Four Corners Trail showing the obvious old wagon road
The big sitka spruce trees dot the trail, some of them growling in the wind blow
One can see the man-made ditches along the old wagon trail
The trail logically ends on Swan Creek although one can be adventurous and cross the natural log bridge
FOUR CORNERS TRAILS • Naikoon Provincial Park • Early Settler history
ABOUT
Four Corners Trail is located immediately east of the Hiellen River Bridge in Naikoon Provincial Park. The route is a settler wagon road, established initially circa 1910, to access parcels of land further inland. To access this trail, begin at the Cape Fife Trailhead and follow that route for approximately 5 minutes.
You will come upon an information board detailing the Cape Fife route. A marker to your left will signify the continuance of the 10 km-long Cape Fife trail. If you look to your RIGHT, you will see an unmarked but obvious trail – this is the beginning of the Four Corners route.
The full length of the Four Corners Trail is approximately 5 kilometres; however, today, only the first 2.5 kilometres or so can be safely hiked. Significant blowdown and overgrowth make walking the full route – eventually connecting with the more popular White Creek Trail and Carr-Whittle routes – hazardous. The first part of the trail, however, makes for a pleasantly short hike.
The old settler wagon road is now fringed with tall trees and thick mosses, giving an almost otherworldly appearance. Some massive cedar trees line the route, their low-hanging branches reminiscent of a scene from Sleepy Hollow! As we hiked the trail, we kept an eye out for previous human habitation.
Unfortunately, besides the old wagon road, the only evidence of previous human development we saw was some old machinery near the start of Four Corners and the old drainage ditches, which were all dug with pick and spade. As you observe these scenes, it’s not difficult to imagine what life might’ve been like in the early 20th century, as settlers attempted to establish roots and carve new routes.
About mid-way along the hike-able portion of the trail, you’ll round a corner and enter an area we’ve dubbed “cedar alley” due to the significant number of large cedar trees that line this section of the route. Keep a close eye on these special trees because a few of them are CMTs – they were “culturally modified” by the Haida hundreds of years ago. It is a powerful reminder that you’re treading on ancient Haida territory.
You will eventually come upon Swan Creek, which is a tributary of the Hiellen River. Of note, in her important book, Queen Charlotte Islands Trail Hikes and Beach Walks (1978), Fern Henderson reported that the bridge over Swan Creek was “very precarious and may not be usable.” 45 years later the man-made bridge is all but gone.
As such, this is the logical end-point of the Four Corners route. We say “logical” because while it is possible to go beyond the creek using a narrow natural log bridge, this is ill-advised for those not steady on their feet!
If you wish to hike this trail, parking is available in the nearby Tow Hill parking lot. It is advisable to bring a compass and/or use an app like BRMB or AllTrails as this is an unmarked/unmaintained route that is quite overgrown.
One can go closer to the creek side with no problem
In the summer, the Piper Creek is more calmer
Some foraging delights in Piper Creek Trail
PIPER CREEK TRAIL FEATURES: · Monumental trees · Foraging
ABOUT
The Piper Creek Trail is located approximately 3 kilometres west of Sandspit, adjacent to the “Piper Creek” bridge, heading towards the Kwuna ferry line-up. There is no formal parking; however, there is enough space on the shoulder of Piper Creek Bridge for two small cars. The trailhead is indicated by a small white marker a few feet from the bridge.
While there is minor elevation gain, we would classify Piper Creek Trail as easy. The route is mostly flat and well-marked for its duration. The trail, which winds through a mix of alder, spruce and cedar, basically follows Piper Creek upstream for about a kilometre before terminating at a small ravine adjacent to the creek. The dense forest part of the trail heading to the creek access is a relaxing experience and it is encouraged to take the time to savour forest walking.
Indeed, the trail is short, but it also connects to other routes like Around the Pond and Onward Point, making for a more robust hike. The connecting trail towards Onward Point, notably, takes you through a stand of monumental cedar trees sure to delight the tree-lover in all of us.
