South view – the larn on the bowl of Mt. Raymond with the view of the Mt. Slatechuck peak
Ace the good boy hiking the slopes!
Gnarly roots on narrow slope sections heading up
Sleeping Beauty Trail Features Fantastic viewpoints Challenging slope sections
ABOUT
The “Sleeping Beauty Trail” is one of Haida Gwaii’s most famous hikes, perhaps only next to the Tow Hill/Blowhole and Golden Spruce trails. With its varied terrain and expansive views, “Sleeping Beauty” should be on every visitor’s bucket list if they’re looking for a challenging yet rewarding hike. Unfortunately, though, this trail can be a little confusing – at least insofar as finding it. How come? In brief, there is no trail on Haida Gwaii called “Sleeping Beauty.” The name “Sleeping Beauty” actually refers to Mount Slatechuck and Mount Raymond – known collectively as the “Sleeping Beauty Trails” because, when viewed from the Village of Daajing Giids, the mountains resemble a woman’s face when laying in repose. What trail, then, are people referring to when they say they’re going to hike Sleeping Beauty?
Generally, the hike most people are referring to is the Tarundl Trail, which brings you to the summit of Mount Raymond. Of course, if you didn’t know this then locating “Sleeping Beauty” could prove somewhat challenging. And that confusion is merited because the signage for “Sleeping Beauty” can be confusing. We will try our best to reduce this befuddlement.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
To locate the Tarundl Trail / Sleeping Beauty trailhead, follow these steps:
Drive west through the Village of Daajing Giids along Oceanview Drive until you come upon the intersection to the village cemetery and Haydn Turner campground.
Turn RIGHT onto the Honna Forest Service Road. Continue driving west for approximately 3.8 kilometers and turn RIGHT 400 meters past the Kagan Bay Recreation Site (you should see a “Sleeping Beauty” sign at this point).
Drive north for approximately 1.3 kilometers. You should see another “Sleeping Beauty” marker to your LEFT, leading you up a fairly rough and narrow road. Culvert upgrades were completed in early August 2024. A high clearance vehicle is recommended, but standard size vehicles could make it if driving with caution.
Drive about 3.5 kilometers. You will pass the first “Sleeping Beauty Trails” sign (leads to the Slatechuck Mountain trailhead). Drive just over a kilometer further and you will arrive at a small pullout. You should see the “Sleeping Beauty Trails” marker here. Welcome to the Tarundl Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
The Tarundl Trail hike begins easy enough as you cross a small footbridge over Tarundl Creek. The path is grassy, flat and a little muddy. After trekking approximately 100 meters, you will come upon the “Tarundl Tr” marker, which points into a dense and fairly young forest. At this point, the Tarundl wastes no time in gaining elevation – onward and upward!
The climb up is straightforward and exceptionally well-marked with yellow circles and reflective orange squares. You begin by navigating some tree roots before coming upon a series of high steps. In many instances, the dense trees along this section of the trail serve as useful handgrips. After about twenty minutes, you’ll come upon a rough ladder designed to help you up a small, steep section of the trail. From here, the trail continues to climb along a well-worn, albeit muddy, path. Be prepared for a few rope sections and minor blowdown along the way.
We took a hydration and snack break just past the mid-way point, alongside some beautiful old growth cedar trees. Continuing on, the climb up was relentless, but gradual. As you begin entering the alpine, the forest starts thinning out and the trees become more gnarled and stunted. Peering through the trees, you also begin to get nice views of Bearskin Bay and Slatechuck Mountain. Once in the “final stretch,” as you approach the verdant bowl of Mount Raymond, the trail gets a little more scrambly and harder to follow as the markers thin out. First, you must climb some narrow stone steps. After that, keep an eye out for a rope section that snakes under a fallen tree. We missed this during our ascent and ended up climbing up and over a gnarled tree – only noticing the rope on the opposite side after the fact! From here, climb up a rock face to a very narrow section of trail with only a small rope railing to guide you. Once you clear this, ascend a little further through some gnarled trees and you’ll reach the bowl. Home to the tarn known as “View Lake,” this flat area is a popular place for hikers wishing to camp under the starry night sky.
For those wishing to climb to the zenith of Mount Raymond, and the “nose” of Sleeping Beauty, you will need to trek onwards an additional 15 minutes. The path to the summit is well worn, but very steep. On a clear day, you can expect to see breathtaking views of Rennell Sound, Yakoun Lake, Stanley Lake, Daajing Giids, and much of the Queen Charlotte mountain range. Those wishing to complete a loop trail can walk along the ridge between Mount Raymond and connect to the Slatechuck Mountain trail.
While most report the descent down Mount Raymond to be quicker than the climb, it can actually be more challenging due to loose rocks, mud and the abundant tree roots. Take your time as a wipeout is certainly more likely here! Once back at the trailhead and parking lot, take a celebratory swig of water and enjoy a nice meal back in Daajing Giids!
Note: Cellular service is available for most of the hike, less at the trailhead.
DIFFICULTY: Hard TOTAL DISTANCE: 5.3 kilometers (one-way) TIME: 3 hours (one-way) TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: 644 meters
An easy beachwalk with access to the clear waters of Gregory Creek at the end
The mossy forest short trail towards Gregory Beach
Gregory Beach at eye level with its pebbly beach
Gregory Beach Features: Easy access to Gregory Creek Conehead view
NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.
ABOUT
Located within the Duu Guusd Conservancy, Gregory Beach offers a lovely sand and pebble beach for those wishing to relax and experience the dynamic environment that is Haida Gwaii’s rugged west coast. At the beach’s north end you will find Gregory Creek, which is home to spawning salmon in August and September. The small Gregory Beach campsite is located opposite the creek.
As described by Haida Hereditary Chief Gidansda, Duu Guusd “stands as a testament to the power of the earth” and “maintains all of the elements that spawned the Haida cultural heritage.” Indeed, the conservancy is huge, clocking in at 229,107 hectares in size (144,934 terrestrial and 84,173 foreshore), and stretching from the western side of Naden Harbour to Langara Island, and south to Rennell Sound. It should come as no surprise that Duu Guusd is an area rich in cultural values. 39 village sites or seasonal camps have been identified; 88 registered archaeological sites have been noted, including CMts, shell middens, habitation caves, burial sites, and blank canoes; the area is rich in unique geological formations from antiquity; and it is home to some of the most productive marine habitat on all of Haida Gwaii. The intertidal pools – prominent at the Conehead Recreational camping site – provide a beautiful and vivid example of this latter point.
To reach Gregory Beach, and others in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.
If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 13 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead signs for Five Mile Beach and Riley Creek before finally coming upon the Gregory Beach trailhead marker. There is a small pullout with enough room for two or three vehicles to park. Welcome to the Gregory Beach Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
The trail to Gregory Beach is brief at only 300 meters one-way. It should take approxim?ately 5 minutes to reach the beach. As you hike this brief path, which takes you through some nice shoreline forest, be cognizant of some muddy sections; otherwise, the single-file trail is mostly clear and an easy walk. It is also the only trail within Rennell Sound to feature the Ben Davidson Haida trail marker. Once you reach the beach, enjoy the rugged beauty of Haida Gwaii’s west coast: Surf the waves, swim in the ocean, comb the beach, or have a picnic (please pick up after yourself). As you relax in this oasis of calm, it is easy to lose all sense of time . . . and that’s okay.
The flat beach on the left and the rocky beach on the right
The clear calming sound of Riley Creek along the trail
Mossy section of the trail
Riley Creek spilling into the sea
Riley Creek Trail Features: Old Growth Trees Multiple access to Riley Creek Pristine beaches
NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.
ABOUT
Located within Rennell Sound and the Duu Guusd Conservancy, the Riley Creek Trail offers hikers a substantive walk through riparian old growth forest, which terminates at a secluded sand and pebble beach. According to Dalzell, Riley Creek was named after the engineer who “surveyed the proposed railway route to the west coast of Graham Island.” The trail is not formally maintained, so be prepared for potentially challenging conditions as a result of blowdown.
To reach the Riley Creek Trail, and other trails in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.
If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 12 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead sign for Five Mile Beach before coming upon the Riley Creek trailhead marker. There is a small pullout with enough room for two or three vehicles to park. Welcome to the Riley Creek Trail!
As you get ready for the hike, you will undoubtedly read the information contained on the trailhead sign. Please note that key information on this board is incorrect. First, while the trail is marked throughout, the Ben Davidson trail marker is not used; rather, it is a mix of flagging tape ad orange squares. Second, the stated length of the trail – 2.3km one way – is off by a significant margin. Other sources indicate the route to be 2 kilometers, 5 kilometers and 10 kilometers one-way; however, none of these are correct. The actual length of the trail, one way, is 3.44 kilometers. As such, one should ensure they’ve brought sufficient water and snacks for this trek through the forest.
HIKING THE TRAIL
The Riley Creek Trail is the only substantive hiking trail within Rennell Sound where the trail itself functions as the attraction (with the other three, the trails are secondary to the beaches). While not formally maintained, the path is obvious and generally well-marked. When we hiked the route, there were only a couple of spots – just past the mid-way point – where we had to take a moment to locate the trail thanks to blowdown.
As you hike the riparian wilderness, take time to appreciate the lush flora that surrounds you. Much of the Riley Creek route is covered in thick green moss, which gives the environment a fairy-like atmosphere. Combine this with the gentle lull of the creek and you have all the ingredients necessary for a relaxing stroll through Haida Gwaii’s rainforest.
We should note that, even during dry conditions, parts of the trail can be quite miry. There are boardwalks and stepping blocks to assist with this, but even these should be used with caution. The boardwalks are old and some have been compromised; the stepping blocks, while solid, are extremely slippery and pose their own hazard. In addition, there are numerous sections of blowdown along the way. Most of it is minor and easy to navigate, but there are at least two areas with fairly significant deadfall on the trail: About 45 minutes in, while walking along a ridge, you’ll notice a large spruce has toppled over and ripped out a large section of the trail. We briefly thought about turning around at this point, but carefully navigated around the fallen tree and returned to the trail. Then, about 40 minutes later, you’ll come upon this area with a clutter of fallen alder and spruce. It’s easy enough to duck around these, but it does make the trail a little difficult to follow – at least momentarily.
About 500 meters out from Riley Beach, the trail splits. At this point, you have the option of crossing Riley Creek and continuing along the southern side of the creek towards the beach OR staying on the north side of Riley Creek and continuing to the beach via this route. One should only cross Riley Creek when water levels are low. If you choose not to cross the creek, you will still get to the beach. After such a lengthy and somewhat challenging trek through the woods, Riley Beach provides the perfect spot for a bite to eat and re-charge before hiking back to your vehicle.
Could be a short beach walk with the mountain view
The view of Five Mile island with the Conehead in the background
The short trail has mossy trees leading to the beach
The trail head marker can be easily missed
The beach has rocky parts and pebbles dotting the beach line
Five Mile Beach Trail Features – Five Mile Island view -Conehead view
NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.
ABOUT
The Five Mile Beach Trail is located in Rennell Sound, just outside the Duu Guusd Conservancy. To reach this trail, and others in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.
If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site, which is rustic but features a boat launch, camping sites, and outhouses (no potable water). There are also beautiful views of the surrounding mountainscape. From here, drive approximately 3.7 kilometers north along the Rennell FSR. Once past the former dryland sort, you should spy the “5 Mile Beach BC Forest Recreation Trail” sign to your LEFT. A small pullout with space for two or three vehicles is immediately behind the trailhead marker. Welcome to the Five Mile Beach Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
The Five Mile Beach Trail is short and straightforward. Clocking in at just 180 meters, it should take no more than a few minutes to reach the rocky beach. The trail, while not formally maintained, is clear. Step with caution as you near the beach, however, because there are some minor tree roots to watch out for. Once at the beach, take some time to admire the rocky shore, the surrounding mountains, and the eye-catching Five Mile Island. For those wishing to camp, there is space to set up a small tent just off the trail, adjacent the beach.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 180 meters (one-way) TIME: Less than 5 minutes TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.
ABOUT
Located within Rennell Sound and the Duu Guusd Conservancy, Bonanza Beach offers perhaps the finest sandy beach on all of Haida Gwaii. At the beach’s south end you will find Bonanza Creek, which is home to spawning salmon in August and September. While remote and difficult to get to, Bonanza Beach is worth the effort and should be on everybody’s Haida Gwaii-themed bucket list.
If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound.
You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade (one of the steepest public roads in all of Canada). While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 14 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead signs for Five Mile Beach, Riley Creek and Gregory Beach before coming upon the Bonanza River Bridge. While the bridge has been closed since August 2022 “for safety issues,” locals have pushed the barricade aside to allow for vehicle access. The bridge remains structurally sound but, for those wishing to err on the side of caution, you can park your vehicle here and walk the 650 meters to the Bonanza Beach trailhead. Welcome to the Bonanza Beach Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
The trail to Bonanza Beach is brief @ only 400 meters one-way. As you hike towards the beach, you will be treated to second-growth forest, giant spruce burls, dense salal, and some beautiful old growth cedars as you approach the beach. It should take less than ten minutes for one to reach one of Haida Gwaii’s crown jewels: Bonanza Beach.
Once you emerge from the dense salal, it’s easy to see why the Daily Hive (2018), Love Exploring (2021) and MSN (2023), amongst others, have all listed Bonanza Beach as one of the top beaches in Canada. With its attractive crescent shape, Bonanza Beach is exposed to the powerful waves of the open Pacific Ocean. The relentless wave action has resulted in some of the finest sand on any beach in the world. It has also made this area attractive for surfers and beachcombers. Because Bonanza Beach is quite literally the “last stop” on the way to Japan, it is not uncommon to find unique items along Bonanza’s shore, including the much sought after glass floats from Japanese fishing vessels.
Lastly, we’d be remiss if we failed to mention the tidal pools: On very low tides, Bonanza Beach is home to many attractive tidal pools, each teaming with life, including colourful sea anemones, beach crabs, mussels, life-giving seaweed and kelp. Indeed, the tidal pools offer a stunning microcosm of Duu Guusd’s complex and rich marine environment.
Bonanza Beach is – undoubtedly – a special place. For us, it highlights some of the best to be found within Duu Guusd: A short hiking trail with second and old growth forest; Haida cultural values; pristine beaches; epic views of Conehead and the open Pacific; and bountiful marine life, including salmon, King Fishers, bald eagles and even the odd seal. Having the opportunity to relax on the beach or swim in the ocean is just the icing on the cake.
The 2009 title holder for biggest Sitka Spruce in BC
Yakuon River inviting you to fish
One of the trees in the grove dwarfing some hiking companions
Yakuon Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove Features: Yakuon River fishing spots Old growth trees
ABOUT
Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove – this grove of beautiful old growth trees is situated along the Yakoun River, near the “30 mile” marker. Together these trees give a small glimpse of what was common place in Haida Gwaii’s forests before unfettered logging practices destroyed large areas of old growth on the archipelago.
Perhaps the most famous of the old growth trees in this area is the one known as the “Bellis Spruce,” which is named after Skil Q’uas Dick Bellis. A self-described “BSer,” Mr. Bellis spent most of his working life in the forest industry as a heavy duty mechanic. He was also a notable carver. Perhaps his most well-known piece is an eagle sculpture carved in 1993 in memory of his brother, Ted. The eagle sculpture sat at Jungle Beach, next to the Black Bear, carved by Ted, until it mysteriously vanished in 2001 (the aging Black Bear vanished in 2023). Thought to be lost forever, the sculpture was found in Prince George in 2009 and returned to the Bellis family. In his later years, Dick Bellis served as a guide for tourists visiting Haida Gwaii. Along with jaunts to Rennell Sound, Bellis often took his guests to the Yakoun River to view the giant Sitka Spruce, which he’d say was “the biggest tree they’ll ever see.” And he was probably right.
Estimated to be approximately 750 years old (BC Forest Services does not have an increment bore large enough for a more accurate age), with a circumference of 45 feet and a height of just over 68 metres, the “Bellis Spruce” puts everything into perspective and highlights, in microcosm, the essence of Haida Gwaii. The giant Sitka Spruce gained significant attention in 2009 when it was officially recognized as the largest Sitka Spruce in BC – a title it held for a couple of years. Unfortunately, the “Bellis Spruce” was declared dead in 2011; however, it is still standing and leaves those lucky enough to find it in awe.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
There is no formal trailhead marker for this short trek into the Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove. If you wish to locate the Bellis Spruce and its surrounding grove of giants, you must drive approximately 30 kilometers outside of Daajing Giids along the QC Mainline logging road. At this point, the Yakoun River will be clearly visible on your RIGHT. Look for a suitable place to pull over, walk through the woods, and safely cross the Yakoun River. About a decade ago, a large log functioned as a natural “bridge,” but it has since washed away. As such, one should only try crossing the Yakoun when the river is low – typically during the late summer months.
HIKING THE TRAIL
As noted, this is not a formal trail of the Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove; however, you should see a vague path once you cross the river. It will lead you to an old de-activated road. The grove of old growth Spruce is facing the river. Take your time and explore these monumental trees. You will feel dwarfed in their presence, but this is forest therapy in the best sense of that term! Use caution as it is often difficult to see where you are stepping.
Tarundl Lookout Trail Features – Views of Bear Skin Bay -Challenging Rope Sections -View of the Tarundl Flats
ABOUT
The Tarundl Lookout Trail, located west of Daajing Giids (less than 10-minutes by car), and along the Honna Service road, you will find the Kagan Bay Day Use Recreation Site at about the 2-kilometer mark. The site features a picnic table, fire ring and beach access. At low tide, one could walk quite a distance onto the beach. Here you will also find the Tarundl Creek network of trails (see our earlier write-up here). It is also at this site where you can park your vehicle to begin a moderate-level hike towards an attractive and compelling lookout.
TRAILHEAD
Unlike the more popular Tarundl Creek loop trail, the Tarundl Lookout Trail does not have formal trailhead signage; however, it is easy enough to find:
Park your vehicle at the Kagan Bay Day Use Site.
Walk directly across the Honna Forest Service Road from the Day Use Site.
You should see some candy cane-patterned tree tape, which signifies the start of the trail.
Welcome to the Tarundl Lookout Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
While the trail is fairly short at just over 1 kilometer in length, it is a steady uphill climb the entire way. The trail begins with a gentle slope, but this gets steeper further on. The route is a little rough, but is well marked with orange tree tape the entire way. Hiking through the ferns, young hemlock, and occasional spruce, the terrain reminds us of the Jags Trail @ Spirit Lake. As you hike, use caution because the trail is also muddy and slippery in some areas.
Be prepared for six rope sections. Most of these are short, and designed to help you over minor obstacles, but the final two – just before you reach the zenith – are essential in helping you reach the viewpoint safely. Once at the top, follow the narrow trail to a couple of viewpoints of the Tarundl Flats and bays down below. Please use caution while you are here as there are no ropes in place as a safety measure. After taking in the view, return the way you came!
The trail is a good winter walk on old deactivated logging roads
This view is on the road walk back to the Hatchery building
The trail is marked well with white triangles thank to local trail hero, Remi Gauthier
Some brooks and streams on the trail
Feel lucky to find some “forest arches” along the way
Hatchery Loop Trail Features Connects to numerous trails in area Trailblazed by Remi Gauthier Old logging road
ABOUT
The Hatchery Loop Trail is another route developed by local hero and trail-builder, Remi Gauthier. The trail takes hikers along the “high road,” an old deactivated logging road, and gives the adventure-minded many options for completing the route: You can treat it as a large loop and come back hugging the highway; or, you can use the Hatchery Trail as a “connector” and branch out to other routes, including the Sachs Creek Trail, Around the Pond and Onward Point, amongst others.
We initially came upon this trail by chance in the summer of 2022. En route to an enjoyable repast at Raincoast Breads, we spied a small white marker on the side of Alliford Bay Road denoting “Fish Hatchery Trail.” We observed no safe place to park at the time given the marker was near a soft corner. It wasn’t until the end of 2023, while reading the newly updated Sandspit Community Society’s “Hikes and walks” page, that this trail starts near the Sandspit Salmon Enhancement Society’s hatchery building.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
The trailhead marker for the Hatchery Loop Trail is fairly understated and is, therefore, somewhat easy to miss if you’re not already looking for it. First, park your vehicle at the hatchery building. As per the Sandspit Community Society, “1 or 2 vehicles can park max” and “Please leave the hatchery accessible to volunteers and helpers.” Once settled, walk back out onto the main highway and trek south (LEFT) for about 80 meters. At this point, you will see an old road to your left with a white rectangle marker on a nearby alder tree. Welcome to the start of the Hatchery Loop Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
Most of the route follows a deactivated logging road; so, it’s fairly easygoing. It had snowed the night before our planned hike; as a result, much of the road was covered in a thin layer of snow and ice but this did not detract from the experience. Just a few feet in from the trailhead, you will note a series of white markers: Some pointing east and others pointing south. Going south will take you along a rough, but short trail to what we’ve called the Sandspit Waterfall. Trekking east will continue taking you along the Fish Hatchery route.
At about the 200-meter mark, you will see another directional trail marker. It points north (or LEFT) to “Jason’s Mill Rd” and south (or RIGHT) to Sachs Creek. Walking south for about a kilometre will eventually connect you to the informal Sachs Creek Trail; however, if you wish to hike the Hatchery Trail, you must trek north along “Jason’s Mill Rd,” also known as the “high road.” From this point, you follow the old road north for just over 3.5 kilometres. The hike is easy – peaceful – and takes you through a variety of forests and trees, though the primary types observed include alder and spruce trees. The hike promised “some views of Skidegate Inlet through the trees,” but we did not observe this at any point because the trees along the road, and on the forest trail, were too dense.
While the hike is pretty straightforward, we do recommend hiking this route with an app like BRMB. Once you start trekking north from the “Jason’s Mill Rd” marker, there are no further trail markers along the route until you’re about ready to re-emerge onto the highway and shoreline. The app will help you stay on the correct road – there are at least four “forks” along the trail that could potentially lead you astray (the last of these is another “connector” towards the Around the Pond/Onward Point network of trails).
According to the map available on the Sandspit Community Society webpage, there are two options for completing the loop trail: A forest hike that hugs the highway or a much easier trek along the shoreline. We chose the latter as we were unable to locate any trail markers for the forest route. In any event, as you complete the loop along the shoreline, you will spy at least two “Fish Hatchery” trail signs along the Highway – these take you through the forest, re-connecting to the old road. Regardless of which route you take, you will end up back at the fish hatchery!
Note: The Hatchery Loop Trail route is outlined on Gaia GPS. You can view the route online by activating “public trails” on the Gaia GPS website. Unfortunately, as of 2024, the “Overlays” function does not appear to include “public trails” in the app version of Gaia GPS anymore.
The big boulders and alders lined the old logging road
Sachs Creek Trail Features Fishing spots Endemic tree frog sighting
ABOUT
Located roughly 1.6 kilometers east of the Moresby ferry waiting area, and just off Highway 16, you will find the informal Sachs Creek Trail. The trail is unmarked and isn’t primarily used as a recreational hiking route; however, it is nevertheless listed in the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy and Backroad Mapbooks (the latter resource is available at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre). In the early 1980s, Sachs Creek was utilized as part of a UBC project that used tandem V-shaped gabion weirs for improving spawning habitat for pink and chum salmon. In more recent times, the creek has been used with some regularity by university students in environmental studies programs. Today Sachs Creek remains an important salmon-spawning creek.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Because the trail is unmarked, getting to the trailhead can be a little tricky. If you are using the Backroad Mapbooks app, it will tell you to “look for a road branching south off the Highway 8km before Kwuna Point Road.” Ignore this advice. The road it refers to is deactivated and so overgrown that it is unrecognizable as a road. Instead, if coming from the Kwuna ferry, drive approximately 600 meters along Highway 16. Shortly after crossing the Sachs Creek Bridge, you will see a narrow dirt road to your right. If you are driving a truck, it is possible to drive the 1.08 kilometers along this road to the unmarked Sachs Creek Trailhead; however, we recommend parking your vehicle on the wide curb and walking to the trailhead. There is no signage indicating you are on the Sachs Creek Trail. Instead, you will see an old logging road to your left and some alders and ferns to your right that lead down to Sachs Creek. The trail is characterized as a loop – albeit a rough and informal one – so it doesn’t matter which route you take.
HIKING THE TRAIL
As of 2024, the area that encompasses the Sachs Creek Trail has become an active logging zone. As such, the tree tape you see along the old road, and in the forest along the creek, is unreliable; it does not denote the hiking route. In fact, the entire Sachs Creek Trail is unmarked. Thus, while 90% of the route follows old logging roads, the remaining 10% that brings you into the forest and along the creek can be challenging to navigate if you don’t know where you’re going. It is easy to get disoriented in the forest. For that reason, we don’t recommend hiking this route unless you are using an app like BRMB, which contains an outline of the informal trail (note its rough heart shape!).
Hiking along the old roads is a little one-note. If you choose to hike this informal trail, we recommend spending most of your time trekking along Sachs Creek and enjoying the rich flora and fauna of its banks and waters. Rich in nutrients and life, the creek remains important to the area. Depending upon the time of year, you might get lucky and spy schools of salmon swimming up the creek en route to their spawning grounds. Use caution, though, as taan (black bear) frequent the area.
Note: With the area now an active logging zone, it may not be publicly accessible during working days of the week. As you walk the route, you will undoubtedly see clear evidence of the logging operations underway – many trees bear scars and it’s a sad sight to see.
The forest hides the waterfall from view when the foliage grows
A closer look of the waterfall
Moresby Waterfall Trail Feature: Along the highway access Less than five minutes hike Gorgeous waterfall
ABOUT
The Moresby Waterfall Trail first came to our attention a couple of years ago. We were given a map of Moresby-area trails and one of them identified a “waterfall” just off the side of the highway between the BC Ferries waiting area and Sandspit. Eager to explore and find this waterfall, we set out in mid-Autumn 2021.
Unfortunately, the coordinates were a little off and we just ended up trudging through the bush before calling it a day and photographing Fall foliage in Sandspit as a consolation prize. Fast-forward to the end of 2023.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Haida Gwaii had endured a series of winter storms, which took down several trees. As we drove towards Sandspit, we spied a glimpse of the waterfall from the road! Deciding the hike wouldn’t be long (nothing more than a few minutes), we pulled off to the side of the road and hiked the short trail toward what we’ve called the Moresby Waterfall.
There are no notable landmarks to help identify where the trailhead is. If you’re not already looking for it, chances are you’ll drive right on by. Please refer to the GPS coordinates below. Once you park safely off the side of the road, you should spy two alder trees behind a group of feisty ferns. One of the trees features a double white diamond marking with some yellow tape attached to the lower diamond. Welcome to the Moresby Waterfall trailhead!
HIKING THE TRAIL
Surprisingly, the short trail is denoted with white diamond-shaped markers all the way through, which leads us to believe this route was created by local trailblazer Remi. Follow the white markers the length of the trail towards the waterfall. At about the mid-way point, there is an option to cross a small creek and visit the eastern side of the waterfall; however, because we lacked proper footwear (this was an impromptu stop), we opted to stay on the western side of the creek. After walking a mere five minutes, your efforts are rewarded with a beautiful cascading waterfall – up close and personal. Just be sure to use caution when walking the path near the waterfall as it is quite slippery and muddy.
