Giids backroads: First, drive approximately 20 minutes along the QC Mainline (passing the decommissioned Survey Forest Service Road) until you come upon the un-signed junction for Lakes Main Road to your RIGHT.

    Take this turn and follow Lakes Main for nearly an hour – you will eventually connect to what’s left of the Survey Forest Service Road. Once here, you’ll spy a bridge that crosses Three Mile Creek.

    If you’ve come all this way to hike the trail, do NOT cross the bridge because the unsigned trailhead for Three Mile Creek Trail is just before the bridge on your RIGHT.

    Lack of maintenance for nearly two decades has made the route difficult to see but the faint outline of a trail is there. Descend the minor slope and begin your trek!

    In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Three Mile Creek Trail – along with the nearby Monique Creek Trail – was promoted in an interpretive booklet by the Tlell Watershed Society. Evidence of their “wilderness interpretive route” narrative can still be found near the start of the trail. Look up at an alder tree near the Three Mile Creek bridge – you’ll spy signage explaining the creek’s role as an important area for spawning coho and steelhead salmon. I suspect there were more signs like this along the trail, but we didn’t see any on our hike. Time and the elements have likely eliminated them.

    While the trail is only 1 kilometre in length, expect to take at least an hour to complete the full route. Three Mile Creek hasn’t seen any maintenance for nearly 2 decades – well before the decommissioning of Survey Forest Road – and it shows. Almost right out of the gate, the trail is difficult to find and follow.

    The path is mostly overgrown and significant deadfall litters the trail. The odd trail marker can still be found, and they help somewhat, but we still lost the trail for brief moments. I guess the best thing to keep in mind is that the route basically follows Three Mile Creek for its duration.

    As we hiked along the creek, we admired the old-growth Sitka Spruce and Red Cedar. We did not encounter any wildlife; however, we did spy on elk tracks and bear dung along the way.

    Why might someone wish to come into the backcountry and hike this trail? I can posit a couple of reasons: 1) To explore an important tributary to the Tlell River Watershed; and, 2) To probe deeper into the Tlall Conservancy beyond what’s available near the community of Tlell. Either way, getting here and hiking the trail are certainly adventures in their own right!

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 2km (return)
    TIME: Approximately 2 hours, depending on skill level
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Ocean Views on the Government Docks

    Ocean Views on the Government Docks

    GOVERNMENT DOCKS FEATURES:
    Family-friendly
    Views of Masset & Skidegate Inlets
    Urban hike

    ABOUT

    It might seem silly to write about the three Haida Gwaii Government Docks as trails – and believe me, I do feel kind of silly – but they are identified as “trails” in the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy document (2011). I suspect this was probably done for funding purposes and to inflate the number of trails on the archipelago, though I’m not sure why one would need to do that. Even if we went for a very loose definition of what constitutes a “trail,” I somehow doubt these would make the cut; after all, they are, as their name explicitly states, docks.

    But let’s ignore that for a moment. Let’s presuppose that these three docks don’t just serve a specific function (as a place for boats to moor). Instead, let’s treat them as trails – a marked or established path to be followed.

    • The entrance to the Masset Docks
    • The side of the docks
    • Masset docks

    Masset Government Dock

    Located at the end of Collison Avenue, just off Delkatla Street, the Masset Government Dock is the shortest of the three, at least as far as the “main finger” goes, clocking in at approximately 100 meters long. From here, you can get nice views of both Delkatla and Massett Inlets; watch the busy harbour activity below; and, if you’re lucky, spy a few ducks swimming along the harbour docks.

    The main Government Dock is wheelchair accessible; however, I would suggest that the boat moorage areas are not quite as friendly. Of note, this dock does feature a lovely “Little Library.” Interestingly, just down the road from the Masset Government Dock is the Village of Masset Wharf.

    Located at the end of Main Street, this wharf is just under 200 meters in length and provides nice views of Massett Inlet. In addition, there is a small path at the head of the wharf which provides beach access. Be warned that the wharf is very slippery in some sections.

