The mossy forest and trees makes it a relaxing hike in White Creek Trail
Bog parts of the White Creek Trail
Harelda Lakes after the White Creek Trail
Bogs in bird’s eye view
WHITE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES Bog environment Settler remnants
ABOUT
Situated within Naikoon Provincial Park, White Creek Trail is a relatively flat 3.5-kilometre out-and-back trail. The trail, which is an early 20th-century settler wagon road, begins on the west side of White Creek, near the bridge. You’ll see a small sign – the trailhead marker – indicating that the route is not maintained.
Despite this, it’s clear the trail is “user maintained” because it was clear and easy to navigate for the duration of our hike. The first kilometre of the hike takes you through a beautiful second-growth forest, carpeted with thick green moss, along an unmistakable wagon road.
As you walk this section it’s not difficult to imagine the old settlers, in their horse and buggy, trudging along to their homesteads. In the current day, besides the obvious road, the hand-dug ditches and corduroy bridges are all that remain of this pioneering era along White Creek.
After about 30 minutes or so, you’ll emerge from the brush into what Go Haida Gwaii has described as “Haida Gwaii’s Serengeti.” The unique bog ecosystem – with its small ponds, grassland, and twisted and stunted pines – is certainly reminiscent of the African Savannah! As you hike this section of the White Creek Trail, you’ll notice several small side trails, all of which provide access to the bog.
We’d recommend taking your time here to explore but do tread gently. Depending on the time of year you visit, it’s possible to observe Shooting Stars, Labrador Tea, Sundews, and a host of other plants endemic to this environment. Who knows, you might even hear the frat boy-like calls of male grouse in the distance!
The bog section of White Creek Trail runs for about 2.5 kilometres before you come upon the “trail ends” signage. If you’re wearing good boots, it is possible to cross Kliki Damen Creek and continue some 19 kilometres, past the Harelda Lakes, all the way to East Beach along what eventually becomes the Carr-Whittle Trail. If you do this, though, please note that the route is not marked or maintained.
While there are other trails on Haida Gwaii offering access to bog environments (Nadu Homestead and Regier Lake, for example), White Creek is the most popular and, we’d suggest, photogenic.
If you visit, take your time here. The mystical and magical effect of forest and bog still occupies and entices the mind!
While there are a number of nice waterfalls on Haida Gwaii, most are either extremely remote and/or require a bit of effort to get to – some are some exceptions like the 5-Mile Marker Waterfall Trail. Then there are a select few that are relatively easy to access – even with a standard vehicle.
To access this small waterfall, simply drive approximately five kilometres along the QC Mainline. As you approach the “5 Mile Marker,” you should see the cascade to your RIGHT just off the side of the road. Once here, you can admire it from the safety of your vehicle or pull off the road as much as possible and then walk down to the waterfall.
If the road maintenance is decent, any SUV or standard car can be able to drive the stretch without no issues. Since it is a logging road, caution is always good on days logging trucks are actively using the QC Mainline roads.
Someone has marked the small creek with tape – no doubt to signify this lovely attraction! Once we’d meandered down to the base of these minor falls, we couldn’t help but be drawn into it – raw and beautiful nature at its best. We stood and admired the falls for several minutes; the rushing water relaxing against the pitter-patter of falling rain.
We should end this entry by offering a couple of important notes: 1) This waterfall, like most small waterfalls on Haida Gwaii, is best viewed either during or after significant rainfall. Viewing the falls during the dry season will likely yield disappointment. 2) Always remember that you are driving on active logging roads. If you don’t have a VHF radio to call out your position, give plenty of space and use caution while driving.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: N/A TIME: However long you want 😉 TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
The corduroy walkways are still visible in most parts of the trail
The Fall walk in the North Road launches a strew of generous patches of mushrooms (Oct 2022)
The wagon road that leads to the Inside Road, Pretty John’s, and Pontoons Meadow trails
Afternoon hikes also is welcome on a dry day to see the logs walkway
This mighty tree deafall points one to the Poontons Meadow Trail
POONTOONS TRAIL FEATURES Early settler history Pontoons Meadow Foraging and hunting
ABOUT
Unlike most trails on Haida Gwaii, the Pontoons Trail actually has a signed trailhead marker. Unfortunately, the trail can still be a little tricky to find, if only because there isn’t much-published information available.
If you pick up the Backroad Mapbook at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre or download the app, you should have an idea of where the trailhead is. Nevertheless, we’ll endeavour to make finding this unique and epic hike a little easier to find:
Assuming you’re coming from Skidegate, drive roughly 17 kilometres along Highway 16 until you come upon the intersection of Lawn Hill Road. Turn left onto Lawn Hill Road.
Drive down Lawn Hill Road until you cross Lawn Creek Bridge. From here, and directly ahead, you’ll see a joke sign: “Violators will be prostituted.” This rather humorous sign indicates a private property; however, to your LEFT you will see a small yellow sign posted on an alder tree: “OLD WAGON ROAD.” This sign essentially signifies the start of your hiking adventure, but it is not the trailhead.
