Discover a short but meaningful forest hike leading to unfinished Haida canoes and culturally modified trees (CMTs)— powerful reminders of the 1860s smallpox epidemic. This rough, unmarked trail just south of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy border offers a glimpse into Haida history, old‑growth cedar, and quiet bog‑lake scenery, making it one of the most culturally significant short hikes on the islands.
NOTE: Cellular service is available for most of the hike, less at the trailhead.
DIFFICULTY: Hard
DISTANCE: 5.3 kilometres one-way
Time: 3 hours one way
Route Type: Out‑and‑Back
Elevation Gain: 664 kilometres
Community: Daajing Giids
GPS Coordinates:53.261667, -132.215278
SUMMARY
A steep, rewarding climb above Daajing Giids, the Sleeping Beauty Trail leads to the ridge between Mount Slatechuck and Mount Raymond — the mountains whose silhouette resembles a woman resting, giving the area its “Sleeping Beauty” name. This challenging forest ascent offers big elevation, rugged terrain, and sweeping views over Skidegate Inlet, making it one of Haida Gwaii’s most iconic summit hikes.
An easy beachwalk with access to the clear waters of Gregory Creek at the end
The mossy forest short trail towards Gregory Beach
Gregory Beach at eye level with its pebbly beach
Gregory Beach Features: Easy access to Gregory Creek Conehead view
NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.
ABOUT
Located within the Duu Guusd Conservancy, Gregory Beach offers a lovely sand and pebble beach for those wishing to relax and experience the dynamic environment that is Haida Gwaii’s rugged west coast. At the beach’s north end you will find Gregory Creek, which is home to spawning salmon in August and September. The small Gregory Beach campsite is located opposite the creek.
As described by Haida Hereditary Chief Gidansda, Duu Guusd “stands as a testament to the power of the earth” and “maintains all of the elements that spawned the Haida cultural heritage.” Indeed, the conservancy is huge, clocking in at 229,107 hectares in size (144,934 terrestrial and 84,173 foreshore), and stretching from the western side of Naden Harbour to Langara Island, and south to Rennell Sound. It should come as no surprise that Duu Guusd is an area rich in cultural values. 39 village sites or seasonal camps have been identified; 88 registered archaeological sites have been noted, including CMts, shell middens, habitation caves, burial sites, and blank canoes; the area is rich in unique geological formations from antiquity; and it is home to some of the most productive marine habitat on all of Haida Gwaii. The intertidal pools – prominent at the Conehead Recreational camping site – provide a beautiful and vivid example of this latter point.
To reach Gregory Beach, and others in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.
If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 13 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead signs for Five Mile Beach and Riley Creek before finally coming upon the Gregory Beach trailhead marker. There is a small pullout with enough room for two or three vehicles to park. Welcome to the Gregory Beach Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
The trail to Gregory Beach is brief at only 300 meters one-way. It should take approxim?ately 5 minutes to reach the beach. As you hike this brief path, which takes you through some nice shoreline forest, be cognizant of some muddy sections; otherwise, the single-file trail is mostly clear and an easy walk. It is also the only trail within Rennell Sound to feature the Ben Davidson Haida trail marker. Once you reach the beach, enjoy the rugged beauty of Haida Gwaii’s west coast: Surf the waves, swim in the ocean, comb the beach, or have a picnic (please pick up after yourself). As you relax in this oasis of calm, it is easy to lose all sense of time . . . and that’s okay.
The flat beach on the left and the rocky beach on the right
The clear calming sound of Riley Creek along the trail
Mossy section of the trail
Riley Creek spilling into the sea
Riley Creek Trail Features: Old Growth Trees Multiple access to Riley Creek Pristine beaches
NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.
ABOUT
Located within Rennell Sound and the Duu Guusd Conservancy, the Riley Creek Trail offers hikers a substantive walk through riparian old growth forest, which terminates at a secluded sand and pebble beach. According to Dalzell, Riley Creek was named after the engineer who “surveyed the proposed railway route to the west coast of Graham Island.” The trail is not formally maintained, so be prepared for potentially challenging conditions as a result of blowdown.