The trail, while very short, is informal and user-maintained. There is plenty of deadfall to navigate en route to the falls; however, it is nothing major. While here, take a few moments to enjoy the slight rumble of the falls and the comforting silence of the forest that surrounds you. Forest therapy 101!
Note: The waterfall may not be as prominent during extended periods of drought.
Aerial view facing towards Bear Skin Bay on the horizon
Small Lake in eye level
Some evidence of a past forest fire?
Boggy environment for exploration around the lake
Small Lake Features: Boggy explorations Old Forest Fire Remnants A most likely Elks’ destination
ABOUT
Small Lake came to our attention after perusing an early edition of Fern Henderson’s Trail Hikes and Beach Walks. We got curious about this trail because it is not mentioned in the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy (2011), nor is it mentioned in the last edition of Fern Henderson’s text (2005). Thus, we made it a point to explore this hike and see if the trail still existed since – we presumed – it probably was not being maintained.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Getting to Small Lake can be a little tricky: Drive west of Daajing Giids along the Honna Forest Service Road. Follow the Honna FSR north, past the Sleeping Beauty trail signage. The road gets fairly steep, so make sure you are driving a truck or capable SUV. A small car will not be able to complete the drive.
After driving for approximately 9.23 kilometres, or 20 minutes, you should notice a fairly obvious pullout to your RIGHT. We came upon this quite by chance. As we were driving up the narrow road, we spied what looked like an old spur road and assumed that’s where we’d have to walk to find Small Lake. We drove a few feet further and saw the pullout – that’s when we saw the unmarked trailhead! Talk about a stroke of luck!
HIKING THE TRAIL
The trail to Small Lake is unmarked, but obvious, and takes about 10 minutes to complete. It is single- track and muddy, so one should use caution. The environment is one of young Sitka Spruce, some moss, huckleberry bushes, and other flora typical of a bog environment. Once you arrive at Small Lake, the grounds are soggy (bog), but dense with Labrador Tea and sundews. In early editions of Trail Hikes and Beach Walks, Fern Henderson notes that Small Lake is “an interpretive circle walk [. . .] through virgin forest.” The brochure she mentions is long gone, but it is still possible to walk a circle around the lake.
The trail around Small Lake has been completely overgrown, but it is possible to identify the odd white trail marker on dead cedars that are still standing. At the time we did our hike, we only walked about halfway around the lake before turning around due to torrential rains. Given the size of Small Lake, we would anticipate it would take no more than 35-40 minutes to complete the circle.
At the time Fern Henderson wrote her text (1978), she noted the lake was a popular place for swimming, fishing, berry-picking and picnicking. While one can certainly still do those things, it’s probably not a beehive of activity these days; however, it is obvious that somebody still uses Small Lake as a recreational site. When we visited, there was clear evidence of a recent campfire and a small boat nearby.
Of note: Elk appear to frequent the area. As we ambled about the lake, we spied numerous elk droppings along the boggy ground.
The aerial view of Gold Creek towards the Mayer Lake
The smooth curvy placid waters of Gold Creek
Water lilies abound in summer just before reaching Mayer Lake
The initial part of the trail that shows the winding creek on the right side
Gold Creek Trail Features: Muskeg terrain and flora Winding creek Entry to Mayer Lake Homestead remnants
NOTE: Gold Creek often floods during the wet season, making the route inaccessible. We, therefore, recommend it as a summer-only hike.
ABOUT
Gold Creek Trail meanders through Muskeg, crosses the highway between Tlell and Port Clements (the old “Mexican Tom Trail”), and eventually flows into the south end of Mayer Lake via the Mayer River. The trail is informal – unmarked – and is typically begun at the Mayer Lake Day Use area; however, we decided to go against the grain and commenced our hike of this informal route at the “Gold Creek” bridge, just along Highway 16.
WHY GOLD CREEK TRAIL?
Unfortunately, you’re not too likely to find any gold along the banks of Gold Creek. According to Dalzell (1973), the name “Gold Creek” is simply a carry-over from the days when the Mayer River – which you’ll also pass by before reaching the south end of Mayer Lake – was called “Gold Creek” after an old prospector believed he’d found gold at the river’s mouth. The ungazetted name was given a bit of official status after the Department of Highways immortalized it on their bridge signage.
THE HIKE
We parked our vehicle on the shoulder at Gold Creek Bridge and started hiking on the west (LEFT) side of the creek. As noted above, the trail is informal and sans marker, but all you have to do is follow the creek until you reach the south end of Mayer Lake. The area around the creek is delicate muskeg, so a good pair of boots or waterproof shoes is recommended.
As you amble about the meandering creek, pay close attention to the fragile environment in which you’re walking: Labrador Tea, Sundews and other bog flora are not uncommon. Quite early on in the hike – at around the 10-minute mark – you will also spy two fence posts, from days gone by, on either side of the creek. We wonder what these were used for.
After about an hour, we reached the “junction” where Gold Creek meets the Mayer River. At this point in the hike, you enter a small forested area before re-emerging at the point where the Mayer River meets the south end of Mayer Lake. As you walk along the shore of Mayer Lake, an actual trail is finally visible. You will also likely notice some deer exclosures on the forested side (to your left). These are quite new, having been installed in 2022 in an effort to restore and protect k’ay trees (Crab apple) – the only native fruit trees on Haida Gwaii.
We concluded our hike at the Mayer Lake Day Use Area just as the sun was setting. The serene calm was interrupted by a beaver splashing its tail in the lake. To save time, we walked back along the dirt road and along the highway to our vehicle at the Gold Creek Bridge.
Of course, most people who choose to do this hike are more likely to begin at the Mayer Lake Day Use Area. In that case, once you reach the Gold Creek Bridge, you can simply return the way you came or walk back to the Day Use site via the Highway. Regardless of where you begin, we encourage you to take your time along the banks of the creek: The environment is so unique and so calm that one cannot help but admire the natural beauty that surrounds you. On a clear day, the waters of Gold Creek resemble that of a mirror!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.8km (one-way) TIME: 1 hour and 20 minutes TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
The Cape Fife shelter – it is cozier than it looks!
The signage is helpful
Cape Fife Trail Features: East Beach Access Old growth forest Overnight shelter Settler remnants Board walk trail parts
ABOUT
Cape Fife Trail was established circa 1910 as a settler wagon road to access parcels of land and serve as an important lifeline and access point to East Beach. The wagon road originally started slightly north of the current marked route and terminated at Kumara Lake. The trail now known as Cape Fife was cut in 1972 by the Masset Lions Club, though it does connect with – and follow – large sections of the original route (the old wagon road is obvious when you’re walking on it). At just over 11km one-way (signage says 10km, but this is wrong), it is a long but relatively easy hike with very little elevation gain.
As you hike this route, you will encounter varied landscapes: Rich forest, delicate bogs, intricate sand dunes and endless beaches. Taken as a comprehensive whole, Cape Fife offers a little something for everyone. Whether you choose to hike the whole route, part of it, or camp overnight at East Beach, is entirely up to you. In brief, you can make the hike whatever you’d like it to be.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
The Cape Fife Trail is one of the few signed and marked routes on Haida Gwaii. To access the trail, drive north to Naikoon Provincial Park towards Taaw (Tow Hill). Park your vehicle at the Tow Hill parking lot. From here, walk across the Hiellen River Bridge You will see the Cape Fife trailhead to your right. Thus you now begin your epic hike toward Haida Gwaii’s East Beach!
HIKING THE TRAIL
The Cape Fife Trail begins on the north side of the Hiellen River and is mostly flat and level the whole way. After hiking for about 5 minutes, you’ll come upon a wide open space and a fork in the trail. Cape Fife continues to your LEFT (going right will take you onto the Four Corners). Before continuing, we recommend studying the Cape Fife information board also found in this area. It outlines the route and highlights a couple of key features – study it to ensure you’re adequately prepared for the hike.
The first 4 kilometres take you through a beautiful forest environment, including old-growth cedars, hemlock and pine. Thick mosses of various shades of green carpet on the ground and strategically placed boardwalks help navigate a number of potentially miry sections. After clearing the forest, you enter the bog ecosystem and begin crossing the Argonaut Plain.
If you’ve hiked other bog trails on Haida Gwaii – White Creek, Nadu Homestead or Boulton Lake, for example – you know they can be tricky on account of the delicate and wet ground. Thankfully, you don’t have to contend with that too much on the Cape Fife Trail because boardwalks and stepping logs line the route; however, we recommend still using caution because a number of the boardwalks in this area are old and in need of repair or replacement.
In addition, the trail, at this point, has a lot of roots jutting out of the ground – and this goes on for at least a few kilometres – making parts of the hike a little more challenging. Nevertheless, just watch your step and enjoy the bounty of Labrador tea that surrounds you.
An aside: Henderson (1978) notes that at the 5-kilometre mark, on the north side of the trail, a flagged route will take you to Mica Lake in approximately 15 minutes; at the same point, but on the south side of the trail, there are remnants of a homestead. In the 45 years since those words were written, the flagging tape is gone and we did not notice any homestead remnants at this point; however, the ditching, which was all done with pick and spade, is still very much in evidence along various sections of the Cape Fife Trail. We suppose one could still hike to Mica Lake, but be sure to have a compass or directional app with you.
At about the 7km mark you can hear the waves of Hecate Strait in the distance. The trail also begins a slow descending pattern as you make your way toward the beach. While this part of the trail is mostly clear, roots represent the most significant and sustained obstacle. There is also one area that requires you to get on your knees to crawl under some deadfall.
As you close in on Cape Fife, you descend some stairs and enter the home stretch! These last few meters, though, are covered with long beach grass, obstructing the trail from view. As such, use caution: It’s difficult to see what you’re stepping on and thus represents a tripping hazard. Once you clear the long grass, you are at the Cape Fife shelter!
The Cape Fife shelter was a joint initiative between the Haida Nation and BC Parks. It is built in the traditional longhouse style and contains all of the amenities one could want for a brief break (if hiking Cape Fife as an in-and-out route), or to camp overnight: 4 bunkbeds, wood stove and a small table with a guestbook. An outhouse and a couple of hammocks are also available on-site. Curiously, cellular service is also available here. Kumara Lake, the original terminus of the wagon road, is also visible about one-hundred meters north of the shelter.
Once at the shelter and East Beach, you might wonder “Why Cape Fife?” because there is no “cape” at the trail’s end or within the immediate vicinity. The simple answer is “time.” After years of erosion from the powerful waves, the “cape” that once jutted out here has fallen to the sea.
From Cape Fife, you can simply go back the way you came or make this a much longer hike by walking up East Beach towards the beginning of Rose Spit (roughly 8km) and then hiking south back towards Taaw (roughly 18km).
While Cape Fife is generally an easy hike, its length makes it challenging for some. Allow anywhere from 4 to 6 hours to complete the hike one-way and be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks. The route is well-delineated with a combination of orange triangles and Ben Davidson’s trail marker.
Dempsey Collinson Trail Features: Historic logging practices Salmon Habitat Old Growth Trees & CMTs Rope Sections
ABOUT
CONTEXT
Located just a few feet from the western Crabapple Creek trailhead entrance (near the old M&B site), you’ll spy the “Dempsey Collinson Chief Sgiidagids Memorial Trail” signage. The marker is posted on a large alder tree but, depending upon the time of year, it can be difficult to spot as branches may obstruct it from view. Who was Chief Skidegate and why is there a trail named in his honour? This is not the place for a detailed biography, but it is helpful to provide a brief overview for context:
Dempsey Collinson became Chief Skidegate on 23 March 1973. The event was historically significant because he became the first Haida of the 20th century to renew the ancient tradition of proclaiming his chieftainship through the potlatch ceremony. As Chief Skidegate, he played an integral and life-long role in the community: He helped guide the Council of the Haida Nation at their Hereditary Chiefs table; he worked for his community at the Band level as a Councillor and Chief Councillor; he helped save the Haida Gwaii Watchmen Program via a generous personal monetary donation in the 1980s; and he provided food for the community, always stating “when the tide is low, the table is set.”
When Chief Skidegate passed away in 2008, the tragic loss was even acknowledged in the BC Legislature by Premier Campbell. As such, it is little wonder that Dempsey should have a trail bearing his name. Throughout his life, in both thought and deed, he fought for and protected, Haida Gwaii.
THE VISION
In 2017, local trailblazers Mark Walsh and Remi Gauthier pitched “a plateau trail between Skidegate and [Daajing Giids]” to the municipality of Daajing Giids and even presented a rough outline of where the trail might go. As per their sketch, the route would begin at Skidegate’s Spirit Lake Trail; climb towards Slarkedus Lake and then swing west, run along the top of the plateau through delicate bog and muskeg.
It would eventually pass by Regier Lake before beginning a slow descent and passing along the Gore Brook and Crabapple Creek trails before exiting along the beach, rounding Haydn Turner and going towards Kagan Bay and the log sort. From here, said Walsh and Gauthier, you could connect up with the Sleeping Beauty and Slatechuck Mountain trails. If the route came to fruition, it would be an epic trail that would run north of 10 kilometres one-way.
The idea received a warm reception from the municipality and Skidegate; however, funding difficulties have prevented the full trail from taking shape. Nevertheless, a “rough draft” for a west-end loop began development in 2018 and finished in early 2020. It is this version of the trail covered here.
THE REALITY
As was noted above, the Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail is located a few feet behind the western Crabapple Creek trail marker, near the old M&B site. Just a few feet in, you will spy the rusted remains of an old “diesel donkey” hidden behind some bushes to your RIGHT. After a couple of minutes, you’ll come upon the first of many minor rope sections of the hike – this one bringing you down to Crabapple Creek. Cross the creek and continue hiking north.
As you amble alongside Crabapple Creek, the trail is a bit overgrown thanks to an abundance of salmonberry bushes; however, after you clear them, the trail follows an old 1940s-era skid road and gently climbs. As you hike this section of the trail – crossing a Crabapple tributary along the way – you will spy more of Haida Gwaii’s early logging history: The skid road you’re hiking and many tree stumps, some showing clear evidence of springboard logging.
After climbing the slope and moving east, you begin to see the real treasures of the Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail: Significant groves of old-growth cedar which, for us, was reminiscent of the Old Growth Alley Trail in Tlell. As you stand amongst this grove of ancient trees, you cannot help but feel small and in awe. Look closely: Many of the ancient cedars here show evidence of bark-stripping by the Haida.
Continuing east towards the Gore Brook Trail, there is one major rope section to contend with but, once you clear this hurdle, it’s a gradual descent down the ridge. You will eventually come upon scallop shells lining the trail. These were put in place by former school teacher and outdoor enthusiast, Kevin Borserio.
These shells signify that you’ve completed the marked “Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail” and entered the Gore Brook Trail. After completing Gore Brook, you can stop your hike here, at the cul-de-sac on Second Avenue, or enter the Crabapple Creek Trail and make the entire route a big loop trail.
Trail co-creator Mark Walsh has said that the marked route “shows the whole history of human habitation on these islands.” That’s a lofty statement but, we think, holds true: As you hike this moderately challenging route, you see ancient trees and landscapes; evidence of ancient Haida land use; early 20th-century logging practices; and contemporary outdoor recreation. The trail, while only a small part of the original vision, is still epic in its coverage.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate TOTAL DISTANCE: 4.3km (one way); 6km, if including Gore Brook & Crabapple trail segments TIME: 3hrs TYPE: Loop (including Gore Brook & Crabapple trail segments) ELEVATION GAIN: 260 meters
2nd Avenue entrance marked by trail head of the Charlie Hartie Trail
The trail goes up gradually and can be challenging
Looking down at the lower trees of the trail
Some forest parts have ferns and moss blankets
Charlie Hartie Features: Monumental Cedars CMT (Culturally Modified Tree) Scout Lake access point
Note: This trail is also known as “Charlie Valley” and “Charlie Hardie South Lake Trail” (the latter referencing Scout Lake).
ABOUT
Charlie Hartie Trail, named after a nearby creek which itself was named after early residents of what was then Queen Charlotte City, located at the top of 6TH street, just off 1ST Avenue (turn right).
According to a small information card available at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre, this rough out-and- the back trail takes approximately 2 hours to complete (return). It is important to note the red text used on the trailhead marker. The village uses this colour to denote moderate to hard trails while yellow is used to signify easy routes.
From the trailhead, the Charlie Hartie Trail starts off as a narrow path and gently slopes upward. About 15 minutes in, the trail widens and, as a result, gets a little easier to navigate. Please note that, at this point, the obvious path disappears as you continue your ascent; however, the trail is clearly marked with flagging tape and, curiously, clam shells, which have been placed in groups of three.
In this respect Charlie Hartie shares an affinity with the nearby Gore Brook Trail, which has been marked with scallop shells: Both demonstrate – through these markers – the complex interplay of forest and ocean on Haida Gwaii.
After about 30 or so minutes, the clam shells mostly disappear and blue flagging tape becomes the primary trail marker. The trail begins climbing steeply by this point and the forest remains fairly dense throughout; however, there are a few highlights along the way: A couple of massive trees that have long since fallen over (makes for a great selfie!), an interesting “handrail system” designed to assist you up one of the steeper sections (originally developed as a mountain biking obstacle), impressive cedars, and a culturally modified tree (CMT).
Following a challenging climb, you will eventually come across a fork in the trail and some signage. Curiously, this point marks the end of the “official” trail; or, at least, the hikeable portion of the Charlie Hartie Trail.
The LEFT pointing arrow – “Charlie Hardie” – will bring you to the trail’s namesake creek; however, it’s obvious this route hasn’t been used in a very long time. Significant amounts of blowdown, overgrowth, and lack of markers make navigating toward the creek an unrealistic option. In fact, the Village of Daajing Giids knowledge-holders familiar with this trail strongly advises hiking toward the creek for those reasons.
The RIGHT pointing arrow – “Scout Lake” – will eventually bring you to, well, Scout Lake! For more on this connector route, see our entry at this link.
We should note, by way of conclusion, that this trail seems awkwardly named. Outside of the trail’s starting point, you don’t actually follow the route’s namesake creek; rather, you follow “Templeton Creek” for much of the trail’s length. Based on old maps we’ve seen, this trail may once have been a loop, which took you along Charlie Hartie Creek but, again, overgrowth and lack of maintenance have all but eliminated a portion of this route.
The old fly wheel – remnants of the Saw Mill in town
The heritage tour illustrated map by Judie Hilgemman in “Village of Queen Charlotte Heritage Walking Tour” written by Heather Ramsay
Daajing Giids Seawalk Features: • Urban hike • Early & Contemporary history
ABOUT
On its surface, the Daajing Giids Seawalk is an inspiring urban hike or stroll along the village’s bustling waterfront. At a deeper level, though, this one-kilometre walk takes you deep into the historic heart of Daajing Giids, highlighting key milestones that helped in its own coming-of-age story. That, for us, is the real beauty of the Seawalk and makes it a “must-do” for anyone visiting Haida Gwaii.
The Daajing Giids Seawalk begins at the Visitor Center, near the humpback sculpture by Lon Sharp. It is here, near the strategically placed picnic tables, that you’ll come across the first nugget of historical wisdom on this hike: A short information write-up explaining what brought settlers to what is now Daajing Giids. The Visitor Center also distributes copies of “Village of Queen Charlotte Heritage Walking Tour” written by Heather Ramsay at a reasonable cost. This booklet is rich with the early history of Daajing Giids previously known as Queen Charlotte.
There are a total of 8 such write-ups found throughout the community, all but three of which are found directly along the Seawalk route (the three stragglers can be found across from J&T Restaurant, beside Premier Creek and near the old hospital).
Once you’ve finished admiring the views at the Visitor Centre and Skidegate Inlet, follow the brick-coloured paving stones – which mark the early and late parts of the route – as they wind through Spirit Square. Completed in 2011, this small plaza area has become a cornerstone of the community for public events. The annual Christmas tree light-up is done here and live music is often played on the impressive bandstand. In many ways, Spirit Square could represent just how far Daajing Giids has come in its progressive journey: A communal space welcoming to everyone.
Moving past Spirit Square, the pathway takes you down to the nearby docks. You’ll have to cross the road to continue along the Daajing Giids Seawalk, which is again signified by the brick-coloured paving stones. At this point in your hike, you can observe the Fisherman’s Memorial and the bustling harbour down below.
Another historic write-up, appropriately detailing the importance of the fishing industry, can also be found here. Curiously, from here, the Seawalk is unmarked for about two-hundred meters or so: Walk up the road, past Northern Savings and Charlisle Clothiers, until you hit Wharf Street. Turn LEFT and follow Wharf Street for approximately 150 meters until you hit Oceanview Drive (the main road in town).
Once on Oceanview Drive, the Daajing Giids Seawalk formal markings return; however, the pathway is no longer denoted by paving stones for this stretch of the journey. Instead, the route is marked by a yellow “walking” figure painted on the side of the road.
While this section might prove to be “too urban” for some (since you’re literally walking alongside vehicle traffic), it nevertheless provides epic views of the inlet, harbour and seaplane docks. On the opposite side of the road, you’ll also spy the historic Premier Creek Lodge. Take a brief detour and cross the highway if you’d like to read a bit more history!
After hiking alongside the highway for just over 200 meters, you’ll spy the return of the brick-coloured paving stones at the landscaped garden adjoining the local ballfield. The route will take you around the ballfield, past the Community Hall and children’s park before concluding near the Vancouver Island Regional Library.
At the terminus point of your urban hike, you’ll spy the remnants of Daajing Giids’ old sawmill, which operated between 1909 and 1926. Stroll down the stairs onto the rocky beach for a closer look at the village’s early economy! A nearby write-up helps to provide more context.
Of note, just beyond the library, you’ll see a narrow roadway (Bay Street). This area was once considered the heart of downtown as it was lined with many a business back in the day. Some classic structures still remain, hinting at days long gone by.
Indeed, the Daajing Giids Seawalk is an urban hike. There are plenty of beautiful photo-ops but, just as important, this immersive walk encourages us to learn along the way. Take your time here – you’ll be all the richer for it.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 1 kilometer TIME: 30 minutes TYPE: Point-to-Point ELEVATION GAIN: None
Some of the old fence poles are still around from the settler’s history
The start of the beach trail from the edges of the ranch fence
Looking forward on the beach, dunes amiss
Smooth beach sands on some parts of the trail when low tide
TLELL DUNES WALK FEATURES: · Sandy beach · Early settler history
ABOUT
The “Tlell Dunes Walk” has only ever been mentioned in Fern Henderson’s seminal text, Queen Charlotte Islands: Trail Hikes and Beach Walks (1978). Out of mere curiosity, we decided to check out this beach walkout.
Indeed, while much has changed since Henderson’s book was first published, the directions provided for this particular walk remained virtually unchanged in the current day.
In short, you will find the start of this “beach walk” approximately 3 kilometres south of the Tlell River Bridge and just north of Wiggins Road. A rough dirt road on the ocean side of Highway 16, not far from Hydro Pole 742, indicates the start of this walk.
To begin, gingerly make your way over the rocky shoreline and mountains of driftwood to the beach below. Once on the beach, walk approximately 2 kilometres north and link up with the Misty Meadows Loop trail.
Henderson describes this hike as “a family dune walk for a sunny day.” It certainly is family-friendly, but we’d recommend walking this beach – also known as “Wiggins Road Beach” in the current day – on a low tide; otherwise, you’ll spend the duration hiking over stones of various sizes. The sandy beach is really only exposed during low tides.
At low tide, a significant, firm, sandy beach is exposed. The cool waters of the Pacific Ocean may beckon and call you for a swim; or, if beach combing is your thing, the numerous tide pools that typically form may be of interest.
If you choose to walk closer to the marram grass and treeline, keep an eye on some of the fence posts that line this path – they belong to Richardson Ranch and some date back to 1920.
Besides the local settler history on the one hand and the powerful ocean on the other, the major attraction of this walk, according to Henderson, is the presence of sand dunes. In 2023, we view this statement as more of a historic curiosity and testament to the changing shoreline of Haida Gwaii.
There are certainly very minor sand dunes to be seen along this route, but the more notable ones are observed on the Misty Meadows loop trail and nearby Pesuta/East Beach hikes. Perhaps dunes were more significant here 45 years ago but, in the modern day, the beach itself takes center stage.
In any event, after you’ve walked approximately 2 kilometres, you can either continue along the Misty Meadows loop (which you will have entered by this point) or simply turn back and return the way you came. The original exit of this route – a path near the Parks building – has long since disappeared.
There are lush marsh lands on top of the sand dunes in some parts
The East Beach Trail beaches are endless, although one should closely estimate when the tides come in
The sand dunes on East Beach trail
The top view from the marshlands on top of the dunes
EAST BEACH TRAIL FEATURES: · Miles of remote beach · White Cliffs · Wild Cows
ABOUT
Often described as “Haida Gwaii’s version of the West Coast Trail,” the East Beach Trail wilderness hike is a multi-day trek that will take you from the Tlell Day Use area all the way up towards Cape Fife and, if you’re feeling up to it, Rose Spit and Tow Hill. The total length of the hike depends on your desired exit point. If you choose to conclude your adventure at Cape Fife, you’ll have hiked approximately 78 kilometres when it’s all said and done; or, if you choose to do the Rose Spit loop, the total length of the trail is about 89 kilometres. Either way, it’s a long sojourn and Parks Canada recommends 4 to 8 days to complete the hike; however, the happy medium seems to be anywhere between 3 to 5 days, depending upon one’s fitness level and ambition.
Because this hike is multi-day, it is different from others on Haida Gwaii (the majority of which are day hikes or shorter). In brief, East Beach demands much greater preparation. In order to do this hike, and do it safely, we’d recommend some pre-planning by considering the following:
It is suggested that you hike SOUTH to NORTH so that prevailing winds will be at your back. Hiking in this direction should also shield you from being directly hit by torrential rains.
Bring enough supplies to last the length of your hike (in days).
Ensure you bring enough water OR a good quality water filter (we suggest LifeStraw). Fresh water is surprisingly difficult to come by along East Beach. If using a water filter, don’t be alarmed by the “brown” colour of your water – it’s perfectly safe to drink!
Have knowledge of – and be able to read – a tide table. Sections of East Beach should be completed on a low or receding tide.
Plan to cross rivers on a receding tide; the 3 major rivers along this route cannot be safely navigated on a high tide. We’ve seen unprepared hikers who started their adventure “whenever” and had to wait 5+ hours to cross a river!
The area known as “White Cliffs” is approximately 20 kilometres long and MUST be completed on a receding tide. If you get caught here on a rising tide, that could spell trouble!
There are 2 recognized shelters along the route: The first is at Cape Ball and the second is at Cape Fife. Older maps of East Beach indicate another shelter near the Oeanda River; however, we didn’t notice it (didn’t take the time to look!). There are other informal shelters along the way, too, signified by buoys and floats on driftwood.