If you have a truck, it is possible to drive approximately 1 kilometre up this old road but, if you don’t, then we strongly recommend hiking it. There is some minor incline and fairly deep potholes along the way.
After you’ve walked or driven the 1 kilometre, you will see some blue and pink flagging tape to your RIGHT and a small footbridge. Cross this bridge onto a wide, but not the too obvious path. You should see the trailhead marker for the “Pontoons Wilderness and Historic Interpretive Route” straight ahead (and the trailhead marker for the Prettyjohn’s Trail route to your left).
From the trailhead sign, continue walking north. You are now en route to the Pontoons! It’s little wonder most people have difficulty finding this route or are completely ignorant as to its existence. In the current day, the trailhead isn’t exactly easy to find unless you already know where it is.
Difficulty in locating the trail aside, what makes this route a “must do” when visiting Haida Gwaii? In brief, you’ll want to hike this wild and remote route because it’s an immersive experience.
The full Pontoons trail is approximately 9 kilometres one way. Along the route, you get to experience settler and natural history; Haida culture; envelop yourself in outstanding examples of old-growth Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Red Cedar, and Riparian forest; and, of course, explore the unique fen and marsh complex that makes up the Pontoons.
Because the Pontoons hike is so rich, we will divide it into three manageable “chunks.” Two of the three “chunks” can be completed individually, as separate hikes in their own right: 1) The North Road; 2) Durant Homestead; and, 3) The Pontoons Meadow.
The North Road Trail
Walking the North Road Trail on foggy days makes it a magical and must-repeat experience (Oct 2022)
Once you reach the Pontoons trailhead marker noted above, you’ll officially be on the North Road which, as the name suggests, basically runs north for about 4 kilometers before turning west (or LEFT, if you prefer that term) towards the Pontoons Meadow.
This section of the hike is an old wagon road developed in 1910 as part of a government strategy to encourage settlement in the area. The land was sold for cheap, but living here wasn’t easy.
Much of the designated farming land was originally muskeg and therefore incredibly low in nutrients. A lot of hard work went into making the land arable; however, because of the challenges faced, most settlers were gone by the early 1930s.
In the early 1900s, this route had a lot of small homestead cabins dotting the road, but most of these were abandoned by the end of the First World War. Unfortunately, not many remains of ye olde pioneering spirit today.
There is, of course, the old wagon road itself and, as you hike, you will see and cross some corduroy bridge structures. Besides that, the only other notable evidence of past settlement along this section of the Pontoons trail is the hand-dug drainage ditches, which run along large segments of the North Road.
While the North Road is pleasant to hike at any time of the year, we’ve found it to be especially magical during autumn. As you walk the moss-covered road, its surface comes to life with all sorts of unique fungi, including chanterelles and honeys. It’s a proverbial mushroom picker’s delight.
And the old road, with its towering trees and dense fog, creates an almost magical, otherworldly environment. Indeed, for us, this segment of the Pontoons is the very definition of forest therapy.
After hiking approximately 3 kilometres, you will come upon an active logging road. It is called “Lawn Hill Road North” and is fairly recent, only having been built in the last 15 years. Prior to its construction, the North Road travelled uninterrupted for just over 4 kilometres. This “break” in the trail represents the second “chunk” of the route: The Durant Homestead.
The Durant Homestead
The rhododendrons in Durant Homestead framed one of the well-built cabins
After crossing the logging road, continue north for approximately 1.5 kilometres towards – you guessed it – the Durant Homestead. While part of the North Road, the Village of Daajing Giids has this segment of the old wagon road listed as a separate trail on its Visitor Centre website. Indeed, while we find this kind of odd, it is nevertheless possible to access the “Durant Homestead Trail” by itself.
Unfortunately, the Visitor Centre is wonderfully vague in this regard: “Access old corduroy road [. . .] from 6.5 k on Lawn Hill Road North.” If driving from Skidegate, drive north for approximately 22 kilometres until you see the crudely written “LAWN NORTH MAIN” sign to your left.
When you turn onto this dirt road, be aware that you’re driving on an active logging road, so take the necessary precautions. The road is in decent enough shape that an SUV could probably drive it, but you might “bottom out” on the steep incline near the beginning of the road.
After the initial hill, though, the road remains relatively flat. Drive along Lawn North for 10 minutes, or approximately 5.3 kilometres (the Village of Daajing Giids says 6.5 kilometres, but this is wrong). At this point, you should see the fancy trailhead marker for the Durant Homestead Trail: A stump with some rocks piled on top of it!
From here, the Durant Homestead is approximately 40 minutes, or 1.5 kilometres, down the North Road. While the first part of this trail is quite miry, the rest of it remains in relatively good shape.
There are some muddy sections; parts of the corduroy road are slippery and loose; and, there is some deadfall requiring you to get down on your knees but, for the most part, the trail is easy to navigate and follow.
As you amble about this route, it’s not difficult to transport oneself to an earlier time, circa 1910, when homesteaders were trying to cultivate and develop this land.
