• Gregory Beach
  • Gregory Beach
  • Gregory Beach
  • Gregory Beach
  • Gregory Beach

Gregory Beach Features:
Easy access to Gregory Creek
Conehead view


NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.


ABOUT

Located within the Duu Guusd Conservancy, Gregory Beach offers a lovely sand and pebble beach for
those wishing to relax and experience the dynamic environment that is Haida Gwaii’s rugged west coast. At the beach’s north end you will find Gregory Creek, which is home to spawning salmon in August and September. The small Gregory Beach campsite is located opposite the creek.

As described by Haida Hereditary Chief Gidansda, Duu Guusd “stands as a testament to the power of the earth” and “maintains all of the elements that spawned the Haida cultural heritage.” Indeed, the conservancy is huge, clocking in at 229,107 hectares in size (144,934 terrestrial and 84,173 foreshore), and stretching from the western side of Naden Harbour to Langara Island, and south to Rennell Sound. It should come as no surprise that Duu Guusd is an area rich in cultural values. 39 village sites or seasonal camps have been identified; 88 registered archaeological sites have been noted, including CMts, shell middens, habitation caves, burial sites, and blank canoes; the area is rich in unique geological formations from antiquity; and it is home to some of the most productive marine habitat on all of Haida Gwaii. The intertidal pools – prominent at the Conehead Recreational camping site – provide a beautiful and vivid example of this latter point.

To reach Gregory Beach, and others in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.

If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.

LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 13 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead signs for Five Mile Beach and Riley Creek before finally coming upon the Gregory Beach trailhead marker. There is a small pullout with enough room for two or three vehicles to park. Welcome to the Gregory Beach Trail!

HIKING THE TRAIL

The trail to Gregory Beach is brief at only 300 meters one-way. It should take approxim?ately 5 minutes to reach the beach. As you hike this brief path, which takes you through some nice shoreline forest, be cognizant of some muddy sections; otherwise, the single-file trail is mostly clear and an easy walk. It is also the only trail within Rennell Sound to feature the Ben Davidson Haida trail marker. Once you reach the beach, enjoy the rugged beauty of Haida Gwaii’s west coast: Surf the waves, swim in the ocean, comb the beach, or have a picnic (please pick up after yourself). As you relax in this oasis of calm, it is easy to lose all sense of time . . . and that’s okay.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 300 meters (one-way)
TIME: 5 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Riley Creek Trail
  • Riley Creek Trail
  • Riley Creek Trail
  • Riley Creek Trail

Riley Creek Trail Features:
Old Growth Trees
Multiple access to Riley Creek
Pristine beaches


NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.


ABOUT

Located within Rennell Sound and the Duu Guusd Conservancy, the Riley Creek Trail offers hikers a substantive walk through riparian old growth forest, which terminates at a secluded sand and pebble beach. According to Dalzell, Riley Creek was named after the engineer who “surveyed the proposed railway route to the west coast of Graham Island.” The trail is not formally maintained, so be prepared for potentially challenging conditions as a result of blowdown.

To reach the Riley Creek Trail, and other trails in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.

If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.

LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 12 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead sign for Five Mile Beach before coming upon the Riley Creek trailhead marker. There is a small pullout with enough room for two or three vehicles to park. Welcome to the Riley Creek Trail!

As you get ready for the hike, you will undoubtedly read the information contained on the trailhead sign. Please note that key information on this board is incorrect. First, while the trail is marked throughout, the Ben Davidson trail marker is not used; rather, it is a mix of flagging tape ad orange squares. Second, the stated length of the trail – 2.3km one way – is off by a significant margin. Other sources indicate the route to be 2 kilometers, 5 kilometers and 10 kilometers one-way; however, none of these are correct. The actual length of the trail, one way, is 3.44 kilometers. As such, one should ensure they’ve brought sufficient water and snacks for this trek through the forest.