Along with being a relatively popular hiking trail, Piper Creek is also used for local foraging. The outstanding Raincoast Breads, for example, will come here and forage, Woodruff, Oyster mushrooms and even “aromatic” stones. We’ve also witnessed some large “Chicken of the Woods” growing near the entrance of this route.
Note: There is also a short trail directly across Highway 16, opposite the Piper Creek trailhead. Just look out for blue flagging tape. This brief route, which clocks in at about 250 meters one-way, takes you to the mouth of Piper Creek, through the trees and down to the beach.
The lighting of the afternoon setting sun creates a magical forest scenery
One of the plank “bridges” on the muddy parts of the trail
The Gore Brook on the trail
20 minutes into the Gore Brook Trail, you can find this waterfall
The dense trees in the trail plays good light to relax on the trail
Winter scene in the trail
At some point in the trail, carefully placed sea shell markers can be observed
Gore Brook spilling into the Daajing Giids ocean waters
Illuminated parts of the forest
In summer, most of the trail looks “greener”
GORE BROOK TRAIL FEATURES: • Forest therapy • School project
ABOUT
The Gore Brook Trail is one of 5 “community trails” in the Village of Daajing Giids. Unlike most trails on Haida Gwaii, Gore Brook actually has formal trailhead signage and is, therefore, easy to find. It has two main entry points: The first is at the top of 8th Street (north of the high school).
Once you reach the top of 8th, turn right and you should see the trailhead marker adjacent to a small side road. The second point of entry is on the 2nd avenue (above the municipal office), along the Village’s western end.
In terms of the community trails, Gore Brook is one of the better ones. First, it brings you marvellous examples of old-growth and second-growth forests. Second, the lush flora of the trail – and especially the vibrant mosses, ferns and other plant life – really highlights the fact that you’re hiking through a dynamic rainforest ecosystem unlike any other in the world. Third, if you enter Gore Brook at the 2nd Avenue entrance, you can gain quick access to a nice little waterfall – dubbed the Gore Brook Falls – approximately 20 minutes in. Fourth, the trail also provides hints of one of Haida Gwaii’s major historic industries: Logging. At a few points along the trail, those with a keen eye will notice some evidence of springboard logging.
While the trail is only about 1.6 kilometres long, it takes roughly an hour and a half to complete the full point-to-point route. The trail is quite rough and muddy in a lot of places. Additionally, there’s a significant amount of deadfall along the trail + root systems and a couple of creek crossings. As such, we’d strongly recommend the use of good boots so as to avoid getting your feet wet or muddy.
The trail is denoted in quite a unique way: With scallop shells! Follow them and you shouldn’t get lost. It’s kind of like following the breadcrumbs through the forest. But if following scallop shells isn’t your thing, don’t worry – white “diamond” markers also denote the main route.
Finally, it should be noted that Gore Brook connects with, and intersects, the village’s informal “backyard” trail system. These are a series of rough trails that are usually sans markers and can lead you astray if you’re not paying attention.
With Gore Brook, we don’t think getting lost is much of a problem since it’s pretty easy to follow the scallop shells and white markers. If entering Gore Brook from 2nd Avenue, however, you will come upon a fork in the trail system approximately 15 minutes into your hike.
If you continue to the RIGHT, you’ll stay on Gore Brook (and eventually come upon Gore Brook Falls). If you go LEFT, you’ll follow a backyard trail – which does have markers in this case – and will eventually exit onto the cul de sac at the end of Second Avenue, connecting with both Crabapple Creek Trail and the Crab Trap Trail.
While somewhat difficult, the Gore Brook Trail is a rewarding hike. The old growth, burls, abundant ferns, dynamic creek, and vibrant green mosses provide inspiration and energy. The local high school students, who played a key role in developing this trail in the late 1990s, did an excellent job.
In the current day, students – from high school and post-secondary – will occasionally use this trail for ecosystem interpretive work. As such, Gore Brook is as much a recreational hiking trail as it is a valuable learning opportunity.
