Hike Haida Gwaii

Tag: things to do in haida gwaii

  • Golden Spruce Trail – Old Growth Forest within the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy

    Golden Spruce Trail – Old Growth Forest within the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy

    • Golden Spruce Trail
      Early part after the trail head
    • Golden Spruce Trail
      The trailhead sign of Golden Spruce
    • Golden Spruce Trail
      This is one of the key featured tree on the trail – showing a nursing log sustaining new growth
    • Golden Spruce Trail
      The trail is well-maintained

    GOLDEN SPRUCE TRAIL FEATURES:
    Haida legend
    Old growth trees
    Access to Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy

    ABOUT

    The Golden Spruce Trail is located approximately 10 minutes (3.5 km) outside the community of Port Clements and represents a brisk 20-minute roundtrip walk. Up until January 1997, the end of this short well-manicured trail led to a viewpoint whereby you could see and admire Kiidk’yaas, the Golden
    Spruce.

    Golden Spruce Trail
    An old photo of the Golden Spruce. Credit: Marla Abbott

    The ancient tree, estimated to be about 300 years old, was a massive Sitka spruce known for its rare golden needles. It figured prominently in Haida stories. Unfortunately, in mid-January 1997, the tree was chopped down by the deranged “protester,” Grant Hadwin. His actions sparked international outrage; the tale is powerfully told in John Vaillant’s The Golden Spruce (2005), a must-read and primer for anyone wanting to walk this short trail. Context is essential to understanding and appreciating this sacred place.

    I had the privilege of seeing the actual Golden Spruce in June of 1996, a mere 7 months before it was felled. The trail was a bit narrower back then, but still easy to navigate. Seeing and being surrounded by the massive old-growth forest was a fantastic experience, but nothing could compare to seeing Kiidk’yaas in person. Its golden foliage radiated in contrast to its greener relatives and the almost black Yakoun River at its base.

    Currently, the Golden Spruce Trail has been widened and is accessible to those with mobility issues. The old-growth forest; the soft and lush moss; monumental trees and decaying nurse logs still maintain and hold their power over those who hike the trail. It is a very serene experience; one heightened even further by the plaques, designed by the late Ben Davidson, placed throughout highlighting the Haida’s spiritual, emotional, and practical attachment to the land.

    Once you reach the end of the official trail, you come upon a viewpoint that, up until about 3 years ago, allowed you to view the skeleton of the Golden Spruce. Now, all that remains is a stump, which is difficult to see and identify. In a very real sense, the walk is both beautiful and tragic at the same time.

    In death, however, we often find life. After the Golden Spruce fell in 1997, a number of cuttings were taken from the tree in hopes of planting “golden” offspring. One such cutting has indeed survived and is viewable in Port Clements’ Millennium Park. The golden needles shine bright and radiant.

    While the official Golden Spruce Trail is only 400 meters one-way, it is possible to walk nearly an additional 2 kilometres along the “unmaintained” portion of the trail (indicated by signage at the end of
    the “official” route). In our view, the reason you may wish to hike this route is for the golden opportunity it presents to explore more of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy. The Conservancy has been used by the Haida for at least 10,000 years and is rife with historic, cultural, social, and spiritual meaning – something very evident along this trail.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 800 meters (official trail)
    TIME: 20 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Let’s Walk to the Early History of the Watun River Road

    Let’s Walk to the Early History of the Watun River Road

    • watun-river-road-old-docks-remnants
      Lasting structures – remnants of the old docks at the end of the Watun River Road
    • watun-rive-road-spilling-to-masset-inlet
      Watun River spilling over to the Masset Inlet
    • Top view of the remaining dock structures
    • Near the entrance of the road

    Watun Road Features
    Historic remnants of a cannery
    Docks remains
    Fishing spots

    ABOUT

    The Watun River Road, which has also been identified as a trail elsewhere, is accessible just off the Watun River Bridge, approximately 20 minutes south of Masset. The road is roughly 400 meters in length but is often muddy.