HIKING THE TRAIL

The Riley Creek Trail is the only substantive hiking trail within Rennell Sound where the trail itself functions as the attraction (with the other three, the trails are secondary to the beaches). While not formally maintained, the path is obvious and generally well-marked. When we hiked the route, there were only a couple of spots – just past the mid-way point – where we had to take a moment to locate the trail thanks to blowdown.

As you hike the riparian wilderness, take time to appreciate the lush flora that surrounds you. Much of the Riley Creek route is covered in thick green moss, which gives the environment a fairy-like atmosphere. Combine this with the gentle lull of the creek and you have all the ingredients necessary for a relaxing stroll through Haida Gwaii’s rainforest.

We should note that, even during dry conditions, parts of the trail can be quite miry. There are boardwalks and stepping blocks to assist with this, but even these should be used with caution. The boardwalks are old and some have been compromised; the stepping blocks, while solid, are extremely slippery and pose their own hazard. In addition, there are numerous sections of blowdown along the way. Most of it is minor and easy to navigate, but there are at least two areas with fairly significant deadfall on the trail: About 45 minutes in, while walking along a ridge, you’ll notice a large spruce has toppled over and ripped out a large section of the trail. We briefly thought about turning around at this point, but carefully navigated around the fallen tree and returned to the trail. Then, about 40 minutes later, you’ll come upon this area with a clutter of fallen alder and spruce. It’s easy enough to duck around these, but it does make the trail a little difficult to follow – at least momentarily.

About 500 meters out from Riley Beach, the trail splits. At this point, you have the option of crossing Riley Creek and continuing along the southern side of the creek towards the beach OR staying on the north side of Riley Creek and continuing to the beach via this route. One should only cross Riley Creek when water levels are low. If you choose not to cross the creek, you will still get to the beach. After such a lengthy and somewhat challenging trek through the woods, Riley Beach provides the perfect spot for a bite to eat and re-charge before hiking back to your vehicle.

DIFFICULTY: Moderate
TOTAL DISTANCE: 3.44km (one-way)
TIME: 5 hours (return)
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: 25 meters

  • Five Mile Trail
  • Five Mile Creek
  • Five Mile Trail
  • Five Mile Trail
  • Five Mile Trail

Five Mile Beach Trail Features
– Five Mile Island view
-Conehead view


NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.


ABOUT

The Five Mile Beach Trail is located in Rennell Sound, just outside the Duu Guusd Conservancy. To reach this trail, and others in the area, one requires a good deal of patience and a high clearance vehicle because the old logging road out to Rennell is in poor shape and rife with large potholes. Once you make it, however, you will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world.

If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound. You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade. While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.

LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site, which is rustic but features a boat launch, camping sites, and outhouses (no potable water). There are also beautiful views of the surrounding mountainscape. From here, drive approximately 3.7 kilometers north along the Rennell FSR. Once past the former dryland sort, you should spy the “5 Mile Beach BC Forest Recreation Trail” sign to your LEFT. A small pullout with space for two or three vehicles is immediately behind the trailhead marker. Welcome to the Five Mile Beach Trail!

HIKING THE TRAIL

The Five Mile Beach Trail is short and straightforward. Clocking in at just 180 meters, it should take no more than a few minutes to reach the rocky beach. The trail, while not formally maintained, is clear. Step with caution as you near the beach, however, because there are some minor tree roots to watch out for. Once at the beach, take some time to admire the rocky shore, the surrounding mountains, and the eye-catching Five Mile Island. For those wishing to camp, there is space to set up a small tent just off the trail, adjacent the beach.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 180 meters (one-way)
TIME: Less than 5 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Bonanza Beach Haida Gwaii
  • Bonanza Beach Haida Gwaii
  • Bonanza Beach Haida Gwaii
  • Bonanza Beach Haida Gwaii
  • Bonanza Beach Haida Gwaii
  • Bonanza Beach Haida Gwaii

Bonanza Beach Features:
Pristine sandy beaches
Interesting tidal pools
Surfer waves


NOTE: Rennell Sound is subject to variable weather conditions, heavy rainfall, and landslide risk, particularly from September thru May. Be prepared for emergencies and road closures during weather events.


