Author: Robert Williams

  • Canoe or Rat Lake Trail- Ancient Haida Canoes and CMTs

    Canoe or Rat Lake Trail- Ancient Haida Canoes and CMTs

    Canoe or Rat Lake Trail

    Canoe or Rat Lake Trail

    TRAIL DETAILS

    FEATURES: Underground spring, unfinished Haida Canoes, CMTs

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate

    DISTANCE: ~700 m one way

    Time: ~25 minutes one way

    Route Type: Outโ€‘andโ€‘Back

    Elevation Gain: ~60 m

    Community: Port Clements

    GPS Coordinates: 53.581825, -132.16936

    SUMMARY

    Discover a short but meaningful forest hike leading to unfinished Haida canoes and culturally modified trees (CMTs)โ€” powerful reminders of the 1860s smallpox epidemic. This rough, unmarked trail just south of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy border offers a glimpse into Haida history, oldโ€‘growth cedar, and quiet bogโ€‘lake scenery, making it one of the most culturally significant short hikes on the islands.

  • Sleeping Beauty Trail – Hiking Kuu Jad TlldaGaaw Kโ€™yuu


    Sleeping Beauty Trail

    TRAIL DETAILS

    FEATURES: Fantastic view points, Challenging Slope sections

    NOTE: Cellular service is available for most of the hike, less at the trailhead.

    DIFFICULTY: Hard

    DISTANCE: 5.3 kilometres one-way

    Time: 3 hours one way

    Route Type: Outโ€‘andโ€‘Back

    Elevation Gain: 664 kilometres

    Community: Daajing Giids

    GPS Coordinates:53.261667, -132.215278

    SUMMARY

    A steep, rewarding climb above Daajing Giids, the Sleeping Beauty Trail leads to the ridge between Mount Slatechuck and Mount Raymond โ€” the mountains whose silhouette resembles a woman resting, giving the area its โ€œSleeping Beautyโ€ name. This challenging forest ascent offers big elevation, rugged terrain, and sweeping views over Skidegate Inlet, making it one of Haida Gwaiiโ€™s most iconic summit hikes.


  • Gregory Beach – A Beachcomberโ€™s Delight

    Gregory Beach – A Beachcomberโ€™s Delight

    • Gregory Beach
    • Gregory Beach
    • Gregory Beach
    • Gregory Beach
    • Gregory Beach

    Gregory Beach Features:
    Easy access to Gregory Creek
    Conehead view


    NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.


    ABOUT

    Located within the Duu Guusd Conservancy, Gregory Beach offers a lovely sand and pebble beach for
    those wishing to relax and experience the dynamic environment that is Haida Gwaiiโ€™s rugged west coast. At the beachโ€™s north end you will find Gregory Creek, which is home to spawning salmon in August and September. The small Gregory Beach campsite is located opposite the creek.

    As described by Haida Hereditary Chief Gidansda, Duu Guusd โ€œstands as a testament to the power of the earthโ€ and โ€œmaintains all of the elements that spawned the Haida cultural heritage.โ€ Indeed, the conservancy is huge, clocking in at 229,107 hectares in size (144,934 terrestrial and 84,173 foreshore), and stretching from the western side of Naden Harbour to Langara Island, and south to Rennell Sound. It should come as no surprise that Duu Guusd is an area rich in cultural values. 39 village sites or seasonal camps have been identified; 88 registered archaeological sites have been noted, including CMts, shell middens, habitation caves, burial sites, and blank canoes; the area is rich in unique geological formations from antiquity; and it is home to some of the most productive marine habitat on all of Haida Gwaii. The intertidal pools โ€“ prominent at the Conehead Recreational camping site โ€“ provide a beautiful and vivid example of this latter point.

    To reach Gregory Beach, and others in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.

    If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 13 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead signs for Five Mile Beach and Riley Creek before finally coming upon the Gregory Beach trailhead marker. There is a small pullout with enough room for two or three vehicles to park. Welcome to the Gregory Beach Trail!