    We would not recommend driving the length of the road unless you have a 4-wheel capable truck. If driving a standard vehicle, a safe alternative would be to pull off to the side of the bridge – where there’s ample parking for at least 3 mid-size vehicles – and walk the length of the road. It’s a brief and easy trek, taking only about 6 minutes to reach the mouth of Watun River and Masset Sound. As you walk this route, you can enjoy the scenic beauty that surrounds you. Western hemlock, ferns, and grasses dominate the trail landscape and are often blanketed by lush mosses.

    Once you reach the terminus point of the trail/road, you’re treated to the unique wetlands protected by the Kamdis Conservancy. These intertidal shallows are rich in vegetation and sea life: sedges, grasses, and rushes abound thanks to the rich waterways and soils. If walking here at low tide, use caution as the area can be a bit slippery.

    Beyond the wetland expanse, you’ll undoubtedly notice old wooden pillars off in the distance. These are all that remain of a primitive dock system that used to be in the area. Decaying and returning to nature, these columns have their own charm about them now. These old pillars might also be part of the Watun River Cannery that existed in the area from 1919- 1930.

    As part of the Kamdis Conservancy site, the Watun River road/trail access is important for ecological and cultural purposes. Here you can get a glimpse of early settler development while also seeing but a small part of why Kamdis is a significant intertidal estuarine wetland complex. It’s a short hike (or an even shorter drive), but the rewards are many!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    LENGTH: Approximately 400 meters
    TRAIL TYPE: Out and Back


  • Challenge the Slopes to Scout Lake Trail

    Challenge the Slopes to Scout Lake Trail

    • The Trailhead sign – following the blue markers
    • The not-so-helpful sign

    SCOUT LAKE TRAIL FEATURES
    Sloped trails
    Lake on top
    Boggy environment

    Note that in some literature Scout Lake is also referred to as “Charlie Hardie South Lake Trail.”

    ABOUT

    Locating the Scout Lake Trailhead marker is an adventure in itself. To find this trail, you first have to hike the full Charlie Hartie Trail, which clocks in at approximately 800 meters one way and has an elevation gain of 160 meters. After about an hour of hiking, you’ll come upon the official terminus point of the Charlie Hartie Trail, as indicated by a fork and some signage. One arrow points left towards “Charlie Hardie,” but blowdown and lack of maintenance have made this route towards the creek virtually unnavigable. The right-pointing arrow, on the other hand, indicates the route to Scout Lake and, in effect, represents the trailhead. From this point onwards, it’s an uphill climb – of just over 1 kilometer in the distance – towards the small lake. Blue tape indicates your path.

    The Scout Lake Trail, much like the Charlie Hartie that precedes it, is rough, narrow, miry, and quite steep in some places. For much of the climb, you’ll be making your way through dense forest, but there are a few monumental cedars along the way. Seeing these giants up close really helps to put things into perspective and highlights, only too clearly, why protecting our forests is important.

    Just before reaching the zenith of your climb, you will have to descend into a small ravine and cross Templeton Creek before climbing again and finally reaching the flat bog lands. This part of the trek is fairly straightforward in summer, but if you hike the route during winter be prepared to deal with plenty of packed snow and ice.

    Once you reach the bog, the ground is mostly flat and it’s an easy hike to Scout Lake from here. Just make sure you’re wearing good waterproof gear and be cautious of the numerous small pools dotting
    the landscape. DO NOT step in these. They may look shallow but they’re deceptively deep!

    As you close in on Scout Lake, you’ll come across one of this hike’s more interesting features – a sign that looks like it came right out of a Dr. Seuss book! It points every which way and nowhere in particular. The wooden sign gives general distances to Scout Lake, Regier Lake, Chinukundl Creek, and Queen Charlotte. We’ve wondered if it’s possible to hike towards Regier Lake from here.

    Once you reach the Dr. Seuss sign, Scout Lake will be to your left (or west) – a little over 5 minutes away. Just follow the pink tape on what looks like a deer trail and you’ll eventually reach your destination. When we saw Scout Lake, it was still partially frozen, which added to its charm.