ABOUT

Located within Rennell Sound and the Duu Guusd Conservancy, Bonanza Beach offers perhaps the finest sandy beach on all of Haida Gwaii. At the beach’s south end you will find Bonanza Creek, which is home to spawning salmon in August and September. While remote and difficult to get to, Bonanza Beach is worth the effort and should be on everybody’s Haida Gwaii-themed bucket list.

If traveling from Daajing Giids, drive approximately 22 kilometers along the QC Mainline (use appropriate caution as these are active logging roads). You will come upon a blue sign with white text pointing you WEST towards the Duu Guusd Conservancy and Rennell Sound.

You are now on the Rennell Sound Forest Service Road. From here, it is a 15 kilometer drive towards the Sound. Along the way, you will drive through Rennell Pass, including Rennell Hill with its steep 25% grade (one of the steepest public roads in all of Canada). While there is no longer active logging in this area, it is strongly recommended that you still drive with caution because the Rennell FSR is narrow and filled with significant potholes. For this reason, a high clearance vehicle is suggested.

LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

Once at the bottom of Rennell Hill, you will come upon the Rennell Sound Recreation Site. From here, drive north for approximately 14 kilometers along the Rennell FSR. You will pass the trailhead signs for Five Mile Beach, Riley Creek and Gregory Beach before coming upon the Bonanza River Bridge. While the bridge has been closed since August 2022 “for safety issues,” locals have pushed the barricade aside to allow for vehicle access. The bridge remains structurally sound but, for those wishing to err on the side of caution, you can park your vehicle here and walk the 650 meters to the Bonanza Beach trailhead. Welcome to the Bonanza Beach Trail!

HIKING THE TRAIL

The trail to Bonanza Beach is brief @ only 400 meters one-way. As you hike towards the beach, you will be treated to second-growth forest, giant spruce burls, dense salal, and some beautiful old growth cedars as you approach the beach. It should take less than ten minutes for one to reach one of Haida Gwaii’s crown jewels: Bonanza Beach.

Once you emerge from the dense salal, it’s easy to see why the Daily Hive (2018), Love Exploring (2021) and MSN (2023), amongst others, have all listed Bonanza Beach as one of the top beaches in Canada. With its attractive crescent shape, Bonanza Beach is exposed to the powerful waves of the open Pacific Ocean. The relentless wave action has resulted in some of the finest sand on any beach in the world. It has also made this area attractive for surfers and beachcombers. Because Bonanza Beach is quite literally the “last stop” on the way to Japan, it is not uncommon to find unique items along Bonanza’s shore, including the much sought after glass floats from Japanese fishing vessels.

Lastly, we’d be remiss if we failed to mention the tidal pools: On very low tides, Bonanza Beach is home to many attractive tidal pools, each teaming with life, including colourful sea anemones, beach crabs, mussels, life-giving seaweed and kelp. Indeed, the tidal pools offer a stunning microcosm of Duu Guusd’s complex and rich marine environment.

Bonanza Beach is – undoubtedly – a special place. For us, it highlights some of the best to be found within Duu Guusd: A short hiking trail with second and old growth forest; Haida cultural values; pristine
beaches; epic views of Conehead and the open Pacific; and bountiful marine life, including salmon, King Fishers, bald eagles and even the odd seal. Having the opportunity to relax on the beach or swim in the ocean is just the icing on the cake.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 400 meters (one-way)
TIME: 7 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Cape Fife Trail
  • Cape Fife Trail
  • Cape Fife Trail
  • Cape Fife Trail

Cape Fife Trail Features:
East Beach Access
Old growth forest
Overnight shelter
Settler remnants
Board walk trail parts

ABOUT

Cape Fife Trail was established circa 1910 as a settler wagon road to access parcels of land and serve as an important lifeline and access point to East Beach. The wagon road originally started slightly north of the current marked route and terminated at Kumara Lake. The trail now known as Cape Fife was cut in 1972 by the Masset Lions Club, though it does connect with – and follow – large sections of the original route (the old wagon road is obvious when you’re walking on it). At just over 11km one-way (signage says 10km, but this is wrong), it is a long but relatively easy hike with very little elevation gain.