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    The trail to Gregory Beach is brief at only 300 meters one-way. It should take approxim?ately 5 minutes to reach the beach. As you hike this brief path, which takes you through some nice shoreline forest, be cognizant of some muddy sections; otherwise, the single-file trail is mostly clear and an easy walk. It is also the only trail within Rennell Sound to feature the Ben Davidson Haida trail marker. Once you reach the beach, enjoy the rugged beauty of Haida Gwaiiโ€™s west coast: Surf the waves, swim in the ocean, comb the beach, or have a picnic (please pick up after yourself). As you relax in this oasis of calm, it is easy to lose all sense of time . . . and thatโ€™s okay.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 300 meters (one-way)
    TIME: 5 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Riley Creek Trail – A Hike Through Old Growth Forest on the West Coast of Haida Gwaii

    Riley Creek Trail – A Hike Through Old Growth Forest on the West Coast of Haida Gwaii

    • Riley Creek Trail
    • Riley Creek Trail
    • Riley Creek Trail
    • Riley Creek Trail

    Riley Creek Trail Features:
    Old Growth Trees
    Multiple access to Riley Creek
    Pristine beaches


    NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.


    ABOUT

    Located within Rennell Sound and the Duu Guusd Conservancy, the Riley Creek Trail offers hikers a substantive walk through riparian old growth forest, which terminates at a secluded sand and pebble beach. According to Dalzell, Riley Creek was named after the engineer who โ€œsurveyed the proposed railway route to the west coast of Graham Island.โ€ The trail is not formally maintained, so be prepared for potentially challenging conditions as a result of blowdown.

    To reach the Riley Creek Trail, and other trails in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.

    If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 12 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead sign for Five Mile Beach before coming upon the Riley Creek trailhead marker. There is a small pullout with enough room for two or three vehicles to park. Welcome to the Riley Creek Trail!

    As you get ready for the hike, you will undoubtedly read the information contained on the trailhead sign. Please note that key information on this board is incorrect. First, while the trail is marked throughout, the Ben Davidson trail marker is not used; rather, it is a mix of flagging tape ad orange squares. Second, the stated length of the trail โ€“ 2.3km one way โ€“ is off by a significant margin. Other sources indicate the route to be 2 kilometers, 5 kilometers and 10 kilometers one-way; however, none of these are correct. The actual length of the trail, one way, is 3.44 kilometers. As such, one should ensure theyโ€™ve brought sufficient water and snacks for this trek through the forest.

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    The Riley Creek Trail is the only substantive hiking trail within Rennell Sound where the trail itself functions as the attraction (with the other three, the trails are secondary to the beaches). While not formally maintained, the path is obvious and generally well-marked. When we hiked the route, there were only a couple of spots โ€“ just past the mid-way point โ€“ where we had to take a moment to locate the trail thanks to blowdown.

    As you hike the riparian wilderness, take time to appreciate the lush flora that surrounds you. Much of the Riley Creek route is covered in thick green moss, which gives the environment a fairy-like atmosphere. Combine this with the gentle lull of the creek and you have all the ingredients necessary for a relaxing stroll through Haida Gwaiiโ€™s rainforest.

    We should note that, even during dry conditions, parts of the trail can be quite miry. There are boardwalks and stepping blocks to assist with this, but even these should be used with caution. The boardwalks are old and some have been compromised; the stepping blocks, while solid, are extremely slippery and pose their own hazard. In addition, there are numerous sections of blowdown along the way. Most of it is minor and easy to navigate, but there are at least two areas with fairly significant deadfall on the trail: About 45 minutes in, while walking along a ridge, youโ€™ll notice a large spruce has toppled over and ripped out a large section of the trail. We briefly thought about turning around at this point, but carefully navigated around the fallen tree and returned to the trail. Then, about 40 minutes later, youโ€™ll come upon this area with a clutter of fallen alder and spruce. Itโ€™s easy enough to duck around these, but it does make the trail a little difficult to follow โ€“ at least momentarily.