    All in all, Scout Lake is a good, albeit challenging, hike. It is more scenic than the Charlie Hartie, though we say that only because Scout Lake actually leads somewhere rather than ending at a random point (as
    the existing “Charlie” does). Hiking to Scout Lake, you encounter beautiful green mosses; monumental cedars; and a unique bog environment, featuring salal, Labrador Tea, and a host of other flora. In brief, it’s a challenging but rewarding hiking adventure!

    DIFFICULTY: Hard
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 3.5 kilometers return (including Charlie Hartie Trail)
    TIME: 2 hours one-way
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: 395 meters

  • Experience a Magical Hike at Monique Creek Trail

    Experience a Magical Hike at Monique Creek Trail

    • Monique Creek early afternoon
    • Mirror-like reflections
    • River bank trails
    • Reflections in the calm creek waters
    • The Magical Sitka Spruce!
    • Monique Creek around dusk
    • September makes this trail a foraging destination

    MONIQUE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES
    Magical Sitka Spruce
    Forage destination during Fall Season
    Fishing spots along creek

    ABOUT

    The Monique Creek Trail, like the Three Mile Creek Trail, is found deep within the Tlall Conservancy. Accessing it in the current day requires a bit of effort because the original point of entry – Survey Forest Service Road – was formally decommissioned in 2016 after years of disuse.

    Now, if you wish to visit this trail, you’ll have to drive nearly 1.5 hours along the Daajing Giids backroads: First, drive approximately 20 minutes along the QC Mainline (passing the decommissioned Survey Forest Service Road) until you come upon the un-signed junction for Lakes Main Road, near the Mile 17 marker, to your RIGHT. Take this turn and follow Lakes Main for nearly an hour – you will eventually connect to what’s left of the Survey Forest Service Road. Once here, turn to your RIGHT and park your vehicle. You will see the decommissioned section of the Survey Forest Road. For all intents and purposes, this is where your hike begins.

    You must hike along the Survey Forest Road for approximately 3.5 kilometers before hitting the “official” Monique Creek Trailhead. This portion of the hike is relatively straightforward and easy; however, the numerous trenches dug as part of the decommissioning process – there are more than 10 of them – can be a bit of a challenge. Long grass has grown over the rocks, making footing a little uncertain.

    The official Monique Creek Trail begins at an overgrown spur road and will be to your LEFT. An orange arrow – one of the few still left after 20+ years – and an extremely faded trailhead sign indicate the start of the route. The official trail follows the spur road for a few hundred meters before turning off into the dense bush. Because most of the trail markers have gone, it’s very easy to miss the turnoff point, which is exactly what we did. We continued hiking along the increasingly overgrown road for a good 5 minutes before realizing we were off the trail.

    Because the turnoff point is extremely dense, how do you know where to depart the old road? The best answer we can give is, as you’re hiking the overgrown road, keep your eyes peeled for a lone orange trail marker pointing BACK towards the Monique Creek Trailhead. From the marker, turn LEFT into the dense bush. This is where the route gets fun because the trail is almost non-existent at this point. There is the odd marker, but they’re far and few between. We spent 30 minutes in here, trying to find our way.

    Once you emerge from the dense bush, you’re rewarded with the lovely confluence of Survey and Monique Creeks. You’ll spy a trail marker on the opposite side of Survey Creek. Cross here. There apparently used to be a natural log bridge, but it’s not there anymore. Be prepared to get your feet wet unless you’re wearing boots! After you cross, walk upstream along Monique Creek.

    The Monique Creek is a nice example of a coho spawning stream flowing through old-growth forests. Unaffected by development, it’s an ideal place to study the unique habitat features for spawning coho. As we hiked along the creek, we found many frogs, some elk tracks, and salmon Fry in the creek!

    By the route’s end – just minutes after a log jam – you’ll come upon the trail’s star attraction: A large Sitka Spruce that has a creek running through its roots! The tree is a special sight and well worth the hike.