To reach the Riley Creek Trail, and other trails in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.
If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 12 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead sign for Five Mile Beach before coming upon the Riley Creek trailhead marker. There is a small pullout with enough room for two or three vehicles to park. Welcome to the Riley Creek Trail!
As you get ready for the hike, you will undoubtedly read the information contained on the trailhead sign. Please note that key information on this board is incorrect. First, while the trail is marked throughout, the Ben Davidson trail marker is not used; rather, it is a mix of flagging tape ad orange squares. Second, the stated length of the trail – 2.3km one way – is off by a significant margin. Other sources indicate the route to be 2 kilometers, 5 kilometers and 10 kilometers one-way; however, none of these are correct. The actual length of the trail, one way, is 3.44 kilometers. As such, one should ensure they’ve brought sufficient water and snacks for this trek through the forest.
HIKING THE TRAIL
The Riley Creek Trail is the only substantive hiking trail within Rennell Sound where the trail itself functions as the attraction (with the other three, the trails are secondary to the beaches). While not formally maintained, the path is obvious and generally well-marked. When we hiked the route, there were only a couple of spots – just past the mid-way point – where we had to take a moment to locate the trail thanks to blowdown.
As you hike the riparian wilderness, take time to appreciate the lush flora that surrounds you. Much of the Riley Creek route is covered in thick green moss, which gives the environment a fairy-like atmosphere. Combine this with the gentle lull of the creek and you have all the ingredients necessary for a relaxing stroll through Haida Gwaii’s rainforest.
We should note that, even during dry conditions, parts of the trail can be quite miry. There are boardwalks and stepping blocks to assist with this, but even these should be used with caution. The boardwalks are old and some have been compromised; the stepping blocks, while solid, are extremely slippery and pose their own hazard. In addition, there are numerous sections of blowdown along the way. Most of it is minor and easy to navigate, but there are at least two areas with fairly significant deadfall on the trail: About 45 minutes in, while walking along a ridge, you’ll notice a large spruce has toppled over and ripped out a large section of the trail. We briefly thought about turning around at this point, but carefully navigated around the fallen tree and returned to the trail. Then, about 40 minutes later, you’ll come upon this area with a clutter of fallen alder and spruce. It’s easy enough to duck around these, but it does make the trail a little difficult to follow – at least momentarily.
About 500 meters out from Riley Beach, the trail splits. At this point, you have the option of crossing Riley Creek and continuing along the southern side of the creek towards the beach OR staying on the north side of Riley Creek and continuing to the beach via this route. One should only cross Riley Creek when water levels are low. If you choose not to cross the creek, you will still get to the beach. After such a lengthy and somewhat challenging trek through the woods, Riley Beach provides the perfect spot for a bite to eat and re-charge before hiking back to your vehicle.
NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.
ABOUT
Located within Rennell Sound and the Duu Guusd Conservancy, Bonanza Beach offers perhaps the finest sandy beach on all of Haida Gwaii. At the beach’s south end you will find Bonanza Creek, which is home to spawning salmon in August and September. While remote and difficult to get to, Bonanza Beach is worth the effort and should be on everybody’s Haida Gwaii-themed bucket list.
If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound.
You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade (one of the steepest public roads in all of Canada). While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 14 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead signs for Five Mile Beach, Riley Creek and Gregory Beach before coming upon the Bonanza River Bridge. While the bridge has been closed since August 2022 “for safety issues,” locals have pushed the barricade aside to allow for vehicle access. The bridge remains structurally sound but, for those wishing to err on the side of caution, you can park your vehicle here and walk the 650 meters to the Bonanza Beach trailhead. Welcome to the Bonanza Beach Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
The trail to Bonanza Beach is brief @ only 400 meters one-way. As you hike towards the beach, you will be treated to second-growth forest, giant spruce burls, dense salal, and some beautiful old growth cedars as you approach the beach. It should take less than ten minutes for one to reach one of Haida Gwaii’s crown jewels: Bonanza Beach.