    Port Clements Government Dock

    Located along Bayview Drive, the Port Clements Government Dock is approximately 200 meters in length; provides nice views of Massett Inlet; is wheelchair accessible; and, features a couple of benches at its end. One thing I liked about this dock is the creative birdhouse tree located just off to its right.

    The views you can get from this dock on a clear day are nice, but the endless activity of our feathered friends in the birdhouse tree can keep one occupied for a long time! Also, this dock is nicely lit up with Christmas lights during the holiday season!

    Queen Charlotte Government Dock

    This “trail” technically begins at the Queen Charlotte Visitors Centre, takes you through Spirit Square, and then along Wharf Street onto the dock, which affords you nice views of the adjacent harbour and inlet. As the Port Clements dock it is approximately 200 meters in length. Part of this “trail” may be a bit confusing because the Queen Charlotte Seawalk also starts at the Visitor Centre; however, the Seawalk moves in the opposite direction of the Government Dock.

    All in all, the three Government Docks provide for a fairly uniform, if not unremarkable, experience. Despite being categorized as trails you will not find any trailhead markers indicating as such, which hardly surprising given their function and purpose. Still, if you’re looking for a quick and easy walk-in Queen Charlotte, Port Clements, or Masset, these docks may suffice. What they may lack in excitement, they kind of makeup for with the scenery surrounding them.

    Of course, if you want actual trails Haida Gwaii has plenty of those, too!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    LENGTH: Each approximately 200 meters or less
    TRAIL TYPE: Out and Back

  • Hidden Beach Paradise – Secret Cove Trail

    Hidden Beach Paradise – Secret Cove Trail

    • Secret Cove Trail beach
      The Secret Cove trail ends on this lovely beach that is worth a picnic! (Jul 2021)
    • The vast beach is ideal for mindful skinny dipping (Jul 2021)
    • The lush forest spills into a beach clearing (Jul 2021)
    • A bit of water systems and puddles greet you along the trail (Jul 2021)
    • The forest parts can be scenic with mossy trees and root systems (Jul 2021)
    • Secret Cove Trail bridge
      The bridge that takes you to the trail (Jul 2021)

    SECRET COVE TRAIL FEATURES
    Remote cove
    Nudist-friendly
    Kunxalas Conservancy

    ABOUT

    The Secret Cove Trail is located within the Kunxalas Heritage Site along the northeast coast of Moresby Island. To access this remote trail, you must drive approximately 25km southeast of Sandspit along the Copper Bay Mainline, Spur 20 Road, and, finally, Gray Bay Road.

    The signed trailhead for Secret Cove comes about 1km before the Gray Bay Recreation Site. Once you park your vehicle, it’s a brief 600-meter hike (one way) to the aptly named Secret Cove.

    The trail is decently maintained and features a marker designed by the late Ben Davidson. These beautiful yellow, black and white markers serve a multitude of purposes: 1) They help to keep you on the right trail (an informal trail shoots off Secret Cove and heads toward Dogfish Bay); 2) They reflect Haida heritage and culture; and, 3) They reinforce, within us, important values that help contextualize the space we’re exploring.

    We should note, too, that you’ll see these trail markers on other important routes around Haida Gwaii, including Louise Dover Trail, White Creek, Cape Fife, and Pesuta/East Beach.

    Secret Cove Trail is relatively flat and an easy hike. After making your way through lush ferns, alders, and beautiful spruce trees, you’ll come upon the trail’s namesake cove. Once here, take a dip in the Pacific Ocean; however, we do advise you to keep your clothes on!

    When our party hiked this route, we did come upon a couple of nudists and their dogs. I think we spoiled their fun because they left as soon as they saw us! Party poopers!

    Of course, if swimming nude isn’t your thing, you can explore the rocky coastline at low tide and marvel at the smooth rocks and walls polished by intense wave action. It’s not unusual to come across large beds of blue mussels hugging the boulders in this area.

    I think, by itself, Secret Cove is not worth the long drive and journey. Instead, I would pair it with a larger exploration of the Kunxalas Heritage Site. By doing so, you can camp at Gray Bay, enjoy the sandy beach, go kayaking and learn even more about the unique and rich history of this place and space.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.2km (return)
    TIME: 30 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None