About mid-way through your hike, you’ll come upon a sign: “The Great Fire of the 1840s.” Without a bit of context, this might seem rather queer. 20 years ago, the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS) undertook a project of developing/maintain a number of trails in the Tlell Watershed area.
The purpose was essentially twofold: 1) Create awareness of, and protect and conserve the watershed; and, 2) Provide an opportunity for people to experience this unique wilderness through interpretive hiking trails. Signage like “The Great Fire” was posted at strategic points along TWS trails and was originally meant to be accompanied by a short booklet.
Unfortunately, a lack of funds resulted in nearly zero formal upkeep and a good number of these trails – especially Three Mile Creek, Monique Creek and Old Growth Alley – fell into rapid disuse. While some interpretive signage has survived, most have fallen to the elements.
If you’ve kept a keen eye throughout your hike, chances are you will have noticed a number of burnt trees – these are all a result of the “Great Fire of the 1840s.” The cause of the fire remains unknown, but it burned a massive amount of forest from the upper Tlell all the way to Masset.
You will also see evidence of this fire on other trails in the Tlell area: Prettyjohn’s, Old Growth Alley and the Anvil Trail. After walking about 40 minutes from the Durant trailhead, you’ll come upon a large fallen Sitka spruce tree. If you look beyond it, you’ll see signage for the Pontoons – this represents the third “chunk” of our hike. But more on that in a moment.
If you intend to visit the Durant Homestead, look to the immediate left of the fallen tree. You’ll spy a small wooden bridge – follow it a few minutes to the homestead.
As you can see, these structures are modern and still occasionally used by hunters today. Besides the well-constructed cabin, you’ll also see an old outhouse, garden, sauna, and what appears to be a chicken coup on site.
During spring and early summer, the rhododendron bushes are in bloom and make for an impressive site. Before you leave, be sure to sign the guestbook in the cabin!
The Pontoons Meadow
The crude wooden sign points you to the right direction of the Pontoons Trail
The Pontoons are approximately 3 kilometres, or 1.5 hours, beyond the Durant Homestead. From this point, the old wagon road becomes less evident, but still easy to follow thanks to flagging tape.
After navigating some wet/boggy areas, you will finally reach the Tlell River and Pontoons at the 8.8-kilometre mark. Welcome to the Pontoons Meadow!
The Pontoons, often referred to as the “Heart of the Tlell,” make up the majority of the Tlall Heritage Site/Conservancy. Because it is Haida Gwaii’s only interior wetland ecosystem, numerous moves have been made to protect it, including a failed attempt in the 1980s. In 1996, Survey Creek (a tributary of the Tlell River) and the Pontoons were identified by the Province as “Goal 2 Study Areas” under the Protected Areas Strategy due to their “unique” characteristics.
In 2008, the area was formally protected with the signing of the Haida Gwaii Strategic Land Use Agreement, which stated that protected areas – like the Pontoons – are to be set aside for cultural, spiritual, ecological and recreational purposes. They are also to be maintained for the education and enjoyment of future generations.
After such a lengthy and, at times, challenging hike, the views presented by the Pontoons are a breath of fresh air. Mostly flat and relatively shallow, the Pontoons Meadow is home to a unique wetland environment on Haida Gwaii: Bogs, Fens and Marshes all call this 690-hectare space home. Viewed from above, you can observe all tributaries of the Tlell – less Geikie Creek – converging at the Pontoons.
As a result, the ground is rich in nutrients, contributing to the diverse flora of the area. It is also what attracts the island’s local elk population, introduced in 1929, to the area.
Besides the beautiful natural environment, there’s also a bit of history – or folklore – attached to the Pontoons. Allegedly there was once a & quote “floating barn” on the Pontoons, built for storing hay.
As the story goes, farmers producing cattle allowed their herd to enjoy the grounds in summer; however, because the Pontoons often flood during the winter months, a “floating barn” was created so that, when the Tlell floods its banks, the barn and its cargo of precious hay would simply float up with the swelling river.
The existence of this barn hasn’t been verified, but a structure – possibly the fabled barn – can be found at about the 9.1-kilometre mark.
All in all, the Pontoons Trail is an epic hike on a number of fronts. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can choose to tackle it in one 18-kilometre round-trip swoop, or just walk segments of the route (North Road and Durant).
No matter what you decide, you’ll enjoy old growth and second growth forest; settler history in the form of the wagon road and its associated structures; gain an appreciation of Haida cultural values; and, of course, totally immerse yourself in the beating heart of the Tlell River.
The old rotting dock on the beach part of the Evans Homestead Trail
The manually man made centennial stone breakwater
One of the lovely 100+ year old Rhododendron trees
This is one of the remaining walls of the homestead cabin
Evans Homestead Trail Features Settler history and structures 100+-year-old Rhododendrons Access to Kamdis Conservancy
ABOUT
Located within the 2,722-hectare Kamdis Heritage Site/Conservancy, the “Evans Homestead” Trail was first brought to our attention via a series of old photos taken in 1957 by Terry Annis, and posted by Go Haida Gwaii.