    About 500 meters out from Riley Beach, the trail splits. At this point, you have the option of crossing Riley Creek and continuing along the southern side of the creek towards the beach OR staying on the north side of Riley Creek and continuing to the beach via this route. One should only cross Riley Creek when water levels are low. If you choose not to cross the creek, you will still get to the beach. After such a lengthy and somewhat challenging trek through the woods, Riley Beach provides the perfect spot for a bite to eat and re-charge before hiking back to your vehicle.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 3.44km (one-way)
    TIME: 5 hours (return)
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: 25 meters

  • Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove

    Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove

    • Yakoun Old Growth Spruce Grove
    • Yakoun Old Growth Spruce Grove
    • Yakoun Old Growth Spruce Grove

    Yakuon Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove Features:
    Yakuon River fishing spots
    Old growth trees

    ABOUT

    Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove – this grove of beautiful old growth trees is situated along the Yakoun River, near the โ€œ30 mileโ€ marker. Together these trees give a small glimpse of what was common place in Haida Gwaiiโ€™s forests before unfettered logging practices destroyed large areas of old growth on the archipelago.

    Perhaps the most famous of the old growth trees in this area is the one known as the โ€œBellis Spruce,โ€ which is named after Skil Qโ€™uas Dick Bellis. A self-described โ€œBSer,โ€ Mr. Bellis spent most of his working life in the forest industry as a heavy duty mechanic. He was also a notable carver. Perhaps his most well-known piece is an eagle sculpture carved in 1993 in memory of his brother, Ted. The eagle sculpture sat at Jungle Beach, next to the Black Bear, carved by Ted, until it mysteriously vanished in 2001 (the aging Black Bear vanished in 2023). Thought to be lost forever, the sculpture was found in Prince George in 2009 and returned to the Bellis family. In his later years, Dick Bellis served as a guide for tourists visiting Haida Gwaii. Along with jaunts to Rennell Sound, Bellis often took his guests to the Yakoun River to view the giant Sitka Spruce, which heโ€™d say was โ€œthe biggest tree theyโ€™ll ever see.โ€ And he was probably right.

    Estimated to be approximately 750 years old (BC Forest Services does not have an increment bore large enough for a more accurate age), with a circumference of 45 feet and a height of just over 68 metres, the โ€œBellis Spruceโ€ puts everything into perspective and highlights, in microcosm, the essence of Haida Gwaii. The giant Sitka Spruce gained significant attention in 2009 when it was officially recognized as the largest Sitka Spruce in BC โ€“ a title it held for a couple of years. Unfortunately, the โ€œBellis Spruceโ€ was declared dead in 2011; however, it is still standing and leaves those lucky enough to find it in awe.

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    There is no formal trailhead marker for this short trek into the Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove. If you wish to locate the Bellis Spruce and its surrounding grove of giants, you must drive approximately 30 kilometers outside of Daajing Giids along the QC Mainline logging road. At this point, the Yakoun River will be clearly visible on your RIGHT. Look for a suitable place to pull over, walk through the woods, and safely cross the Yakoun River. About a decade ago, a large log functioned as a natural โ€œbridge,โ€ but it has since washed away. As such, one should only try crossing the Yakoun when the river is low โ€“ typically during the late summer months.