As you hike this route, you will encounter varied landscapes: Rich forest, delicate bogs, intricate sand dunes and endless beaches. Taken as a comprehensive whole, Cape Fife offers a little something for everyone. Whether you choose to hike the whole route, part of it, or camp overnight at East Beach, is entirely up to you. In brief, you can make the hike whatever you’d like it to be.

LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

The Cape Fife Trail is one of the few signed and marked routes on Haida Gwaii. To access the trail, drive north to Naikoon Provincial Park towards Taaw (Tow Hill). Park your vehicle at the Tow Hill parking lot. From here, walk across the Hiellen River Bridge You will see the Cape Fife trailhead to your right. Thus you now begin your epic hike toward Haida Gwaii’s East Beach!

HIKING THE TRAIL

The Cape Fife Trail begins on the north side of the Hiellen River and is mostly flat and level the whole way. After hiking for about 5 minutes, you’ll come upon a wide open space and a fork in the trail. Cape Fife continues to your LEFT (going right will take you onto the Four Corners). Before continuing, we recommend studying the Cape Fife information board also found in this area. It outlines the route and highlights a couple of key features – study it to ensure you’re adequately prepared for the hike.

The first 4 kilometres take you through a beautiful forest environment, including old-growth cedars, hemlock and pine. Thick mosses of various shades of green carpet on the ground and strategically placed boardwalks help navigate a number of potentially miry sections. After clearing the forest, you enter the bog ecosystem and begin crossing the Argonaut Plain.

If you’ve hiked other bog trails on Haida Gwaii – White Creek, Nadu Homestead or Boulton Lake, for example – you know they can be tricky on account of the delicate and wet ground. Thankfully, you don’t have to contend with that too much on the Cape Fife Trail because boardwalks and stepping logs line the route; however, we recommend still using caution because a number of the boardwalks in this area are old and in need of repair or replacement.


In addition, the trail, at this point, has a lot of roots jutting out of the ground – and this goes on for at least a few kilometres – making parts of the hike a little more challenging. Nevertheless, just watch your step and enjoy the bounty of Labrador tea that surrounds you.


An aside: Henderson (1978) notes that at the 5-kilometre mark, on the north side of the trail, a flagged route will take you to Mica Lake in approximately 15 minutes; at the same point, but on the south side of the trail, there are remnants of a homestead. In the 45 years since those words were written, the flagging tape is gone and we did not notice any homestead remnants at this point; however, the ditching, which was all done with pick and spade, is still very much in evidence along various sections of the Cape Fife Trail. We suppose one could still hike to Mica Lake, but be sure to have a compass or directional app with you.


At about the 7km mark you can hear the waves of Hecate Strait in the distance. The trail also begins a slow descending pattern as you make your way toward the beach. While this part of the trail is mostly clear, roots represent the most significant and sustained obstacle. There is also one area that requires you to get on your knees to crawl under some deadfall.

As you close in on Cape Fife, you descend some stairs and enter the home stretch! These last few meters, though, are covered with long beach grass, obstructing the trail from view. As such, use caution: It’s difficult to see what you’re stepping on and thus represents a tripping hazard. Once you clear the long grass, you are at the Cape Fife shelter!


The Cape Fife shelter was a joint initiative between the Haida Nation and BC Parks. It is built in the traditional longhouse style and contains all of the amenities one could want for a brief break (if hiking Cape Fife as an in-and-out route), or to camp overnight: 4 bunkbeds, wood stove and a small table with a guestbook. An outhouse and a couple of hammocks are also available on-site. Curiously, cellular service is also available here. Kumara Lake, the original terminus of the wagon road, is also visible about one-hundred meters north of the shelter.