The ruins of the homestead, and the promise of massive rhododendrons, were most enticing. Unfortunately, directions towards this unmarked and unmaintained route are sparse.
Nevertheless, while the trail lacks formal upkeep and trail markers, it is still easy to locate and follow with a bit of effort. How do I get to the trailhead? You will find the Evans Homestead trailhead approximately 19 kilometres north of Port Clements, at the end of Nadu Road. Once you arrive at the terminus of Nadu Road, park your vehicle.
You will see two roads side-by-side. The one on the right, which looks to be built on large segments of clay, is used by the Mennonites and is private. You want the overgrown road beside it. This old skid road, once used for logging, represents the official start and trailhead of the “Evans Homestead” hike.
Follow the old skid road for approximately 1 kilometre. After hiking for about 15 minutes, you’ll have to use a natural log bridge to cross the Nadu River on your LEFT. It is important to keep a watchful eye for the crossing because the trail actually continues on past it to the mouth of Nadu River and Masset Inlet. On the plus side, if you do miss the turn-off and hike to the river’s mouth (as we did), you’ll be treated to a unique-looking old-growth cedar tree!
After crossing the log bridge, follow the trail out towards Masset Inlet. It’s clear someone uses this area as an access point because, when we hiked the route, a small table was set up near a skiff. Perhaps the boat is used to access nearby Kumdis Island?
Anyway, it’s at this point you’ll observe the first major piece of colonial history: An old rotting dock which, because of the moss and small trees growing on it, has become quite photogenic. At one point, from this dock, you could walk approximately 1.6 kilometres up an old road towards the remains of a peat moss plant (opened in 1967, after Bering Industries spent $1 million building it, it closed barely a year later).
Unfortunately, when we visited in June 2021, this part of the trail was marked as “closed” – probably due to the extreme overgrowth and lack of upkeep.
From the old dock, walk south along the beach and shoreline for 20 minutes and you’ll eventually come upon the ancient stone breakwater. After 110+ years, only a tiny portion has collapsed, speaking volumes as to the skill, care and craftsmanship that went into building structures at this site.
Finding the actual homestead site proved to be a little tricky, though. We knew the short trail up to the Evans Homestead was near the breakwater, but couldn’t pinpoint where exactly. We ambled around the breakwater for a good hour and a half pondering our next steps.
One of our team members eventually decided to explore the hillside behind the breakwater. He returned after 15 minutes and reported that it was “nice and flat” up there but “just turned into a big swamp.”
His wife made her way up the steep and muddy embankment and discovered: The “big swamp” was what we were looking for! Thus, we scrambled up the muddy embankment!
As it turns out, the flat, slightly swampy area is the Evans Homestead: Here you will observe 100+-year-old rhododendron trees and remnants of the homestead originally built in 1911 by Edward Evans. From a historical perspective, the site is a real treat to visit and gives you a small taste of what early pioneering life must’ve been like.
While not many remain, the effort left behind impressive stonemasonry and beautiful rhododendrons. If you’d like to see the rhododendron trees in bloom, we’d recommend visiting this area in June or July.
Note: The beach section of this hike MUST be completed on a low or receding tide, so be sure to check the tide tables if you wish to reach the homestead.
The bog area is a bit challenging on foot – some areas are quite deep!
The old wagon road to Nadu Homestead Trail boasts of man-made trench on the sides
The cordoroy board walk can still be visible in some parts
The Nadu bridge that takes you on the other side
NADU HOMESTEAD TRAIL FEATURES Bog environment Settler remnants Harvesting
ABOUT
We first became aware of the Nadu Homestead Trail thanks to “Backroad Mapbooks” (physical maps available at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre). Really, if BRMB didn’t indicate the location of trails on Haida Gwaii we’d probably miss most of them because a good number don’t have any official signed trailheads. Of course, even with the guide, some trails can be a bit tricky to locate.
The trail is a case in point. When we learned of this route, I recall thinking, “huh? We’ve driven by Nadu Road and don’t recall seeing a trail just off the highway!”
The Nadu Homestead Trail – an old settler wagon road – is located approximately 20 kilometres east of Port Clements, heading towards Masset. Once you see the intersection for Nadu Road, you’ll know you’re in the right place – the trail is direct across the highway.
Unfortunately, there’s no real parking available; so, if you wish to hike the trail, we’d recommend parking on the side of Nadu Road and then walking across Highway 16 to the trail. There is no formal trailhead marker, but you should be able to see the trail partially obstructed by thick salal.
Once you push your way through the thick salal bushes, the trail opens up into a visible wagon road. From here on out, the trail stretches just over 2 kilometres one-way and takes you through a unique bog environment and some old-growth corridors. Navigating the bog can be a bit delicate and very wet, so make sure you have waterproof footwear and be mindful of where you tread so as not to disturb the flora endemic to the area.