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    As noted, this is not a formal trail of the Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove; however, you should see a vague path once you cross the river. It will lead you to an old de-activated road. The grove of old growth Spruce is facing the river. Take your time and explore these monumental trees. You will feel dwarfed in their presence, but this is forest therapy in the best sense of that term! Use caution as it is often difficult to see where you are stepping.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: Variable
    TIME: 30 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Tarundl Lookout Trail – Epic Views of the Tarundl Flats

    Tarundl Lookout Trail – Epic Views of the Tarundl Flats

    • Tarundl Lookout Trail
    • Tarundl Lookout Trail
    • Tarundl Lookout Trail
    • Tarundl Lookout Trail
    • Tarundl Lookout Trail
    • Tarundl Lookout Trail

    Tarundl Lookout Trail Features
    – Views of Bear Skin Bay
    -Challenging Rope Sections
    -View of the Tarundl Flats

    ABOUT

    The Tarundl Lookout Trail, located west of Daajing Giids (less than 10-minutes by car), and along the Honna Service road, you will find the Kagan Bay Day Use Recreation Site at about the 2-kilometer mark. The site features a picnic table, fire ring and beach access. At low tide, one could walk quite a distance onto the beach. Here you will also find the Tarundl Creek network of trails (see our earlier write-up here). It is also at this site where you can park your vehicle to begin a moderate-level hike towards an attractive and compelling lookout.

    TRAILHEAD

    Unlike the more popular Tarundl Creek loop trail, the Tarundl Lookout Trail does not have formal trailhead signage; however, it is easy enough to find:

    • Park your vehicle at the Kagan Bay Day Use Site.
    • Walk directly across the Honna Forest Service Road from the Day Use Site.
    • You should see some candy cane-patterned tree tape, which signifies the start of the trail.

    Welcome to the Tarundl Lookout Trail!

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    While the trail is fairly short at just over 1 kilometer in length, it is a steady uphill climb the entire way. The trail begins with a gentle slope, but this gets steeper further on. The route is a little rough, but is well marked with orange tree tape the entire way. Hiking through the ferns, young hemlock, and
    occasional spruce, the terrain reminds us of the Jags Trail @ Spirit Lake. As you hike, use caution because the trail is also muddy and slippery in some areas.

    Be prepared for six rope sections. Most of these are short, and designed to help you over minor obstacles, but the final two โ€“ just before you reach the zenith โ€“ are essential in helping you reach the viewpoint safely. Once at the top, follow the narrow trail to a couple of viewpoints of the Tarundl Flats
    and bays down below. Please use caution while you are here as there are no ropes in place as a safety measure. After taking in the view, return the way you came!

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.05 kilometers (one-way)
    TIME: 40 minutes (one-way)
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: 126 meters

  • Hiking the High Road – Hatchery Loop Trail

    Hiking the High Road – Hatchery Loop Trail

    • Hatchery Loop Trail
    • Hatchery Loop Trail
    • Hatchery Loop Trail
    • Hatchery Loop Trail
    • Hatchery Loop Trail

    Hatchery Loop Trail Features
    Connects to numerous trails in area
    Trailblazed by Remi Gauthier
    Old logging road

    ABOUT

    The Hatchery Loop Trail is another route developed by local hero and trail-builder, Remi Gauthier. The trail takes hikers along the โ€œhigh road,โ€ an old deactivated logging road, and gives the adventure-minded many options for completing the route: You can treat it as a large loop and come back hugging the highway; or, you can use the Hatchery Trail as a โ€œconnectorโ€ and branch out to other routes, including the Sachs Creek Trail, Around the Pond and Onward Point, amongst others.

    We initially came upon this trail by chance in the summer of 2022. En route to an enjoyable repast at Raincoast Breads, we spied a small white marker on the side of Alliford Bay Road denoting โ€œFish
    Hatchery Trail.โ€ We observed no safe place to park at the time given the marker was near a soft corner. It wasnโ€™t until the end of 2023, while reading the newly updated Sandspit Community Societyโ€™s โ€œHikes and walksโ€ page, that this trail starts near the Sandspit Salmon Enhancement Societyโ€™s hatchery building.