Once you emerge from the dense salal, it’s easy to see why the Daily Hive (2018), Love Exploring (2021) and MSN (2023), amongst others, have all listed Bonanza Beach as one of the top beaches in Canada. With its attractive crescent shape, Bonanza Beach is exposed to the powerful waves of the open Pacific Ocean. The relentless wave action has resulted in some of the finest sand on any beach in the world. It has also made this area attractive for surfers and beachcombers. Because Bonanza Beach is quite literally the “last stop” on the way to Japan, it is not uncommon to find unique items along Bonanza’s shore, including the much sought after glass floats from Japanese fishing vessels.
Lastly, we’d be remiss if we failed to mention the tidal pools: On very low tides, Bonanza Beach is home to many attractive tidal pools, each teaming with life, including colourful sea anemones, beach crabs, mussels, life-giving seaweed and kelp. Indeed, the tidal pools offer a stunning microcosm of Duu Guusd’s complex and rich marine environment.
Bonanza Beach is – undoubtedly – a special place. For us, it highlights some of the best to be found within Duu Guusd: A short hiking trail with second and old growth forest; Haida cultural values; pristine beaches; epic views of Conehead and the open Pacific; and bountiful marine life, including salmon, King Fishers, bald eagles and even the odd seal. Having the opportunity to relax on the beach or swim in the ocean is just the icing on the cake.
The 2009 title holder for biggest Sitka Spruce in BC
Yakuon River inviting you to fish
One of the trees in the grove dwarfing some hiking companions
Yakuon Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove Features: Yakuon River fishing spots Old growth trees
ABOUT
Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove – this grove of beautiful old growth trees is situated along the Yakoun River, near the “30 mile” marker. Together these trees give a small glimpse of what was common place in Haida Gwaii’s forests before unfettered logging practices destroyed large areas of old growth on the archipelago.
Perhaps the most famous of the old growth trees in this area is the one known as the “Bellis Spruce,” which is named after Skil Q’uas Dick Bellis. A self-described “BSer,” Mr. Bellis spent most of his working life in the forest industry as a heavy duty mechanic. He was also a notable carver. Perhaps his most well-known piece is an eagle sculpture carved in 1993 in memory of his brother, Ted. The eagle sculpture sat at Jungle Beach, next to the Black Bear, carved by Ted, until it mysteriously vanished in 2001 (the aging Black Bear vanished in 2023). Thought to be lost forever, the sculpture was found in Prince George in 2009 and returned to the Bellis family. In his later years, Dick Bellis served as a guide for tourists visiting Haida Gwaii. Along with jaunts to Rennell Sound, Bellis often took his guests to the Yakoun River to view the giant Sitka Spruce, which he’d say was “the biggest tree they’ll ever see.” And he was probably right.
Estimated to be approximately 750 years old (BC Forest Services does not have an increment bore large enough for a more accurate age), with a circumference of 45 feet and a height of just over 68 metres, the “Bellis Spruce” puts everything into perspective and highlights, in microcosm, the essence of Haida Gwaii. The giant Sitka Spruce gained significant attention in 2009 when it was officially recognized as the largest Sitka Spruce in BC – a title it held for a couple of years. Unfortunately, the “Bellis Spruce” was declared dead in 2011; however, it is still standing and leaves those lucky enough to find it in awe.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
There is no formal trailhead marker for this short trek into the Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove. If you wish to locate the Bellis Spruce and its surrounding grove of giants, you must drive approximately 30 kilometers outside of Daajing Giids along the QC Mainline logging road. At this point, the Yakoun River will be clearly visible on your RIGHT. Look for a suitable place to pull over, walk through the woods, and safely cross the Yakoun River. About a decade ago, a large log functioned as a natural “bridge,” but it has since washed away. As such, one should only try crossing the Yakoun when the river is low – typically during the late summer months.
HIKING THE TRAIL
As noted, this is not a formal trail of the Yakoun Old Growth Sitka Spruce Grove; however, you should see a vague path once you cross the river. It will lead you to an old de-activated road. The grove of old growth Spruce is facing the river. Take your time and explore these monumental trees. You will feel dwarfed in their presence, but this is forest therapy in the best sense of that term! Use caution as it is often difficult to see where you are stepping.