Once at the shelter and East Beach, you might wonder “Why Cape Fife?” because there is no “cape” at the trail’s end or within the immediate vicinity. The simple answer is “time.” After years of erosion from the powerful waves, the “cape” that once jutted out here has fallen to the sea.


From Cape Fife, you can simply go back the way you came or make this a much longer hike by walking up East Beach towards the beginning of Rose Spit (roughly 8km) and then hiking south back towards Taaw (roughly 18km).


While Cape Fife is generally an easy hike, its length makes it challenging for some. Allow anywhere from 4 to 6 hours to complete the hike one-way and be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks. The route is well-delineated with a combination of orange triangles and Ben Davidson’s trail marker.

DIFFICULTY: Moderate
TIME: 5 hours (one-way)
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal

  • Tlell Dunes Beach Trail
  • Tlell Dunes Walk
  • Tlell Dunes Walk
  • Tlell Dunes Walk

TLELL DUNES WALK FEATURES:
·       Sandy beach
·       Early settler history

ABOUT

The “Tlell Dunes Walk” has only ever been mentioned in Fern Henderson’s seminal text, Queen Charlotte Islands: Trail Hikes and Beach Walks (1978). Out of mere curiosity, we decided to check out this beach walkout. 

Indeed, while much has changed since Henderson’s book was first published, the directions provided for this particular walk remained virtually unchanged in the current day. 

In short, you will find the start of this “beach walk” approximately 3 kilometres south of the Tlell River Bridge and just north of Wiggins Road. A rough dirt road on the ocean side of Highway 16, not far from Hydro Pole 742, indicates the start of this walk. 

To begin, gingerly make your way over the rocky shoreline and mountains of driftwood to the beach below. Once on the beach, walk approximately 2 kilometres north and link up with the Misty Meadows Loop trail.

Henderson describes this hike as “a family dune walk for a sunny day.” It certainly is family-friendly, but we’d recommend walking this beach – also known as “Wiggins Road Beach” in the current day – on a low tide; otherwise, you’ll spend the duration hiking over stones of various sizes. The sandy beach is really only exposed during low tides.

At low tide, a significant, firm, sandy beach is exposed. The cool waters of the Pacific Ocean may beckon and call you for a swim; or, if beach combing is your thing, the numerous tide pools that typically form may be of interest. 

If you choose to walk closer to the marram grass and treeline, keep an eye on some of the fence posts that line this path – they belong to Richardson Ranch and some date back to 1920.

Besides the local settler history on the one hand and the powerful ocean on the other, the major attraction of this walk, according to Henderson, is the presence of sand dunes. In 2023, we view this statement as more of a historic curiosity and testament to the changing shoreline of Haida Gwaii. 

There are certainly very minor sand dunes to be seen along this route, but the more notable ones are observed on the Misty Meadows loop trail and nearby Pesuta/East Beach hikes. Perhaps dunes were more significant here 45 years ago but, in the modern day, the beach itself takes center stage.

In any event, after you’ve walked approximately 2 kilometres, you can either continue along the Misty Meadows loop (which you will have entered by this point) or simply turn back and return the way you came. The original exit of this route – a path near the Parks building – has long since disappeared.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 4 kilometers (return)
TIME: 1hr 20mins
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • East Beach Trail
  • East Beach Trail
  • East Beach Trail
  • East Beach Trail

EAST BEACH TRAIL FEATURES:
·       Miles of remote beach
·       White Cliffs
·       Wild Cows

ABOUT

Often described as “Haida Gwaii’s version of the West Coast Trail,” the East Beach Trail wilderness hike is a multi-day trek that will take you from the Tlell Day Use area all the way up towards Cape Fife and, if you’re feeling up to it, Rose Spit and Tow Hill. The total length of the hike depends on your desired exit point. If you choose to conclude your adventure at Cape Fife, you’ll have hiked approximately 78 kilometres when it’s all said and done; or, if you choose to do the Rose Spit loop, the total length of the trail is about 89 kilometres. Either way, it’s a long sojourn and Parks Canada recommends 4 to 8 days to complete the hike; however, the happy medium seems to be anywhere between 3 to 5 days, depending upon one’s fitness level and ambition.