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    The trailhead marker for the Hatchery Loop Trail is fairly understated and is, therefore, somewhat easy to miss if youโ€™re not already looking for it. First, park your vehicle at the hatchery building. As per the Sandspit Community Society, โ€œ1 or 2 vehicles can park maxโ€ and โ€œPlease leave the hatchery accessible to volunteers and helpers.โ€ Once settled, walk back out onto the main highway and trek south (LEFT) for about 80 meters. At this point, you will see an old road to your left with a white rectangle marker on a nearby alder tree. Welcome to the start of the Hatchery Loop Trail!

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    Most of the route follows a deactivated logging road; so, itโ€™s fairly easygoing. It had snowed the night before our planned hike; as a result, much of the road was covered in a thin layer of snow and ice but this did not detract from the experience. Just a few feet in from the trailhead, you will note a series of
    white markers: Some pointing east and others pointing south. Going south will take you along a rough, but short trail to what weโ€™ve called the Sandspit Waterfall. Trekking east will continue taking you along the Fish Hatchery route.

    At about the 200-meter mark, you will see another directional trail marker. It points north (or LEFT) to โ€œJasonโ€™s Mill Rdโ€ and south (or RIGHT) to Sachs Creek. Walking south for about a kilometre will
    eventually connect you to the informal Sachs Creek Trail; however, if you wish to hike the Hatchery Trail, you must trek north along โ€œJasonโ€™s Mill Rd,โ€ also known as the โ€œhigh road.โ€ From this point, you follow the old road north for just over 3.5 kilometres. The hike is easy โ€“ peaceful โ€“ and takes you through a variety of forests and trees, though the primary types observed include alder and spruce trees. The hike promised โ€œsome views of Skidegate Inlet through the trees,โ€ but we did not observe this at any point because the trees along the road, and on the forest trail, were too dense.

    While the hike is pretty straightforward, we do recommend hiking this route with an app like BRMB. Once you start trekking north from the โ€œJasonโ€™s Mill Rdโ€ marker, there are no further trail markers along
    the route until youโ€™re about ready to re-emerge onto the highway and shoreline. The app will help you stay on the correct road โ€“ there are at least four โ€œforksโ€ along the trail that could potentially lead you astray (the last of these is another โ€œconnectorโ€ towards the Around the Pond/Onward Point network of
    trails).

    According to the map available on the Sandspit Community Society webpage, there are two options for completing the loop trail: A forest hike that hugs the highway or a much easier trek along the shoreline.
    We chose the latter as we were unable to locate any trail markers for the forest route. In any event, as you complete the loop along the shoreline, you will spy at least two โ€œFish Hatcheryโ€ trail signs along the Highway โ€“ these take you through the forest, re-connecting to the old road. Regardless of which route you take, you will end up back at the fish hatchery!

    Note: The Hatchery Loop Trail route is outlined on Gaia GPS. You can view the route online by activating โ€œpublic trailsโ€ on the Gaia GPS website. Unfortunately, as of 2024, the โ€œOverlaysโ€ function does not appear to include โ€œpublic trailsโ€ in the app version of Gaia GPS anymore.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 7km
    TIME: 2 hours
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: 73 meters

  • Within Reach – Moresby Waterfall Trail

    Within Reach – Moresby Waterfall Trail

    • Moresby Waterfall Trail
    • Moresby Waterfall Trail
    • Moresby Waterfall Trail
    • Moresby Waterfall Trail

    Moresby Waterfall Trail Feature:
    Along the highway access
    Less than five minutes hike
    Gorgeous waterfall

    ABOUT

    The Moresby Waterfall Trail first came to our attention a couple of years ago. We were given a map of Moresby-area trails and one of them identified a โ€œwaterfallโ€ just off the side of the highway between the BC Ferries waiting area and Sandspit. Eager to explore and find this waterfall, we set out in mid-Autumn 2021.

    Unfortunately, the coordinates were a little off and we just ended up trudging through the bush before calling it a day and photographing Fall foliage in Sandspit as a consolation prize. Fast-forward to the end of 2023.

