We came upon Smugglers Cove quite by accident. We were en route to the Kwuna Point Trail when we spied this lovely little cove just 250 meters up Kwuna Point Road in Sandspit. You’ll see a small pullout suitable for one vehicle when you reach it. With its serene and peaceful setting, it called to us; thus, after hiking Kwuna Point, we decided to enjoy a few moments of zen at Smugglers Cove.
As noted, Smugglers Cove is tiny but its ease of access makes it far more attractive, in our view than the more popular Secret Cove. Smugglers Cove is literally right off the road whereas, with Secret Cove, you have to drive nearly an hour on rough logging roads and then hike a short trail. Its physical geography is also similar to that of Secret Cove: The beach is primarily made up of small stones while each side of the cove features a rocky shoreline replete with a variety of stunning sea life. Keep an eye peeled for small beach crabs! Smugglers Cove is also home to some old cabin remnants, which makes for a unique photo opportunity!
While it is possible to take a dip in the ocean, we think Smugglers Cove is far more suitable for a picnic or relaxation on the pebbly beach. The cold water from the open ocean can be challenging if you do not have a wetsuit even on a hot summer day. It is also recommended you have a pair of strong sandals when dipping in the water as the sharp little rocks can be hard to navigate. As you sit here and marvel at Haida Gwaii’s natural beauty, you just might spy “Remi’s Cabin” in the distance!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: N/A TIME: N/A TYPE: Beach walk ELEVATION GAIN: None
The Three Mile Creek trail is showing a bit of erosion
There are some minimal trail markers but the safe route is to follow the creek back to the bridge
The creek has a lot of dead falls and flooding debris
THREE MILE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES: Salmon spawning creek Cascade Tlall Conservancy
ABOUT
The Three Mile Creek Trail is found deep within the Tlall Conservancy. Accessing it in the current day requires a bit of effort because the original point of entry – Survey Forest Service Road – was formally decommissioned in 2016 after years of disuse.
Now, if you wish to visit this trail, you’ll have to drive nearly 1.5 hours along the Daajing Giids backroads: First, drive approximately 20 minutes along the QC Mainline (passing the decommissioned Survey Forest Service Road) until you come upon the un-signed junction for Lakes Main Road to your RIGHT.
Take this turn and follow Lakes Main for nearly an hour – you will eventually connect to what’s left of the Survey Forest Service Road. Once here, you’ll spy a bridge that crosses Three Mile Creek.
If you’ve come all this way to hike the trail, do NOT cross the bridge because the unsigned trailhead for Three Mile Creek Trail is just before the bridge on your RIGHT.
Lack of maintenance for nearly two decades has made the route difficult to see but the faint outline of a trail is there. Descend the minor slope and begin your trek!
In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Three Mile Creek Trail – along with the nearby Monique Creek Trail – was promoted in an interpretive booklet by the Tlell Watershed Society. Evidence of their “wilderness interpretive route” narrative can still be found near the start of the trail. Look up at an alder tree near the Three Mile Creek bridge – you’ll spy signage explaining the creek’s role as an important area for spawning coho and steelhead salmon. I suspect there were more signs like this along the trail, but we didn’t see any on our hike. Time and the elements have likely eliminated them.
While the trail is only 1 kilometre in length, expect to take at least an hour to complete the full route. Three Mile Creek hasn’t seen any maintenance for nearly 2 decades – well before the decommissioning of Survey Forest Road – and it shows. Almost right out of the gate, the trail is difficult to find and follow.
The path is mostly overgrown and significant deadfall litters the trail. The odd trail marker can still be found, and they help somewhat, but we still lost the trail for brief moments. I guess the best thing to keep in mind is that the route basically follows Three Mile Creek for its duration.
As we hiked along the creek, we admired the old-growth Sitka Spruce and Red Cedar. We did not encounter any wildlife; however, we did spy on elk tracks and bear dung along the way.
Why might someone wish to come into the backcountry and hike this trail? I can posit a couple of reasons: 1) To explore an important tributary to the Tlell River Watershed; and, 2) To probe deeper into the Tlall Conservancy beyond what’s available near the community of Tlell. Either way, getting here and hiking the trail are certainly adventures in their own right!
DIFFICULTY: Moderate TOTAL DISTANCE: 2km (return) TIME: Approximately 2 hours, depending on skill level TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
GOVERNMENT DOCKS FEATURES: Family-friendly Views of Masset & Skidegate Inlets Urban hike
ABOUT
It might seem silly to write about the three Haida Gwaii Government Docks as trails – and believe me, I do feel kind of silly – but they are identified as “trails” in the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy document (2011). I suspect this was probably done for funding purposes and to inflate the number of trails on the archipelago, though I’m not sure why one would need to do that. Even if we went for a very loose definition of what constitutes a “trail,” I somehow doubt these would make the cut; after all, they are, as their name explicitly states, docks.