The East Beach Trail, while long and somewhat arduous, can be a fun adventure with the above points kept in mind.
Once you cross the Cape Ball River, you’ll encounter the White Cliffs. Again, do this on a receding tide because the cliffs go on for some 20 kilometres and you don’t want to get stuck here! Nevertheless, this area of East Beach is extremely photogenic and, for us, represented one of the highlights. Once you clear the White Cliffs, there is “some interesting landscape but [it gets] mostly monotonous,” to quote another write-up. In short, it’s miles and miles of sand, interspersed with dunes and – in one area called the junk pile – a lot of debris from overseas.
Despite the length of the East Beach hike, there’s really not much to say in terms of narrative. Hiking from the Tlell River Day Use area, you’ll begin in a lovely and lush forest, which runs for about 2 kilometres. From here, you’ll emerge along the banks of the Tlell River and trek for the better part of 4 kilometres towards the Pesuta Shipwreck. Along the way, you might spy river otters frolicking in the Tlell and you’ll most definitely come across a couple of abandoned cabins – the perfect place to rest and have a snack!
As you approach the Pesuta, the sand dunes will undoubtedly grab your attention. From Pesuta, you’ll cross the Mayer River and make your way toward Cape Ball, which is approximately 6 kilometres down East Beach. While the sand is mostly firm, we found that comfortable footwear, i.e.: crocs are ideal here as it gives your feet a bit of a break . . . something you’ll need because you’ll be walking on a LOT of sand!
Anyway, the Cape Ball Shelter represents a nice place to stop depending upon your time of arrival. The shelter, restored in 2017, is small and rustic, but beats staying out in the elements! Speaking of which, did you know Cape Ball may have historically been a watering hole for mammoths? Research conducted in 2015 discovered a large abundance of dung-eating fungi under a layer of peat.
After crossing the Oeanda (the largest river along East Beach), you have the option of hiking along the beach OR exploring the grasslands and wild strawberry fields. For us, the grasslands were a welcomed change of pace, if only because they offered different scenery… . for a while. Seriously, you’d almost think you were transported over to the prairies – not the “edge of the world!” After a time, Cape Fife will come into view and this can be an early exit point or a rest stop before continuing on to Rose Spit and Tow Hill. The Cape Fife Shelter is large and luxurious in comparison to Cape Ball. You may find it difficult to leave 😉
We explored the Rose Spit loop and enjoyed the salty air and seeing Hecate Strait and Dixon Entrance meet. It’s so cool to observe East Beach and North Beach on opposite piles of driftwood! On the other hand, this area is kind of funny, too, because you get passed by many a local and tourists on their vehicles, either food gathering or checking out the culturally significant Rose Spit. Still, it’s fun because you encounter another (small) shipwreck – the Kelly Ruth – and get the pleasure of seeing Tow Hill from a unique perspective.
We did not encounter much wildlife on our East Beach explorations: Some eagles, ravens, beach crabs, a few deer, and a small herd of the fabled wild cows. We came across some bear paw prints, but no bears. Interestingly, as we got further north, we did observe a few carcasses on the beach. It was difficult to tell what they were, due to their states of decomposition, but I’d guess small whales. They smelled lovely 😉
At day’s end, is East Beach worth the time? Absolutely, if you want to partake in an epic hike; however, we wouldn’t say it’s essential. There are plenty of worthy day trips at either end of East Beach (Pesuta, Tow Hill and Rose Spit) – just drive the highway in between! And, if you really want to see the enormous White Cliffs, you can do so as part of a day hike that includes Pesuta because it’s entirely possible to hike out to the start of the Cliffs near Cape Ball and return to the Tlell Day Use site within the span of a day.
DIFFICULTY: Hard TOTAL DISTANCE: 89 kilometers TIME: Multi-day TYPE: Point-to-Point ELEVATION GAIN: None
The trail can go into these lush moss carpets and ferns
The fading trail sign showing the name
The pond along the trail
The forest walk is therapeutic
Around the Pond Trail Features: · Forest therapy · Connects to Onward Point
ABOUT
The “Around the Pond Trail” is easily missed. It isn’t mentioned in any of the sparse trail literature on Haida Gwaii (published or online), nor is it mentioned on the popular Backroad Mapbooks. As such, people find this trail by accident or learn about it from a helpful local. Where is this fabled trail?
If you’re coming from the Kwuna ferry terminal, the trailhead is approximately 6 kilometres down Alliford Bay Road; if coming from Sandspit, it’s about 3.5 kilometres away. Once you get to the Onward Point Trailhead and parking area, simply look across the road towards Hydro Pole 79. There you will see a large diamond-shaped marker. This represents the “Around the Pond” trailhead. If you look closely, you might be able to make out the trail’s name; however, most of it has been completely wiped away on account of being exposed to the elements.
Fading signage notwithstanding, the actual trail is quite nice. As you begin, the route takes you through some dense salal bushes before opening up into a forest dominated by spruce and alders. Here, the moss-covered ground takes center stage and almost makes you feel as though you’ve entered another world. At about the mid-way point, the trail splits in two: Here, you have the option of going around the pond (the trail’s namesake), or doing a “quarry loop.” Both routes eventually link back up with the main trail, so it’s more a matter of preference.
Just before reaching the trail’s end point, you’ll notice more signage pointing towards a cell tower. Taking this short route of about two minutes takes you, well, to the tower. From here, you can either turn back towards the trail or exit out onto the highway and walk to Onward Point.
Once you reach the main trail’s terminus point, you will emerge along the highway a few hundred meters from where you began. Once here, another option presents itself: 1) You can walk back along the road towards Onward Point; or, 2) Cross the road and continue along the trail – which provides some nice beach views – until it connects up with the more popular Onward Point Trail system.
All in all, Around the Pond, represents a nice 20-minute walk through the forest. The route is well- marked and, we’d suggest, is family-friendly. During the spring, this area is also ideal for viewing the endangered fairy slippers. For the best use of time, we’d recommend doing this trail as part of Onward Point.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 1 kilometer TIME: 20 minutes TYPE: Loop ELEVATION GAIN: None
OLD GROWTH ALLEY FEATURES: • Riparian forest • Old Growth trees • Remote wilderness hike
ABOUT
The Old Growth Alley Trail is a complex beast. It is both a contradiction and a stinging example of what happens with haphazard, piecemeal funding.
When the trail was first developed by the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS) in 2004, they said it was “bound to be a new favourite trail for visitors and residents” of Haida Gwaii. Offering a unique window into the riparian forest of the lower Tlell River, the route had much to teach those willing to hike this challenging 9.5km point-to-point trail. Unfortunately, a lack of maintenance led to the trail’s quick decline. Now, in 2022, if you ask locals about the “Old Growth Alley Trail in Tlell,” almost all will shoot you a quizzical look and ask, “Where’s that?”
The question is fair because, although formal trailhead signage was erected in 2004, these have all been removed; thus, the trail lies hidden in plain sight. Because it is a point-to-point trail, it has two separate entrances, which are approximately 3 kilometres apart. The southern entrance is located along Highway 16, near hydro pole 805. If beginning your hike here, park your vehicle at a small grassy pullout on the “ocean side” of the highway and then walk across the road and northward for a few feet. You’ll eventually spy a small white sign to your left: “DANGER! Do Not Hike During HIGH WINDS.” This sign represents the Old Growth Alley southern trailhead. From here, it is a 3km walk to the Tlell River. The route is very overgrown and takes you through a bog environment. There’s also clear evidence of the Great Fire of the 1840s, but not much else of note.
For those wishing to access the lower Tlell River and experience the old growth “alley” in a more expedient way and manner, then the northern entrance is the most convenient. To access this trailhead, turn up the short dirt road indicated by Tlell “Farmers Market” signage and then park your vehicle at the nearby soccer fields, just behind the Tlell Fire Hall. From this point, walk along the far northwest corner of the soccer field until you come upon a dense stand of young spruce trees. If you look closely you’ll spy a weathered, old piece of flagging tape. This represents the northern trailhead of Old Growth Alley.
From here, push your way through dense salal bushes and walk through second-growth forest for about 20 minutes before coming upon the Tlell River and the start of the old growth “alley.” It is here where the magic and importance of this trail really shines through.
Once you reach the river, the trail follows the main stem of the lower Tlell for about 6km before exiting at one of the two trailheads. Thankfully, a fair number of the blue arrow markers remain intact and guide you along the route. While this portion of the hike is mostly flat, be prepared for some minor hill climbs, significant blowdown, a couple of stream crossings and potentially slippery logs. As you meander along the tranquil, dark waters of the Tlell, be sure to admire the many “old growth” trees that hug the river bank. Large cedar and sitka spruce dominate this area. These trees, alone, highlight the importance of this route, but the old growth alley is about so much more.
Think about it. You’re walking the rough trail along the Tlell River. Beautiful old growth trees of Sitka and Cedar surround you, but what else do we see? The effects and importance of riparian wilderness areas in regulating water in the watershed; the importance of large woody debris; unique habitat for a variety of wildlife species; and, of course, the important role we all play in this. These are deeper observations, but they come readily when exploring such an isolated and relatively untouched area.
We said, above, that Old Growth Alley was a contradiction. It’s a contradiction because it was supposed to be a major trail popular for those seeking a day in the wilderness; however, it just sort of withered away. We also said this trail is a classic example of what happens with piecemeal funding: When it was developed nearly 20 years ago, it was likely still a challenging trail but definitely a lot easier to navigate.
Now, though, significant overgrowth and lack of maintenance has all but hidden the route – and this is unfortunate exactly because Old Growth Alley offers so much to those of us who hike it.
DIFFICULTY: Hard TOTAL DISTANCE: 9.5km TIME: 8 hours TYPE: Point-to-point ELEVATION GAIN: None
Start of the Jags Trail is an off side trail in the main Spirit Lake Trail
The trail goes steeper and steeper…
Bear Skin Bay at a distance
Looking over at Skidegate Inlet
JAGS TRAIL FEATURES Viewpoints of Skidegate Inlet 4 Rope Sections
Note: The Jags Trail at Spirit Lake is one of a few trails created by Jags Brown. This trail should not be confused with his earlier effort, The K’yuu Aanagung / Spirit Lake Connector Trail, located across from the Haida Heritage Centre.
ABOUT
The Jags Trail at Spirit Lake was developed by Jags Brown, proprietor of the always excellent Jags Beanstalk, in 2012. Unfortunately, some 11 years later, the trail is little-known and most hikers walk right on by without even realizing it’s there. I suppose that’s understandable because there is no trailhead marker denoting the route – there’s just some subtle flagging tape off to the side that’s very easy to miss. We hiked the trail, upon Jags’ recommendation, this Spring.
GETTING TO THE TRAIL
To locate the Jags Trail, start your hike at the Spirit Lake Trailhead. Hike the Spirit Lake Trail for approximately 710 meters, stopping near the newly installed “Devil’s Club” information sign. Once here, look to your RIGHT. You should see a not-so-obvious path with some faded pink flagging tape around a tree. This signifies the start of the Jags Trail. While the route does not appear long on paper, BRMB recorded it as 2.60 kilometres in length one-way, due in large part to the significant zig-zagging done in navigating the trail.
HIKING THE TRAIL
As you begin the trail, heading north from Spirit Lake Trail, it ascends fairly quickly. While no longer maintained, the route is exceptionally well-marked –flagging tape is visible every few feet, so there’s very little chance of going off trail. Use caution, though, as the loose soil and twigs underfoot can make hiking the side hill a challenge.
After about 20 minutes or so, you will encounter the first of four rope sections, which follow in seriatim. We recommend taking your time here, as the trail is very steep and some of the rope sections require you to navigate large deadfall. There are suitable places to rest after each rope section – great places to stop for a hydration break or admire the large cedars and narrow hemlock trees along the route.
Once you’ve tackled the rope sections, it’s just a short hike to the summit and viewpoint. The views of Skidegate Inlet, especially on a clear day, are breathtaking and make the difficult hike well worth the effort! We see there was once a hammock on site as well (similar to the Lookout Trail), but it’s long since been shredded, which is a shame because a cozy rest would’ve felt great after scaling the hill! After admiring the view and catching your breath, simply return the way you came.
The Jags Trail is rough, steep and unmaintained, so be prepared for difficult conditions. If you manage to make it to the top, though, your efforts will be rewarded. Once you make it back to the Spirit Lake trailhead, why not head on over to Jags Beanstalk for a light bite and a good cup of coffee?
DIFFICULTY: Hard TOTAL DISTANCE: 2.6km (one-way) TIME: 3 hours (return) TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: 120 meters
An interesting dead end at the middle of the Sangan River
Sangan River seemingly flowing towards Tow Hill at a distance
Best to walk the Sangan River trail on low tide
On a clear blue sky, the Sangan River acts like a mirror to the clouds
Sangan River Trail Features · Fishing access point · Cultural significance
Please note: The Sangan River Trail can only be hiked on a receding or low tide.
ABOUT
The Sangan River (SGangan Gandlee) is a culturally significant river for the Haida. For thousands of years, they’ve used it for culture, food gathering, and recreational purposes. The river slowly meanders out of Naikoon Provincial Park spills out into the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, where the ocean and river meet is like a collision of two different, yet highly related worlds. It makes us recall, and reflect upon, an important Haida value: Gina ‘waadluxan gud ad kwaagid – Everything depends on everything else.
The Sangan River Trail is perhaps better described as a river walk than an actual trail. There is no formal trailhead, nor trail markers denoting the route; however, it is very easy to find and represents a peaceful walk – one that allows you to disconnect from the wired world and re-connect with nature and the elements. To access the Sangan River Trail, drive 10-minutes outside of Masset until you come upon the Sangan River Bridge. Park your vehicle somewhere safely off the road and cross the bridge (the side nearest Limberlost Place). Now simply descend to the banks of the Sangan River. From this point, the trail runs approximately 900 meters before rounding the point to South Beach and connecting to the epic 25-kilometre (one-way) Tl’lellan to Old Massett Trail – an epic beach walk that takes you from Tow Hill into Old Massett, or vice versa.
From a recreational perspective, the Sangan River Trail represents an easy walk for people of all skill levels because the terrain is flat. Most people, if using it for hiking, tend to connect with South Beach for a more epic and worthwhile adventure; otherwise, the Sangan is primarily used for kayaking and as a world-renowned fishing river: Pink, Coho and Chum Salmon are regularly caught here.
In many respects, walking the Sangan River Trail reminded me of the larger Misty Meadows beach loop trail. In both instances, you’re walking the banks of famous fishing rivers; both rivers are low, calm and meander for many a mile; and both carry with them a deep cultural significance far greater than any of us could ever explain. At day’s end, though, the Sangan River, much like the Tlell further south, calms the mind and relaxes the soul.
The clear skies reflected on the tidal pools and wet sands of Miller Beach
The wet sands act like mirror to the skies
The top view of the sea kissing the shores of Miller Beach
DCIM100MEDIADJI_0142.JPG
The washed up dead ends on the shore of Miller Beach
Behind these tall trees is the highway access to Miller Beach
Miller Beach Features: Beach access Swimming
ABOUT
Located approximately 5 minutes north of Skidegate by car, you’ll find Chinukundl Creek, more popularly known as Miller Creek. Just up from the bridge, you’ll also spy Chinukundl Road. Turning up the road will take you into the informal community known as Miller Creek.
If you’re wondering where the name “Miller Creek” comes from, the area was named after Mr. Müller, an early settler who had a homestead near the creek prior to 1908. While the area was first called Müller’s Creek, it has morphed and changed with the passage of time to the “Miller Creek” of today. Interestingly, according to Dalzell, Mr. Müller had once thought he found gold at Mayer River, causing him to call it Gold Creek” – a name you still see today.
Almost directly across from Chinukundl Road, you’ll see the unmarked – but plainly obvious – trail to Miller Beach. The trail is wide enough for ATVs (their tracks readily apparent) and is well-used by locals.
During Spring and Summer, it is not unusual to see a line of vehicles parked alongside the road and many a patron enjoying this picturesque hidden gem of a beach. At high tide, the beach is mostly pebbles and rock but, come low tide, soft sand is revealed.
Enjoy a walk along the beach; beachcombing in the small tidal pools; or, a weenie roast and picnic. Hidden in plain sight, Miller Beach is perfect for the whole family.
The other way leads towards Beitush Road, giving way toward the banks of the Tlell River
The trail now splits into two paths, one towards cemetery and the other towards the start of Beitush Road
The endless moss greenery
The “big tree” or “wolf tree” that has been around for a long time.
Susan’s Trail Features: – A big wolf tree – Mossy forest walk – A route leading to Tlell River
ABOUT
We discovered Susan’s Trail quite by chance earlier this year while browsing the Hospital Day- sponsored “Trail Bingo.” The “bingo card” features a number of well-known short trails, including the aforementioned “Susan’s Trail” – the only one on the list we were unfamiliar with. After a bit of detective work, we discovered the trail, in the current day, is recorded on most maps as part of the larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail. Where, then, is Susan’s Trail and why is it important?
Susan’s Trail is unmarked, but its location is familiar: As you drive in towards the Misty Meadows campsite you will inevitably spy “the big tree” to your left. This marks the start, or trailhead, of Susan’s Trail. You can park your car on the side of the road or drive a couple of hundred meters forward to the campsite and park there before beginning your hike.
Susan’s Trail was developed by the late Susan Wright and her husband. It is single-track and runs for approximately 720 meters one-way through fairly dense salal early on before transitioning into mossy carpeted forest of a young hemlock. Within the final 70 meters, the trail runs close to Highway 16 and skirts the Tlell Cemetery, so if you’re afraid of ghosts or ghouls you might wish to skip this one 😉 At the trail’s terminus point, you will emerge onto the dirt road that leads to the cemetery.
From here, you have two options: Turn back and return the way you came OR walk out onto Beitush Road and stroll north along the Tlell River to experience and/or complete the larger Misty Meadows Loop Trail (described at length in another entry).
The trail, while brief, represents a good bit of local contemporary history. In that respect, it’s a shame the route is now just considered part of the larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail.
The endless beach at the Misty Meadows Beach Loop trail
The “main” camping grounds structures
The accessibility friendly section towards the beach
Aerial view of the sand dunes on the shorted beach loop trail
The Tlell River vista point where you can see the Pesuta Ship Wreck trail on the right, the Misty Meadow Beach Loop trail on the left
The trail lets you spy the Pesuta Ship wreck at a distance
Sand dunes on the trail
View of the trail from the Haida House side of Tlell River
Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail Features
Sand dunes Beach access Proximity to campground
ABOUT
Primarily thought of as a campground, Misty Meadows offers a whopping 30 sites for campers. Potable water, picnic tables and pit toilets are also available on-site. From a recreational perspective, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail serves as a nice introduction to the wonders of Naikoon Provincial Park. It offers beach access and some nice hiking. From the main campsite, the beach is literally a 3-minute walk; however, we’d argue the beach is only particularly noteworthy during a very low tide. At other times, the beach in this area is rock and pebbles. For those wishing to hike, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail offers two options: 1) A short beach loop, which clocks in at about 1km round-trip; and, 2) A much longer beach loop, which comes in at around 10.5km round-trip.
The shorter loop is well marked – just follow the posted signage. It should take about 20 minutes to complete and goes through the forest, sand dunes and beach. Note: There are a couple of side trails at the dunes – one of which takes you to the park boundary and beyond; however, please note that once you hit the boundary (denoted with a small sign), you will be skirting along private property. The dunes in this part of Naikoon are nice, but there are much larger ones further north along the Pesuta and East Beach trails.
If you’re feeling energetic, though, the longer loop may be for you. Basically, start at the same point as the shorter loop. Once you begin walking north along the beach, DO NOT turn in toward the Misty Meadows campsite; instead, just keep walking north for a good 5 kilometres or so. You will eventually come upon the mouth of the Tlell River and, assuming its low tide, you can actually get fairly close to the Pesuta Shipwreck, which sits on the opposite side of the river. From here, and for another 5 kilometres, the “loop” basically follows the Tlell River inland. Walking this route, you will come across impressive sand dunes and spy remnants of previous settlements. During Spring and early Summer, the dunes are full of wild strawberries while the sandy riverbank is rife with delectable sea asparagus.
Once you reach the Haida House, you can continue walking along the Tlell via the riverbank or Beitush Road. It is not uncommon to see locals fishing for steelhead, coho and trout along this stretch of the river. The “trail” will eventually have you cross Beitush Road and walk a short way up the dirt road towards Tlell cemetery. A few meters in, you will see the trail, denoted by a pink flagging tape, resume to your right. This single-file, well-maintained stretch runs for about 500 meters and brings you out by one of Misty Meadows’ more notable attractions, lovingly referred to as “the big tree.” From here, simply walk along the paved road back to the Misty Meadows campground.
An aerial view of the Dixon Entrance and the Hecate waters
The eye level view of the edge of Rose Spit
Tow Hill from the North Beach
North Beach, facing the Dixon Entrance
ROSE SPIT FEATURES · Edge of the World · Haida Creation Story · Crab and clam harvesting
ABOUT
Located on the northeastern tip of Graham Island, and wholly within Naikoon Provincial Park, Rose Spit is perhaps best described as a long beach walk rather than a trail hike.
To begin your North Beach trek towards “the Spit,” walk down the dirt road from the Hiellen Cabins and onto the beach: You are now at the trailhead/start of your epic walk to Rose Spit.
At 18 kilometres one-way, a proper walk out to the precipice should be well timed on a falling tide because the last few kilometres do get submerged by the waves on a high tide. Thus, walk only as far as you believe to be reasonable – you are completely at the mercy of the tides here!
While the hike to Rose Spit is entirely on flat ground, the hard sand and, later, pebbly beach are surprisingly tough on one’s feet! Be sure to wear comfortable footwear, otherwise, the long hike back to Towhill Road and the Hiellen Cabins could be a rather painful affair. Still, the hike is well worth the effort because there’s surprisingly a lot to see.
As you walk along North Beach, you’ll undoubtedly notice plenty of vehicle traffic. The majority will be trucks and ATVs, but it’s not uncommon to see standard-size vehicles on the beach as well! Most are joyriding – enjoying the endless kilometres of sandy beach – but some are also gathering traditional foods like cockles, razor clams and Dungeness crab. If you’re lucky, one of the locals just might show you how to catch a deceptively speedy razor clam, or offer up a freshly caught crab – true gifts of the sea!
At about the 5-kilometre mark, you’ll come upon one of this area’s unnatural attractions: The small shipwreck of the Kelly Ruth, which has been here since 1994. Like the larger Pesuta along East Beach, the Kelly Ruth is surprisingly photogenic, offering many unique angles and contrasts with the natural landscape.
It is also at this point, if you’ve chosen to drive onto the beach using a small vehicle, that we’d advise you stop and walk the rest of the way to Rose Spit because the compact sand begins to give way to a pebbly beach much more suited to ATVs and 4×4 trucks.
Approaching the end of Rose Spit, things begin to come into perspective. Turn around and view Tow Hill: It looks so small off in the distance. Now, turn back around and look at the edge of the world. Roughly a kilometre wide at the forest’s edge, Rose Spit narrows to just a few feet before disappearing beneath the waves of the Pacific Ocean.
As you stand here at the precipice of Haida Gwaii, you have the wind at your back; Dixon Entrance and North Beach on your left; and, the Hecate Strait and East Beach on your right. The pebbly Spit, wet sand and unique agates rest at your feet. When you’re out here, it’s easy to enjoy the cool sea breeze and rejuvenating wind . . . and then you notice a clam shell at your feet.
Rose Spit is a place of high cultural significance to the Haida. The area figures prominently in their creation stories. As told in the story “Raven and the First Man,” Raven found himself alone day, flying over Rose Spit.
Landing on the beach, Raven noticed “an extraordinary clamshell at his feet, and protruding from it were a number of small creatures.” He coaxed them out of the shell and, even though some were hesitant, “they emerged from the partly open clamshell to become the first Haida.”
This important creation story is beautifully captured in Bill Reid’s “Raven and the First Men” carving at the UBC Museum of Anthropology.
Knowing the Haida Creation Story adds a layer of complexity to one’s Rose Spit experience. For us, it makes this so much more than a beach walk or a place to observe rare plants like Sea Bluebells.
It brings into synthesis Haida culture, history, myth and physical geography. Standing at the tip of Rose Spit and looking back toward Tow Hill, we cannot help but come to a stark realization: No matter how imperfect we are, we each have a place in this world and we owe it to ourselves to protect it.
Sunny day you can see a longer spit jutting out to sea
Different marine life washed up on the “Sand Spit”
The background – Graham Island
Most of the Spit Walk Trail is on grass lands
The grass land parts of the trail
SPIT WALK TRAIL FEATURES: · Access to Sand Spit · Running & Biking · Family-friendly
ABOUT
The “Spit Walk Trail” is something of a surprise on at least two fronts. First, we were flabbergasted to learn of this trail’s existence. Despite spending a significant amount of time on Haida Gwaii, we’d never once heard of this trail. It was only after reading a brief write-up from Ocean Sound
Kayaking and spying on the route on a detailed map of Haida Gwaii by BRMB that our veil of ignorance was lifted. Second, the Spit Walk was surprising in that it was basically hiding in plain sight.
On the one hand, it is kind of surprising we didn’t know of this trail given that it’s basically a 5-kilometre loop around the perimeter of Sandspit Airport (BRMB erroneously says 10KM); thus, it’s hardly a brief walk easily missed.
On the other hand, we could argue it’s not terribly surprising because, like most trails on Haida Gwaii, no explicit trailhead signage exists. It seems like you just have to “know” about it. Then again, Ocean Sound Kayaking – the only piece of literature we’ve seen on this trail – does say it’s a “locals trail,” indicating those who live here certainly know about it.
The Spit Walk can be accessed at two major points – along Tacan Road or Beach Road. If you want to do this hike, we’d recommend starting at Beach Road adjacent to Lon Sharp’s “Spirit of Sandspit” (giant salmon) sculpture because there’s parking available at the site of the former government wharf.
If you choose to start at Tacan Road, you’ll have a hard time with parking unless you park in the nearby SuperValu lot. So, for the sake of argument, let’s assume you’re starting from the “Spirit of Sandspit.”
From here, just walk along the perimeter fence of Sandspit Airport (YZP). The trail is wide, flat and clearly visible. It may seem a bit daunting going straight on such flat land for lengths at a time, but there are benches strewn about to allow for some rest.
Just note that because this trail is largely exposed to the elements, it is not advisable to hike or jog this route during high winds.
In addition, if you wish to break up the monotony, there are a few little side paths that provide access to the rocky beach. If you’re visiting at low tide, we’d strongly recommend detouring off the Spit Walk and enjoying the Sand Spit (Sandspit’s namesake).
There’s just something peaceful about being able to walk so far out from the mainland and using the ocean’s calm to clear one’s head. Not to mention, “the Spit” is home to some of the best clam-digging on Haida Gwaii! Just make sure, if you do hike out to the actual “Spit,” you do so at a low or receding tide so as not to get caught by the incoming tide.