Spirit Trail can have some decent log jam along its creeks
One of the lakes in the trails loops
The jam logs make way for the water from the lakes
Beautiful shrubs and big trees dot the sides of the trails
Spirit Lake Trail boasts of Dogwood flowers in summer
The main bridges one goes on the trail
The bridges and walkways on the trail makes it a favourite to locals
One of the CMT sample along Spirit Lake Trail
Frozen Spirit Lake Trail
Aerial shot of the Spirit Lake Trail
SPIRIT LAKE TRAIL FEATURES · Culturally Modified Trees · Haida history · Interpretive hike
ABOUT
Spirit Lake Trail (GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu) is located in Skidegate, just off Highway 16 and behind the George Brown Recreation Centre – clearly marked with a carved Wasco at the trail’s head. A smaller totem also sits close to the trail’s entrance, near the pit toilet.
Popular with tourists and locals alike, this well-maintained easy hike offers the curious a portal through which to view Haida Gwaii’s natural beauty: The carpeted moss floor; the meandering creeks; beautiful cedar and spruce trees; culturally modified trees (CMTs); a plethora of eagles and woodpeckers; wild blueberries and mushrooms; the large Haida Gwaii black bear; and, of course, Spirit Lake itself. Each of these elements complements the overall setting and lends a picture of serenity.
Whether one chooses the longer forest walk or Spirit Lake loop, one cannot help but recognize and acknowledge the inherent spirituality of the trail and its namesake lake. The presence of CMTs and culturally significant plants like Devil’s Club help to reinforce the fact that the Haida have used – and continue to utilize – this area since time immemorial.
In that regard, you know that you share the trail not just with the physical bodies you encounter, but those you do not see as well. The quietness and calm of the lake have much to say if we choose to listen and attune ourselves to its message.
The trail is not physically demanding and allows you to experience some of the best that Haida Gwaii has to offer. Free walking tours by Gaajiiaawa are also available during the summer, providing a fuller picture and appreciation of the trail and its significance. Depending on the route you choose, the total time spent here ranges from 1 to 2 hours.
In 2021 and 2022, GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu underwent trail maintenance and received important Upgrades: The compacted gravel walkway was significantly redone; 20 new boardwalks were installed, replacing aging infrastructure, and recent posts for future interpretive signage were installed. One of the new boardwalks now extends out into the lake, giving hikers better and safer access to this particular body of water.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 5.3 kilometers TIME: 1 to 2 hours TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: 60 meters
The Anvil Trail goes along some parts of the Tlell River
The carefully placed board walk makes it an easier hike
The hiking trail is evident on the ground
ANVIL TRAIL FEATURES: · Log Jam · Old growth forest · Interpretive hike
ABOUT
The Anvil Trail, which is located in the Tlall Conservancy, is one of the more popular trails on Haida Gwaii and is the only maintained route originally developed by the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS). It follows a 5-kilometre interpretive route and takes you through second-growth forests, old-growth, riparian floodplains, and even some minor boggy sections.
Much of the trail follows the meandering Tlell River before re-entering the dense forest and returning you to Highway 16, approximately 100 meters from where you started your journey.
The Anvil Trail takes you through several different environments and therefore becomes a destination in itself. When we did the hike, we opted to go against the grain and started our journey approximately 100 meters south of the standard trail entrance, which is located directly across from the Mariners Point parking lot. Of course, the entrance you choose is entirely up to you as the Anvil is ultimately a big loop trail.
The initial part of the Anvil Trail – at both entrances – is a dense and cluttered forest, very reminiscent of scenes from the Blair Witch Project (1999); however, after about 30 minutes, the trail does open up to more typical re-growth and much nicer scenery. At the 40-minute mark, if you’ve started your journey via the south entrance (as we did), you will come upon signage advising you to “NOT HIKE DOWNSTREAM FROM THIS POINT.”