    Unfortunately, trails like Monique Creek have fallen into severe disuse due largely to the difficulty associated with getting to them. Once upon a time, you could probably do this hike in a couple of hours; however, because you now have to drive nearly 1.5hrs + hike 3.5km before getting to the trailhead, it is best to give yourself a full day to enjoy the serenity of nature.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (return, official trail); 10km (return, from Survey Forest Rd)
    TIME: 6 hours
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: 40 meters

  • Kumdis River Trail – Walking to the Ecological Kingdom

    Kumdis River Trail – Walking to the Ecological Kingdom

    • Aerial shot of the Kumdis River and the bridge
    • Calm Kumdis River
    • The logging barge and the river flow spilling into Masset inlet
    • The logging barge up close

    KUMDIS RIVER TRAIL FEATURES:
    Environmental research
    Barge remnants
    Duck hunting grounds

    ABOUT

    The Kumdis River Trail is a short out-and-back route located approximately 2 kilometers outside the village of Port Clements. Like most trails on Haida Gwaii, the Kumdis River Trail lacks a formal trailhead; however, it is easy enough to find. As you drive along Yellowhead 16 towards Masset, you’ll come upon a small pullout to the immediate left of the Kumdis River Bridge. This short dirt road essentially represents the trailhead.

    At the very beginning of the hike, you’re treated to lovely views of the Kumdis River and promised a flat trail to complete. The Kumdis River often acts like a mirror on a clear and calm day. The trees on the opposite side of the riverbank flawlessly reflect on the water. The end result is almost dream-like – quiet reflections hinting at what’s to come.

    Walking the rest of this short trail is fairly uneventful and straightforward. For the first few minutes, you walk through a nice pocket of old growth filled with towering red cedar and thick Sitka spruce. You then pass through a grassy clearing before re-entering the forest. Finally, just before entering the grasslands and sedge at Kumdis Bay, you come upon what, in our view, is a highlight of this trail: Stunted and twisted trees covered in long, wispy old man’s beard lichen. It’s quite a sight and unlike most anything, you’ll see on Graham Island.

    Once you enter the grassy lowlands of Kumdis Bay, you can take a few moments to explore and appreciate this unique environment. Part of the Kumdis River conservation area, it’s not uncommon to see the Council of the Haida Nation, in partnership with NCC, conducting necessary fieldwork. As an estuary, this area is home to a plethora of fish, invertebrates, and waterfowl, giving Kumdis high ecological importance.

    It’s most curious (and even a little ironic), then, when you spot an old barge once used to transport logs resting on the river. It has been here so long – close to 100 years – that it’s now become part of the landscape. Moss, shrubs, and trees now dominate the structure. Nature is taking over!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 820 meters (return)
    TIME: 20 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None


  • Andrews Place Road Trail: Easy Access to Naikoon Provincial Park

    • Andrews Place Road Trail
      Moss forest before the beach view
    • Andrews Place Road Trail
      Thick bushes of berries also line up the trail
    • Andrews Place Road Trail
      Slightly elevated part of the trail with helpful cut logs to help you up
    • Andrews Place Road Trail
      Part of the beach you see at end of trail
    • Andrews Place Road Trail
      The open horizon leading up o the beach

    ANDREWS PLACE ROAD TRAIL FEATURES:
    Beach Access
    Access to Naikoon Provincial Park

    ABOUT

    The Andrews Place Road Trail is a short out-and-back route located at the end of, well, Andrews Place Road in Tlell. The trailhead is not formally marked; however, it can be seen adjacent to a hydro pole at the end of the cul-de-sac, next to Sandy House. At just 250 meters in length, it only takes 5 minutes to complete this trail and emerge, first, onto the flat sand dunes and then the pebbly beach below.

    Because of its short length, I suspect this trail was created more for functional reasons – beach access – than recreational hiking. As such, proper hiking gear is not required. The path is user-maintained and the terrain is mostly flat; however, there are some roots to watch out for as well as some potentially slippery steps to climb en route to the beach.

    For the first three minutes of the hike, you walk through fairly dense salal bushes and young Sitka Spruce. Beautiful green moss carpets areas of the forest floor. Just before reaching a set of stairs, you’ll spy a heavily worn and faded sign pointing “to the beach.” After climbing the stairs, you’ll come upon a beautiful memorial bench that sits at the junction of forest and sand dunes. From here, it’s a short two-
    minute walk towards the beach.