Tarundl Lookout Trail Features – Views of Bear Skin Bay -Challenging Rope Sections -View of the Tarundl Flats
ABOUT
The Tarundl Lookout Trail, located west of Daajing Giids (less than 10-minutes by car), and along the Honna Service road, you will find the Kagan Bay Day Use Recreation Site at about the 2-kilometer mark. The site features a picnic table, fire ring and beach access. At low tide, one could walk quite a distance onto the beach. Here you will also find the Tarundl Creek network of trails (see our earlier write-up here). It is also at this site where you can park your vehicle to begin a moderate-level hike towards an attractive and compelling lookout.
TRAILHEAD
Unlike the more popular Tarundl Creek loop trail, the Tarundl Lookout Trail does not have formal trailhead signage; however, it is easy enough to find:
Park your vehicle at the Kagan Bay Day Use Site.
Walk directly across the Honna Forest Service Road from the Day Use Site.
You should see some candy cane-patterned tree tape, which signifies the start of the trail.
Welcome to the Tarundl Lookout Trail!
HIKING THE TRAIL
While the trail is fairly short at just over 1 kilometer in length, it is a steady uphill climb the entire way. The trail begins with a gentle slope, but this gets steeper further on. The route is a little rough, but is well marked with orange tree tape the entire way. Hiking through the ferns, young hemlock, and occasional spruce, the terrain reminds us of the Jags Trail @ Spirit Lake. As you hike, use caution because the trail is also muddy and slippery in some areas.
Be prepared for six rope sections. Most of these are short, and designed to help you over minor obstacles, but the final two – just before you reach the zenith – are essential in helping you reach the viewpoint safely. Once at the top, follow the narrow trail to a couple of viewpoints of the Tarundl Flats and bays down below. Please use caution while you are here as there are no ropes in place as a safety measure. After taking in the view, return the way you came!
The forest hides the waterfall from view when the foliage grows
A closer look of the waterfall
Moresby Waterfall Trail Feature: Along the highway access Less than five minutes hike Gorgeous waterfall
ABOUT
The Moresby Waterfall Trail first came to our attention a couple of years ago. We were given a map of Moresby-area trails and one of them identified a “waterfall” just off the side of the highway between the BC Ferries waiting area and Sandspit. Eager to explore and find this waterfall, we set out in mid-Autumn 2021.
Unfortunately, the coordinates were a little off and we just ended up trudging through the bush before calling it a day and photographing Fall foliage in Sandspit as a consolation prize. Fast-forward to the end of 2023.
LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD
Haida Gwaii had endured a series of winter storms, which took down several trees. As we drove towards Sandspit, we spied a glimpse of the waterfall from the road! Deciding the hike wouldn’t be long (nothing more than a few minutes), we pulled off to the side of the road and hiked the short trail toward what we’ve called the Moresby Waterfall.
There are no notable landmarks to help identify where the trailhead is. If you’re not already looking for it, chances are you’ll drive right on by. Once you park safely off the side of the road, you should spy two alder trees behind a group of feisty ferns. One of the trees features a double white diamond marking with some yellow tape attached to the lower diamond. Welcome to the Moresby Waterfall trailhead!
HIKING THE TRAIL
Surprisingly, the short trail is denoted with white diamond-shaped markers all the way through, which leads us to believe this route was created by local trailblazer Remi. Follow the white markers the length of the trail towards the waterfall. At about the mid-way point, there is an option to cross a small creek and visit the eastern side of the waterfall; however, because we lacked proper footwear (this was an impromptu stop), we opted to stay on the western side of the creek. After walking a mere five minutes, your efforts are rewarded with a beautiful cascading waterfall – up close and personal. Just be sure to use caution when walking the path near the waterfall as it is quite slippery and muddy.
The trail, while very short, is informal and user-maintained. There is plenty of deadfall to navigate en route to the falls; however, it is nothing major. While here, take a few moments to enjoy the slight rumble of the falls and the comforting silence of the forest that surrounds you. Forest therapy 101!