As we hiked the route, it became readily apparent that the trail is scarcely used anymore. There’s little in the way of markers along the trail; however, this shouldn’t dissuade potential hikers. The route is literally a straight line, so it’s difficult to get lost. Just make sure you don’t stray from the trail because parts are extremely overgrown and one could get easily disoriented.
The Nadu Homestead Trail essentially comes to an end at an old dilapidated bridge. While it is possible to cross using some creative techniques, we don’t feel it’s worth the effort (and risk) because the route ends a few minutes later, anyway, at what was likely the Hendersen homestead.
Why would one wish to hike this trail? Well, there’s the historical aspect: it’s an old settler wagon road, built circa 1910, to access parcels of land further inland. As such, you can see remnants of this early effort to “develop” Haida Gwaii: The clear evidence of the wagon road itself; the hand-dug ditches along the wagon road; old corduroy bridges (especially at the bog); and, vestiges of settler homesteads.
Indeed, it’s not difficult to use one’s imagination and transport yourself back to the early 20th century and picture ye olde horse and buggy ambling about these old roads!
Beyond history, the Nadu Homestead Trail also offers an opportunity to explore and experience unique flora: Labrador Tea, Cow Berry, bog rosemary, cloudberry, and fairly slippers, amongst a whole host of others, call this area home.
Pretty John’s Trail boast of pristine forest parts
The “Old Wagon Road” trail head
One of the many cordoroy bridges in the muddy parts of the trail
The Great Fire of the 1840s
Some parts have endless moss covering the both sides of the path
The Pretty John’s Meadow which is pointed as the main camping ground by hidden signage
Near the beginnings of Tlell River that leads to the Tlell Falls
PRETTY JOHN’S TRAIL FEATURES Early Settler history The Great Fire of 1940s Tlell Falls
ABOUT
Like many trails on Haida Gwaii, it can be challenging to locate Prettyjohn’s trailhead thanks to the nebulous and sparse literature out there. We shall endeavour to make finding this special trail a little easier:
If travelling north from Skidegate, drive roughly 17 kilometres along Highway 16 until you come upon the intersection to Lawn Hill Road. Turn LEFT onto Lawn Hill Road. Drive down Lawn Hill Road until you cross Lawn Creek Bridge. From here, and directly ahead, you’ll see a rather humorous sign: “Violators will be prostituted.”
This sign indicates private property; however, to your LEFT you’ll see a small yellow signposted to an alder tree: “OLD WAGON ROAD.” This sign signifies the start of your hiking adventure, but it is not the trailhead. Park your vehicle on the side of the road and prepare for your hike!
Begin hiking up this road. At about the 1-kilometre mark, you should see some pink and blue flagging tape to your RIGHT and a small footbridge. This is the start of the North Road and “Pontoons Wilderness Historic Interpretive Route.” If you cross the bridge and walk a few meters, you should also see a trailhead marker for Prettyjohn’s interpretive route to your LEFT.
While this side road is technically the start of the Prettyjohn’s hike, it has fallen into disuse over the last 20 years. Now, the standard practice is to IGNORE the aforementioned pink and blue flagging tape and CONTINUE walking west an additional 500 meters past some dilapidated Vehicles.
After hiking 1.5 kilometres, you will come upon another small footbridge. Cross the bridge and walk up a small hill. You will come upon an intersection in the settler wagon road. While it may be tempting to go left, you’ll actually want to go RIGHT (note the well-worn ATV tracks).
You are now on the Inside Road and on your way to Prettyjohn’s Meadow and the Tlell Falls! Follow the blue arrows for approximately 7.4 kilometres to reach the historic meadow.
“But,” you may be wondering, “why Prettyjohn’s?” Indeed, the name is kind of baffling, but the route is named after William Prettyjohn, one of the first British settlers to build in the area circa 1910.
According to the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS), he was a short, bowlegged man who wore thick glasses. Nevertheless, he exemplified the optimism of early pioneers, working his land on the banks of the upper Tlell River and producing many crops of delicious fresh fruits and vegetables.
He is purported to have walked the 12 miles from his homestead to Skidegate and Daajing Giids to sell his wares and then walk all the way back home almost daily. He was one of the last pioneers to depart the area, leaving in the early 1930s.
Today, the only evidence remaining of Prettyjohn’s homestead is the meadow, which is now promoted as an ideal remote camping spot – a special place to spend the night!
We should note, as an important aside, that there’s some debate about the name “Prettyjohn.” Some, like the Over the Hill Hikers Group and locals in Tlell, have suggested “Prettyjohn” is a misspelling of “Pettyjohn.”
We wouldn’t be surprised if this were the case – it’s happened before with the Pesuta Shipwreck trail. Regardless, it would appear “Prettyjohn” is the name that’s won out since it is recorded as such by the Tlell Watershed Society and Haida Nation. What do you think? 😉
As you hike the old settler road, you will come across signage like “The Inside Road,” “The Great Fire of the 1840s” and “Settlers in the Lawn Hill Area,” amongst a few others. These signs are remnants of the Tlell Watershed Society’s interpretive trails project of the early 2000s.