That’s because there are 3 separate paths in this area: The orange route, which takes you to the log jam; the blue route, which is a “shortcut” and brings you to the other side of the orange loop, back towards Highway 16; and an unsigned/unmarked trail, which follows the Tlell River for roughly 2.5km before reconnecting with the orange route.
The early portion of the unmaintained trail appears decent enough; however, it very quickly becomes overgrown and virtually impossible to follow. The lesson here? Stay on the marked and maintained route!
Not long after this potentially disorienting area, the trail gets rather grown in and dense with salal bushes and other shrubs. At times, it almost felt like we needed a weed whacker! The trail also gets very miry at this point, but recent maintenance in the form of wooden stepping blocks has made navigating this section much easier.
If you manage to power through, you’ll be rewarded with this trail’s major attraction – the log jam! It is quite a sight and extends for some 250 meters along the Tlell River.
According to the posted signage, the Great Fire of the 1840s contributed to the jam when many of the burnt and mangled trees fell into the river. There are some rough side trails here that allow you to get closer to the log jam, but we recommend viewing from up above.
From here on out, the trail loops back to Highway 16 and takes you through some lovely old-growth forest consisting of massive cedar and Sitka spruce trees.
While the hike is mostly uneventful at this point, you may still encounter a few areas where earlier storms have knocked over large trees and effectively blocked the trail, requiring some creative detours.
Once you reach the point known as the “Big Bend” (a few hours into your hike if entering from the south, or a mere 30 minutes if you began at the signed trailhead directly across from Mariners Point), you again come upon a confluence of trails.
The orange markers will take you to the log jam (or back to the Highway if you’re hiking FROM the log jam); the blue markers represent a “shortcut” to the opposite end of the Anvil Trail; and, you can also choose to walk EAST adjacent the Tlell River, along an unmarked and unmaintained trail.
This unmarked route is called the “Wiggins Road Trail” and, if you follow it for its full length – approximately 1.5km – you will eventually connect up to Wiggins Road. It’s a nice trail overall, but sections can be a little difficult to follow.
Overall, we’d say the Anvil Trail is worth the time and effort. The route is marked and the trail is nicely maintained for the most part. Furthermore, the interpretive signs throughout certainly enhance the experience and one’s appreciation of the Tlall Conservancy.
Oh, and if you’re wondering, “Why is it called Anvil Trail?” That’s because it follows a section of the Tlell River that, on the outline, resembles an anvil. How crazy is that?
The mossy forest and trees makes it a relaxing hike in White Creek Trail
Bog parts of the White Creek Trail
Harelda Lakes after the White Creek Trail
Bogs in bird’s eye view
WHITE CREEK TRAIL FEATURES – Bog environment – Settler remnants
ABOUT
Situated within Naikoon Provincial Park, White Creek Trail is a relatively flat 3.5-kilometre out-and-back trail. The trail, which is an early 20th-century settler wagon road, begins on the west side of White Creek, near the bridge. You’ll see a small sign – the trailhead marker – indicating that the route is not maintained.
Despite this, it’s clear the trail is “user maintained” because it was clear and easy to navigate for the duration of our hike. The first kilometre of the hike takes you through a beautiful second-growth forest, carpeted with thick green moss, along an unmistakable wagon road.
As you walk this section it’s not difficult to imagine the old settlers, in their horse and buggy, trudging along to their homesteads. In the current day, besides the obvious road, the hand-dug ditches and corduroy bridges are all that remain of this pioneering era along White Creek.
After about 30 minutes or so, you’ll emerge from the brush into what Go Haida Gwaii has described as “Haida Gwaii’s Serengeti.” The unique bog ecosystem – with its small ponds, grassland, and twisted and stunted pines – is certainly reminiscent of the African Savannah! As you hike this section of the White Creek Trail, you’ll notice several small side trails, all of which provide access to the bog.
We’d recommend taking your time here to explore but do tread gently. Depending on the time of year you visit, it’s possible to observe Shooting Stars, Labrador Tea, Sundews, and a host of other plants endemic to this environment. Who knows, you might even hear the frat boy-like calls of male grouse in the distance!