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    Haida Gwaii had endured a series of winter storms, which took down several trees. As we drove towards Sandspit, we spied a glimpse of the waterfall from the road! Deciding the hike wouldnโ€™t be long (nothing more than a few minutes), we pulled off to the side of the road and hiked the short trail toward what weโ€™ve called the Moresby Waterfall.

    There are no notable landmarks to help identify where the trailhead is. If youโ€™re not already looking for it, chances are youโ€™ll drive right on by. Once you park safely off the side of the road, you should spy two alder trees behind a group of feisty ferns. One of the trees features a double white diamond marking with some yellow tape attached to the lower diamond. Welcome to the Moresby Waterfall trailhead!

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    Surprisingly, the short trail is denoted with white diamond-shaped markers all the way through, which leads us to believe this route was created by local trailblazer Remi. Follow the white markers the length of the trail towards the waterfall. At about the mid-way point, there is an option to cross a small creek and visit the eastern side of the waterfall; however, because we lacked proper footwear (this was an
    impromptu stop), we opted to stay on the western side of the creek. After walking a mere five minutes, your efforts are rewarded with a beautiful cascading waterfall โ€“ up close and personal. Just be sure to use caution when walking the path near the waterfall as it is quite slippery and muddy.

    The trail, while very short, is informal and user-maintained. There is plenty of deadfall to navigate en route to the falls; however, it is nothing major. While here, take a few moments to enjoy the slight rumble of the falls and the comforting silence of the forest that surrounds you. Forest therapy 101!

    Note: The waterfall may not be as prominent during extended periods of drought.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 180 meters (one-way)
    TIME: 10 minutes (return)
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal

  • A Short Hike to Small Lake

    A Short Hike to Small Lake

    • Small Lake
    • Small Lake
    • Small Lake
    • Small Lake
    • Small Lake

    Small Lake Features:
    Boggy explorations
    Old Forest Fire Remnants
    A most likely Elks’ destination

    ABOUT

    Small Lake came to our attention after perusing an early edition of Fern Hendersonโ€™s Trail Hikes and
    Beach Walks
    . We got curious about this trail because it is not mentioned in the Haida Gwaii Trails
    Strategy
    (2011), nor is it mentioned in the last edition of Fern Hendersonโ€™s text (2005). Thus, we made it
    a point to explore this hike and see if the trail still existed since โ€“ we presumed โ€“ it probably was not
    being maintained.

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    Getting to Small Lake can be a little tricky: Drive west of Daajing Giids along the Honna Forest Service Road. Follow the Honna FSR north, past the Sleeping Beauty trail signage. The road gets fairly steep, so make sure you are driving a truck or capable SUV. A small car will not be able to complete the drive.

    After driving for approximately 9.23 kilometres, or 20 minutes, you should notice a fairly obvious pullout to your RIGHT. We came upon this quite by chance. As we were driving up the narrow road, we spied what looked like an old spur road and assumed thatโ€™s where weโ€™d have to walk to find Small Lake. We drove a few feet further and saw the pullout โ€“ thatโ€™s when we saw the unmarked trailhead! Talk about a stroke of luck!

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    The trail to Small Lake is unmarked, but obvious, and takes about 10 minutes to complete. It is single- track and muddy, so one should use caution. The environment is one of young Sitka Spruce, some moss, huckleberry bushes, and other flora typical of a bog environment. Once you arrive at Small Lake, the grounds are soggy (bog), but dense with Labrador Tea and sundews. In early editions of Trail Hikes and Beach Walks, Fern Henderson notes that Small Lake is โ€œan interpretive circle walk [. . .] through virgin forest.โ€ The brochure she mentions is long gone, but it is still possible to walk a circle around the lake.

    The trail around Small Lake has been completely overgrown, but it is possible to identify the odd white trail marker on dead cedars that are still standing. At the time we did our hike, we only walked about halfway around the lake before turning around due to torrential rains. Given the size of Small Lake, we would anticipate it would take no more than 35-40 minutes to complete the circle.