If you exclude an excursion to the beach, the physical landscape of the Spit Walk is largely grassy and flat. Daisies, Buttercups and Yarrow abound. However, given the flatness of the route, it’s easy to see why many a local enjoys running or biking along this loop – makes for some good exercise.
As you finish this easy walk and emerge onto Tacan Road, the only thing to watch out for is vehicle traffic since this part of the “trail” as you walk along the side of an active road until you loop back to Beach Road. Besides that, there really is nothing to be wary of on the trail except for the odd low-flying aircraft (haha), winds and angry squirrels in the bushes.
Overall, the Spit Walk is an enjoyable excursion suitable for the whole family. Along with the added benefit of some nice exercise, it affords us the opportunity to explore a little more of Sandspit. All of that said, this trail certainly isn’t for everybody. If you’re an adventure seeker or want to spend time in the forest, the Spit Walk may be a little boring or even one-note. If, however, you want to inhale that fresh sea air, then you’ll enjoy this easy hike!
Haida Canoe Trail #2 – The ancient canoe on this trail
Ancient canoe
The rugged road towards the ancient canoe
HAIDA CANOE TRAIL #2 FEATURES: · Ancient Haida canoe · Culturally Modified Trees · Late 20th century logging
ABOUT
This trail technically doesn’t have a name but, because it leads to another ancient Haida Canoe, the tendency has just been to call it “Haida Canoe Trail #2” – an interesting name choice since you actually come upon its trailhead BEFORE the “Haida Canoe Trail” that most everyone visits.
How and why do most miss this trail? It isn’t marked, but we will try to spell it out. From Port Clements, the unmarked trailhead is approximately 11.5 kilometres away:
Drive 10 minutes, or 3.5 kilometres from Port Clements to the Golden Spruce trailhead pullout. The road turns from paved (Bayview Drive) to gravel. Once you hit the gravel Port Man Forest Service Road, please be aware that you’re on active logging roads.
From the Golden Spruce trailhead pullout, continue driving straight along the Forest Service road for approximately 7.5 kilometres. At this point, you should keep an eye out for an old single-track logging spur road on your LEFT. If you pass the “HAIDA CANOE” sign (Haida Canoe Trail), then you’ve driven too far. The old road essentially represents the trailhead.
From the old logging road, it is a one-kilometre stroll to the trail’s terminus point. The hike is largely unremarkable – as you pass through a lot of alders and young spruce – though you may encounter the odd grouse strutting about! At one point, you do come to a large fork in the road: Go to your RIGHT.
After a couple of minutes, you will come to the end of the road. Once here, look to your right. You should see what appears to be a deer trail going up a small incline through some fairly dense salal bushes. This part of the trail is only about 45 meters long and brings you to the reason you hiked this route: An ancient “blank” Haida canoe, carved circa the 1860s.
In our opinion, this site is far more interesting than the better-known “HAIDA CANOE” trail nearby. It provides a richer experience. As soon as you pass through the salal, you’re met with a cold chill and then you see everything in front of you: A culturally modified tree (CMT) – the stump of a large monumental cedar – greets you, demonstrating where the canoe below came from. To your left, another CMT with a large “test hole” can be seen. Then, down below, is the moss-covered Haida canoe. The early shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern is clearly evident, along with the flattening of the top of the log in preparation for its hollowing out. Maybe it’s the green moss or the stories attached to the site, but this canoe just “grabs” us far more than the other canoe trail.
We were introduced to this unmarked trail by Dale Lore. He’s the former Mayor of Port Clements and the current owner of Bayview Market. As Mayor, he made a historic move in siding with the Haida Nation over logging disputes on the islands. This was notable because Port Clements is a logging community and Dale himself spent the better part of 20 years building roads for M&B and Weyerhaeuser to extract resources. Now, he offers tours of unique sites along the Port Clements backroads – this Haida canoe site being one of them.
As Mr. Lore explained to us, this site was “discovered” in the mid-1990s. Logging companies were building the access road to, well, cut down some trees and make a profit. As the road was being built, the loggers stumbled upon this site. There was talk of sneaking the blank canoe out and continuing uninterrupted, but Mr. Lore notified the Haida Nation – advising them that they “need to see this.”
Subsequently, because logging is not permitted at culturally significant sites, the operation was halted and stopped. Back to that “chill” you feel: There is little doubt this site is full of energy.
You feel it the moment you exit the salal. The ancient structures of the past speak to us and share their story. They have much to teach us if only we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen. On the one hand, they highlight all that was lost during the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s; on the other hand, they symbolize just how intelligently the Haida used (and use) the forest.
While you are visiting this site, or any other culturally significant area on Haida Gwaii, please practice Yahguudang (respect for all beings).
Note 1: It is possible to drive the old spur logging road, but we would only recommend doing this if you don’t mind getting your vehicle all scratched up from the trees reaching over onto the road.
Note 2: If you would like to book a tour with Dale Lore, drop by and visit him at Bayview Market or contact him via email: dalelore@gmail.com
ANCIENT HAIDA CANOE TRAIL FEATURES: · 160 year-old Haida canoe
ABOUT
Realistically one doesn’t have to travel very far if one wishes to see a Haida canoe while visiting Haida Gwaii. There are a number of beautiful examples at the Haida Heritage Centre, for example, including Bill Reid’s famous “Lootas.” Reid’s “wave eater” was originally carved from a single red cedar for Expo ’86. But what if we desire to see something older, something that harkens back to an earlier time?
It is possible to see a “blank” (unfinished) Haida canoe not far from the community of Port Clements. To get to it, you must hike the aptly named “Haida Canoe Trail.” How do you get to it?
The Haida Canoe Trail is roughly 8km past the Golden Spruce Trail, along the Port Man Forest Service Road. You will notice a large sign that says “HAIDA CANOE” on the left side of the road, at the “Y” before the Port Man turns into the QC Mainline. The sign is impossible to miss and it points you in the direction of the ancient Haida canoe. We would not recommend driving up the old road leading to the trailhead. It is not maintained and is full of deadfall – rather large branches – strewn across sections of the road. Instead, we’d recommend simply parking on the side of the main road and walking towards the trailhead. If you’re worried about traffic getting by your vehicle – don’t be. The Forest Service Road in this area is sufficiently wide for traffic to pass safely.
The Haida Canoe Trail is a brisk 400 meters in length from the signed trailhead, though it’s probably closer to 700 meters if you include the section of old road outside the HAIDA CANOE sign. Regardless, it is an easy hike – less than 10 minutes one-way. Once you reach the “Canoe Trail” signage, the route is single-track but well-maintained. After a little over 5 minutes, the dense forest opens up to the unfinished ancient Haida canoe. This canoe, now surrounded by thick salal bushes, is estimated to be around 150 years old. It’s quite remarkable that, even after all this time, you can still make out the shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern along with the flattening of the top in preparation for its hollowing out via steam.
Beyond being able to view this fantastic artifact in real-time, we appreciate the story it tells. This canoe, and others like it (there are dozens in the forests around Haida Gwaii), is a powerful reminder of all that was lost when the smallpox epidemic hit the Islands in the early 1860s. It’s not hard to imagine the carvers of this canoe succumbing to the disease, resulting in its abandonment in the forest. In the contemporary period, one could also suggest that this canoe and the story behind it help to explain why the residents of Haida Gwaii fought so hard to keep visitors away during the early stages of the COVID pandemic. History can teach us much if we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.4 kilometers (return, to logging road) TIME: 20 minutes TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
Boulton Lake Trail aerial view of the whole hidden lake
Boulton Lake Trail boggy part
In summer, tread on lightly as the tiny sundews are out!
BOULTON LAKE TRAIL FEATURES: · Bog environment · Water activities
ABOUT
Boulton Lake Trail is located approximately 28 kilometres south of Masset and 14.6 kilometres north of Port Clements, along Highway 16. The trailhead is unmarked but is signified by a small dirt pullout directly across from hydro pole 330. The pullout has enough room for two small vehicles.
After you’ve parked your vehicle, you should be able to see the trailhead through some dense salal bushes. Once you’ve pushed through these, the trail opens up very briefly before becoming overgrown with tall, thick salal bushes again. You’ll be pushing blindly through these for a few moments before entering much shorter stands of salal and a few skinny bog cedars.
While you’ll no longer be blinded by tall salal, the trail remains overgrown, but the path is easy enough to follow. After about two minutes or so, you’ll come upon a very muddy/boggy section that’s often flooded. If you’re not wearing boots, try your best to step on the roots or deadfall to minimize getting wet feet. After you clear this obstacle, you’ll emerge onto the unique bog environment with its thick mosses and stunted trees. The impressive, but shallow, Boulton Lake is just steps away.
Because it only takes five minutes to walk this trail (one-way), it isn’t really used for recreational hiking; rather, the lake is multi-use: People have used Boulton Lake for kayaking and simply relaxing on the water. It’s also occasionally used for research. The Unarmoured Threespine Stickleback is endemic to this lake and has been subject to studies by the Federal Government.
If you’re here exploring the delicate bog environment or admiring the calm waters of Boulton, it can be tricky relocating the trail and finding your way back to the highway. A lot of the stunted trees look the same. Our pro tip? To head back towards the trailhead, line yourself up with the aluminum skiff resting at the edge of Boulton Lake. Walk towards the treeline from here – the boat is perfectly aligned with the unmarked trail.
Pure Lake Trail on summery skies reflect the heavens
The trail head or entrance to the short walk
Pure Lake Trail from above leading to the picnic tables to the lake
The aerial view of Pure Lake
PURE LAKE TRAIL FEATURES: · Picnicking · Swimming · Family-friendly
ABOUT
Pure Lake Provincial Park was created in 1981 and covers approximately 142 hectares, completely encompassing Pure Lake within its boundaries. Located about 19 kilometres south of Masset and 25 kilometres north of Port Clements, along Highway 16, the park is popular with tourists and locals alike because it provides such easy access to a beautiful, calm and shallow lake.
You will see signage indicating the pullout to Pure Lake as you drive along Highway 16. There’s ample parking here for several vehicles. A single pit toilet is nearby.
To access Pure Lake Trail, you must hike a short trail of approximately 329 meters (one-way). It only takes about 3 minutes to reach the lake, but please note that sections of this trail can and do get quite muddy – especially after some rainfall. Once you reach the terminus point of the trail, you’ll come upon a small sandy beach and, of course, the lake. This is a popular day-use area for picnics and swimming. As such, you’ll find 5 picnic tables and 2 fire pits. Unfortunately, there is no formal trail system allowing further exploration of the lake. Thick underbrush and salal dominate the immediate landscape.
While Pure Lake is wildly popular during the warmer summer months, it is also a destination during the cold winters. Because the lake is so shallow, it’s not uncommon for it to completely freeze over. If conditions are right, you can walk right out onto the lake! Locals will typically visit Pure Lake during the winter to ice skate.
The Crab Trap Trail is a relatively new route in the Village of Daajing Giids. Created by Instagram user “theloamripper” over a period of 1.5 years, the trail officially opened in June 2020 with the posting of the official trailhead marker. We’d observed the signage when we first hiked the Gore Brook Trail near the end of 2020 but didn’t get around to hiking this route until now – nearly 3 years later. Curiosity – and the need for “new” trails – got the better of us!
GETTING TO THE TRAILHEAD
Locating the signed trailhead for Crab Trap Trail can be a little tricky because, much like the Scout Lake Trail, the trailhead marker for Crab Trap is actually located along another route. If you’d like to hike the Crab Trap, follow these steps:
1) Drive to the end of 2nd Avenue and park in the cul-de-sac.
2) You will see the trailhead marker for the Crabapple Creek route. To your RIGHT you will observe an unmarked trail (an early exit for Gore Brook Trail). Hike up this path for 200 meters.
3) After hiking for a couple of minutes, you will see the black Crab Trap trailhead marker to your LEFT. You are now at Crab Trap Trail!
THE ROUTE
Notwithstanding the trailhead sign, Crab Trap Trail is unmarked but the path is plainly obvious. Right out of the gate, the trail splits; however, don’t let this alarm you. It does not matter which path you take on the “Y” – they merge into one trail literally one minute into your hike.
The path on the right is just a “shortcut” of sorts. A couple of minutes into your hike you’ll come across a bridge, which provides the first significant hint as to this trail’s primary purpose: Crab Trap Trail is promoted as a mountain biking route – something highlighted on both “theloamripper’s” Instagram page and the TrailForks website.
Indeed, evidence of this abounds: There are a couple of small jumps, including a “gap” jump; steep descents meant for bikers to get a bit of air time; and, there’s even a berm near the end of the route! Beyond the mountain biking structures in place, the obvious tire tracks in the mud also give it away!
While Crab Trap was designed to function as a mountain biking trail, it is also a wonderful hiking trail. Clocking in at a brisk 1.2 kilometres one-way, the route takes you through a beautiful forest of spruce, hemlock and lush ferns.
At about the mid-way point, the trail drops steeply for a moment. This was likely done to benefit those on mountain bikes, but it can be a little tricky navigating on foot due to mud. Once down the steep embankment, however, you will see orange arrows and another trail – that’s because Crab Trap actually intersects the old Crabapple Trail route at this point. You can follow it if you like, but if you wish to finish the Crab Trap, continue your gradual descent down the unmarked but obvious trail.
Hike another 10 minutes and you’ll eventually link up to the main Crabapple Trail, as signified by the giant tire. At this juncture, the “Crab Trap Trail” – as marked on TrailForks – essentially turns into the Crabapple Trail. Follow the marked route to your RIGHT, pass by the Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail and end your adventure at the old M&B site.
From here, you can do one of 3 things: 1) Turn around and go back the way you came; 2) Follow the primary Crabapple Creek Trail route (denoted by white markers) back to Second Avenue; or, 3) Walk back along the road.
CRABAPPLE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES: · Evidence of early logging · Fish-bearing creek
ABOUT
Crabapple Creek Trail is another of the Daajing Giids’ “community trails.” It is approximately 1 kilometre in length (one-way) and is, in our view, one of the easiest of the local trails, only behind the Tarundl loops at Kagan Bay. Unlike a lot of trails on Haida Gwaii, Crabapple Creek is clearly denoted with formal trailhead markers and is, therefore, easy to find.
You may access the Crabapple Creek trail in two locations: 1) The west end of 2nd Avenue at the cul-de-sac; and, 2) At the old M&B site, near the start of the road to Rennell Sound.
As with most of the Daajing Giids community trails, the topography meanders between a mix of flat ground, occasional side hills and muddy sections all while passing through beautiful forest. For us, a key highlight of this trail included the lovely views one gets off the inlet about mid-way through the hike.
Peering through the trees at the landscape below – a mix of the natural and industrial – helps to provide one with a “refreshed” perspective of this place. Indeed, you could almost say it offers a space for deep contemplation thanks to the unintentional proximity to logging as represented by the old M&B structures at the trail’s eastern terminus point.
Of course, if philosophy isn’t really your thing, you can still enjoy this lovely short trail. The trees, lush ferns, fungus and angry squirrels give it much character. Sadly, though, you won’t actually encounter any crabapple trees on this hike.
In the village’s literature, Crabapple Creek is described as a loop trail, but this is incorrect. The trail is properly described as a “point-to-point” route because the start and end points are at least a kilometre apart. Thus, one may prefer to simply go back the way you came rather than, say, exit at the M&B site and walk along the road all the way back to 2nd Avenue.
Nevertheless, we found Crabapple Creek a most enjoyable trail to hike. It’s shorter than the nearby Gore Brook, but it’s also less strenuous. In addition, the unique juxtaposition of logging with the natural world makes for some fun discussion.
The total hike time was a quick 15 minutes one-way along the marked primary route, which is denoted by white diamonds.
Please note that Crabapple Creek offers two hiking routes. If you start your trek at 2nd Avenue, you will come to a fork in the trail about a minute in. Going LEFT will take you along the formally marked and maintained route promoted by the village; however, if you choose to go RIGHT, you will be treated to a longer hike – and one that actually takes you along Crabapple Creek for much of the route.
There’s a little more in terms of elevation gain, but the lovely cascade of the creek + small waterfall make it worth the added effort. We suspect this was the original trail – you can still see the odd “red arrow” markers along the way. This route, while longer, still connects to the main trail at the “big tire.” The total hike time for this alternate hike is about 45 minutes one-way.
Be advised that the Crabapple Creek Trail connects and links with other trails in the area, including the still-being-developed Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail, Gore Brook Trail, and the informal Backyard Trail system.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 2 kilometres (return, depending on the route taken) TIME: 30 minutes to 1.5 hours (return) TYPE: Point-to-Point ELEVATION GAIN: 40 meters
The forest part f the trail boasting some moss blankets
More moss on the ground and the quiet in the forest
The trail also has some creek and shallow crossings
The Windy Bay Sitka Spruce Trail has some not-so-shy grazing wildlife
The 800 year old Sitka Spruce in all its steadfast glory
The trail can still be visible in some parts
Creek crossings
The trail path to the woods
One can see the man-made ditches along the old wagon trail
WINDY BAY SITKA SPRUCE TRAIL FEATURES: · Massive Sitka Spruce · Old Growth Forest · Culturally Modified Trees (CMTs)
ABOUT
Unlike all other hikes on our blog, this trail at Hlk’yah GawGa (Windy Bay) is the only one you’ll likely explore with a guide exactly because it’s located within the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. This fact should be viewed as a net positive because your guide will provide important historical and cultural information lacking at most other trails and beaches around Haida Gwaii. As such, while the hike is relatively short, clocking in at approximately 1.2 kilometres, the knowledge you’re gifted along the way is priceless and helps contextualize Haida Gwaii as a whole.
In order to get to Hlk’yah GawGa, you’ll have to book a tour through one of Haida Gwaii’s local touring operators or, if you’ve got the endurance and seafaring knowledge, a multi-day kayak adventure. If booking a tour, we strongly recommend Haida Style Expeditions or Moresby Explorers. Both companies have years of experience under their belts; both focus on local; and both utilize professional, seasoned guides well versed in yahguudang (respect) for this place and this space. “Leaving everywhere I visit cleaner than when I arrived.”
Once you land at Windy Bay, depending on the tide, you will begin your hike either on the eastern side of a very shallow body of water or the western side – the latter of which is where you’ll encounter the Haida Gwaii Watchmen and see the impressive Legacy Pole. For our purposes, let’s assume we’re starting on the eastern side, opposite the Watchmen’s cabin: At this point, the hike commences on a mostly flat, rocky beach that overlooks the Pacific Ocean.
The Legacy Pole
Your guide will take you into the forest towards a not-too-obvious, but the still visible, trail. The route is mostly flat, and the ground is covered with thick moss. After approximately 10 minutes, you’ll come upon a gated deer exclosure, which doesn’t do much now because the fencing is full of large holes. After another 10 minutes of walking through the forest on intermittent boardwalks, you’ll come upon this trail’s star attraction: An absolutely magnificent Sitka Spruce estimated to be 800 to 900 years old.
Chances are you’ll recognize the tree because it’s often used in advertising for Haida Gwaii. There’s a particularly famous photo out there showing a party of 8 struggling to hold hands around the massive base of this beautiful old-growth giant. The Sitka Spruce puts everything into perspective: We are truly small and insignificant in the face of nature.
Once you’re ready to leave the tree, the partial boardwalk trail takes you through lush moss and even more old-growth Sitka Spruce and red cedar trees. As you hike, your guide will likely point out several culturally modified trees (CMTs) along the way. Seeing the CMTs only helps further entrench what we’ve known all along: The Haida have been here for thousands of years.
Please note that you will have to cross Windy Bay Creek at two points: One may result in wet feet as there are no logs to use as a natural bridge; the second crossing, however, does have a suitable log bridge, but it is slippery.
After about 30 to 40 minutes of hiking, you will come upon the Haida Gwaii Watchmen’s cabin, the Legacy Pole and “Looking Around and Blinking House.” Listening to a narrative from one of the Watchmen does much to put the importance of Hlk’yah GawGa into perspective.
The Blinking House
Windy Bay was once the site of a major Haida village and, later, a summer fishing village called Hlk’yah Llnagaay (Peregrine Falcon Town). In more contemporary times, it played an essential role in the Athlii Gwaii logging protests of 1985, which led directly to the creation of Gwaii Haanas in 1993. “Looking Around and Blinking House” was built to house the Haida who stood on the line, protecting their land from logging interests at the time.
The nearby Legacy Pole, erected in 2013, was the first monumental pole raised at Gwaii Haanas in 130 years. At a surface level, it celebrates 20 years of co-management by the Haida Nation and the Government of Canada; however, at a more significant level, the pole speaks to the protection Gwaii Haanas enjoys while concomitantly highlighting the role future generations will play. Culture combines with history. The Ancients meet the Moderns.
Four Corners Trail showing the obvious old wagon road
The big sitka spruce trees dot the trail, some of them growling in the wind blow
One can see the man-made ditches along the old wagon trail
The trail logically ends on Swan Creek although one can be adventurous and cross the natural log bridge
FOUR CORNERS TRAILS • Naikoon Provincial Park • Early Settler history
ABOUT
Four Corners Trail is located immediately east of the Hiellen River Bridge in Naikoon Provincial Park. The route is a settler wagon road, established initially circa 1910, to access parcels of land further inland. To access this trail, begin at the Cape Fife Trailhead and follow that route for approximately 5 minutes.
You will come upon an information board detailing the Cape Fife route. A marker to your left will signify the continuance of the 10 km-long Cape Fife trail. If you look to your RIGHT, you will see an unmarked but obvious trail – this is the beginning of the Four Corners route.
The full length of the Four Corners Trail is approximately 5 kilometres; however, today, only the first 2.5 kilometres or so can be safely hiked. Significant blowdown and overgrowth make walking the full route – eventually connecting with the more popular White Creek Trail and Carr-Whittle routes – hazardous. The first part of the trail, however, makes for a pleasantly short hike.
The old settler wagon road is now fringed with tall trees and thick mosses, giving an almost otherworldly appearance. Some massive cedar trees line the route, their low-hanging branches reminiscent of a scene from Sleepy Hollow! As we hiked the trail, we kept an eye out for previous human habitation.
Unfortunately, besides the old wagon road, the only evidence of previous human development we saw was some old machinery near the start of Four Corners and the old drainage ditches, which were all dug with pick and spade. As you observe these scenes, it’s not difficult to imagine what life might’ve been like in the early 20th century, as settlers attempted to establish roots and carve new routes.
About mid-way along the hike-able portion of the trail, you’ll round a corner and enter an area we’ve dubbed “cedar alley” due to the significant number of large cedar trees that line this section of the route. Keep a close eye on these special trees because a few of them are CMTs – they were “culturally modified” by the Haida hundreds of years ago. It is a powerful reminder that you’re treading on ancient Haida territory.
You will eventually come upon Swan Creek, which is a tributary of the Hiellen River. Of note, in her important book, Queen Charlotte Islands Trail Hikes and Beach Walks (1978), Fern Henderson reported that the bridge over Swan Creek was “very precarious and may not be usable.” 45 years later the man-made bridge is all but gone.
As such, this is the logical end-point of the Four Corners route. We say “logical” because while it is possible to go beyond the creek using a narrow natural log bridge, this is ill-advised for those not steady on their feet!
If you wish to hike this trail, parking is available in the nearby Tow Hill parking lot. It is advisable to bring a compass and/or use an app like BRMB or AllTrails as this is an unmarked/unmaintained route that is quite overgrown.
One can go closer to the creek side with no problem
In the summer, the Piper Creek is more calmer
Some foraging delights in Piper Creek Trail
PIPER CREEK TRAIL FEATURES: · Monumental trees · Foraging
ABOUT
The Piper Creek Trail is located approximately 3 kilometres west of Sandspit, adjacent to the “Piper Creek” bridge, heading towards the Kwuna ferry line-up. There is no formal parking; however, there is enough space on the shoulder of Piper Creek Bridge for two small cars. The trailhead is indicated by a small white marker a few feet from the bridge.
While there is minor elevation gain, we would classify Piper Creek Trail as easy. The route is mostly flat and well-marked for its duration. The trail, which winds through a mix of alder, spruce and cedar, basically follows Piper Creek upstream for about a kilometre before terminating at a small ravine adjacent to the creek. The dense forest part of the trail heading to the creek access is a relaxing experience and it is encouraged to take the time to savour forest walking.
Indeed, the trail is short, but it also connects to other routes like Around the Pond and Onward Point, making for a more robust hike. The connecting trail towards Onward Point, notably, takes you through a stand of monumental cedar trees sure to delight the tree-lover in all of us.
Along with being a relatively popular hiking trail, Piper Creek is also used for local foraging. The outstanding Raincoast Breads, for example, will come here and forage, Woodruff, Oyster mushrooms and even “aromatic” stones. We’ve also witnessed some large “Chicken of the Woods” growing near the entrance of this route.
Note: There is also a short trail directly across Highway 16, opposite the Piper Creek trailhead. Just look out for blue flagging tape. This brief route, which clocks in at about 250 meters one-way, takes you to the mouth of Piper Creek, through the trees and down to the beach.
The lighting of the afternoon setting sun creates a magical forest scenery
One of the plank “bridges” on the muddy parts of the trail
The Gore Brook on the trail
20 minutes into the Gore Brook Trail, you can find this waterfall
The dense trees in the trail plays good light to relax on the trail
Winter scene in the trail
At some point in the trail, carefully placed sea shell markers can be observed
Gore Brook spilling into the Daajing Giids ocean waters
Illuminated parts of the forest
In summer, most of the trail looks “greener”
GORE BROOK TRAIL FEATURES: • Forest therapy • School project
ABOUT
The Gore Brook Trail is one of 5 “community trails” in the Village of Daajing Giids. Unlike most trails on Haida Gwaii, Gore Brook actually has formal trailhead signage and is, therefore, easy to find. It has two main entry points: The first is at the top of 8th Street (north of the high school).
Once you reach the top of 8th, turn right and you should see the trailhead marker adjacent to a small side road. The second point of entry is on the 2nd avenue (above the municipal office), along the Village’s western end.
In terms of the community trails, Gore Brook is one of the better ones. First, it brings you marvellous examples of old-growth and second-growth forests. Second, the lush flora of the trail – and especially the vibrant mosses, ferns and other plant life – really highlights the fact that you’re hiking through a dynamic rainforest ecosystem unlike any other in the world. Third, if you enter Gore Brook at the 2nd Avenue entrance, you can gain quick access to a nice little waterfall – dubbed the Gore Brook Falls – approximately 20 minutes in. Fourth, the trail also provides hints of one of Haida Gwaii’s major historic industries: Logging. At a few points along the trail, those with a keen eye will notice some evidence of springboard logging.
While the trail is only about 1.6 kilometres long, it takes roughly an hour and a half to complete the full point-to-point route. The trail is quite rough and muddy in a lot of places. Additionally, there’s a significant amount of deadfall along the trail + root systems and a couple of creek crossings. As such, we’d strongly recommend the use of good boots so as to avoid getting your feet wet or muddy.