The bog section of White Creek Trail runs for about 2.5 kilometres before you come upon the “trail ends” signage. If you’re wearing good boots, it is possible to cross Kliki Damen Creek and continue some 19 kilometres, past the Harelda Lakes, all the way to East Beach along what eventually becomes the Carr-Whittle Trail. If you do this, though, please note that the route is not marked or maintained.
While there are other trails on Haida Gwaii offering access to bog environments (Nadu Homestead and Regier Lake, for example), White Creek is the most popular and, we’d suggest, photogenic.
If you visit, take your time here. The mystical and magical effect of forest and bog still occupies and entices the mind!
While there are a number of nice waterfalls on Haida Gwaii, most are either extremely remote and/or require a bit of effort to get to – some are some exceptions like the 5-Mile Marker Waterfall Trail. Then there are a select few that are relatively easy to access – even with a standard vehicle.
To access this small waterfall, simply drive approximately five kilometres along the QC Mainline. As you approach the “5 Mile Marker,” you should see the cascade to your RIGHT just off the side of the road. Once here, you can admire it from the safety of your vehicle or pull off the road as much as possible and then walk down to the waterfall.
If the road maintenance is decent, any SUV or standard car can be able to drive the stretch without no issues. Since it is a logging road, caution is always good on days logging trucks are actively using the QC Mainline roads.
Someone has marked the small creek with tape – no doubt to signify this lovely attraction! Once we’d meandered down to the base of these minor falls, we couldn’t help but be drawn into it – raw and beautiful nature at its best. We stood and admired the falls for several minutes; the rushing water relaxing against the pitter-patter of falling rain.
We should end this entry by offering a couple of important notes: 1) This waterfall, like most small waterfalls on Haida Gwaii, is best viewed either during or after significant rainfall. Viewing the falls during the dry season will likely yield disappointment. 2) Always remember that you are driving on active logging roads. If you don’t have a VHF radio to call out your position, give plenty of space and use caution while driving.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: N/A TIME: However long you want 😉 TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
The corduroy walkways are still visible in most parts of the trail
The Fall walk in the North Road launches a strew of generous patches of mushrooms (Oct 2022)
The wagon road that leads to the Inside Road, Pretty John’s, and Pontoons Meadow trails
Afternoon hikes also is welcome on a dry day to see the logs walkway
This mighty tree deafall points one to the Poontons Meadow Trail
POONTOONS TRAIL FEATURES · Early settler history · Pontoons Meadow · Foraging and hunting
ABOUT
Unlike most trails on Haida Gwaii, the Pontoons Trail actually has a signed trailhead marker. Unfortunately, the trail can still be a little tricky to find, if only because there isn’t much-published information available.
If you pick up the Backroad Mapbook at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre or download the app, you should have an idea of where the trailhead is. Nevertheless, we’ll endeavour to make finding this unique and epic hike a little easier to find:
Assuming you’re coming from Skidegate, drive roughly 17 kilometres along Highway 16 until you come upon the intersection of Lawn Hill Road. Turn left onto Lawn Hill Road.
Drive down Lawn Hill Road until you cross Lawn Creek Bridge. From here, and directly ahead, you’ll see a joke sign: “Violators will be prostituted.” This rather humorous sign indicates a private property; however, to your LEFT you will see a small yellow sign posted on an alder tree: “OLD WAGON ROAD.” This sign essentially signifies the start of your hiking adventure, but it is not the trailhead.
If you have a truck, it is possible to drive approximately 1 kilometre up this old road but, if you don’t, then we strongly recommend hiking it. There is some minor incline and fairly deep potholes along the way.
After you’ve walked or driven the 1 kilometre, you will see some blue and pink flagging tape to your RIGHT and a small footbridge. Cross this bridge onto a wide, but not the too obvious path. You should see the trailhead marker for the “Pontoons Wilderness and Historic Interpretive Route” straight ahead (and the trailhead marker for the Prettyjohn’s Trail route to your left).