Back then, the TWS sought to maintain or develop important routes within the Tlell watershed and bring awareness to this rich and diverse ecosystem. One way to do that, they thought, was through wilderness interpretive hikes, of which Prettyjohn’s is one.
Signage was placed at strategic points along the trail and was to be accompanied by short booklets – which were available at Visitor Centres across the Island – to provide an explanation. Unfortunately, a lack of funding prevented regular upkeep and most of the trails fell into disuse.
The first part of this wilderness hike takes you along the Inside Road. This old road was constructed at the beginning of the 20th century by settlers hoping to develop farmland for crops away from the coast.
In order to make access to inland portions of the Tlell easier, they created this loop road: One end begins at Lawn Hill and the other near Miller Creek. The full Inside Road is approximately 15 kilometres in length, but the Prettyjohn’s route only takes you through the first 5 kilometres or so near Lawn Hill.
Today, when you hike the Inside Road/Prettyjohn’s route, not much of the pioneering history remains other than the wagon road, some ditching, corduroy bridges and a few fence posts. Still, the road remains in relatively good shape because it is still used by the hiking community and hunters (with the latter’s ATV tracks being very evident). It’s not difficult to imagine William Prettyjohn walking these roads to sell his fruits and vegetables.
As you make your way ever closer to Prettyjohn’s Meadow, you’ll likely notice many burned and charred trees along the way. These are the result of the “Great Fire” of the 1840s, which burned most of the upper Tlell all the way to Masset.
The cause of this fire is still hotly debated, but its effects can still be seen today, some 180 years after the fact. Indeed, the fire helps explain why the trees in this area of the Tlell are all roughly the same size – they started growing at the same time!
Approximately 30 minutes out from the Meadow, the settler wagon road splits. Pay close attention to where you’re going and be sure to follow the blue arrows! You’ll want to turn WEST to continue along Prettyjohn’s route. If you continued going SOUTH, you’d eventually make your way to Drain Lake and Miller Creek. Indeed, following the marked route on these wilderness routes is essential.
A hiker and his dog did get lost on this very trail in 2018. The ending was a happy one, but he had to spend the night in the bush!
Once you reach the meadow, take a lunch break and enjoy the quiet serenity! If you’ve still got enough energy to visit the majestic Tlell Falls, you must hike approximately 800 meters upstream from the meadow. If water levels are low enough, just follow the Tlell River and you’ll eventually come upon the Falls.
If necessary, you can also get to the Falls by hiking along some steep side hill that someone has flagged with tape. Be advised that this portion of the hike requires waterproof footwear and steady feet.
The Tlell Falls is a sight to see but, if we’re being honest, there are much nicer waterfalls on Haida Gwaii that aren’t quite as work-intensive: The Dover Falls and Blackwater Creek Falls, for example.
Overall, the Prettyjohn’s and Tlell Falls Historic Interpretive Route is a beautiful day hike. You get to observe pioneering history, second & old growth forest, and the idyllic Falls. Who knows, if you’re lucky, you might also encounter some of Haida Gwaii’s resident elk since they do like to visit this part of the Tlell.
Note: We would only recommend doing this hike during the summer months. From late September through late May, heavy rains could make some parts of this trail difficult, if not impossible to pass!
We’re speaking from personal experience here: We hiked the route once in late September – the start of the rainy season – and the trail was muddy and slippery most of the way. Once we arrived at the Meadow, it was so flooded it made any attempt at getting towards the Tlell Falls next impossible.
The still existing head trail sign of the Onward Point Trail (May 2020)
The steps that leads to the gazebo (Jan 2023)
Onward Point gazebo on a sunset (Jan 2023)
The forest greets your hike (May 2020)
Onward Point is a place to watch the fiery sunsets (Jan 2023)
ONWARD POINT TRAIL KEY FEATURES Whale-viewing Beach access Gazebo
ABOUT
Located on Moresby Island, and approximately 10 minutes from the Kwuna ferry landing, the Onward Point Trail represents a leisurely, brief hike – just over 5 minutes one-way – to a beautiful cedar gazebo.
While at the gazebo, gaze out towards Skidegate Inlet and view the mighty seagulls as they dive for food; the abundant seals as they float about and cause mischief; and the graceful eagles as they soar overhead. If you’re lucky, you may even spy a grey whale or an orca in springtime.
After spending some time admiring the flora, continue along the loop back toward your vehicle.
Indeed, the Onward Point Trail is pretty straightforward. Once you reach the trailhead, you’ll observe signage identifying the route as “moderate difficulty.”
We think this is only partly true. As you begin your hike, you’ll immediately notice that the trail splits into a Y (the loop). We recommend going counterclockwise – to the right – as it’s the easier route. There is some deadfall along the way, but the trail is relatively flat and takes you through some nice spruce, ferns and cedar trees.
If you continue along the loop, from the gazebo, the trail does increase in difficulty but only because the earth is soft in some areas. If you wish to avoid this, simply go back to the way you came.