Because this hike is multi-day, it is different from others on Haida Gwaii (the majority of which are day hikes or shorter). In brief, East Beach demands much greater preparation. In order to do this hike, and do it safely, we’d recommend some pre-planning by considering the following:

  • It is suggested that you hike SOUTH to NORTH so that prevailing winds will be at your back. Hiking in this direction should also shield you from being directly hit by torrential rains.
  • Bring enough supplies to last the length of your hike (in days).
  • Ensure you bring enough water OR a good quality water filter (we suggest LifeStraw). Fresh water is surprisingly difficult to come by along East Beach. If using a water filter, don’t be alarmed by the “brown” colour of your water – it’s perfectly safe to drink!
  • Have knowledge of – and be able to read – a tide table. Sections of East Beach should be completed on a low or receding tide.
  • Plan to cross rivers on a receding tide; the 3 major rivers along this route cannot be safely navigated on a high tide. We’ve seen unprepared hikers who started their adventure “whenever” and had to wait 5+ hours to cross a river!
  • The area known as “White Cliffs” is approximately 20 kilometres long and MUST be completed on a receding tide. If you get caught here on a rising tide, that could spell trouble!
  • There are 2 recognized shelters along the route: The first is at Cape Ball and the second is at Cape Fife. Older maps of East Beach indicate another shelter near the Oeanda River; however, we didn’t notice it (didn’t take the time to look!). There are other informal shelters along the way, too, signified by buoys and floats on driftwood.

The East Beach Trail, while long and somewhat arduous, can be a fun adventure with the above points
kept in mind.

Once you cross the Cape Ball River, you’ll encounter the White Cliffs. Again, do this on a receding tide because the cliffs go on for some 20 kilometres and you don’t want to get stuck here! Nevertheless, this area of East Beach is extremely photogenic and, for us, represented one of the highlights. Once you clear the White Cliffs, there is “some interesting landscape but [it gets] mostly monotonous,” to quote another write-up. In short, it’s miles and miles of sand, interspersed with dunes and – in one area called the junk pile – a lot of debris from overseas.

Despite the length of the East Beach hike, there’s really not much to say in terms of narrative. Hiking from the Tlell River Day Use area, you’ll begin in a lovely and lush forest, which runs for about 2 kilometres. From here, you’ll emerge along the banks of the Tlell River and trek for the better part of 4 kilometres towards the Pesuta Shipwreck. Along the way, you might spy river otters frolicking in the Tlell and you’ll most definitely come across a couple of abandoned cabins – the perfect place to rest and have a snack!

As you approach the Pesuta, the sand dunes will undoubtedly grab your attention. From Pesuta, you’ll cross the Mayer River and make your way toward Cape Ball, which is approximately 6 kilometres down East Beach. While the sand is mostly firm, we found that comfortable footwear, i.e.: crocs are ideal here as it gives your feet a bit of a break . . . something you’ll need because you’ll be walking on a LOT of sand!

Anyway, the Cape Ball Shelter represents a nice place to stop depending upon your time of arrival. The shelter, restored in 2017, is small and rustic, but beats staying out in the elements! Speaking of which, did you know Cape Ball may have historically been a watering hole for mammoths? Research conducted in 2015 discovered a large abundance of dung-eating fungi under a layer of peat.