The trail is denoted in quite a unique way: With scallop shells! Follow them and you shouldn’t get lost. It’s kind of like following the breadcrumbs through the forest. But if following scallop shells isn’t your thing, don’t worry – white “diamond” markers also denote the main route.
Finally, it should be noted that Gore Brook connects with, and intersects, the village’s informal “backyard” trail system. These are a series of rough trails that are usually sans markers and can lead you astray if you’re not paying attention.
With Gore Brook, we don’t think getting lost is much of a problem since it’s pretty easy to follow the scallop shells and white markers. If entering Gore Brook from 2nd Avenue, however, you will come upon a fork in the trail system approximately 15 minutes into your hike.
If you continue to the RIGHT, you’ll stay on Gore Brook (and eventually come upon Gore Brook Falls). If you go LEFT, you’ll follow a backyard trail – which does have markers in this case – and will eventually exit onto the cul de sac at the end of Second Avenue, connecting with both Crabapple Creek Trail and the Crab Trap Trail.
While somewhat difficult, the Gore Brook Trail is a rewarding hike. The old growth, burls, abundant ferns, dynamic creek, and vibrant green mosses provide inspiration and energy. The local high school students, who played a key role in developing this trail in the late 1990s, did an excellent job.
In the current day, students – from high school and post-secondary – will occasionally use this trail for ecosystem interpretive work. As such, Gore Brook is as much a recreational hiking trail as it is a valuable learning opportunity.
Spirit Trail can have some decent log jam along its creeks
One of the lakes in the trails loops
The jam logs make way for the water from the lakes
Beautiful shrubs and big trees dot the sides of the trails
Spirit Lake Trail boasts of Dogwood flowers in summer
The main bridges one goes on the trail
The bridges and walkways on the trail makes it a favourite to locals
One of the CMT sample along Spirit Lake Trail
Frozen Spirit Lake Trail
Aerial shot of the Spirit Lake Trail
SPIRIT LAKE TRAIL FEATURES · Culturally Modified Trees · Haida history · Interpretive hike
ABOUT
Spirit Lake Trail (GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu) is located in Skidegate, just off Highway 16 and behind the George Brown Recreation Centre – clearly marked with a carved Wasco at the trail’s head. A smaller totem also sits close to the trail’s entrance, near the pit toilet.
Popular with tourists and locals alike, this well-maintained easy hike offers the curious a portal through which to view Haida Gwaii’s natural beauty: The carpeted moss floor; the meandering creeks; beautiful cedar and spruce trees; culturally modified trees (CMTs); a plethora of eagles and woodpeckers; wild blueberries and mushrooms; the large Haida Gwaii black bear; and, of course, Spirit Lake itself. Each of these elements complements the overall setting and lends a picture of serenity.
Whether one chooses the longer forest walk or Spirit Lake loop, one cannot help but recognize and acknowledge the inherent spirituality of the trail and its namesake lake. The presence of CMTs and culturally significant plants like Devil’s Club help to reinforce the fact that the Haida have used – and continue to utilize – this area since time immemorial.
In that regard, you know that you share the trail not just with the physical bodies you encounter, but those you do not see as well. The quietness and calm of the lake have much to say if we choose to listen and attune ourselves to its message.
The trail is not physically demanding and allows you to experience some of the best that Haida Gwaii has to offer. Free walking tours by Gaajiiaawa are also available during the summer, providing a fuller picture and appreciation of the trail and its significance. Depending on the route you choose, the total time spent here ranges from 1 to 2 hours.
In 2021 and 2022, GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu underwent trail maintenance and received important Upgrades: The compacted gravel walkway was significantly redone; 20 new boardwalks were installed, replacing aging infrastructure, and recent posts for future interpretive signage were installed. One of the new boardwalks now extends out into the lake, giving hikers better and safer access to this particular body of water.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 5.3 kilometers TIME: 1 to 2 hours TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: 60 meters
The Anvil Trail goes along some parts of the Tlell River
The carefully placed board walk makes it an easier hike
The hiking trail is evident on the ground
ANVIL TRAIL FEATURES: · Log Jam · Old growth forest · Interpretive hike
ABOUT
The Anvil Trail, which is located in the Tlall Conservancy, is one of the more popular trails on Haida Gwaii and is the only maintained route originally developed by the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS). It follows a 5-kilometre interpretive route and takes you through second-growth forests, old-growth, riparian floodplains, and even some minor boggy sections.
Much of the trail follows the meandering Tlell River before re-entering the dense forest and returning you to Highway 16, approximately 100 meters from where you started your journey.
The Anvil Trail takes you through several different environments and therefore becomes a destination in itself. When we did the hike, we opted to go against the grain and started our journey approximately 100 meters south of the standard trail entrance, which is located directly across from the Mariners Point parking lot. Of course, the entrance you choose is entirely up to you as the Anvil is ultimately a big loop trail.
The initial part of the Anvil Trail – at both entrances – is a dense and cluttered forest, very reminiscent of scenes from the Blair Witch Project (1999); however, after about 30 minutes, the trail does open up to more typical re-growth and much nicer scenery. At the 40-minute mark, if you’ve started your journey via the south entrance (as we did), you will come upon signage advising you to “NOT HIKE DOWNSTREAM FROM THIS POINT.”
That’s because there are 3 separate paths in this area: The orange route, which takes you to the log jam; the blue route, which is a “shortcut” and brings you to the other side of the orange loop, back towards Highway 16; and an unsigned/unmarked trail, which follows the Tlell River for roughly 2.5km before reconnecting with the orange route.
The early portion of the unmaintained trail appears decent enough; however, it very quickly becomes overgrown and virtually impossible to follow. The lesson here? Stay on the marked and maintained route!
Not long after this potentially disorienting area, the trail gets rather grown in and dense with salal bushes and other shrubs. At times, it almost felt like we needed a weed whacker! The trail also gets very miry at this point, but recent maintenance in the form of wooden stepping blocks has made navigating this section much easier.
If you manage to power through, you’ll be rewarded with this trail’s major attraction – the log jam! It is quite a sight and extends for some 250 meters along the Tlell River.
According to the posted signage, the Great Fire of the 1840s contributed to the jam when many of the burnt and mangled trees fell into the river. There are some rough side trails here that allow you to get closer to the log jam, but we recommend viewing from up above.
From here on out, the trail loops back to Highway 16 and takes you through some lovely old-growth forest consisting of massive cedar and Sitka spruce trees.
While the hike is mostly uneventful at this point, you may still encounter a few areas where earlier storms have knocked over large trees and effectively blocked the trail, requiring some creative detours.
Once you reach the point known as the “Big Bend” (a few hours into your hike if entering from the south, or a mere 30 minutes if you began at the signed trailhead directly across from Mariners Point), you again come upon a confluence of trails.
The orange markers will take you to the log jam (or back to the Highway if you’re hiking FROM the log jam); the blue markers represent a “shortcut” to the opposite end of the Anvil Trail; and, you can also choose to walk EAST adjacent the Tlell River, along an unmarked and unmaintained trail.
This unmarked route is called the “Wiggins Road Trail” and, if you follow it for its full length – approximately 1.5km – you will eventually connect up to Wiggins Road. It’s a nice trail overall, but sections can be a little difficult to follow.
Overall, we’d say the Anvil Trail is worth the time and effort. The route is marked and the trail is nicely maintained for the most part. Furthermore, the interpretive signs throughout certainly enhance the experience and one’s appreciation of the Tlall Conservancy.
Oh, and if you’re wondering, “Why is it called Anvil Trail?” That’s because it follows a section of the Tlell River that, on the outline, resembles an anvil. How crazy is that?
Sunset Park Trail – view from the bird watching tower
The start of the Sunset Park Trail
Forest parts of the trail
The Yakoun Estuary Bird Watching Tower
SUNSET PARK TRAIL FEATURES · Evidence of early logging · Culturally Modified Trees · Bird-watching
ABOUT
The Sunset Park Trail, located along Bayview Drive, is an easy 2.7km out-and-back trail in the Village of Port Clements. The terrain is flat and basically follows the Yakoun Estuary the entire way. The track is so flat, in fact, that Port Clements even suggests it is wheelchair friendly.
The scenery along the route is quite beautiful at low tide but is, I think, a little one-note if you’re walking the trail at high tide. As you stroll about the path, there are a few strategically placed benches facing the estuary so that one can fully take in and appreciate, the vivid scenes unfolding before them. In addition, there are a couple of interpretive signs along the trail, which link to Port’s early logging history.
For us, the highlight here is the clear evidence of springboard logging. It’s an interesting callback to the golden age of logging on Haida Gwaii.
At the trail’s terminus point, you will come upon a beautiful two-storey birdwatching tower. Climb the stairs (or walk the wheelchair ramp) to receive unobstructed views of Yakoun Bay and watch the Herons and Eagles frolic and play. On a clear day, it’s quite easy for one to get “lost” up here.
Once you’ve finished your Sunset Park Trail adventure, walk back the way you came or take one of the many exits out onto the main road for a more urban hike.
As far as trails on Haida Gwaii go, this one is definitely the easiest in terms of difficulty (well, this one and the Government Dock “trails”). In that respect, seasoned hikers – or even newbies – may find it a little underwhelming; however, there is no denying that it’s suitable for the whole family.
The birding tower is a lot of fun and we enjoyed the references to logging’s glory years. We should note, by way of conclusion, that the Sunset Park Trail had an extension developed in 2016, which adds just over the original trail described above. The extension begins at the Sunset Park Trail parking lot, just off Bayview Drive.
Once you park your vehicle, follow the well-manicured path to the right (besides a newly installed pit toilet). After about a minute or two, you must cross the road to continue the trail. The extension then follows alongside Bayview Drive for approximately 300 meters before going up a slight incline and snaking behind Yakoun, Tingley and Park Streets.
At this point, you almost feel as if you’re trespassing because you come into such close proximity to private homes. The trail eventually passes by Port Clements’ Community Park (home to annual Canada Day celebrations) and follows Falcon Street before ducking into a wooded area and emerging at Bayview Drive, across from the Port Clements Museum.
Like the “original” Sunset Park Trail, the extension is also wheelchair friendly; however, in our view, the extension lacks the appeal of the original trail. It is far more urban and was developed more for locals as a quick way to navigate the community. As such, we’d recommend sticking to the “original” route.
The mossy forest and trees makes it a relaxing hike in White Creek Trail
Bog parts of the White Creek Trail
Harelda Lakes after the White Creek Trail
Bogs in bird’s eye view
WHITE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES – Bog environment – Settler remnants
ABOUT
Situated within Naikoon Provincial Park, White Creek Trail is a relatively flat 3.5-kilometre out-and-back trail. The trail, which is an early 20th-century settler wagon road, begins on the west side of White Creek, near the bridge. You’ll see a small sign – the trailhead marker – indicating that the route is not maintained.
Despite this, it’s clear the trail is “user maintained” because it was clear and easy to navigate for the duration of our hike. The first kilometre of the hike takes you through a beautiful second-growth forest, carpeted with thick green moss, along an unmistakable wagon road.
As you walk this section it’s not difficult to imagine the old settlers, in their horse and buggy, trudging along to their homesteads. In the current day, besides the obvious road, the hand-dug ditches and corduroy bridges are all that remain of this pioneering era along White Creek.
After about 30 minutes or so, you’ll emerge from the brush into what Go Haida Gwaii has described as “Haida Gwaii’s Serengeti.” The unique bog ecosystem – with its small ponds, grassland, and twisted and stunted pines – is certainly reminiscent of the African Savannah! As you hike this section of the White Creek Trail, you’ll notice several small side trails, all of which provide access to the bog.
We’d recommend taking your time here to explore but do tread gently. Depending on the time of year you visit, it’s possible to observe Shooting Stars, Labrador Tea, Sundews, and a host of other plants endemic to this environment. Who knows, you might even hear the frat boy-like calls of male grouse in the distance!
The bog section of White Creek Trail runs for about 2.5 kilometres before you come upon the “trail ends” signage. If you’re wearing good boots, it is possible to cross Kliki Damen Creek and continue some 19 kilometres, past the Harelda Lakes, all the way to East Beach along what eventually becomes the Carr-Whittle Trail. If you do this, though, please note that the route is not marked or maintained.
While there are other trails on Haida Gwaii offering access to bog environments (Nadu Homestead and Regier Lake, for example), White Creek is the most popular and, we’d suggest, photogenic.
If you visit, take your time here. The mystical and magical effect of forest and bog still occupies and entices the mind!
While there are a number of nice waterfalls on Haida Gwaii, most are either extremely remote and/or require a bit of effort to get to – some are some exceptions like the 5-Mile Marker Waterfall Trail. Then there are a select few that are relatively easy to access – even with a standard vehicle.
To access this small waterfall, simply drive approximately five kilometres along the QC Mainline. As you approach the “5 Mile Marker,” you should see the cascade to your RIGHT just off the side of the road. Once here, you can admire it from the safety of your vehicle or pull off the road as much as possible and then walk down to the waterfall.
If the road maintenance is decent, any SUV or standard car can be able to drive the stretch without no issues. Since it is a logging road, caution is always good on days logging trucks are actively using the QC Mainline roads.
Someone has marked the small creek with tape – no doubt to signify this lovely attraction! Once we’d meandered down to the base of these minor falls, we couldn’t help but be drawn into it – raw and beautiful nature at its best. We stood and admired the falls for several minutes; the rushing water relaxing against the pitter-patter of falling rain.
We should end this entry by offering a couple of important notes: 1) This waterfall, like most small waterfalls on Haida Gwaii, is best viewed either during or after significant rainfall. Viewing the falls during the dry season will likely yield disappointment. 2) Always remember that you are driving on active logging roads. If you don’t have a VHF radio to call out your position, give plenty of space and use caution while driving.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: N/A TIME: However long you want 😉 TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
The corduroy walkways are still visible in most parts of the trail
The Fall walk in the North Road launches a strew of generous patches of mushrooms (Oct 2022)
The wagon road that leads to the Inside Road, Pretty John’s, and Pontoons Meadow trails
Afternoon hikes also is welcome on a dry day to see the logs walkway
This mighty tree deafall points one to the Poontons Meadow Trail
POONTOONS TRAIL FEATURES · Early settler history · Pontoons Meadow · Foraging and hunting
ABOUT
Unlike most trails on Haida Gwaii, the Pontoons Trail actually has a signed trailhead marker. Unfortunately, the trail can still be a little tricky to find, if only because there isn’t much-published information available.
If you pick up the Backroad Mapbook at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre or download the app, you should have an idea of where the trailhead is. Nevertheless, we’ll endeavour to make finding this unique and epic hike a little easier to find:
Assuming you’re coming from Skidegate, drive roughly 17 kilometres along Highway 16 until you come upon the intersection of Lawn Hill Road. Turn left onto Lawn Hill Road.
Drive down Lawn Hill Road until you cross Lawn Creek Bridge. From here, and directly ahead, you’ll see a joke sign: “Violators will be prostituted.” This rather humorous sign indicates a private property; however, to your LEFT you will see a small yellow sign posted on an alder tree: “OLD WAGON ROAD.” This sign essentially signifies the start of your hiking adventure, but it is not the trailhead.
If you have a truck, it is possible to drive approximately 1 kilometre up this old road but, if you don’t, then we strongly recommend hiking it. There is some minor incline and fairly deep potholes along the way.
After you’ve walked or driven the 1 kilometre, you will see some blue and pink flagging tape to your RIGHT and a small footbridge. Cross this bridge onto a wide, but not the too obvious path. You should see the trailhead marker for the “Pontoons Wilderness and Historic Interpretive Route” straight ahead (and the trailhead marker for the Prettyjohn’s Trail route to your left).
From the trailhead sign, continue walking north. You are now en route to the Pontoons! It’s little wonder most people have difficulty finding this route or are completely ignorant as to its existence. In the current day, the trailhead isn’t exactly easy to find unless you already know where it is.
Difficulty in locating the trail aside, what makes this route a “must do” when visiting Haida Gwaii? In brief, you’ll want to hike this wild and remote route because it’s an immersive experience.
The full Pontoons trail is approximately 9 kilometres one way. Along the route, you get to experience settler and natural history; Haida culture; envelop yourself in outstanding examples of old-growth Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Red Cedar, and Riparian forest; and, of course, explore the unique fen and marsh complex that makes up the Pontoons.
Because the Pontoons hike is so rich, we will divide it into three manageable “chunks.” Two of the three “chunks” can be completed individually, as separate hikes in their own right: 1) The North Road; 2) Durant Homestead; and, 3) The Pontoons Meadow.
The North Road Trail
Walking the North Road Trail on foggy days makes it a magical and must-repeat experience (Oct 2022)
Once you reach the Pontoons trailhead marker noted above, you’ll officially be on the North Road which, as the name suggests, basically runs north for about 4 kilometers before turning west (or LEFT, if you prefer that term) towards the Pontoons Meadow.
This section of the hike is an old wagon road developed in 1910 as part of a government strategy to encourage settlement in the area. The land was sold for cheap, but living here wasn’t easy.
Much of the designated farming land was originally muskeg and therefore incredibly low in nutrients. A lot of hard work went into making the land arable; however, because of the challenges faced, most settlers were gone by the early 1930s.
In the early 1900s, this route had a lot of small homestead cabins dotting the road, but most of these were abandoned by the end of the First World War. Unfortunately, not many remains of ye olde pioneering spirit today.
There is, of course, the old wagon road itself and, as you hike, you will see and cross some corduroy bridge structures. Besides that, the only other notable evidence of past settlement along this section of the Pontoons trail is the hand-dug drainage ditches, which run along large segments of the North Road.
While the North Road is pleasant to hike at any time of the year, we’ve found it to be especially magical during autumn. As you walk the moss-covered road, its surface comes to life with all sorts of unique fungi, including chanterelles and honeys. It’s a proverbial mushroom picker’s delight.
And the old road, with its towering trees and dense fog, creates an almost magical, otherworldly environment. Indeed, for us, this segment of the Pontoons is the very definition of forest therapy.
After hiking approximately 3 kilometres, you will come upon an active logging road. It is called “Lawn Hill Road North” and is fairly recent, only having been built in the last 15 years. Prior to its construction, the North Road travelled uninterrupted for just over 4 kilometres. This “break” in the trail represents the second “chunk” of the route: The Durant Homestead.
The Durant Homestead
The rhododendrons in Durant Homestead framed one of the well-built cabins
After crossing the logging road, continue north for approximately 1.5 kilometres towards – you guessed it – the Durant Homestead. While part of the North Road, the Village of Daajing Giids has this segment of the old wagon road listed as a separate trail on its Visitor Centre website. Indeed, while we find this kind of odd, it is nevertheless possible to access the “Durant Homestead Trail” by itself.
Unfortunately, the Visitor Centre is wonderfully vague in this regard: “Access old corduroy road [. . .] from 6.5 k on Lawn Hill Road North.” If driving from Skidegate, drive north for approximately 22 kilometres until you see the crudely written “LAWN NORTH MAIN” sign to your left.
When you turn onto this dirt road, be aware that you’re driving on an active logging road, so take the necessary precautions. The road is in decent enough shape that an SUV could probably drive it, but you might “bottom out” on the steep incline near the beginning of the road.
After the initial hill, though, the road remains relatively flat. Drive along Lawn North for 10 minutes, or approximately 5.3 kilometres (the Village of Daajing Giids says 6.5 kilometres, but this is wrong). At this point, you should see the fancy trailhead marker for the Durant Homestead Trail: A stump with some rocks piled on top of it!
From here, the Durant Homestead is approximately 40 minutes, or 1.5 kilometres, down the North Road. While the first part of this trail is quite miry, the rest of it remains in relatively good shape.
There are some muddy sections; parts of the corduroy road are slippery and loose; and, there is some deadfall requiring you to get down on your knees but, for the most part, the trail is easy to navigate and follow.
As you amble about this route, it’s not difficult to transport oneself to an earlier time, circa 1910, when homesteaders were trying to cultivate and develop this land.
About mid-way through your hike, you’ll come upon a sign: “The Great Fire of the 1840s.” Without a bit of context, this might seem rather queer. 20 years ago, the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS) undertook a project of developing/maintain a number of trails in the Tlell Watershed area.
The purpose was essentially twofold: 1) Create awareness of, and protect and conserve the watershed; and, 2) Provide an opportunity for people to experience this unique wilderness through interpretive hiking trails. Signage like “The Great Fire” was posted at strategic points along TWS trails and was originally meant to be accompanied by a short booklet.
Unfortunately, a lack of funds resulted in nearly zero formal upkeep and a good number of these trails – especially Three Mile Creek, Monique Creek and Old Growth Alley – fell into rapid disuse. While some interpretive signage has survived, most have fallen to the elements.
If you’ve kept a keen eye throughout your hike, chances are you will have noticed a number of burnt trees – these are all a result of the “Great Fire of the 1840s.” The cause of the fire remains unknown, but it burned a massive amount of forest from the upper Tlell all the way to Masset.
You will also see evidence of this fire on other trails in the Tlell area: Prettyjohn’s, Old Growth Alley and the Anvil Trail. After walking about 40 minutes from the Durant trailhead, you’ll come upon a large fallen Sitka spruce tree. If you look beyond it, you’ll see signage for the Pontoons – this represents the third “chunk” of our hike. But more on that in a moment.
If you intend to visit the Durant Homestead, look to the immediate left of the fallen tree. You’ll spy a small wooden bridge – follow it a few minutes to the homestead.
As you can see, these structures are modern and still occasionally used by hunters today. Besides the well-constructed cabin, you’ll also see an old outhouse, garden, sauna, and what appears to be a chicken coup on site.
During spring and early summer, the rhododendron bushes are in bloom and make for an impressive site. Before you leave, be sure to sign the guestbook in the cabin!
The Pontoons Meadow
The crude wooden sign points you to the right direction of the Pontoons Trail
The Pontoons are approximately 3 kilometres, or 1.5 hours, beyond the Durant Homestead. From this point, the old wagon road becomes less evident, but still easy to follow thanks to flagging tape.
After navigating some wet/boggy areas, you will finally reach the Tlell River and Pontoons at the 8.8-kilometre mark. Welcome to the Pontoons Meadow!
The Pontoons, often referred to as the “Heart of the Tlell,” make up the majority of the Tlall Heritage Site/Conservancy. Because it is Haida Gwaii’s only interior wetland ecosystem, numerous moves have been made to protect it, including a failed attempt in the 1980s. In 1996, Survey Creek (a tributary of the Tlell River) and the Pontoons were identified by the Province as “Goal 2 Study Areas” under the Protected Areas Strategy due to their “unique” characteristics.
In 2008, the area was formally protected with the signing of the Haida Gwaii Strategic Land Use Agreement, which stated that protected areas – like the Pontoons – are to be set aside for cultural, spiritual, ecological and recreational purposes. They are also to be maintained for the education and enjoyment of future generations.
After such a lengthy and, at times, challenging hike, the views presented by the Pontoons are a breath of fresh air. Mostly flat and relatively shallow, the Pontoons Meadow is home to a unique wetland environment on Haida Gwaii: Bogs, Fens and Marshes all call this 690-hectare space home. Viewed from above, you can observe all tributaries of the Tlell – less Geikie Creek – converging at the Pontoons.
As a result, the ground is rich in nutrients, contributing to the diverse flora of the area. It is also what attracts the island’s local elk population, introduced in 1929, to the area.
Besides the beautiful natural environment, there’s also a bit of history – or folklore – attached to the Pontoons. Allegedly there was once a & quote “floating barn” on the Pontoons, built for storing hay.
As the story goes, farmers producing cattle allowed their herd to enjoy the grounds in summer; however, because the Pontoons often flood during the winter months, a “floating barn” was created so that, when the Tlell floods its banks, the barn and its cargo of precious hay would simply float up with the swelling river.
The existence of this barn hasn’t been verified, but a structure – possibly the fabled barn – can be found at about the 9.1-kilometre mark.
All in all, the Pontoons Trail is an epic hike on a number of fronts. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can choose to tackle it in one 18-kilometre round-trip swoop, or just walk segments of the route (North Road and Durant).
No matter what you decide, you’ll enjoy old growth and second growth forest; settler history in the form of the wagon road and its associated structures; gain an appreciation of Haida cultural values; and, of course, totally immerse yourself in the beating heart of the Tlell River.
The old rotting dock on the beach part of the Evans Homestead Trail
The manually man made centennial stone breakwater
One of the lovely 100+ year old Rhododendron trees
This is one of the remaining walls of the homestead cabin
Evans Homestead Trail Features · Settler history and structures · 100+-year-old Rhododendrons · Access to Kamdis Conservancy
ABOUT
Located within the 2,722-hectare Kamdis Heritage Site/Conservancy, the “Evans Homestead” Trail was first brought to our attention via a series of old photos taken in 1957 by Terry Annis, and posted by Go Haida Gwaii.
The ruins of the homestead, and the promise of massive rhododendrons, were most enticing. Unfortunately, directions towards this unmarked and unmaintained route are sparse.
Nevertheless, while the trail lacks formal upkeep and trail markers, it is still easy to locate and follow with a bit of effort. How do I get to the trailhead? You will find the Evans Homestead trailhead approximately 19 kilometres north of Port Clements, at the end of Nadu Road. Once you arrive at the terminus of Nadu Road, park your vehicle.
You will see two roads side-by-side. The one on the right, which looks to be built on large segments of clay, is used by the Mennonites and is private. You want the overgrown road beside it. This old skid road, once used for logging, represents the official start and trailhead of the “Evans Homestead” hike.
Follow the old skid road for approximately 1 kilometre. After hiking for about 15 minutes, you’ll have to use a natural log bridge to cross the Nadu River on your LEFT. It is important to keep a watchful eye for the crossing because the trail actually continues on past it to the mouth of Nadu River and Masset Inlet. On the plus side, if you do miss the turn-off and hike to the river’s mouth (as we did), you’ll be treated to a unique-looking old-growth cedar tree!
After crossing the log bridge, follow the trail out towards Masset Inlet. It’s clear someone uses this area as an access point because, when we hiked the route, a small table was set up near a skiff. Perhaps the boat is used to access nearby Kumdis Island?
Anyway, it’s at this point you’ll observe the first major piece of colonial history: An old rotting dock which, because of the moss and small trees growing on it, has become quite photogenic. At one point, from this dock, you could walk approximately 1.6 kilometres up an old road towards the remains of a peat moss plant (opened in 1967, after Bering Industries spent $1 million building it, it closed barely a year later).
Unfortunately, when we visited in June 2021, this part of the trail was marked as “closed” – probably due to the extreme overgrowth and lack of upkeep.
From the old dock, walk south along the beach and shoreline for 20 minutes and you’ll eventually come upon the ancient stone breakwater. After 110+ years, only a tiny portion has collapsed, speaking volumes as to the skill, care and craftsmanship that went into building structures at this site.
Finding the actual homestead site proved to be a little tricky, though. We knew the short trail up to the Evans Homestead was near the breakwater, but couldn’t pinpoint where exactly. We ambled around the breakwater for a good hour and a half pondering our next steps.