    In late Spring and early Summer, the sand dunes in this area – and throughout Naikoon Provincial Park are rife with life. As you walk, be sure to keep an eye out for delicious wild strawberries! At times, the sweet aroma is enough to envelop the mind!

    At high tide the beach in this area is pebbly and rough; however, low tide exposes the smooth, packed sand. Most who visit this area either do so for a refreshing dip in the Pacific Ocean or to walk along the shoreline – technically part of the larger Misty Meadows Loop Trail – toward the mouth of the Tlell River. On a clear day, the expanse of beach and sand dunes can, and do, appear most welcoming.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 500 meters (return)
    TIME: 10 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None


  • Finding the Three Falls in the Blackwater Creek Waterfall Trails

    Finding the Three Falls in the Blackwater Creek Waterfall Trails

    • Blackwater Creek Waterfall Trails
      Falls No. 3
    • Blackwater Creek Waterfall Trails
      Falls No.2
    • Blackwater Creek Waterfall Trails
      Falls No. 1

    BLACKWATER CREEK WATERFALL TRAILS FEATURES:
    · Relatively easy access to waterfalls
    · Challenging rope sections

    ABOUT

    The Blackwater Creek Waterfall Trails are a couple of hidden gems on Haida Gwaii. The two trails are short – clocking in at about 200 and 400 meters respectfully – and very remote; however, if one enjoys chasing waterfalls, these two routes are definitely worth the effort. As these trails are not well known, they do not appear in any of the literature available on Haida Gwaii. Here’s how you get to them:

    1) Starting in Port Clements, drive south along Bayview Drive towards the Golden Spruce Trail.

    2) Keep driving. Bayview Drive eventually turns into the Port Man Forest Service Road – an active logging road. At about the 11km mark from Port Clements, you’ll come upon signage for the “HAIDA CANOE” Trail. Then, 150 meters from this point you’ll spot a “Y” or split in the road. Turn RIGHT onto the New Mainline Road. You will then cross a bridge over the Mamin River before coming to another “Y.”

    Keep left on the New Mainline Road for approximately 500 meters. You will then see a minor logging road to your LEFT. Turn here and drive for nearly 5 kilometres. Note that, from this point on, the road is narrow (single track) and does have a few low-hanging alder trees you’ll have to clear.

    3) After driving along the road for nearly 5 kilometres, you’ll cross a small bridge over Blackwater Creek. Barely 100 meters past this bridge, you’ll come upon another “Y.” Turn RIGHT. Drive approximately 2 kilometres along this narrow road. If you’ve made it this far, you’ll spy the trailhead marker for the first waterfall. It is signified by pink and orange flagging tape hanging from young spruce trees.

    The trail is short – approximately 200 meters one-way – but it is more reminiscent of a stroll through the bush than an actual trail. Expect to walk through dense forest, a lot of deadfalls and a few muddy sections. The good news, though, is the route is extremely well-marked: There is bright flagging tape every few feet, so it’s virtually impossible to get lost.

    At the end of your hike, you’ll come upon a moderately steep section, which you must carefully descend in order to view the waterfall. The waterfall itself is quite nice; however, it is difficult to photograph on account of being obstructed by large logs. After enjoying the cascading falls and the sounds of nature, return the way you came.

    4) To view the second waterfall, continue driving approximately 1.2 kilometres up the same narrow road. You will eventually see the trailhead markers – signified by candy cane patterned flagging tape – to your LEFT. A pullout, large enough for 2 vehicles, is just a few feet up the road. Unlike the first waterfall, the route to this second waterfall resembles a more traditional trail (albeit a little rough).

    It, too, is extremely well marked with flagging tape. The total length of this trail is approximately 400 meters (one way), but that’s because, at the mid-point, it splits. If you go to the RIGHT, you’ll come upon the “top” of the falls, which is picturesque in its own right and features an attractive “kiddie pool” more than suitable for a swim.

    If you go to the LEFT at the trail split, you’ll eventually make your way to a fairly large waterfall, cascading down a rounded rock face. Use caution, though: To get to these falls, you must descend an extremely steep area that, in one area, is almost completely vertical. There are several sturdy ropes to assist you here. Once you make it down, however, it is only a short walk to the impressive falls.