After crossing the Oeanda (the largest river along East Beach), you have the option of hiking along the beach OR exploring the grasslands and wild strawberry fields. For us, the grasslands were a welcomed change of pace, if only because they offered different scenery… . for a while. Seriously, you’d almost think you were transported over to the prairies – not the “edge of the world!” After a time, Cape Fife will come into view and this can be an early exit point or a rest stop before continuing on to Rose Spit and Tow Hill. The Cape Fife Shelter is large and luxurious in comparison to Cape Ball. You may find it difficult to leave 😉

We explored the Rose Spit loop and enjoyed the salty air and seeing Hecate Strait and Dixon Entrance meet. It’s so cool to observe East Beach and North Beach on opposite piles of driftwood! On the other hand, this area is kind of funny, too, because you get passed by many a local and tourists on their vehicles, either food gathering or checking out the culturally significant Rose Spit. Still, it’s fun because you encounter another (small) shipwreck – the Kelly Ruth – and get the pleasure of seeing Tow Hill from a unique perspective.

We did not encounter much wildlife on our East Beach explorations: Some eagles, ravens, beach crabs, a few deer, and a small herd of the fabled wild cows. We came across some bear paw prints, but no bears. Interestingly, as we got further north, we did observe a few carcasses on the beach. It was difficult to tell what they were, due to their states of decomposition, but I’d guess small whales. They smelled lovely 😉

At day’s end, is East Beach worth the time? Absolutely, if you want to partake in an epic hike; however, we wouldn’t say it’s essential. There are plenty of worthy day trips at either end of East Beach (Pesuta, Tow Hill and Rose Spit) – just drive the highway in between! And, if you really want to see the enormous White Cliffs, you can do so as part of a day hike that includes Pesuta because it’s entirely possible to hike out to the start of the Cliffs near Cape Ball and return to the Tlell Day Use site within the span of a day.

DIFFICULTY: Hard
TOTAL DISTANCE: 89 kilometers
TIME: Multi-day
TYPE: Point-to-Point
ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Sangan River Trail
  • Sangan River Trail
  • Sangan River Trail
  • Sangan River Trail

Sangan River Trail Features
·       Fishing access point
·       Cultural significance


Please note: The Sangan River Trail can only be hiked on a receding or low tide.


ABOUT

The Sangan River (SGangan Gandlee) is a culturally significant river for the Haida. For thousands of years, they’ve used it for culture, food gathering, and recreational purposes. The river slowly meanders out of Naikoon Provincial Park spills out into the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, where the ocean and river meet is like a collision of two different, yet highly related worlds. It makes us recall, and reflect upon, an important Haida value: Gina ‘waadluxan gud ad kwaagid – Everything depends on everything else.

The Sangan River Trail is perhaps better described as a river walk than an actual trail. There is no formal trailhead, nor trail markers denoting the route; however, it is very easy to find and represents a peaceful walk – one that allows you to disconnect from the wired world and re-connect with nature and the elements. To access the Sangan River Trail, drive 10-minutes outside of Masset until you come upon the Sangan River Bridge. Park your vehicle somewhere safely off the road and cross the bridge (the side nearest Limberlost Place). Now simply descend to the banks of the Sangan River. From this point, the trail runs approximately 900 meters before rounding the point to South Beach and connecting to the epic 25-kilometre (one-way) Tl’lellan to Old Massett Trail – an epic beach walk that takes you from Tow Hill into Old Massett, or vice versa.

From a recreational perspective, the Sangan River Trail represents an easy walk for people of all skill levels because the terrain is flat. Most people, if using it for hiking, tend to connect with South Beach for a more epic and worthwhile adventure; otherwise, the Sangan is primarily used for kayaking and as a world-renowned fishing river: Pink, Coho and Chum Salmon are regularly caught here.

In many respects, walking the Sangan River Trail reminded me of the larger Misty Meadows beach loop trail. In both instances, you’re walking the banks of famous fishing rivers; both rivers are low, calm and meander for many a mile; and both carry with them a deep cultural significance far greater than any of us could ever explain. At day’s end, though, the Sangan River, much like the Tlell further south, calms the mind and relaxes the soul.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.8km (return)
TIME: 40 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Miller Beach
  • Miller Beach
  • Miller Beach
  • Miller Beach
  • Miller Beach
  • Miller Beach

Miller Beach Features:
Beach access
Swimming

ABOUT

Located approximately 5 minutes north of Skidegate by car, you’ll find Chinukundl Creek, more popularly known as Miller Creek. Just up from the bridge, you’ll also spy Chinukundl Road. Turning up the road will take you into the informal community known as Miller Creek.