One of our team members eventually decided to explore the hillside behind the breakwater. He returned after 15 minutes and reported that it was “nice and flat” up there but “just turned into a big swamp.”
His wife made her way up the steep and muddy embankment and discovered: The “big swamp” was what we were looking for! Thus, we scrambled up the muddy embankment!
As it turns out, the flat, slightly swampy area is the Evans Homestead: Here you will observe 100+-year-old rhododendron trees and remnants of the homestead originally built in 1911 by Edward Evans. From a historical perspective, the site is a real treat to visit and gives you a small taste of what early pioneering life must’ve been like.
While not many remain, the effort left behind impressive stonemasonry and beautiful rhododendrons. If you’d like to see the rhododendron trees in bloom, we’d recommend visiting this area in June or July.
Note: The beach section of this hike MUST be completed on a low or receding tide, so be sure to check the tide tables if you wish to reach the homestead.
The bog area is a bit challenging on foot – some areas are quite deep!
The old wagon road to Nadu Homestead Trail boasts of man-made trench on the sides
The cordoroy board walk can still be visible in some parts
The Nadu bridge that takes you on the other side
NADU HOMESTEAD TRAIL FEATURES · Bog environment · Settler remnants · Harvesting
ABOUT
We first became aware of the Nadu Homestead Trail thanks to “Backroad Mapbooks” (physical maps available at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre). Really, if BRMB didn’t indicate the location of trails on Haida Gwaii we’d probably miss most of them because a good number don’t have any official signed trailheads. Of course, even with the guide, some trails can be a bit tricky to locate.
The trail is a case in point. When we learned of this route, I recall thinking, “huh? We’ve driven by Nadu Road and don’t recall seeing a trail just off the highway!”
The Nadu Homestead Trail – an old settler wagon road – is located approximately 20 kilometres east of Port Clements, heading towards Masset. Once you see the intersection for Nadu Road, you’ll know you’re in the right place – the trail is direct across the highway.
Unfortunately, there’s no real parking available; so, if you wish to hike the trail, we’d recommend parking on the side of Nadu Road and then walking across Highway 16 to the trail. There is no formal trailhead marker, but you should be able to see the trail partially obstructed by thick salal.
Once you push your way through the thick salal bushes, the trail opens up into a visible wagon road. From here on out, the trail stretches just over 2 kilometres one-way and takes you through a unique bog environment and some old-growth corridors. Navigating the bog can be a bit delicate and very wet, so make sure you have waterproof footwear and be mindful of where you tread so as not to disturb the flora endemic to the area.
As we hiked the route, it became readily apparent that the trail is scarcely used anymore. There’s little in the way of markers along the trail; however, this shouldn’t dissuade potential hikers. The route is literally a straight line, so it’s difficult to get lost. Just make sure you don’t stray from the trail because parts are extremely overgrown and one could get easily disoriented.
The Nadu Homestead Trail essentially comes to an end at an old dilapidated bridge. While it is possible to cross using some creative techniques, we don’t feel it’s worth the effort (and risk) because the route ends a few minutes later, anyway, at what was likely the Hendersen homestead.
Why would one wish to hike this trail? Well, there’s the historical aspect: it’s an old settler wagon road, built circa 1910, to access parcels of land further inland. As such, you can see remnants of this early effort to “develop” Haida Gwaii: The clear evidence of the wagon road itself; the hand-dug ditches along the wagon road; old corduroy bridges (especially at the bog); and, vestiges of settler homesteads.
Indeed, it’s not difficult to use one’s imagination and transport yourself back to the early 20th century and picture ye olde horse and buggy ambling about these old roads!
Beyond history, the Nadu Homestead Trail also offers an opportunity to explore and experience unique flora: Labrador Tea, Cow Berry, bog rosemary, cloudberry, and fairly slippers, amongst a whole host of others, call this area home.
Pretty John’s Trail boast of pristine forest parts
The “Old Wagon Road” trail head
One of the many cordoroy bridges in the muddy parts of the trail
The Great Fire of the 1840s
Some parts have endless moss covering the both sides of the path
The Pretty John’s Meadow which is pointed as the main camping ground by hidden signage
Near the beginnings of Tlell River that leads to the Tlell Falls
PRETTY JOHN’S TRAIL FEATURES · Early Settler history · The Great Fire of 1940s · Tlell Falls
ABOUT
Like many trails on Haida Gwaii, it can be challenging to locate Prettyjohn’s trailhead thanks to the nebulous and sparse literature out there. We shall endeavour to make finding this special trail a little easier:
If travelling north from Skidegate, drive roughly 17 kilometres along Highway 16 until you come upon the intersection to Lawn Hill Road. Turn LEFT onto Lawn Hill Road. Drive down Lawn Hill Road until you cross Lawn Creek Bridge. From here, and directly ahead, you’ll see a rather humorous sign: “Violators will be prostituted.”
This sign indicates private property; however, to your LEFT you’ll see a small yellow signposted to an alder tree: “OLD WAGON ROAD.” This sign signifies the start of your hiking adventure, but it is not the trailhead. Park your vehicle on the side of the road and prepare for your hike!
Begin hiking up this road. At about the 1-kilometre mark, you should see some pink and blue flagging tape to your RIGHT and a small footbridge. This is the start of the North Road and “Pontoons Wilderness Historic Interpretive Route.” If you cross the bridge and walk a few meters, you should also see a trailhead marker for Prettyjohn’s interpretive route to your LEFT.
While this side road is technically the start of the Prettyjohn’s hike, it has fallen into disuse over the last 20 years. Now, the standard practice is to IGNORE the aforementioned pink and blue flagging tape and CONTINUE walking west an additional 500 meters past some dilapidated Vehicles.
After hiking 1.5 kilometres, you will come upon another small footbridge. Cross the bridge and walk up a small hill. You will come upon an intersection in the settler wagon road. While it may be tempting to go left, you’ll actually want to go RIGHT (note the well-worn ATV tracks).
You are now on the Inside Road and on your way to Prettyjohn’s Meadow and the Tlell Falls! Follow the blue arrows for approximately 7.4 kilometres to reach the historic meadow.
“But,” you may be wondering, “why Prettyjohn’s?” Indeed, the name is kind of baffling, but the route is named after William Prettyjohn, one of the first British settlers to build in the area circa 1910.
According to the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS), he was a short, bowlegged man who wore thick glasses. Nevertheless, he exemplified the optimism of early pioneers, working his land on the banks of the upper Tlell River and producing many crops of delicious fresh fruits and vegetables.
He is purported to have walked the 12 miles from his homestead to Skidegate and Daajing Giids to sell his wares and then walk all the way back home almost daily. He was one of the last pioneers to depart the area, leaving in the early 1930s.
Today, the only evidence remaining of Prettyjohn’s homestead is the meadow, which is now promoted as an ideal remote camping spot – a special place to spend the night!
We should note, as an important aside, that there’s some debate about the name “Prettyjohn.” Some, like the Over the Hill Hikers Group and locals in Tlell, have suggested “Prettyjohn” is a misspelling of “Pettyjohn.”
We wouldn’t be surprised if this were the case – it’s happened before with the Pesuta Shipwreck trail. Regardless, it would appear “Prettyjohn” is the name that’s won out since it is recorded as such by the Tlell Watershed Society and Haida Nation. What do you think? 😉
As you hike the old settler road, you will come across signage like “The Inside Road,” “The Great Fire of the 1840s” and “Settlers in the Lawn Hill Area,” amongst a few others. These signs are remnants of the Tlell Watershed Society’s interpretive trails project of the early 2000s.
Back then, the TWS sought to maintain or develop important routes within the Tlell watershed and bring awareness to this rich and diverse ecosystem. One way to do that, they thought, was through wilderness interpretive hikes, of which Prettyjohn’s is one.
Signage was placed at strategic points along the trail and was to be accompanied by short booklets – which were available at Visitor Centres across the Island – to provide an explanation. Unfortunately, a lack of funding prevented regular upkeep and most of the trails fell into disuse.
The first part of this wilderness hike takes you along the Inside Road. This old road was constructed at the beginning of the 20th century by settlers hoping to develop farmland for crops away from the coast.
In order to make access to inland portions of the Tlell easier, they created this loop road: One end begins at Lawn Hill and the other near Miller Creek. The full Inside Road is approximately 15 kilometres in length, but the Prettyjohn’s route only takes you through the first 5 kilometres or so near Lawn Hill.
Today, when you hike the Inside Road/Prettyjohn’s route, not much of the pioneering history remains other than the wagon road, some ditching, corduroy bridges and a few fence posts. Still, the road remains in relatively good shape because it is still used by the hiking community and hunters (with the latter’s ATV tracks being very evident). It’s not difficult to imagine William Prettyjohn walking these roads to sell his fruits and vegetables.
As you make your way ever closer to Prettyjohn’s Meadow, you’ll likely notice many burned and charred trees along the way. These are the result of the “Great Fire” of the 1840s, which burned most of the upper Tlell all the way to Masset.
The cause of this fire is still hotly debated, but its effects can still be seen today, some 180 years after the fact. Indeed, the fire helps explain why the trees in this area of the Tlell are all roughly the same size – they started growing at the same time!
Approximately 30 minutes out from the Meadow, the settler wagon road splits. Pay close attention to where you’re going and be sure to follow the blue arrows! You’ll want to turn WEST to continue along Prettyjohn’s route. If you continued going SOUTH, you’d eventually make your way to Drain Lake and Miller Creek. Indeed, following the marked route on these wilderness routes is essential.
A hiker and his dog did get lost on this very trail in 2018. The ending was a happy one, but he had to spend the night in the bush!
Once you reach the meadow, take a lunch break and enjoy the quiet serenity! If you’ve still got enough energy to visit the majestic Tlell Falls, you must hike approximately 800 meters upstream from the meadow. If water levels are low enough, just follow the Tlell River and you’ll eventually come upon the Falls.
If necessary, you can also get to the Falls by hiking along some steep side hill that someone has flagged with tape. Be advised that this portion of the hike requires waterproof footwear and steady feet.
The Tlell Falls is a sight to see but, if we’re being honest, there are much nicer waterfalls on Haida Gwaii that aren’t quite as work-intensive: The Dover Falls and Blackwater Creek Falls, for example.
Overall, the Prettyjohn’s and Tlell Falls Historic Interpretive Route is a beautiful day hike. You get to observe pioneering history, second & old growth forest, and the idyllic Falls. Who knows, if you’re lucky, you might also encounter some of Haida Gwaii’s resident elk since they do like to visit this part of the Tlell.
Note: We would only recommend doing this hike during the summer months. From late September through late May, heavy rains could make some parts of this trail difficult, if not impossible to pass!
We’re speaking from personal experience here: We hiked the route once in late September – the start of the rainy season – and the trail was muddy and slippery most of the way. Once we arrived at the Meadow, it was so flooded it made any attempt at getting towards the Tlell Falls next impossible.
The still existing head trail sign of the Onward Point Trail (May 2020)
The steps that leads to the gazebo (Jan 2023)
Onward Point gazebo on a sunset (Jan 2023)
The forest greets your hike (May 2020)
Onward Point is a place to watch the fiery sunsets (Jan 2023)
ONWARD POINT TRAIL KEY FEATURES · Whale-viewing · Beach access · Gazebo
Located on Moresby Island, and approximately 10 minutes from the Kwuna ferry landing, the Onward Point Trail represents a leisurely, brief hike – just over 5 minutes one-way – to a beautiful cedar gazebo.
While at the gazebo, gaze out towards Skidegate Inlet and view the mighty seagulls as they dive for food; the abundant seals as they float about and cause mischief; and the graceful eagles as they soar overhead. If you’re lucky, you may even spy a grey whale or an orca in springtime.
After spending some time admiring the flora, continue along the loop back toward your vehicle.
Indeed, the Onward Point Trail is pretty straightforward. Once you reach the trailhead, you’ll observe signage identifying the route as “moderate difficulty.”
We think this is only partly true. As you begin your hike, you’ll immediately notice that the trail splits into a Y (the loop). We recommend going counterclockwise – to the right – as it’s the easier route. There is some deadfall along the way, but the trail is relatively flat and takes you through some nice spruce, ferns and cedar trees.
If you continue along the loop, from the gazebo, the trail does increase in difficulty but only because the earth is soft in some areas. If you wish to avoid this, simply go back to the way you came.
The Onward Point Trail is a nice break from modernity and offers a serene moment for reflection, thanks to the gazebo and the presence of fairy slippers in spring. If you wish to explore the rocky beach below, there is an informal trail leading down to the beach from the gazebo; however, use caution because the rocks below are often slippery.
Please note the Onward Point Trail does connect with the “Around the Pond” trail extension. If hiking the Onward Point loop counterclockwise, you’ll see the trail to your right about a minute or two into your hike.
Tow Hill and the beginnings of Agate Beach (Jan 2023)
Tow Hill and Blow Hole trails (Apr 2022)
Blow Hole wave drama effects (Apr 2022)
The boardwalk in Tow Hill makes it a manageable accent to the cliffs (Jan 2023)
Surfer’s dream waves up North (Jan 2023)
TRAIL FEATURES Haida legend Basalt rock formations Unobstructed views
ABOUT
Probably the most quintessential and well-known of Naikoon Provincial Park’s attractions, the Tow Hill and Blow Hole Trails hiking routes are easy and family-friendly, thanks to boardwalks that go their entire length. At the trailhead, which is approximately 26 kilometres east of Masset, you’ll be greeted by two small Haida totems, both of whom sit on either side of a large infographic. This interpretive panel helps set the context for the hike you’re about to embark on.
It enunciates important cultural, historic and environmental information. Notably, and keeping in line with the “accessible” theme, the information board includes colour contrasts and braille. The images can also be “read” with your fingertips.
From the trailhead, hike a little over 200 meters along the wide, hard-packed dirt path. Along the way, you’ll come upon another important feature: A four-track solar-panelled talking sign: Hear a traditional Haida welcome, a Haida song, and the legend of the “Big Spider.”
Indeed, this network of trails – perhaps more than any other on Haida Gwaii – does much to entrench you in this space and this place; that is, Haida territory.
Once you hit the beautifully constructed boardwalk – a partnership between Parks and Old Massett Village Council – you have two options: A hike up to the Tow Hill viewing area (just over 900 meters) or a hike towards the beach and blow hole (just over 700 meters). Each trail, from this point, takes approximately 30 minutes and 15 minutes, respectively.
Tow Hill Trail
Steeped in Haida lore, Tow Hill, or Taaw Tldáaw, is a magnificent volcanic plug formed from eruptions of molten lava some 2 million years ago. Jutting out of the ocean, it is, unquestionably, the most distinguishing geographic feature of Naikoon Provincial Park. Standing at nearby Agate Beach, or North Beach, it dwarfs you with its size; in fact, you can even see it off in the distance while hiking White Creek or enjoying the epic Tl’ellan to Old Massett beach route. Because of its prominence in literature and advertising, Taaw Tldáaw is an iconic image and is synonymous with Haida Gwaii.
Besides its awe-inspiring natural beauty, and deep connection to Haida lore, Taaw Tldáaw and the surrounding area also make for some of Haida Gwaii’s best hiking. Once you reach the boardwalk, go LEFT to continue hiking toward Tow Hill’s zenith.
As noted, the hike is easy, but the incline does increase the higher you go. Along the way, you’ll cross over some minor boggy sections and luxuriantly green moss-covered trees. Take your time to fully appreciate the natural and supernatural beauty of Haida Gwaii as it surrounds and enchants you with its lush rainforest, light mist and heavy cultural traditions.
At about the mid-way point, you come upon the first viewing platform. From here, you can look out onto North Beach, towards Rose Spit – another place steeped in Haida tradition. Once you reach the summit of Taaw Tldáaw, take a moment to breathe in the fresh sea air. From your perch, some 125 meters high, you can see Agate Beach below; the expanses of Naikoon Provincial Park; Dixon Entrance; and, on a clear day, even the shores of Alaska.
Be warned, though, that it is generally quite windy at the top of Tow Hill – something clearly in evidence by the wind-swept trees just outside the viewing platform! Once you’ve had your fill, descend the trail until you come upon a connector to the Blow Hole.
Blow Hole Trail
For our purposes, let’s assume you’re starting your hike from the Tow Hill/Blow Hole trailhead. Again, walk about 200 meters alongside the Hiellen River to the boardwalk. This time, go RIGHT towards the Blowhole. The hike is short – about 15 minutes – and provides some nice ground-level views of the Hiellen River, Christian White’s monumental pole, and North Beach. Lush mosses and a fairly dense forest greets you opposite Oceanside.
Once you reach the end of the short Blow Hole Trail, you’ll find detailed information boards on the origins of “Tow” and how he separated from his brother “Towustain.” The Haida history we’re privy to at this site – combined with nearby Rose Spit and Hiellen – enriches the overall experience and improves our appreciation of this mystical place. In this regard, Tow Hill and the surrounding area are a definite “must-visit” on Haida Gwaii.
Descending the stairs from the boardwalk, you’re treated to a magical space: A coastline covered in lava rock formations, imposing rock cliffs and intense wave action, battering the shoreline. On a rising tide, you will see the “blow hole” in action – a truly special sight! A word of caution: We advise that you steer clear of the rock’s edge on stormy days. The waves are larger and stronger and it is not uncommon for the odd rogue wave to hit this area.
The Wiggins Road Trail takes you along the Tlell River banks with scenic forest views
The moss covered trees along the river makes it so relaxing (Jan 2021)
The mossy banks of the Tllel River makes it an interesting hike (Jan 2021)
The “official” head trail (May 2021)
Wiggins Road Trail Features Popular fishing access Access to Tlall Conservancy
ABOUT
A note of caution: One should avoid hiking this trail after heavy rainfall. Sometimes the banks of the Tlell River will overflow, flooding sections of the trail and making them virtually impassable.
The Wiggins Road trail is an unmaintained 1.5km out-and-back route that follows the Tlell River south along the river’s bank. While the trail is unmarked, it’s still relatively easy to follow until you begin entering the Tlall Conservancy area. At this point, the rough trail gets harder to make out and, at times, feels more like a trudge through the forest. Still, the hike has its rewards: At numerous points throughout, one can marvel at the Sitka spruce before them, the lush mosses, and the mighty Tlell.
While the trail can be used for a recreational hike, its primary purpose is to provide access to the Tlell River for steelhead fishing. It is not uncommon to see locals along the banks reeling in their catch in late Summer or early Fall. Further to this, the trail does provide numerous side paths to the river for fishing purposes.
From a hiking perspective, Wiggins Road trail can be classified as an easy to moderate hike, depending upon one’s fitness level. Much of the trail is flat, though there are some significant areas of mud, roots and deadfall. In addition, the Wiggins Road trail does provide an opportunity for a much grander adventure:
If you do hike the 1.5km (one-way) from the trailhead, you will eventually connect to the far more popular Anvil Trail, which is a 5km loop trail that takes you on a beautiful Wilderness Interpretive hike.
It should be noted that the Wiggins Road trail does fall on privately held land for much of its length, so those visiting should be respectful of posted signage.
To access this trail, turn onto Wiggins Rd and simply follow the road to its terminus point – a cul-de-sac.
Here you will spy the unmarked trailhead, which leads you down to the Tlell River. NOTE: As you walk down the slight incline at the trailhead, you will see a log fence to your left. You will have to crawl through the fence opening to access the rest of the trail – don’t let this dissuade you!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (return) TIME: Approximately 1 hour TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
St. Mary’s Spring wood carving greets you at the trail head
The very green moss covered escarpments are quite the sights!
Up is the way to go on this trail
The trees can tell you how high you are at
At sunset
A closer look at St. Mary
St. Mary’s Spring Trail Features -The fresh water spring – Escarpment trail
ABOUT
Unlike most places on Haida Gwaii, St. Mary’s Spring Trail is quite young in terms of its history. At the beginning of the 20th century, this area was known as “Duncan’s Well,” named after an early homesteader.
It is said that travellers used to stop and re-hydrate their horses at the small well. Beginning in the early 1920s, however, Annie Richardson took it upon herself to name the spring after one she’d known in England – St. Mary’s. The wooden carving that is most associated with this spot was carved a few decades later.
Time has not been kind to Haida Gwaii’s wooden saint. Now, when you visit St. Mary along Highway 16, she looks a bit tired and weathered. Her cloak is starting to decay and both arms have rotted away.
It’s only time before old St. Mary is returned to the earth from which she sprang. It’s sad but, in a way, is reflective of Haida Gwaii: When poles are carved, or houses made, they’re fresh and vibrant.
They give life; however, with the passage of time they, too, grow tired and eventually return to Mother Earth. Such a cycle is actually pretty beautiful if you think about it.
Despite having seen better days, St. Mary’s Spring is still quite attractive. People will visit, lay gifts at Madonna’s feet and drink from the freshwater well nearby. Signage beside St. Mary suggests that those who “Drink of these waters [. . .] will always return to the islands.” It’s a pleasant contemporary legend, though we would note that it’s “drink at your own risk” because the water is untreated and there’s a written notice stating as such.
You will also notice a trail to the left of St. Mary. This is the “St. Mary Spring escarpment trail,” so it is fairly steep (with an elevation gain of approximately 40 meters at its zenith), and goes towards Lawn Hill. The trail markers are scant and poorly done, but the trail itself is easy to follow. As you climb the escarpment, you will encounter dense forest, thick mosses (home to fairy slippers in Spring), ferns and plenty of deadfalls.
The trail is single-track and narrow. Parts of it are perilously close to the edge and one misstep could result in significant injury. An old blog write-up indicated nice views of Hecate Straight could be had from the trail but, while that might’ve been true at one time, it’s not the case any longer.
Of course, the trail is not the primary attraction; it is the wooden carving. If you visit, we’d suggest posing for a photo beside St. Mary and then admiring the black basalt rock formations across the road.
They hint at some old geologic activity! And, hey, you can also get some nice views of Hecate Strait 😉
The Hydro Pole 97 dunes allows a view of Tow Hill (Mar 2021)
The view of some of the North Beach (March 2021)
The obvious foot path leads you to the dunes then (April 2022)
The impressive dunes a couple years back (March 2021)
HYDRO POLE 97 TRAIL FEATURES Sand dunes Access to North Beach
ABOUT
The Hydro Pole 97 Trail Beach Access is pretty self-explanatory. It is one of many such trails in and around Naikoon Provincial Park that provides beach access; however, this one seems to receive special treatment, at least insofar as being mentioned in a couple of publications: The Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy (2011) and Backroad Mapbooks (available at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre).
While we find this rather curious, it is nevertheless a nice, albeit very short, trail. The trail does not have formal trailhead signage, but it is easy enough to find. As you’re driving along Tow Hill Road, just keep an eye out for Hydro Pole 97. If you’re driving north from Masset, the pole will be on your LEFT. The unmarked trailhead will be obvious and almost immediately beside the hydro pole.
If you wish to access the trail, you’ll have to park along the side of the road. While not formally maintained, this short trail is in good shape. The first part of the route takes you through a mix of young spruce and alder trees before entering the sand dune environment.
Once you hit the sandy dunes, you’ll notice some old fence posts – remnants of an earlier time. Please tread lightly along the dunes as these are very fragile environments home to unique flora.
Because the Hydro Pole 97 trail is so short (approximately 235 meters one-way), it is not used primarily as a hiking trail; rather, as the name implies, people use it more for the easy access it provides to the south beach.
The beach is often windy but, during low tides, you have miles upon miles of compact grey sand at your disposal. Once here, you can relax, and enjoy the sun and roar of the waves; or, you can use this as a jumping-off point to partake in the epic 50km Tl’lellan to Old Massett beach hiking route.
Having visited this short route numerous times, we’ve been impressed with how quickly the landscape changes from year to year. The erosion at the sand dunes has been quite pronounced over the last few years. It is inching ever closer to the tree line!
The “Naikoon Canoe Trail” is very short at just 140 meters one-way. It is also unmarked, but well worth the effort to find. Having seen and witnessed many blank or old Haida Canoes over the last few years, we were both keen and curious to locate this one after having seen it in some tourist photos.
“Where was it?” we pondered. Indeed, we knew the canoe was in Naikoon Provincial Park – and not too far from Tow Hill – because existing pictures made that plainly obvious. We initially thought we’d have to walk west to the end of Agate Beach but, as we discovered during a long day of hiking, that wasn’t necessary.
After hiking the Tow Hill/Blow Hole loop and Four Corners Trail, we began returning to Masset. As we drove past Agate Beach, we spied a small pullout on the right-hand side of the road (if COMING from Masset, the pull-out will be on your left, approximately 450 meters AFTER the road to Yakan Point). There’s enough room here for two vehicles to fit rather snuggly.
Once parked, you’ll see a small ramp and a short trail lined with clam shells. This is the trail to the “Naikoon Canoe.” It’s an easy walk, suitable for all ages, and only takes about two minutes to complete. At the trail’s terminus point, you’ll see a beautiful set-up: A number of pews and an archway, with the ancient Haida Canoe resting behind them.
The space has obviously been established for important celebrations like weddings, and it is picture-perfect! Imagine tying the knot on a clear day: An old Haida Canoe mere feet away and Tow Hill functioning as an epic backdrop. The trickster Raven chuckles in the background or a majestic eagle flying overhead.
The short trail obviously isn’t used for recreational hiking, but it serves an essential functional purpose. And, hey, if you’re not coming here to get married, at least you can take in a stunning photo and some history without travelling too far off the beaten path.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 280 meters (return) TIME: Less than 10 minutes TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
The waterfall can be surprisingly photogenic for its size (January 2023)
The bushes in winter (January 2021)
The short trail from the road (June 2021)
The usually unnoticed sign of the waterfall (June 2021)
Frozen version of the waterfalls in winter (December 2021)
Spring time version of the waterfalls (May 2022)
Rock Sitting Creek Feature: Easy access to waterfall
ABOUT
HlGaa K’aayhlina Gandlaay, or Rock Sitting Creek, is something of a hidden gem hiding in plain sight – as it features Rock Sitting Creek Waterfall along its path.
Because of its close proximity to the far more popular Balance Rock, this little waterfall is often overlooked. And that’s unfortunate because the water cascading down the rock cliff can be impressive – especially after a significant amount of rainfall.
You can certainly take some awe-inspiring frozen waterfalls photos in the winter months when the creek freezes in negative temperatures. Summertime does not showcase Rock Sitting Creek Waterfall flowing abundantly as it usually dries up to a trickling sight.
Not many locals are aware Skidegate has this waterfall or most likely just have passed it by following one of the village roads close to Highway 16. The waterfalls are usually overshadowed by either the Spirit Lake Trail or the nearby Balance Rock at the beach.
Accessing this waterfall is easy. If exiting Skidegate and heading north towards Masset, drive past Balance Rock. Shortly after passing the famous glacial erratic rock, you’ll come upon Balance Rock Road on your LEFT. Turn onto Balance Rock Road and, as you round the slight corner, you’ll see a small pullout and signage indicating the waterfall.