Note: The waterfall may not be as prominent during extended periods of drought.
The aerial view of Gold Creek towards the Mayer Lake
The smooth curvy placid waters of Gold Creek
Water lilies abound in summer just before reaching Mayer Lake
The initial part of the trail that shows the winding creek on the right side
Gold Creek Trail Features: Muskeg terrain and flora Winding creek Entry to Mayer Lake Homestead remnants
NOTE: Gold Creek often floods during the wet season, making the route inaccessible. We, therefore, recommend it as a summer-only hike.
ABOUT
Gold Creek Trail meanders through Muskeg, crosses the highway between Tlell and Port Clements (the old “Mexican Tom Trail”), and eventually flows into the south end of Mayer Lake via the Mayer River. The trail is informal – unmarked – and is typically begun at the Mayer Lake Day Use area; however, we decided to go against the grain and commenced our hike of this informal route at the “Gold Creek” bridge, just along Highway 16.
WHY GOLD CREEK TRAIL?
Unfortunately, you’re not too likely to find any gold along the banks of Gold Creek. According to Dalzell (1973), the name “Gold Creek” is simply a carry-over from the days when the Mayer River – which you’ll also pass by before reaching the south end of Mayer Lake – was called “Gold Creek” after an old prospector believed he’d found gold at the river’s mouth. The ungazetted name was given a bit of official status after the Department of Highways immortalized it on their bridge signage.
THE HIKE
We parked our vehicle on the shoulder at Gold Creek Bridge and started hiking on the west (LEFT) side of the creek. As noted above, the trail is informal and sans marker, but all you have to do is follow the creek until you reach the south end of Mayer Lake. The area around the creek is delicate muskeg, so a good pair of boots or waterproof shoes is recommended.
As you amble about the meandering creek, pay close attention to the fragile environment in which you’re walking: Labrador Tea, Sundews and other bog flora are not uncommon. Quite early on in the hike – at around the 10-minute mark – you will also spy two fence posts, from days gone by, on either side of the creek. We wonder what these were used for.
After about an hour, we reached the “junction” where Gold Creek meets the Mayer River. At this point in the hike, you enter a small forested area before re-emerging at the point where the Mayer River meets the south end of Mayer Lake. As you walk along the shore of Mayer Lake, an actual trail is finally visible. You will also likely notice some deer exclosures on the forested side (to your left). These are quite new, having been installed in 2022 in an effort to restore and protect k’ay trees (Crab apple) – the only native fruit trees on Haida Gwaii.
We concluded our hike at the Mayer Lake Day Use Area just as the sun was setting. The serene calm was interrupted by a beaver splashing its tail in the lake. To save time, we walked back along the dirt road and along the highway to our vehicle at the Gold Creek Bridge.
Of course, most people who choose to do this hike are more likely to begin at the Mayer Lake Day Use Area. In that case, once you reach the Gold Creek Bridge, you can simply return the way you came or walk back to the Day Use site via the Highway. Regardless of where you begin, we encourage you to take your time along the banks of the creek: The environment is so unique and so calm that one cannot help but admire the natural beauty that surrounds you. On a clear day, the waters of Gold Creek resemble that of a mirror!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.8km (one-way) TIME: 1 hour and 20 minutes TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
Dempsey Collinson Trail Features: Historic logging practices Salmon Habitat Old Growth Trees & CMTs Rope Sections
ABOUT
CONTEXT
Located just a few feet from the western Crabapple Creek trailhead entrance (near the old M&B site), you’ll spy the “Dempsey Collinson Chief Sgiidagids Memorial Trail” signage. The marker is posted on a large alder tree but, depending upon the time of year, it can be difficult to spot as branches may obstruct it from view. Who was Chief Skidegate and why is there a trail named in his honour? This is not the place for a detailed biography, but it is helpful to provide a brief overview for context:
Dempsey Collinson became Chief Skidegate on 23 March 1973. The event was historically significant because he became the first Haida of the 20th century to renew the ancient tradition of proclaiming his chieftainship through the potlatch ceremony. As Chief Skidegate, he played an integral and life-long role in the community: He helped guide the Council of the Haida Nation at their Hereditary Chiefs table; he worked for his community at the Band level as a Councillor and Chief Councillor; he helped save the Haida Gwaii Watchmen Program via a generous personal monetary donation in the 1980s; and he provided food for the community, always stating “when the tide is low, the table is set.”