The Onward Point Trail is a nice break from modernity and offers a serene moment for reflection, thanks to the gazebo and the presence of fairy slippers in spring. If you wish to explore the rocky beach below, there is an informal trail leading down to the beach from the gazebo; however, use caution because the rocks below are often slippery.
Please note the Onward Point Trail does connect with the “Around the Pond” trail extension. If hiking the Onward Point loop counterclockwise, you’ll see the trail to your right about a minute or two into your hike.
Tow Hill and the beginnings of Agate Beach (Jan 2023)
Tow Hill and Blow Hole trails (Apr 2022)
Blow Hole wave drama effects (Apr 2022)
The boardwalk in Tow Hill makes it a manageable accent to the cliffs (Jan 2023)
Surfer’s dream waves up North (Jan 2023)
TOW HILL & BLOW HOLE TRAIL FEATURES Haida legend Basalt rock formations Unobstructed views
ABOUT
Probably the most quintessential and well-known of Naikoon Provincial Park’s attractions, the Tow Hill and Blow Hole Trails hiking routes are easy and family-friendly, thanks to boardwalks that go their entire length. At the trailhead, which is approximately 26 kilometres east of Masset, you’ll be greeted by two small Haida totems, both of whom sit on either side of a large infographic. This interpretive panel helps set the context for the hike you’re about to embark on.
It enunciates important cultural, historic and environmental information. Notably, and keeping in line with the “accessible” theme, the information board includes colour contrasts and braille. The images can also be “read” with your fingertips.
From the trailhead, hike a little over 200 meters along the wide, hard-packed dirt path. Along the way, you’ll come upon another important feature: A four-track solar-panelled talking sign: Hear a traditional Haida welcome, a Haida song, and the legend of the “Big Spider.”
Indeed, this network of trails – perhaps more than any other on Haida Gwaii – does much to entrench you in this space and this place; that is, Haida territory.
Once you hit the beautifully constructed boardwalk – a partnership between Parks and Old Massett Village Council – you have two options: A hike up to the Tow Hill viewing area (just over 900 meters) or a hike towards the beach and blow hole (just over 700 meters). Each trail, from this point, takes approximately 30 minutes and 15 minutes, respectively.
Tow Hill Trail
Steeped in Haida lore, Tow Hill, or Taaw Tldáaw, is a magnificent volcanic plug formed from eruptions of molten lava some 2 million years ago. Jutting out of the ocean, it is, unquestionably, the most distinguishing geographic feature of Naikoon Provincial Park. Standing at nearby Agate Beach, or North Beach, it dwarfs you with its size; in fact, you can even see it off in the distance while hiking White Creek or enjoying the epic Tl’ellan to Old Massett beach route. Because of its prominence in literature and advertising, Taaw Tldáaw is an iconic image and is synonymous with Haida Gwaii.
Besides its awe-inspiring natural beauty, and deep connection to Haida lore, Taaw Tldáaw and the surrounding area also make for some of Haida Gwaii’s best hiking. Once you reach the boardwalk, go LEFT to continue hiking toward Tow Hill’s zenith.
As noted, the hike is easy, but the incline does increase the higher you go. Along the way, you’ll cross over some minor boggy sections and luxuriantly green moss-covered trees. Take your time to fully appreciate the natural and supernatural beauty of Haida Gwaii as it surrounds and enchants you with its lush rainforest, light mist and heavy cultural traditions.
At about the mid-way point, you come upon the first viewing platform. From here, you can look out onto North Beach, towards Rose Spit – another place steeped in Haida tradition. Once you reach the summit of Taaw Tldáaw, take a moment to breathe in the fresh sea air. From your perch, some 125 meters high, you can see Agate Beach below; the expanses of Naikoon Provincial Park; Dixon Entrance; and, on a clear day, even the shores of Alaska.
Be warned, though, that it is generally quite windy at the top of Tow Hill – something clearly in evidence by the wind-swept trees just outside the viewing platform! Once you’ve had your fill, descend the trail until you come upon a connector to the Blow Hole.
Blow Hole Trail
For our purposes, let’s assume you’re starting your hike from the Tow Hill/Blow Hole trailhead. Again, walk about 200 meters alongside the Hiellen River to the boardwalk. This time, go RIGHT towards the Blowhole. The hike is short – about 15 minutes – and provides some nice ground-level views of the Hiellen River, Christian White’s monumental pole, and North Beach. Lush mosses and a fairly dense forest greets you opposite Oceanside.
Once you reach the end of the short Blow Hole Trail, you’ll find detailed information boards on the origins of “Tow” and how he separated from his brother “Towustain.” The Haida history we’re privy to at this site – combined with nearby Rose Spit and Hiellen – enriches the overall experience and improves our appreciation of this mystical place. In this regard, Tow Hill and the surrounding area are a definite “must-visit” on Haida Gwaii.