Up until the end of 2021, you had to walk a short trail of about 30 meters to reach the waterfall. Early in 2022, however, village maintenance cleared the bushy terrain and essentially eliminated any evidence of a formal trail. Now one could easily see the waterfall from the small parking area; or, if you wish to get close, simply walk the cleared terrain up to the magnificent Rock Sitting Creek Waterfall.
While the short trail might now be a thing of the past, the sublime roar of the falls still beckons and calls to those who chase waterfalls.
Pesuta Shipwrek – the trail is a mix of beach walks, river side, and forested parts
The root system on the trail is a good massage to your soles (April 2021)
The Geiki Creek Bridge (April 2021)
The mouth of the Tllel River spilling to the ocean (May 2021)
The shipwreck has been slowly being buried in the beach (Aug 2021)
Pesuta Shipwreck Trail Features
Shipwreck East Beach access Sand dunes
ABOUT
When travelling to Haida Gwaii, one will inevitably come across images of the Pesuta Shipwreck: It’s featured in tourist publications, there are beautiful pictures of it on BC Ferries, and countless bloggers have written about it online.
It’s become a symbol of the Islands similar to Balance Rock or the fallen Golden Spruce. Because of that, tourists seek it out and ensure it is part of an itinerary.
What is it about the Pesuta that draws so many? The story/context isn’t all that exciting. Basically, the Pezuta was built as a wood-hulled steam freighter during World War I and, after the war, she was sent to Seattle for “liquidation.”
In 1927, the Pezuta was converted into a 264-foot log barge capable of carrying an impressive 800,000 feet of logs. In December of 1928, the tugboat towing Pezuta struggled against a powerful storm in Hecate Strait; the big barge broke free and ran aground on East Beach, near the mouth of the Tlell River.
After nearly 100 years, just the bow remains to jut out from the sand; however, what’s left is extremely photogenic and eye-catching on a number of levels.
By the way, did you notice what we did there? Pezuta vs. Pesuta? At some point after the ship had run aground, the name got misspelled as “Pesuta” and that’s what ended up sticking. History can be funny at times.
The Pesuta Shipwreck Trail is probably the third-most-popular hiking trail on Haida Gwaii, only behind Tow Hill and the Blowhole. At 6 kilometres one-way (the posted signage at the trailhead says 5 km, but this doesn’t seem right), we’d suggest making this hike a nice day trip so as to truly enjoy the forest, river, beach and remnants of Pesuta.
When we hiked the route, it took about 2 hours and 35 minutes, one-way – and that was moving at a fairly leisurely pace. The trail is good for all skill levels because the route is mostly flat, with very little elevation gain.
To access the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail, simply visit the Tlell River Day Use area adjacent to the Tlell River Bridge. Here, you’ll see a few picnic tables and signage indicating the route. There’s also a pit toilet available.
We should also note that this site represents the start of the multi-day East Beach Trail hiking adventure. One day, when the Pesuta has completely gone back to nature, the “Pesuta Shipwreck Trail” will cease and only the East Beach Trail will remain.
The hike out to Pesuta is pretty straightforward. After passing the pit toilet, the trail splits in two – one path leads down to the river while the other heads up into the forest. Some have suggested taking the “tree portion” one-way and the “beach/river trail back,” but this is not advised because the riverbank near the Day Use area is mostly slippery silt for at least 1.5 kilometres. Trust us when we say it’s not fun to walk on!
Instead, follow the East Beach Trail signage (forest). The first 2 kilometres take you through a beautiful old-growth forest of Sitka Spruce, Cedar and lush, green moss.
During Spring, it is possible to observe Fairy Slippers in the moss. Indeed, this portion of the trail is well-marked and easy to navigate. For most of it, you walk along a ridge high above the Tlell River before briefly moving inland to cross Geikie creek.
We’d only advise using a bit of caution when walking along the ridge because the many tree roots do have the potential to trip you up! After clearing the forest, you spend the remaining 4 kilometres walking alongside the Tlell River until it empties into the Pacific Ocean.
From here, the Pesuta is visible in the distance, just a few hundred meters further up East Beach. On a clear day, this portion of the hike can be quite beautiful, especially as you walk past abandoned cabins and massive sand dunes. At the same time, it’s surprisingly hard on the feet!
Once you reach the Pesuta, it’s not uncommon to spend a fair amount of time here. We visited the wreck for a good hour, examining it and taking photos before making our way back to the trailhead (we lacked the stamina to walk the remaining 80+km up East Beach!).
The wreckage has a ghostly beauty to it: A visual memorial of humankind’s technology pitted against Mother Nature. The ship has sat here for nearly a century, getting beaten by waves and wind, and yet it’s still here – for now.
The little lovely details makes this cabin memorable
Across the back of Remi’s cabin is the Smuggler’s Cove
Well-built Remi’s cabin
Remi’s cabin with the red door
The front of the cabin is a secluded beach cove
Rock formation
Fern young growth forest leads to the beach
Ferns, ferns, ferns!
Some sections require some ropes
The trail also opens to the rocky beach facing Graham Island
The trails skirts around the beach
The Alliford Bay section where the Kwuna Point Trail begins
The trail head has a commemorative tribute
ABOUT
Kwuna Point Trail is located on Moresby Island at Alliford Bay. To find it, assuming you’re driving off the Kwuna ferry, turn LEFT onto Kwuna Point Road and drive to the end of the road. You will see a small parking lot and dock – park here.
Like most trails on Haida Gwaii, Kwuna Point does not have formal trailhead signage; however, it is clearly signified by the Stranraer 935 Memorial.
The trail is essentially a loop and takes you around Kwuna Point before exiting back onto Kwuna Point Road, approximately 300 meters from the parking lot. Trail markers are sporadically placed throughout, but the trail is easy enough to follow, so there’s practically no chance of getting disoriented.
Above all else, what we appreciated about this short hike was the varied terrain you pass through: Lush ferns, thick moss, rocky beach and young forest of cedar and Sitka spruce. If you pass through this trail in late May or early June you’ll also get to spy many a lovely fairy slipper. While Kwuna Point Trail is mostly flat, there are a few steep sections – two of which have ropes to assist – so good footwear is recommended.
Not far from the trail’s end point, a short side trail also leads to a small cabin – built by a grandfather for his grandson. This cabin is nestled in a protected beach cove that faces Graham Island. In low tide, the beach is a safe place to do some beach combing. You can enter and visit the cabin (there is a guestbook), but please leave it as you found it.
From the cabin, look across to nearby Smuggler’s Cove! We can imagine this is also a good spot for kayaking, paddle boarding, and with a wet suite swimming in the summertime.
Gray Bay – its beach boasting the grey fine sands on the coastline
The seascape views are indescribable
Gray Bay beach in low tide reflects the blue skies on the water reflection
Endless beach at Gray Bay with the camping grounds along the shoreline
The other side of the beach shoreline
In low tide, you can walk on these small sand spits on the beach
The logging road sign leading up to the camping ground of Gray Bay
The deep forests opposite the beach cradle the camping grounds
ABOUT
The Gray Bay Recreation Site is located within the Kunxalas Conservancy and is a true wilderness beach area. To access Gray Bay, you must travel approximately 25 kilometres from Sandspit: First, along Copper Bay Road; second, along the Copper Bay Mainline; third, along Spur 20; and, finally, Gray Bay Road.
Please note that once you depart the paved Copper Bay Road you will be driving along active logging roads, so proper precautions should be taken. Nevertheless, the drive out to Gray Bay is well worth the effort.
As you drive along the Copper Bay Mainline, you’ll eventually come upon the seasonal Copper Bay village, which is used by the Haida between April and May during the annual sockeye salmon run.
The area features a mix of old and modern cabins, which are inhabited during the all-too-short fishing season. If you happen to visit during this time, the Copper River becomes a proverbial beehive of activity as the Haida gather their traditional food to roast on an open fire, smoke (fish) and prepare gilgii (dried fish).
In many respects, this short period of time highlights, only too clearly, important cultural traditions and demonstrates how they’ve continued to thrive over thousands of years.
After you leave Copper Bay, the logging road gets significantly rougher – lots of deep potholes – and so progress could be slow depending upon the vehicle type. Keep an eye out for posted signage indicating the direction towards Kunxalas and the Gray Bay Recreation Site.
Once you reach the recreation area, you’ll observe there are 20 campsites (available on a first come-first serve basis). All are fairly spacious and offer easy access to Gray Bay beach. Picnic tables, fire pits and outhouses are also available; however, there is no potable water on-site and there is no internet service.
In this respect, Gray Bay, because of its remoteness and limited amenities, allows you a golden opportunity to connect with nature and experience Haida Gwaii at its best. Instead of watching YouTube or texting with friends, get in tune with nature, and enjoy the supernatural forest and its interconnectivity with the nearby Pacific Ocean.
Besides camping, the major attraction at the Gray Bay Recreation area is, obviously, Gray Bay Beach. This crescent-shaped 3km stretch of pebbly beach and compact sand is an absolute delight and is, in our opinion, one of the best beaches on Haida Gwaii.
At low tide, one could seemingly walk for miles along the unique “wavy” gray sand, admire the delicate sea life in nearby tidal pools, beach comb, ride an ATV, kayak or enjoy a nice dip in the ocean. If hiking is more your thing, the 12km (one-way) Cumshewa Head Trail can be found at the south end of Gray Bay. Please note, though, that a lack of maintenance has resulted in this trail becoming very overgrown in recent years.
If nothing else, do observe how Gray Bay is a microcosm of the ancient Haida philosophy that everything is connected to everything else: The ocean, taan (black bear) and forest all depend on one another. And we depend on them. If you have the time, the Secret Cove Trail is just nearby this recreation site.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (one-way) TIME: Approximately 40 minutes TYPE: Beach walk ELEVATION GAIN: None
Located approximately 20 kilometers north of Skidegate, Jungle Beach is a popular swimming destination for locals and tourists alike. Its ease of access – just off the highway – concomitant with the roughly 2 kilometers of sandy beach makes for an appealing day out.
The beach is clearly marked with posted signage, so it’s difficult to miss. Secondary beach parking is indicated by a carved black bear, which has definitely seen better days. In the last ten years, its arms have rotted away and, well, we wouldn’t be surprised if it’s fallen over in the next five. In any event, an outhouse is also available here. Jungle Beach is accessible via a short path.
Primary parking at Jungle Beach is located at the next pullout, just a few feet north of the black bear. Here, you’ll spy a covered shelter – perfect for picnicking – and a “fort” right near the entrance to the beach.
The fort, which has been in place for just over 20 years, is made primarily of driftwood and beach rock and features a unique spiral staircase. Once at its zenith, enjoy great views of the beach and horizon beyond! Many an imaginative child has likened this fort to a ship at sail in the sea!
At low tide, you could seemingly walk for miles along Jungle Beach before hitting the ocean for a cool swim. The beach, with its silky smooth sand, is perfect for a little outdoor therapy: Stroll with a loved one, explore the tidal pools, or take out the croquet balls and enjoy a game with the family! As the day winds down, relax on the beach and listen to the waves lapping at the shore.
But, you may be wondering, why “Jungle Beach”? Apparently, an early owner of the Premier Hotel bestowed the “Jungle Beach” name upon this place. How’d that come about?
The generally accepted story is that each winter, Haida Gwaii’s vicious storms cast such a mass of logs upon the beach’s entrance that it reminded folks of a “jungle.” A more recent theory – and one that sounds far more appealing – is that the dark waters of Jungle Creek and the forest immediately behind Jungle Beach serve as inspiration for the name.
Indeed, if you take a walk in the forest directly across the road from the carved black bear (start of the Drain Lake Trail), you’ll see what we mean!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: The beach is approximately 2km in length TIME: 40 minutes TYPE: Beach walk ELEVATION GAIN: None
Tarundl Creek passing by the flat meadows (Jan 2023)
Mouth towards Kagan Bay (Jan 2023)
The trail head of the Tarundle Loops
The fern filled forest is part of the trail
The small trail path in the forest
The Flood Plains greet you after the forest parts
Tarundl Creek flood plains
Sunset on the flood plains
Tree along the creek
Tarundle Creek (Low Tide) Jan 2021
Dead falls and moss along the trail
Tarundle Creek calm in low tide
Coming out of the forest back into the Honna Road
The trail sign showing the trail terminates to Honna Road
ABOUT
Tarundl Creek is part of the bigger Kagan Bay Recreation Site. Located west of Daajing Giids (less than 10 minutes by car), and along the Honna Service road, the Kagan Bay Recreation Site offers a host of activities for all members of the family to enjoy. The site has everything whether you want to go fishing, kayaking, hiking, or camping. Indeed, the rugged recreation area,which has Sleeping Beauty as a backdrop, offers us a reprieve from the hurly-burly of daily life while concomitantly providing an opportunity to better appreciate nature.
As you drive along the Honna Service road, you will come upon the Kagan Bay Day Use Area at about the 2 kilometre mark. The site features a picnic table, fire ring and beach access. At low tide, one could walk quite a distance onto the beach; however, we find it a little too “sinky” for our liking.
For us, the big attraction of the day-use area is the Tarundl Creek Trail. Of the local village trails, this one is by far the easiest – but that’s not to suggest it’s stale by any means. Clocking in at 1.5 kilometres in length, the trail takes you through the lush rainforest and rich floodplain.
In this respect, it allows one to see the unique interplay between forest and ocean and how those two systems depend upon one another. Indeed, it is little wonder higher education societies often use Tarundl as a learning ground in the Fall when salmon are spawning and the bears are gathering nutrients for winter: Gina ‘waadluxan gud ad kwaagid.
That said, the yellow markers along Tarundl Creek Trail can be challenging to find at times. As you start out on the trail, you will follow an old skid road, which will lead onto the floodplain. Once here, keep to the right and you will see the path returning to the forest (of course, at low tide, take some time to explore the plain – it’s lovely).
Once back in the forest, you will see a Y on the trail. We recommend going to the LEFT for a richer and far more rewarding hike; otherwise, if you take the path on the right, your hike will end in short order – less than 10 minutes – and you’ll quickly find yourself back on the Honna Road.
While the Village of Daajing Giids identifies the Tarundl Creek Trail as a loop trail, it is more appropriately described as an out-and-back route because the start and end points are completely different points; however, we suppose you could call this a “loop” if you follow the Honna Road back to the Kagan Bay Day Use Area.
Pebbles and rocks on the beach makes a beach walk interesting
Top view of the beach trail
Mists over calm waters
The other side of the beach trail going towards the “Beach Access”
ABOUT
Located west of Daajing Giids, and approximately 3 kilometres along the Honna Forest Service road, is the Kagan Bay Beach Trail. The Kagan Bay Beach recreational site offers six user-maintained campsites, all of which face the beach. Each site features a picnic table and fire ring (perfect for roasting hotdogs or marshmallows!), and there is a single – very basic – outhouse meant to service all 6 sites.
At low tide, it’s not uncommon to see Great Blue Herons on the pebbly beach, or locals harvesting luscious bivalves like oysters and clams. The area is ideal for kayakers and those looking to get out into nature, but not too far into the wild. Right across the beach on any of the campsites, there was a supposed oyster farm that used to operate in the area. It has now since been discontinued, but the chances of anyone finding oysters are not uncommon.
Of interest to hikers and beachcombers, the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy identifies this area as the informal “Kagan Bay Beach Trail.” This rough, unmaintained route basically follows the shoreline and acts primarily as a link to the six campsites.
In that regard, we wouldn’t really call it a recreational trail – it’s more functional – but one could walk beyond the campsites and explore more of the rugged coastal terrain if they so wished. In fact, on a low tide, if you’re feeling really adventurous, it is possible to hike around the point (the official “end” of the Kagan Beach Trail) for another 770 meters and link up to Tarundl.
We should note that the Kagan Bay Recreation Area basically ends at the Kagan Log Sort. When you arrive at this part of the road, you will see a sign indicating the route for “Public Beach Access.” It is not advisable to drive beyond the Sort without a 4×4 vehicle.
The Haydn Turner Beach trail shale rock formation makes for some picturesque terrain
The trail head entrance going into the beach trail
The other side of the beach trail looping back to the camp grounds
One of the many spider trails along the beach
Magical misty day makes the trail mystical
On the beach trail
The other entrance of the trail loop – near the campgrounds
A bit of forest walk
The Crabapple Creek spilling into the sea
Interesting tree roots in the loop
The road towards the camping grounds
ABOUT
The Haydn Turner Beach Trail is located at the end of Oceanview Drive, towards the western end of Daajing Giids. Once at the terminus of Oceanview Drive, you’ll spy Haydn Turner campground signage at the head of a narrow road.
Following this road will bring you into the campground and, at its end, the village cemetery. The beach trail is accessible at a few points here – all of which are clearly denoted with “BEACH TRAIL” markers.
While the trail is designed to be a major feature of Haydn Turner Campground and its guests, this easy stroll along the pebbly beach is typically enjoyed by locals as well. It’s not unusual to see people walking their dogs here.
A mix of course sand and black shale rock, the Haydn Turner Beach Trail packs a varied terrain in its short 1 kilometer. On the one hand, you’re treated to beautiful views of nearby Sleeping Beauty Mountain; on the other hand, Bearskin Bay and Skidegate Inlet beckon and call.
When the tide is low, the sandy beach is visible; however, we would not advise walking down here because the sand is very “sinky” and could get you in some trouble rather quickly. Instead, if you must venture beyond the rocky shore, do so on a kayak as this place represents a popular jumping-off point for those keen to get onto the water.
Haydn Turner, as a campground, features 8 sheltered RV sites and 2 walk-in tent sites, the latter of which hug the pebbly shores. Picnic tables, fire pits, and a couple of pit toilets are also available. We should note that the campsite basically sits at the doorstep of Daajing Giids cemetery while the beach trail loops around it (with a couple of small “spider trails” hugging the woods).
Some may find this unsettling while still others might find a sense of peace and calm – especially if you happen to be walking the beach during a misty afternoon.
Note: If camping in the area, please respect your surroundings and place garbage in the appropriate receptacle and extinguish all campfires!
Described by the Village of Masset as “one of [its] main attractions,” the Delkatla Nature Sanctuary Trail was established in 1969 and is a 290-hectare intertidal wetland area that serves as a “critical migratory stopover for birds during spring and fall migration, an important wintering waterfowl area and home to many summer nesting species.” Since its establishment, some 50 years ago, over 140 species of bird have been observed here. We think the Nature Sanctuary is best appreciated as a two-part experience.
The first part of the Delkatla experience is the Nature Centre, which is located at Trumpeter Drive. Admission is a very reasonable $2. The Centre is a place of orientation: Here you can learn a good deal about the local flora and fauna by observing a number of detailed write-ups on flowers, plants, and muskeg. The Centre also features a few “stuffed” examples of birds from the area. It’s a small space, but it provides a wealth of information.
The second part of the Delkatla experience is the actual nature walk itself. The walk is approximately 5 kilometers in length and takes you on a mix of trails and roadside. Depending on your purpose, you may or may not find this segment of the experience somewhat dull because a fair length of the route is actually on roads. In fact, if you wanted, you could “cheat” and drive along a significant portion of the sanctuary without diluting one’s overall enjoyment – many of the viewing platforms are along the road, or just off it.
If beginning your hike at the Nature Sanctuary, walk north along Trumpeter Drive for approximately 700 meters until you hit Northwest Drive. From here, you leave the paved road and start walking northeast along a gravel dike road, bringing you deeper into the sanctuary and its unique wetland environment.
Of note for birders, a viewing tower can be found in this area. Keep a keen and watchful eye for lovely sandhill cranes, blue herons, Canada Geese, ravens, and seagulls.
Of historical note: This section of the route is also known as the “Stepping Stones Trail” because, once upon a time, the road you’re walking on was made up of stepping stones to help people cross the intertidal slough.
After hiking approximately 1.4 kilometers, you will come upon Masset Cemetery Road. From here, you can hike south along the road and connect up with the Simpson Tower Trail, which will bring you near the end of Cemetery Road. Or, you can walk roughly 750 meters north towards Masset Cemetery and its Beach Access Trail.
Assuming you chose to hike south along the Simpson Tower Trail – which also provides beautiful viewing opportunities of Delkatla Sanctuary – you’ll eventually come upon the end of Cemetery Road. From here, walk west along Tow Hill Road back towards Masset. Along the way, you’ll come upon another viewing tower. Read the information boards on site and then continue your walk back into Masset.
Indeed, from a hiking perspective, Delkatla and its network of trails make for a good family walk; however, those wishing to explore more of Haida Gwaii’s wild side might be a little underwhelmed. Birders, on the other hand, should enjoy this experience at all times of the year. It truly is a birdwatcher’s delight!
Every spring, millions of shorebirds leave their winter homes and fly north to nesting grounds in the Arctic region. A key migration route lies along the western edge of North America – the Pacific Flyway.
Birds making the long journey will typically stop for a brief sojourn on Haida Gwaii at the Delkatla Sanctuary. Here, the sanctuary’s marsh, ponds, and dense conifers provide an excellent place to rest and gather nourishment for the long journey onward. For us, it also makes for some excellent birding as well.
One important trail – as part of Delkatla – is the Simpson Tower Trail. The layout of this 1.7-kilometer (one way) the route is kind of interesting. Once you turn onto Cemetery Road, you will see the trailhead about a hundred or so meters in on your left, as signified by a marker.
The parking lot, however, is found at the trail’s northern terminus point, nearly 2 kilometers away. Nevertheless, the route is a pleasant and easy stroll since it basically runs parallel to the road. As you walk through the treed side of the sanctuary, take the time to listen for beautiful birdsong and appreciate some of the quirky artwork/signage along the way. As you hike, you may even catch a glimpse of the chatty Steller’s Jay or Hairy Woodpecker, both of which are endemic to Haida Gwaii.
At several spots along this route, the trail dips into the various meadows and ponds of Delkatla, giving birders easy access to parts of the sanctuary. If you began your hike at the trail’s northern terminus (parking lot), a short route there leads you to the Simpson viewing tower which, you guessed it, is where this trail gets its name.
Please note that while the trail is classified as “easy,” lack of maintenance has made parts of the trail kind of rough. You will encounter some deadfall along the route, but nothing major.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 3.4km (return) TIME: Approximately 1 hour TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
This is one of the key featured tree on the trail – showing a nursing log sustaining new growth
The trail is well-maintained
GOLDEN SPRUCE TRAIL FEATURES: · Haida legend · Old growth trees · Access to Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy
ABOUT
The Golden Spruce Trail is located approximately 10 minutes (3.5 km) outside the community of Port Clements and represents a brisk 20-minute roundtrip walk. Up until January 1997, the end of this short well-manicured trail led to a viewpoint whereby you could see and admire Kiidk’yaas, the Golden Spruce.
An old photo of the Golden Spruce.
Credit: Marla Abbott
The ancient tree, estimated to be about 300 years old, was a massive Sitka spruce known for its rare golden needles. It figured prominently in Haida stories. Unfortunately, in mid-January 1997, the tree was chopped down by the deranged “protester,” Grant Hadwin. His actions sparked international outrage; the tale is powerfully told in John Vaillant’s The Golden Spruce (2005), a must-read and primer for anyone wanting to walk this short trail. Context is essential to understanding and appreciating this sacred place.
I had the privilege of seeing the actual Golden Spruce in June of 1996, a mere 7 months before it was felled. The trail was a bit narrower back then, but still easy to navigate. Seeing and being surrounded by the massive old-growth forest was a fantastic experience, but nothing could compare to seeing Kiidk’yaas in person. Its golden foliage radiated in contrast to its greener relatives and the almost black Yakoun River at its base.
Currently, the Golden Spruce Trail has been widened and is accessible to those with mobility issues. The old-growth forest; the soft and lush moss; monumental trees and decaying nurse logs still maintain and hold their power over those who hike the trail. It is a very serene experience; one heightened even further by the plaques, designed by the late Ben Davidson, placed throughout highlighting the Haida’s spiritual, emotional, and practical attachment to the land.
Once you reach the end of the official trail, you come upon a viewpoint that, up until about 3 years ago, allowed you to view the skeleton of the Golden Spruce. Now, all that remains is a stump, which is difficult to see and identify. In a very real sense, the walk is both beautiful and tragic at the same time.
In death, however, we often find life. After the Golden Spruce fell in 1997, a number of cuttings were taken from the tree in hopes of planting “golden” offspring. One such cutting has indeed survived and is viewable in Port Clements’ Millennium Park. The golden needles shine bright and radiant.
While the official Golden Spruce Trail is only 400 meters one-way, it is possible to walk nearly an additional 2 kilometres along the “unmaintained” portion of the trail (indicated by signage at the end of the “official” route). In our view, the reason you may wish to hike this route is for the golden opportunity it presents to explore more of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy. The Conservancy has been used by the Haida for at least 10,000 years and is rife with historic, cultural, social, and spiritual meaning – something very evident along this trail.
Lasting structures – remnants of the old docks at the end of the Watun River Road
Watun River spilling over to the Masset Inlet
Top view of the remaining dock structures
Near the entrance of the road
The Watun River Road, which has also been identified as a trail elsewhere, is accessible just off the Watun River Bridge, approximately 20 minutes south of Masset. The road is roughly 400 meters in length but is often muddy.
We would not recommend driving the length of the road unless you have a 4-wheel capable truck. If driving a standard vehicle, a safe alternative would be to pull off to the side of the bridge – where there’s ample parking for at least 3 mid-size vehicles – and walk the length of the road. It’s a brief and easy trek, taking only about 6 minutes to reach the mouth of Watun River and Masset Sound. As you walk this route, you can enjoy the scenic beauty that surrounds you. Western hemlock, ferns, and grasses dominate the trail landscape and are often blanketed by lush mosses.
Once you reach the terminus point of the trail/road, you’re treated to the unique wetlands protected by the Kamdis Conservancy. These intertidal shallows are rich in vegetation and sea life: sedges, grasses, and rushes abound thanks to the rich waterways and soils. If walking here at low tide, use caution as the area can be a bit slippery.
Beyond the wetland expanse, you’ll undoubtedly notice old wooden pillars off in the distance. These are all that remain of a primitive dock system that used to be in the area. Decaying and returning to nature, these columns have their own charm about them now. These old pillars might also be part of the Watun River Cannery that existed in the area from 1919- 1930.
As part of the Kamdis Conservancy site, the Watun River road/trail access is important for ecological and cultural purposes. Here you can get a glimpse of early settler development while also seeing but a small part of why Kamdis is a significant intertidal estuarine wetland complex. It’s a short hike (or an even shorter drive), but the rewards are many!
DIFFICULTY: Easy LENGTH: Approximately 400 meters TRAIL TYPE: Out and Back
Locating the Scout Lake Trailhead marker is an adventure in itself. To find this trail, you first have to hike the full Charlie Hartie Trail, which clocks in at approximately 800 meters one way and has an elevation gain of 160 meters. After about an hour of hiking, you’ll come upon the official terminus point of the Charlie Hartie Trail, as indicated by a fork and some signage. One arrow points left towards “Charlie Hardie,” but blowdown and lack of maintenance have made this route towards the creek virtually unnavigable. The right-pointing arrow, on the other hand, indicates the route to Scout Lake and, in effect, represents the trailhead. From this point onwards, it’s an uphill climb – of just over 1 kilometer in the distance – towards the small lake. Blue tape indicates your path.