    At the time Fern Henderson wrote her text (1978), she noted the lake was a popular place for swimming, fishing, berry-picking and picnicking. While one can certainly still do those things, itโ€™s probably not a beehive of activity these days; however, it is obvious that somebody still uses Small Lake as a recreational site. When we visited, there was clear evidence of a recent campfire and a small boat nearby.

    Of note: Elk appear to frequent the area. As we ambled about the lake, we spied numerous elk droppings along the boggy ground.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 190 meters (one-way)
    TIME: 20 minutes (return)
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal

  • Gold Creek Trail – Walking along Placid Waters

    Gold Creek Trail – Walking along Placid Waters

    • Gold Creek Trail
    • Gold Creek Trail
    • Gold Creek Trail
    • Gold Creek Trail

    Gold Creek Trail Features:
    Muskeg terrain and flora
    Winding creek
    Entry to Mayer Lake
    Homestead remnants


    NOTE: Gold Creek often floods during the wet season, making the route inaccessible. We, therefore, recommend it as a summer-only hike.


    ABOUT

    Gold Creek Trail meanders through Muskeg, crosses the highway between Tlell and Port Clements (the old โ€œMexican Tom Trailโ€), and eventually flows into the south end of Mayer Lake via the Mayer River. The trail is informal โ€“ unmarked โ€“ and is typically begun at the Mayer Lake Day Use area; however, we decided to go against the grain and commenced our hike of this informal route at the โ€œGold Creekโ€ bridge, just along Highway 16.

    WHY GOLD CREEK TRAIL?

    Unfortunately, youโ€™re not too likely to find any gold along the banks of Gold Creek. According to Dalzell (1973), the name โ€œGold Creekโ€ is simply a carry-over from the days when the Mayer River โ€“ which youโ€™ll also pass by before reaching the south end of Mayer Lake โ€“ was called โ€œGold Creekโ€ after an old prospector believed heโ€™d found gold at the riverโ€™s mouth. The ungazetted name was given a bit of official status after the Department of Highways immortalized it on their bridge signage.

    THE HIKE

    We parked our vehicle on the shoulder at Gold Creek Bridge and started hiking on the west (LEFT) side of the creek. As noted above, the trail is informal and sans marker, but all you have to do is follow the creek until you reach the south end of Mayer Lake. The area around the creek is delicate muskeg, so a good pair of boots or waterproof shoes is recommended.

    As you amble about the meandering creek, pay close attention to the fragile environment in which youโ€™re walking: Labrador Tea, Sundews and other bog flora are not uncommon. Quite early on in the hike โ€“ at around the 10-minute mark โ€“ you will also spy two fence posts, from days gone by, on either side of the creek. We wonder what these were used for.

    After about an hour, we reached the โ€œjunctionโ€ where Gold Creek meets the Mayer River. At this point in the hike, you enter a small forested area before re-emerging at the point where the Mayer River meets the south end of Mayer Lake. As you walk along the shore of Mayer Lake, an actual trail is finally visible. You will also likely notice some deer exclosures on the forested side (to your left). These are quite new, having been installed in 2022 in an effort to restore and protect kโ€™ay trees (Crab apple) โ€“ the only native fruit trees on Haida Gwaii.

    We concluded our hike at the Mayer Lake Day Use Area just as the sun was setting. The serene calm was interrupted by a beaver splashing its tail in the lake. To save time, we walked back along the dirt road and along the highway to our vehicle at the Gold Creek Bridge.

    Of course, most people who choose to do this hike are more likely to begin at the Mayer Lake Day Use Area. In that case, once you reach the Gold Creek Bridge, you can simply return the way you came or walk back to the Day Use site via the Highway. Regardless of where you begin, we encourage you to take your time along the banks of the creek: The environment is so unique and so calm that one cannot help but admire the natural beauty that surrounds you. On a clear day, the waters of Gold Creek resemble that of a mirror!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.8km (one-way)
    TIME: 1 hour and 20 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None