If you’re wondering where the name “Miller Creek” comes from, the area was named after Mr. Müller, an early settler who had a homestead near the creek prior to 1908. While the area was first called Müller’s Creek, it has morphed and changed with the passage of time to the “Miller Creek” of today. Interestingly, according to Dalzell, Mr. Müller had once thought he found gold at Mayer River, causing him to call it Gold Creek” – a name you still see today.


Almost directly across from Chinukundl Road, you’ll see the unmarked – but plainly obvious – trail to Miller Beach. The trail is wide enough for ATVs (their tracks readily apparent) and is well-used by locals.


During Spring and Summer, it is not unusual to see a line of vehicles parked alongside the road and many a patron enjoying this picturesque hidden gem of a beach. At high tide, the beach is mostly pebbles and rock but, come low tide, soft sand is revealed.

Enjoy a walk along the beach; beachcombing in the small tidal pools; or, a weenie roast and picnic. Hidden in plain sight, Miller Beach is perfect for the whole family.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 200 meters (return)
TIME: 4 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
  • Misty Meadow Beach Loop Trail
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail

Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail Features

Sand dunes
Beach access
Proximity to campground

ABOUT

Primarily thought of as a campground, Misty Meadows offers a whopping 30 sites for campers. Potable water, picnic tables and pit toilets are also available on-site. From a recreational perspective, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail serves as a nice introduction to the wonders of Naikoon Provincial Park. It offers beach access and some nice hiking. From the main campsite, the beach is literally a 3-minute walk; however, we’d argue the beach is only particularly noteworthy during a very low tide. At other times, the beach in this area is rock and pebbles. For those wishing to hike, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail offers two options: 1) A short beach loop, which clocks in at about 1km round-trip; and, 2) A much longer beach loop, which comes in at around 10.5km round-trip.

The shorter loop is well marked – just follow the posted signage. It should take about 20 minutes to complete and goes through the forest, sand dunes and beach. Note: There are a couple of side trails at the dunes – one of which takes you to the park boundary and beyond; however, please note that once you hit the boundary (denoted with a small sign), you will be skirting along private property. The dunes in this part of Naikoon are nice, but there are much larger ones further north along the Pesuta and East Beach trails.

If you’re feeling energetic, though, the longer loop may be for you. Basically, start at the same point as the shorter loop. Once you begin walking north along the beach, DO NOT turn in toward the Misty Meadows campsite; instead, just keep walking north for a good 5 kilometres or so. You will eventually come upon the mouth of the Tlell River and, assuming its low tide, you can actually get fairly close to the Pesuta Shipwreck, which sits on the opposite side of the river. From here, and for another 5 kilometres, the “loop” basically follows the Tlell River inland. Walking this route, you will come across impressive sand dunes and spy remnants of previous settlements. During Spring and early Summer, the dunes are full of wild strawberries while the sandy riverbank is rife with delectable sea asparagus.

Once you reach the Haida House, you can continue walking along the Tlell via the riverbank or Beitush Road. It is not uncommon to see locals fishing for steelhead, coho and trout along this stretch of the river. The “trail” will eventually have you cross Beitush Road and walk a short way up the dirt road towards Tlell cemetery. A few meters in, you will see the trail, denoted by a pink flagging tape, resume to your right. This single-file, well-maintained stretch runs for about 500 meters and brings you out by one of Misty Meadows’ more notable attractions, lovingly referred to as “the big tree.” From here, simply walk along the paved road back to the Misty Meadows campground.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 10.5 kilometers
TIME: 2 hours
TYPE: Loop
ELEVATION GAIN: None