The Scout Lake Trail, much like the Charlie Hartie that precedes it, is rough, narrow, miry, and quite steep in some places. For much of the climb, you’ll be making your way through dense forest, but there are a few monumental cedars along the way. Seeing these giants up close really helps to put things into perspective and highlights, only too clearly, why protecting our forests is important.
Just before reaching the zenith of your climb, you will have to descend into a small ravine and cross Templeton Creek before climbing again and finally reaching the flat bog lands. This part of the trek is fairly straightforward in summer, but if you hike the route during winter be prepared to deal with plenty of packed snow and ice.
Once you reach the bog, the ground is mostly flat and it’s an easy hike to Scout Lake from here. Just make sure you’re wearing good waterproof gear and be cautious of the numerous small pools dotting the landscape. DO NOT step in these. They may look shallow but they’re deceptively deep!
As you close in on Scout Lake, you’ll come across one of this hike’s more interesting features – a sign that looks like it came right out of a Dr. Seuss book! It points every which way and nowhere in particular. The wooden sign gives general distances to Scout Lake, Regier Lake, Chinukundl Creek, and Queen Charlotte. We’ve wondered if it’s possible to hike towards Regier Lake from here.
Once you reach the Dr. Seuss sign, Scout Lake will be to your left (or west) – a little over 5 minutes away. Just follow the pink tape on what looks like a deer trail and you’ll eventually reach your destination. When we saw Scout Lake, it was still partially frozen, which added to its charm.
All in all, Scout Lake is a good, albeit challenging, hike. It is more scenic than the Charlie Hartie, though we say that only because Scout Lake actually leads somewhere rather than ending at a random point (as the existing “Charlie” does). Hiking to Scout Lake, you encounter beautiful green mosses; monumental cedars; and a unique bog environment, featuring salal, Labrador Tea, and a host of other flora. In brief, it’s a challenging but rewarding hiking adventure!
Note that in some literature Scout Lake is also referred to as “Charlie Hardie South Lake Trail.”
DIFFICULTY: Hard TOTAL DISTANCE: 3.5 kilometers return (including Charlie Hartie Trail) TIME: 2 hours one-way TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: 395 meters
The Monique Creek Trail, like the Three Mile Creek Trail, is found deep within the Tlall Conservancy. Accessing it in the current day requires a bit of effort because the original point of entry – Survey Forest Service Road – was formally decommissioned in 2016 after years of disuse.
Now, if you wish to visit this trail, you’ll have to drive nearly 1.5 hours along the Daajing Giids backroads: First, drive approximately 20 minutes along the QC Mainline (passing the decommissioned Survey Forest Service Road) until you come upon the un-signed junction for Lakes Main Road, near the Mile 17 marker, to your RIGHT. Take this turn and follow Lakes Main for nearly an hour – you will eventually connect to what’s left of the Survey Forest Service Road. Once here, turn to your RIGHT and park your vehicle. You will see the decommissioned section of the Survey Forest Road. For all intents and purposes, this is where your hike begins.
You must hike along the Survey Forest Road for approximately 3.5 kilometers before hitting the “official” Monique Creek Trailhead. This portion of the hike is relatively straightforward and easy; however, the numerous trenches dug as part of the decommissioning process – there are more than 10 of them – can be a bit of a challenge. Long grass has grown over the rocks, making footing a little uncertain.
The official Monique Creek Trail begins at an overgrown spur road and will be to your LEFT. An orange arrow – one of the few still left after 20+ years – and an extremely faded trailhead sign indicate the start of the route. The official trail follows the spur road for a few hundred meters before turning off into the dense bush. Because most of the trail markers have gone, it’s very easy to miss the turnoff point, which is exactly what we did. We continued hiking along the increasingly overgrown road for a good 5 minutes before realizing we were off the trail.
Because the turnoff point is extremely dense, how do you know where to depart the old road? The best answer we can give is, as you’re hiking the overgrown road, keep your eyes peeled for a lone orange trail marker pointing BACK towards the Monique Creek Trailhead. From the marker, turn LEFT into the dense bush. This is where the route gets fun because the trail is almost non-existent at this point. There is the odd marker, but they’re far and few between. We spent 30 minutes in here, trying to find our way.
Once you emerge from the dense bush, you’re rewarded with the lovely confluence of Survey and Monique Creeks. You’ll spy a trail marker on the opposite side of Survey Creek. Cross here. There apparently used to be a natural log bridge, but it’s not there anymore. Be prepared to get your feet wet unless you’re wearing boots! After you cross, walk upstream along Monique Creek.
The Monique Creek is a nice example of a coho spawning stream flowing through old-growth forests. Unaffected by development, it’s an ideal place to study the unique habitat features for spawning coho. As we hiked along the creek, we found many frogs, some elk tracks, and salmon Fry in the creek!
By the route’s end – just minutes after a log jam – you’ll come upon the trail’s star attraction: A large Sitka Spruce that has a creek running through its roots! The tree is a special sight and well worth the hike.
Unfortunately, trails like Monique Creek have fallen into severe disuse due largely to the difficulty associated with getting to them. Once upon a time, you could probably do this hike in a couple of hours; however, because you now have to drive nearly 1.5hrs + hike 3.5km before getting to the trailhead, it is best to give yourself a full day to enjoy the serenity of nature.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (return, official trail); 10km (return, from Survey Forest Rd) TIME: 6 hours TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: 40 meters
The logging barge and the river flow spilling into Masset inlet
The logging barge up close
KUMDIS RIVER TRAIL FEATURES: · Environmental research · Barge remnants
ABOUT
The Kumdis River Trail is a short out-and-back route located approximately 2 kilometers outside the village of Port Clements. Like most trails on Haida Gwaii, the Kumdis River Trail lacks a formal trailhead; however, it is easy enough to find. As you drive along Yellowhead 16 towards Masset, you’ll come upon a small pullout to the immediate left of the Kumdis River Bridge. This short dirt road essentially represents the trailhead.
At the very beginning of the hike, you’re treated to lovely views of the Kumdis River and promised a flat trail to complete. The Kumdis River often acts like a mirror on a clear and calm day. The trees on the opposite side of the riverbank flawlessly reflect on the water. The end result is almost dream-like – quiet reflections hinting at what’s to come.
Walking the rest of this short trail is fairly uneventful and straightforward. For the first few minutes, you walk through a nice pocket of old growth filled with towering red cedar and thick Sitka spruce. You then pass through a grassy clearing before re-entering the forest. Finally, just before entering the grasslands and sedge at Kumdis Bay, you come upon what, in our view, is a highlight of this trail: Stunted and twisted trees covered in long, wispy old man’s beard lichen. It’s quite a sight and unlike most anything, you’ll see on Graham Island.
Once you enter the grassy lowlands of Kumdis Bay, you can take a few moments to explore and appreciate this unique environment. Part of the Kumdis River conservation area, it’s not uncommon to see the Council of the Haida Nation, in partnership with NCC, conducting necessary fieldwork. As an estuary, this area is home to a plethora of fish, invertebrates, and waterfowl, giving Kumdis high ecological importance.
It’s most curious (and even a little ironic), then, when you spot an old barge once used to transport logs resting on the river. It has been here so long – close to 100 years – that it’s now become part of the landscape. Moss, shrubs, and trees now dominate the structure. Nature is taking over!
Slightly elevated part of the trail with helpful cut logs to help you up
Part of the beach you see at end of trail
The open horizon leading up o the beach
ANDREWS PLACE ROAD TRAIL FEATURES: Beach Access Access to Naikoon Provincial Park
ABOUT
The Andrews Place Road Trail is a short out-and-back route located at the end of, well, Andrews Place Road in Tlell. The trailhead is not formally marked; however, it can be seen adjacent to a hydro pole at the end of the cul-de-sac, next to Sandy House. At just 250 meters in length, it only takes 5 minutes to complete this trail and emerge, first, onto the flat sand dunes and then the pebbly beach below.
Because of its short length, I suspect this trail was created more for functional reasons – beach access – than recreational hiking. As such, proper hiking gear is not required. The path is user-maintained and the terrain is mostly flat; however, there are some roots to watch out for as well as some potentially slippery steps to climb en route to the beach.
For the first three minutes of the hike, you walk through fairly dense salal bushes and young Sitka Spruce. Beautiful green moss carpets areas of the forest floor. Just before reaching a set of stairs, you’ll spy a heavily worn and faded sign pointing “to the beach.” After climbing the stairs, you’ll come upon a beautiful memorial bench that sits at the junction of forest and sand dunes. From here, it’s a short two- minute walk towards the beach.
In late Spring and early Summer, the sand dunes in this area – and throughout Naikoon Provincial Park are rife with life. As you walk, be sure to keep an eye out for delicious wild strawberries! At times, the sweet aroma is enough to envelop the mind!
At high tide the beach in this area is pebbly and rough; however, low tide exposes the smooth, packed sand. Most who visit this area either do so for a refreshing dip in the Pacific Ocean or to walk along the shoreline – technically part of the larger Misty Meadows Loop Trail – toward the mouth of the Tlell River. On a clear day, the expanse of beach and sand dunes can, and do, appear most welcoming.
BLACKWATER CREEK WATERFALL TRAILS FEATURES: · Relatively easy access to waterfalls · Challenging rope sections
The Blackwater Creek Waterfall Trails are a couple of hidden gems on Haida Gwaii. The two trails are short – clocking in at about 200 and 400 meters respectfully – and very remote; however, if one enjoys chasing waterfalls, these two routes are definitely worth the effort. As these trails are not well known, they do not appear in any of the literature available on Haida Gwaii. Here’s how you get to them:
1) Starting in Port Clements, drive south along Bayview Drive towards the Golden Spruce Trail.
2) Keep driving. Bayview Drive eventually turns into the Port Man Forest Service Road – an active logging road. At about the 11km mark from Port Clements, you’ll come upon signage for the “HAIDA CANOE” Trail. Then, 150 meters from this point you’ll spot a “Y” or split in the road. Turn RIGHT onto the New Mainline Road. You will then cross a bridge over the Mamin River before coming to another “Y.”
Keep left on the New Mainline Road for approximately 500 meters. You will then see a minor logging road to your LEFT. Turn here and drive for nearly 5 kilometres. Note that, from this point on, the road is narrow (single track) and does have a few low-hanging alder trees you’ll have to clear.
3) After driving along the road for nearly 5 kilometres, you’ll cross a small bridge over Blackwater Creek. Barely 100 meters past this bridge, you’ll come upon another “Y.” Turn RIGHT. Drive approximately 2 kilometres along this narrow road. If you’ve made it this far, you’ll spy the trailhead marker for the first waterfall. It is signified by pink and orange flagging tape hanging from young spruce trees.
The trail is short – approximately 200 meters one-way – but it is more reminiscent of a stroll through the bush than an actual trail. Expect to walk through dense forest, a lot of deadfalls and a few muddy sections. The good news, though, is the route is extremely well-marked: There is bright flagging tape every few feet, so it’s virtually impossible to get lost.
At the end of your hike, you’ll come upon a moderately steep section, which you must carefully descend in order to view the waterfall. The waterfall itself is quite nice; however, it is difficult to photograph on account of being obstructed by large logs. After enjoying the cascading falls and the sounds of nature, return the way you came.
4) To view the second waterfall, continue driving approximately 1.2 kilometres up the same narrow road. You will eventually see the trailhead markers – signified by candy cane patterned flagging tape – to your LEFT. A pullout, large enough for 2 vehicles, is just a few feet up the road. Unlike the first waterfall, the route to this second waterfall resembles a more traditional trail (albeit a little rough).
It, too, is extremely well marked with flagging tape. The total length of this trail is approximately 400 meters (one way), but that’s because, at the mid-point, it splits. If you go to the RIGHT, you’ll come upon the “top” of the falls, which is picturesque in its own right and features an attractive “kiddie pool” more than suitable for a swim.
If you go to the LEFT at the trail split, you’ll eventually make your way to a fairly large waterfall, cascading down a rounded rock face. Use caution, though: To get to these falls, you must descend an extremely steep area that, in one area, is almost completely vertical. There are several sturdy ropes to assist you here. Once you make it down, however, it is only a short walk to the impressive falls.
It is not uncommon for people to linger here for many a moment and cool off under the cascading water. Once you’re finished admiring the serene beauty laid out before you, simply head back the way you came.
Getting to these waterfalls may be tricky (both in navigating the narrow logging roads and hiking), but it is well worth the effort. In both instances, the waterfalls are a mere 10 to 15 minutes off the road. In our view, the second waterfall, in particular, is the major highlight because of its size and relative ease of access; in fact, we’d even suggest it rivals the Dover Falls in Sandspit!
Again, though, keep in mind that you will be driving on active logging roads; thus, proper caution should be exercised. In addition, while a truck is not necessary to reach these sites, a standard vehicle is not ideal for these roads.
DIFFICULTY: Easy to Moderate TOTAL DISTANCE: 400 and 800 meters (return) TIME: 50 minutes (for both trails, out and back) TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal
MASSET CEMETERY ROAD BEACH ACCESS TRAIL: · Access to North Beach · Masset Cemetery
ABOUT
The aptly named Masset Cemetery Road Beach Access Trail is exactly as it says: It is located adjacent to Masset Cemetery and provides straightforward access to South Beach. In this regard, it isn’t much of a hiking trail but serves a functional purpose. The trail is wide and flat, taking you through compacted sand and a few scattered spruce trees before hitting the beach. In brief, there’s nothing much of note along this short trail. It’s all in the destination. . .
In our experience, most people don’t access this trail on foot. Instead, because it is so wide (and resembles a road more than a trail), ATVs and trucks are far more common. The few times we’ve hiked this route, ATVs and other vehicles have always been present – riding up and down the pebbly beach at quite the pace. But the vehicle use isn’t just for recreational fun: At certain times of the year, the Haida will access the beach in this area to harvest traditional foods.
As noted, it is highly unlikely one would visit this trail for recreational hiking purposes. Instead, we recommend doing the practical thing: Use it to access the beach – which itself is part of the larger Tl’ellan to Old Massett Trail – and go for a nice stroll alongside the powerful Pacific Ocean. As you amble about, keep an eye out for sea life, agates, and beach glass. There’s no telling what you might find!
Finally, since you’re in the area, we would also recommend visiting the Masset Cemetery: This is a truly unique space, unlike any cemetery we’ve visited. Haida Watchmen figures keep a close eye on some resting sites while mounds of agates and scallop shells can be found at others. In a large city, some of these “precious” items would quickly grow legs, but in a small community like Haida Gwaii, the house of the dead is deeply respected. Thus, if you do choose to visit the cemetery before or after walking the nearby beach, step quietly and cautiously. Someone – or something – is always watching 😉
The Dover Falls describes itself as a “hard trail” on its trail marker.
The bridge across the Haans Creek was built on top of a natural log bridge tree.
Haans Creek on a calm waters
LOUISE DOVER TRAIL FEATURES: · Old Growth forest · Culturally Modified Trees · Dover Falls
ABOUT
The Louise Dover Trail is located adjacent to the Haans Creek bridge, just before entering Sandspit. Initially conceived in the mid-1990s, the trail is named after Louise Dover, an influential woman of Haida ancestry who lived in the community of Sandspit. In many respects, the trail is an apt memorial and tribute because it introduces hikers to key elements of Haida Gwaii: Important fish streams; unique flora and fauna; ancient Haida culture; rare geology and fossils; and, a larger appreciation for how everything depends upon everything else.
In 2008, the Dover Trail became part of the larger Damaxyaa Heritage Site and Conservancy. Encompassing some 829 hectares, the conservancy plays host to important fish-bearing streams – one of which is Haans Creek – and contains a high density of recorded culturally modified trees (CMTs), a few of which can be spied along the Dover Trail. Both in pre-history and the current day, Damaxyaa is an important place for the Haida in terms of food gathering, medicine and culture. A seasonal Haida camp known as Kil was originally located at the mouth of Haans Creek, but no evidence of this remains today.
Most official documentation on the Dover Trail clocks it in at 3.5km in length, but 4km is much more accurate. The first 200 meters are dubbed universal access, and bring you to a handsome viewing gazebo, thanks to significant upgrades completed in the autumn of 2020. After this, the trail becomes narrow and rough for most of the loop.
Expect a lot of “up, down, up down” for much of your hike. Once you hit the mid-way point of the Dover loop, you’ll see a marked side trail. This leads you to a lava bed and fossils – one of the trail’s key highlights. If you ignore this trail, though, and continue along the main Dover loop, the route climbs quite steeply away from Haans Creek. Near the end of your climb, a small stake in the ground indicates 400 meters of “hard” trail leads to a waterfall.
If you’re feeling ambitious, it’s certainly worth the effort; however, be advised that much of this side trail is steep and muddy with a couple of rope sections. Early in, you also have to get creative in getting over a fallen monumental cedar tree.
The final section of the Dover Trail loops back towards the road and trailhead, connecting with the trail you started near the natural log bridge at Haans Creek. Much of this trail is muddy, but home to many old-growth Sitka Spruce and Cedar trees. As you hike back towards the trailhead and Haans Creek, you’ll spy at least one CMT with a large “test hole” in it. You’ll also come across the “Skyline Trail,” which remains closed for whatever reason as of this writing.
Many who visit Haida Gwaii declare the Dover Trail to be their favourite overall hike. The terrain is varied; there are a number of side trails to visit and explore; it offers a glimpse into the old-growth forest and Haida culture; and, it represents a great way to reconnect with nature. Think of it as forest therapy.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate TOTAL DISTANCE: 4km (longer if exploring side trails) TIME: 3 hours TYPE: Loop ELEVATION GAIN: 106 meters
We came upon Smugglers Cove quite by accident. We were en route to the Kwuna Point Trail when we spied this lovely little cove just 250 meters up Kwuna Point Road in Sandspit. You’ll see a small pullout suitable for one vehicle when you reach it. With its serene and peaceful setting, it called to us; thus, after hiking Kwuna Point, we decided to enjoy a few moments of zen at Smugglers Cove.
As noted, Smugglers Cove is tiny but its ease of access makes it far more attractive, in our view than the more popular Secret Cove. Smugglers Cove is literally right off the road whereas, with Secret Cove, you have to drive nearly an hour on rough logging roads and then hike a short trail. Its physical geography is also similar to that of Secret Cove: The beach is primarily made up of small stones while each side of the cove features a rocky shoreline replete with a variety of stunning sea life. Keep an eye peeled for small beach crabs! Smugglers Cove is also home to some old cabin remnants, which makes for a unique photo opportunity!
While it is possible to take a dip in the ocean, we think Smugglers Cove is far more suitable for a picnic or relaxation on the pebbly beach. The cold water from the open ocean can be challenging if you do not have a wetsuit even on a hot summer day. It is also recommended you have a pair of strong sandals when dipping in the water as the sharp little rocks can be hard to navigate. As you sit here and marvel at Haida Gwaii’s natural beauty, you just might spy “Remi’s Cabin” in the distance!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: N/A TIME: N/A TYPE: Beach walk ELEVATION GAIN: None
The Three Mile Creek trail is showing a bit of erosion
There are some minimal trail markers but the safe route is to follow the creek back to the bridge
The creek has a lot of dead falls and flooding debris
THREE MILE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES: · Salmon spawning creek · Cascade · Tlall Conservancy
The Three Mile Creek Trail is found deep within the Tlall Conservancy. Accessing it in the current day requires a bit of effort because the original point of entry – Survey Forest Service Road – was formally decommissioned in 2016 after years of disuse.
Now, if you wish to visit this trail, you’ll have to drive nearly 1.5 hours along the Daajing Giids backroads: First, drive approximately 20 minutes along the QC Mainline (passing the decommissioned Survey Forest Service Road) until you come upon the un-signed junction for Lakes Main Road to your RIGHT.
Take this turn and follow Lakes Main for nearly an hour – you will eventually connect to what’s left of the Survey Forest Service Road. Once here, you’ll spy a bridge that crosses Three Mile Creek.
If you’ve come all this way to hike the trail, do NOT cross the bridge because the unsigned trailhead for Three Mile Creek Trail is just before the bridge on your RIGHT.
Lack of maintenance for nearly two decades has made the route difficult to see but the faint outline of a trail is there. Descend the minor slope and begin your trek!
In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Three Mile Creek Trail – along with the nearby Monique Creek Trail – was promoted in an interpretive booklet by the Tlell Watershed Society. Evidence of their “wilderness interpretive route” narrative can still be found near the start of the trail. Look up at an alder tree near the Three Mile Creek bridge – you’ll spy signage explaining the creek’s role as an important area for spawning coho and steelhead salmon. I suspect there were more signs like this along the trail, but we didn’t see any on our hike. Time and the elements have likely eliminated them.
While the trail is only 1 kilometre in length, expect to take at least an hour to complete the full route. Three Mile Creek hasn’t seen any maintenance for nearly 2 decades – well before the decommissioning of Survey Forest Road – and it shows. Almost right out of the gate, the trail is difficult to find and follow.
The path is mostly overgrown and significant deadfall litters the trail. The odd trail marker can still be found, and they help somewhat, but we still lost the trail for brief moments. I guess the best thing to keep in mind is that the route basically follows Three Mile Creek for its duration.
As we hiked along the creek, we admired the old-growth Sitka Spruce and Red Cedar. We did not encounter any wildlife; however, we did spy on elk tracks and bear dung along the way.
Why might someone wish to come into the backcountry and hike this trail? I can posit a couple of reasons: 1) To explore an important tributary to the Tlell River Watershed; and, 2) To probe deeper into the Tlall Conservancy beyond what’s available near the community of Tlell. Either way, getting here and hiking the trail are certainly adventures in their own right!
DIFFICULTY: Moderate TOTAL DISTANCE: 2km (return) TIME: Approximately 2 hours, depending on skill level TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
GOVERNMENT DOCKS FEATURES: · Family-friendly · Views of Masset & Skidegate Inlets · Urban hike
It might seem silly to write about the three Haida Gwaii Government Docks as trails – and believe me, I do feel kind of silly – but they are identified as “trails” in the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy document (2011). I suspect this was probably done for funding purposes and to inflate the number of trails on the archipelago, though I’m not sure why one would need to do that. Even if we went for a very loose definition of what constitutes a “trail,” I somehow doubt these would make the cut; after all, they are, as their name explicitly states, docks.
But let’s ignore that for a moment. Let’s presuppose that these three docks don’t just serve a specific function (as a place for boats to moor). Instead, let’s treat them as trails – a marked or established path to be followed.
The entrance to the Masset Docks
The side of the docks
Masset docks
Masset Government Dock
Located at the end of Collison Avenue, just off Delkatla Street, the Masset Government Dock is the shortest of the three, at least as far as the “main finger” goes, clocking in at approximately 100 meters long. From here, you can get nice views of both Delkatla and Massett Inlets; watch the busy harbour activity below; and, if you’re lucky, spy a few ducks swimming along the harbour docks.
The main Government Dock is wheelchair accessible; however, I would suggest that the boat moorage areas are not quite as friendly. Of note, this dock does feature a lovely “Little Library.” Interestingly, just down the road from the Masset Government Dock is the Village of Masset Wharf.
Located at the end of Main Street, this wharf is just under 200 meters in length and provides nice views of Massett Inlet. In addition, there is a small path at the head of the wharf which provides beach access. Be warned that the wharf is very slippery in some sections.
Port Clements Government Dock
Located along Bayview Drive, the Port Clements Government Dock is approximately 200 meters in length; provides nice views of Massett Inlet; is wheelchair accessible; and, features a couple of benches at its end. One thing I liked about this dock is the creative birdhouse tree located just off to its right.
The views you can get from this dock on a clear day are nice, but the endless activity of our feathered friends in the birdhouse tree can keep one occupied for a long time! Also, this dock is nicely lit up with Christmas lights during the holiday season!
Queen Charlotte Government Dock
This “trail” technically begins at the Queen Charlotte Visitors Centre, takes you through Spirit Square, and then along Wharf Street onto the dock, which affords you nice views of the adjacent harbour and inlet. As the Port Clements dock it is approximately 200 meters in length. Part of this “trail” may be a bit confusing because the Queen Charlotte Seawalk also starts at the Visitor Centre; however, the Seawalk moves in the opposite direction of the Government Dock.
All in all, the three Government Docks provide for a fairly uniform, if not unremarkable, experience. Despite being categorized as trails you will not find any trailhead markers indicating as such, which hardly surprising given their function and purpose. Still, if you’re looking for a quick and easy walk-in Queen Charlotte, Port Clements, or Masset, these docks may suffice. What they may lack in excitement, they kind of makeup for with the scenery surrounding them.
The Secret Cove trail ends on this lovely beach that is worth a picnic! (Jul 2021)
The vast beach is ideal for mindful skinny dipping (Jul 2021)
The lush forest spills into a beach clearing (Jul 2021)
A bit of water systems and puddles greet you along the trail (Jul 2021)
The forest parts can be scenic with mossy trees and root systems (Jul 2021)
The bridge that takes you to the trail (Jul 2021)
TRAIL FEATURES · Remote cove · Nudist-friendly · Kunxalas Conservancy
ABOUT
The Secret Cove Trail is located within the Kunxalas Heritage Site along the northeast coast of Moresby Island. To access this remote trail, you must drive approximately 25km southeast of Sandspit along the Copper Bay Mainline, Spur 20 Road, and, finally, Gray Bay Road.
The signed trailhead for Secret Cove comes about 1km before the Gray Bay Recreation Site. Once you park your vehicle, it’s a brief 600-meter hike (one way) to the aptly named Secret Cove.
The trail is decently maintained and features a marker designed by the late Ben Davidson. These beautiful yellow, black and white markers serve a multitude of purposes: 1) They help to keep you on the right trail (an informal trail shoots off Secret Cove and heads toward Dogfish Bay); 2) They reflect Haida heritage and culture; and, 3) They reinforce, within us, important values that help contextualize the space we’re exploring.
We should note, too, that you’ll see these trail markers on other important routes around Haida Gwaii, including Louise Dover Trail, White Creek, Cape Fife, and Pesuta/East Beach.
Secret Cove Trail is relatively flat and an easy hike. After making your way through lush ferns, alders, and beautiful spruce trees, you’ll come upon the trail’s namesake cove. Once here, take a dip in the Pacific Ocean; however, we do advise you to keep your clothes on!
When our party hiked this route, we did come upon a couple of nudists and their dogs. I think we spoiled their fun because they left as soon as they saw us! Party poopers!
Of course, if swimming nude isn’t your thing, you can explore the rocky coastline at low tide and marvel at the smooth rocks and walls polished by intense wave action. It’s not unusual to come across large beds of blue mussels hugging the boulders in this area.
I think, by itself, Secret Cove is not worth the long drive and journey. Instead, I would pair it with a larger exploration of the Kunxalas Heritage Site. By doing so, you can camp at Gray Bay, enjoy the sandy beach, go kayaking and learn even more about the unique and rich history of this place and space.
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