    It is not uncommon for people to linger here for many a moment and cool off under the cascading water. Once you’re finished admiring the serene beauty laid out before you, simply head back the way you came.

    Getting to these waterfalls may be tricky (both in navigating the narrow logging roads and hiking), but it is well worth the effort. In both instances, the waterfalls are a mere 10 to 15 minutes off the road. In our view, the second waterfall, in particular, is the major highlight because of its size and relative ease of access; in fact, we’d even suggest it rivals the Dover Falls in Sandspit!

    Again, though, keep in mind that you will be driving on active logging roads; thus, proper caution should
    be exercised. In addition, while a truck is not necessary to reach these sites, a standard vehicle is not ideal for these roads.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy to Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 400 and 800 meters (return)
    TIME: 50 minutes (for both trails, out and back)
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal


  • Masset Cemetery Road Beach Access Trail

    Masset Cemetery Road Beach Access Trail

    • Moss-covered trees covering the cemetery section
    • Masset Cemetery Road Beach Access Trail
      Watchmen on a grave
    • Masset Cemetery Road Beach Access Trail
      The entrance to the beach access
    • Masset Cemetery Road Beach Access Trail
      The beach gives you to Tow Hill from a distance

    MASSET CEMETERY ROAD BEACH ACCESS TRAIL:
    Access to North Beach
    Masset Cemetery

    ABOUT

    The aptly named Masset Cemetery Road Beach Access Trail is exactly as it says: It is located adjacent to Masset Cemetery and provides straightforward access to South Beach. In this regard, it isn’t much of a hiking trail but serves a functional purpose. The trail is wide and flat, taking you through compacted sand and a few scattered spruce trees before hitting the beach. In brief, there’s nothing much of note along this short trail. It’s all in the destination. . .

    In our experience, most people don’t access this trail on foot. Instead, because it is so wide (and resembles a road more than a trail), ATVs and trucks are far more common. The few times we’ve hiked this route, ATVs and other vehicles have always been present – riding up and down the pebbly beach at quite the pace. But the vehicle use isn’t just for recreational fun: At certain times of the year, the Haida will access the beach in this area to harvest traditional foods.

    As noted, it is highly unlikely one would visit this trail for recreational hiking purposes. Instead, we recommend doing the practical thing: Use it to access the beach – which itself is part of the larger Tl’ellan to Old Massett Trail – and go for a nice stroll alongside the powerful Pacific Ocean. As you amble about, keep an eye out for sea life, agates, and beach glass. There’s no telling what you might find!

    Finally, since you’re in the area, we would also recommend visiting the Masset Cemetery: This is a truly unique space, unlike any cemetery we’ve visited. Haida Watchmen figures keep a close eye on some resting sites while mounds of agates and scallop shells can be found at others. In a large city, some of these “precious” items would quickly grow legs, but in a small community like Haida Gwaii, the house of the dead is deeply respected. Thus, if you do choose to visit the cemetery before or after walking the nearby beach, step quietly and cautiously. Someone – or something – is always watching 😉

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 400 meters (return)
    TIME: 10 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Smugglers Cove: A Delightful Beach

    Smugglers Cove: A Delightful Beach

    • Drone view facing the beach of Smuggler’s Cove
    • Smugglers Cove
      At the beach, facing the open ocean
    • Smugglers Cove
      Watch out for slippery and sharp rocks
    • Smugglers Cove
      Can you spot Remi’s cabin?
    • Smugglers Cove cabin
      The old abandoned cabin on the beach

    SMUGGLERS COVE FEATURES:
    Picnic spot
    Swimming

    ABOUT

    We came upon Smugglers Cove quite by accident. We were en route to the Kwuna Point Trail when we spied this lovely little cove just 250 meters up Kwuna Point Road in Sandspit. You’ll see a small pullout suitable for one vehicle when you reach it. With its serene and peaceful setting, it called to us; thus, after hiking Kwuna Point, we decided to enjoy a few moments of zen at Smugglers Cove.