Descending the stairs from the boardwalk, you’re treated to a magical space: A coastline covered in lava rock formations, imposing rock cliffs and intense wave action, battering the shoreline. On a rising tide, you will see the “blow hole” in action – a truly special sight! A word of caution: We advise that you steer clear of the rock’s edge on stormy days. The waves are larger and stronger and it is not uncommon for the odd rogue wave to hit this area.
The Wiggins Road Trail takes you along the Tlell River banks with scenic forest views
The moss covered trees along the river makes it so relaxing (Jan 2021)
The mossy banks of the Tllel River makes it an interesting hike (Jan 2021)
The “official” head trail (May 2021)
Wiggins Road Trail Features Popular fishing access Access to Tlall Conservancy
A note of caution: One should avoid hiking this trail after heavy rainfall. Sometimes the banks of the Tlell River will overflow, flooding sections of the trail and making them virtually impassable.
ABOUT
The Wiggins Road trail is an unmaintained 1.5km out-and-back route that follows the Tlell River south along the river’s bank. While the trail is unmarked, it’s still relatively easy to follow until you begin entering the Tlall Conservancy area. At this point, the rough trail gets harder to make out and, at times, feels more like a trudge through the forest. Still, the hike has its rewards: At numerous points throughout, one can marvel at the Sitka spruce before them, the lush mosses, and the mighty Tlell.
While the trail can be used for a recreational hike, its primary purpose is to provide access to the Tlell River for steelhead fishing. It is not uncommon to see locals along the banks reeling in their catch in late Summer or early Fall. Further to this, the trail does provide numerous side paths to the river for fishing purposes.
From a hiking perspective, Wiggins Road trail can be classified as an easy to moderate hike, depending upon one’s fitness level. Much of the trail is flat, though there are some significant areas of mud, roots and deadfall. In addition, the Wiggins Road trail does provide an opportunity for a much grander adventure:
If you do hike the 1.5km (one-way) from the trailhead, you will eventually connect to the far more popular Anvil Trail, which is a 5km loop trail that takes you on a beautiful Wilderness Interpretive hike.
It should be noted that the Wiggins Road trail does fall on privately held land for much of its length, so those visiting should be respectful of posted signage.
To access this trail, turn onto Wiggins Rd and simply follow the road to its terminus point – a cul-de-sac.
Here you will spy the unmarked trailhead, which leads you down to the Tlell River. NOTE: As you walk down the slight incline at the trailhead, you will see a log fence to your left. You will have to crawl through the fence opening to access the rest of the trail – don’t let this dissuade you!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (return) TIME: Approximately 1 hour TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
St. Mary’s Spring wood carving greets you at the trail head
The very green moss covered escarpments are quite the sights!
Up is the way to go on this trail
The trees can tell you how high you are at
At sunset
A closer look at St. Mary
St. Mary’s Spring Trail Features The fresh water spring Escarpment trail
ABOUT
Unlike most places on Haida Gwaii, St. Mary’s Spring Trail is quite young in terms of its history. At the beginning of the 20th century, this area was known as “Duncan’s Well,” named after an early homesteader.
It is said that travellers used to stop and re-hydrate their horses at the small well. Beginning in the early 1920s, however, Annie Richardson took it upon herself to name the spring after one she’d known in England – St. Mary’s. The wooden carving that is most associated with this spot was carved a few decades later.
Time has not been kind to Haida Gwaii’s wooden saint. Now, when you visit St. Mary along Highway 16, she looks a bit tired and weathered. Her cloak is starting to decay and both arms have rotted away.
It’s only time before old St. Mary is returned to the earth from which she sprang. It’s sad but, in a way, is reflective of Haida Gwaii: When poles are carved, or houses made, they’re fresh and vibrant.
They give life; however, with the passage of time they, too, grow tired and eventually return to Mother Earth. Such a cycle is actually pretty beautiful if you think about it.
Despite having seen better days, St. Mary’s Spring is still quite attractive. People will visit, lay gifts at Madonna’s feet and drink from the freshwater well nearby. Signage beside St. Mary suggests that those who “Drink of these waters [. . .] will always return to the islands.” It’s a pleasant contemporary legend, though we would note that it’s “drink at your own risk” because the water is untreated and there’s a written notice stating as such.
You will also notice a trail to the left of St. Mary. This is the “St. Mary Spring escarpment trail,” so it is fairly steep (with an elevation gain of approximately 40 meters at its zenith), and goes towards Lawn Hill. The trail markers are scant and poorly done, but the trail itself is easy to follow. As you climb the escarpment, you will encounter dense forest, thick mosses (home to fairy slippers in Spring), ferns and plenty of deadfalls.
The trail is single-track and narrow. Parts of it are perilously close to the edge and one misstep could result in significant injury. An old blog write-up indicated nice views of Hecate Straight could be had from the trail but, while that might’ve been true at one time, it’s not the case any longer.
Of course, the trail is not the primary attraction; it is the wooden carving. If you visit, we’d suggest posing for a photo beside St. Mary and then admiring the black basalt rock formations across the road.
They hint at some old geologic activity! And, hey, you can also get some nice views of Hecate Strait 😉
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