When Chief Skidegate passed away in 2008, the tragic loss was even acknowledged in the BC Legislature by Premier Campbell. As such, it is little wonder that Dempsey should have a trail bearing his name. Throughout his life, in both thought and deed, he fought for and protected, Haida Gwaii.
THE VISION
In 2017, local trailblazers Mark Walsh and Remi Gauthier pitched “a plateau trail between Skidegate and [Daajing Giids]” to the municipality of Daajing Giids and even presented a rough outline of where the trail might go. As per their sketch, the route would begin at Skidegate’s Spirit Lake Trail; climb towards Slarkedus Lake and then swing west, run along the top of the plateau through delicate bog and muskeg.
It would eventually pass by Regier Lake before beginning a slow descent and passing along the Gore Brook and Crabapple Creek trails before exiting along the beach, rounding Haydn Turner and going towards Kagan Bay and the log sort. From here, said Walsh and Gauthier, you could connect up with the Sleeping Beauty and Slatechuck Mountain trails. If the route came to fruition, it would be an epic trail that would run north of 10 kilometres one-way.
The idea received a warm reception from the municipality and Skidegate; however, funding difficulties have prevented the full trail from taking shape. Nevertheless, a “rough draft” for a west-end loop began development in 2018 and finished in early 2020. It is this version of the trail covered here.
THE REALITY
As was noted above, the Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail is located a few feet behind the western Crabapple Creek trail marker, near the old M&B site. Just a few feet in, you will spy the rusted remains of an old “diesel donkey” hidden behind some bushes to your RIGHT. After a couple of minutes, you’ll come upon the first of many minor rope sections of the hike – this one bringing you down to Crabapple Creek. Cross the creek and continue hiking north.
As you amble alongside Crabapple Creek, the trail is a bit overgrown thanks to an abundance of salmonberry bushes; however, after you clear them, the trail follows an old 1940s-era skid road and gently climbs. As you hike this section of the trail – crossing a Crabapple tributary along the way – you will spy more of Haida Gwaii’s early logging history: The skid road you’re hiking and many tree stumps, some showing clear evidence of springboard logging.
After climbing the slope and moving east, you begin to see the real treasures of the Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail: Significant groves of old-growth cedar which, for us, was reminiscent of the Old Growth Alley Trail in Tlell. As you stand amongst this grove of ancient trees, you cannot help but feel small and in awe. Look closely: Many of the ancient cedars here show evidence of bark-stripping by the Haida.
Continuing east towards the Gore Brook Trail, there is one major rope section to contend with but, once you clear this hurdle, it’s a gradual descent down the ridge. You will eventually come upon scallop shells lining the trail. These were put in place by former school teacher and outdoor enthusiast, Kevin Borserio.
These shells signify that you’ve completed the marked “Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail” and entered the Gore Brook Trail. After completing Gore Brook, you can stop your hike here, at the cul-de-sac on Second Avenue, or enter the Crabapple Creek Trail and make the entire route a big loop trail.
Trail co-creator Mark Walsh has said that the marked route “shows the whole history of human habitation on these islands.” That’s a lofty statement but, we think, holds true: As you hike this moderately challenging route, you see ancient trees and landscapes; evidence of ancient Haida land use; early 20th-century logging practices; and contemporary outdoor recreation. The trail, while only a small part of the original vision, is still epic in its coverage.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate TOTAL DISTANCE: 4.3km (one way); 6km, if including Gore Brook & Crabapple trail segments TIME: 3hrs TYPE: Loop (including Gore Brook & Crabapple trail segments) ELEVATION GAIN: 260 meters
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