    As noted, Smugglers Cove is tiny but its ease of access makes it far more attractive, in our view than the more popular Secret Cove. Smugglers Cove is literally right off the road whereas, with Secret Cove, you have to drive nearly an hour on rough logging roads and then hike a short trail. Its physical geography is also similar to that of Secret Cove: The beach is primarily made up of small stones while each side of the cove features a rocky shoreline replete with a variety of stunning sea life. Keep an eye peeled for small beach crabs! Smugglers Cove is also home to some old cabin remnants, which makes for a unique photo opportunity!

    While it is possible to take a dip in the ocean, we think Smugglers Cove is far more suitable for a picnic or relaxation on the pebbly beach. The cold water from the open ocean can be challenging if you do not have a wetsuit even on a hot summer day. It is also recommended you have a pair of strong sandals when dipping in the water as the sharp little rocks can be hard to navigate. As you sit here and marvel at Haida Gwaii’s natural beauty, you just might spy “Remi’s Cabin” in the distance!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: N/A
    TIME: N/A
    TYPE: Beach walk
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

     
  • Roughing It Out at Three Mile Creek Trail

    Roughing It Out at Three Mile Creek Trail

    • The flow of Three Mile Creek makes silky waters
    • There is no clear evidence of a trail left
    • Some clear parts of the creek
    • Going down from the bridge and road
    • The trail is covered by overgrown foilage
    • The Three Mile Creek trail is showing a bit of erosion
    • There are some minimal trail markers but the safe route is to follow the creek back to the bridge
    • The creek has a lot of dead falls and flooding debris

    THREE MILE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES:
    Salmon spawning creek
    Cascade
    Tlall Conservancy

    ABOUT

    The Three Mile Creek Trail is found deep within the Tlall Conservancy. Accessing it in the current day requires a bit of effort because the original point of entry – Survey Forest Service Road – was formally decommissioned in 2016 after years of disuse.

    Now, if you wish to visit this trail, you’ll have to drive nearly 1.5 hours along the Daajing Giids backroads: First, drive approximately 20 minutes along the QC Mainline (passing the decommissioned Survey Forest Service Road) until you come upon the un-signed junction for Lakes Main Road to your RIGHT.

    Take this turn and follow Lakes Main for nearly an hour – you will eventually connect to what’s left of the Survey Forest Service Road. Once here, you’ll spy a bridge that crosses Three Mile Creek.

    If you’ve come all this way to hike the trail, do NOT cross the bridge because the unsigned trailhead for Three Mile Creek Trail is just before the bridge on your RIGHT.

    Lack of maintenance for nearly two decades has made the route difficult to see but the faint outline of a trail is there. Descend the minor slope and begin your trek!

    In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Three Mile Creek Trail – along with the nearby Monique Creek Trail – was promoted in an interpretive booklet by the Tlell Watershed Society. Evidence of their “wilderness interpretive route” narrative can still be found near the start of the trail. Look up at an alder tree near the Three Mile Creek bridge – you’ll spy signage explaining the creek’s role as an important area for spawning coho and steelhead salmon. I suspect there were more signs like this along the trail, but we didn’t see any on our hike. Time and the elements have likely eliminated them.

    While the trail is only 1 kilometre in length, expect to take at least an hour to complete the full route. Three Mile Creek hasn’t seen any maintenance for nearly 2 decades – well before the decommissioning of Survey Forest Road – and it shows. Almost right out of the gate, the trail is difficult to find and follow.

    The path is mostly overgrown and significant deadfall litters the trail. The odd trail marker can still be found, and they help somewhat, but we still lost the trail for brief moments. I guess the best thing to keep in mind is that the route basically follows Three Mile Creek for its duration.

    As we hiked along the creek, we admired the old-growth Sitka Spruce and Red Cedar. We did not encounter any wildlife; however, we did spy on elk tracks and bear dung along the way.

    Why might someone wish to come into the backcountry and hike this trail? I can posit a couple of reasons: 1) To explore an important tributary to the Tlell River Watershed; and, 2) To probe deeper into the Tlall Conservancy beyond what’s available near the community of Tlell. Either way, getting here and hiking the trail are certainly adventures in their own right!

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 2km (return)
    TIME: Approximately 2 hours, depending on skill level
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None