But let’s ignore that for a moment. Let’s presuppose that these three docks don’t just serve a specific function (as a place for boats to moor). Instead, let’s treat them as trails – a marked or established path to be followed.
The entrance to the Masset Docks
The side of the docks
Masset docks
Masset Government Dock
Located at the end of Collison Avenue, just off Delkatla Street, the Masset Government Dock is the shortest of the three, at least as far as the “main finger” goes, clocking in at approximately 100 meters long. From here, you can get nice views of both Delkatla and Massett Inlets; watch the busy harbour activity below; and, if you’re lucky, spy a few ducks swimming along the harbour docks.
The main Government Dock is wheelchair accessible; however, I would suggest that the boat moorage areas are not quite as friendly. Of note, this dock does feature a lovely “Little Library.” Interestingly, just down the road from the Masset Government Dock is the Village of Masset Wharf.
Located at the end of Main Street, this wharf is just under 200 meters in length and provides nice views of Massett Inlet. In addition, there is a small path at the head of the wharf which provides beach access. Be warned that the wharf is very slippery in some sections.
Port Clements Government Dock
Located along Bayview Drive, the Port Clements Government Dock is approximately 200 meters in length; provides nice views of Massett Inlet; is wheelchair accessible; and, features a couple of benches at its end. One thing I liked about this dock is the creative birdhouse tree located just off to its right.
The views you can get from this dock on a clear day are nice, but the endless activity of our feathered friends in the birdhouse tree can keep one occupied for a long time! Also, this dock is nicely lit up with Christmas lights during the holiday season!
Queen Charlotte Government Dock
This “trail” technically begins at the Queen Charlotte Visitors Centre, takes you through Spirit Square, and then along Wharf Street onto the dock, which affords you nice views of the adjacent harbour and inlet. As the Port Clements dock it is approximately 200 meters in length. Part of this “trail” may be a bit confusing because the Queen Charlotte Seawalk also starts at the Visitor Centre; however, the Seawalk moves in the opposite direction of the Government Dock.
All in all, the three Government Docks provide for a fairly uniform, if not unremarkable, experience. Despite being categorized as trails you will not find any trailhead markers indicating as such, which hardly surprising given their function and purpose. Still, if you’re looking for a quick and easy walk-in Queen Charlotte, Port Clements, or Masset, these docks may suffice. What they may lack in excitement, they kind of makeup for with the scenery surrounding them.
The Secret Cove trail ends on this lovely beach that is worth a picnic! (Jul 2021)
The vast beach is ideal for mindful skinny dipping (Jul 2021)
The lush forest spills into a beach clearing (Jul 2021)
A bit of water systems and puddles greet you along the trail (Jul 2021)
The forest parts can be scenic with mossy trees and root systems (Jul 2021)
The bridge that takes you to the trail (Jul 2021)
SECRET COVE TRAIL FEATURES Remote cove Nudist-friendly Kunxalas Conservancy
ABOUT
The Secret Cove Trail is located within the Kunxalas Heritage Site along the northeast coast of Moresby Island. To access this remote trail, you must drive approximately 25km southeast of Sandspit along the Copper Bay Mainline, Spur 20 Road, and, finally, Gray Bay Road.
The signed trailhead for Secret Cove comes about 1km before the Gray Bay Recreation Site. Once you park your vehicle, it’s a brief 600-meter hike (one way) to the aptly named Secret Cove.
The trail is decently maintained and features a marker designed by the late Ben Davidson. These beautiful yellow, black and white markers serve a multitude of purposes: 1) They help to keep you on the right trail (an informal trail shoots off Secret Cove and heads toward Dogfish Bay); 2) They reflect Haida heritage and culture; and, 3) They reinforce, within us, important values that help contextualize the space we’re exploring.
We should note, too, that you’ll see these trail markers on other important routes around Haida Gwaii, including Louise Dover Trail, White Creek, Cape Fife, and Pesuta/East Beach.
Secret Cove Trail is relatively flat and an easy hike. After making your way through lush ferns, alders, and beautiful spruce trees, you’ll come upon the trail’s namesake cove. Once here, take a dip in the Pacific Ocean; however, we do advise you to keep your clothes on!
When our party hiked this route, we did come upon a couple of nudists and their dogs. I think we spoiled their fun because they left as soon as they saw us! Party poopers!
Of course, if swimming nude isn’t your thing, you can explore the rocky coastline at low tide and marvel at the smooth rocks and walls polished by intense wave action. It’s not unusual to come across large beds of blue mussels hugging the boulders in this area.
I think, by itself, Secret Cove is not worth the long drive and journey. Instead, I would pair it with a larger exploration of the Kunxalas Heritage Site. By doing so, you can camp at Gray Bay, enjoy the sandy beach, go kayaking and learn even more about the unique and rich history of this place and space.
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