From the trailhead sign, continue walking north. You are now en route to the Pontoons! It’s little wonder most people have difficulty finding this route or are completely ignorant as to its existence. In the current day, the trailhead isn’t exactly easy to find unless you already know where it is.
Difficulty in locating the trail aside, what makes this route a “must do” when visiting Haida Gwaii? In brief, you’ll want to hike this wild and remote route because it’s an immersive experience.
The full Pontoons trail is approximately 9 kilometres one way. Along the route, you get to experience settler and natural history; Haida culture; envelop yourself in outstanding examples of old-growth Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Red Cedar, and Riparian forest; and, of course, explore the unique fen and marsh complex that makes up the Pontoons.
Because the Pontoons hike is so rich, we will divide it into three manageable “chunks.” Two of the three “chunks” can be completed individually, as separate hikes in their own right: 1) The North Road; 2) Durant Homestead; and, 3) The Pontoons Meadow.
The North Road Trail
Walking the North Road Trail on foggy days makes it a magical and must-repeat experience (Oct 2022)
Once you reach the Pontoons trailhead marker noted above, you’ll officially be on the North Road which, as the name suggests, basically runs north for about 4 kilometers before turning west (or LEFT, if you prefer that term) towards the Pontoons Meadow.
This section of the hike is an old wagon road developed in 1910 as part of a government strategy to encourage settlement in the area. The land was sold for cheap, but living here wasn’t easy.
Much of the designated farming land was originally muskeg and therefore incredibly low in nutrients. A lot of hard work went into making the land arable; however, because of the challenges faced, most settlers were gone by the early 1930s.
In the early 1900s, this route had a lot of small homestead cabins dotting the road, but most of these were abandoned by the end of the First World War. Unfortunately, not many remains of ye olde pioneering spirit today.
There is, of course, the old wagon road itself and, as you hike, you will see and cross some corduroy bridge structures. Besides that, the only other notable evidence of past settlement along this section of the Pontoons trail is the hand-dug drainage ditches, which run along large segments of the North Road.
While the North Road is pleasant to hike at any time of the year, we’ve found it to be especially magical during autumn. As you walk the moss-covered road, its surface comes to life with all sorts of unique fungi, including chanterelles and honeys. It’s a proverbial mushroom picker’s delight.
And the old road, with its towering trees and dense fog, creates an almost magical, otherworldly environment. Indeed, for us, this segment of the Pontoons is the very definition of forest therapy.
After hiking approximately 3 kilometres, you will come upon an active logging road. It is called “Lawn Hill Road North” and is fairly recent, only having been built in the last 15 years. Prior to its construction, the North Road travelled uninterrupted for just over 4 kilometres. This “break” in the trail represents the second “chunk” of the route: The Durant Homestead.
The Durant Homestead
The rhododendrons in Durant Homestead framed one of the well-built cabins
After crossing the logging road, continue north for approximately 1.5 kilometres towards – you guessed it – the Durant Homestead. While part of the North Road, the Village of Daajing Giids has this segment of the old wagon road listed as a separate trail on its Visitor Centre website. Indeed, while we find this kind of odd, it is nevertheless possible to access the “Durant Homestead Trail” by itself.
Unfortunately, the Visitor Centre is wonderfully vague in this regard: “Access old corduroy road [. . .] from 6.5 k on Lawn Hill Road North.” If driving from Skidegate, drive north for approximately 22 kilometres until you see the crudely written “LAWN NORTH MAIN” sign to your left.
When you turn onto this dirt road, be aware that you’re driving on an active logging road, so take the necessary precautions. The road is in decent enough shape that an SUV could probably drive it, but you might “bottom out” on the steep incline near the beginning of the road.
After the initial hill, though, the road remains relatively flat. Drive along Lawn North for 10 minutes, or approximately 5.3 kilometres (the Village of Daajing Giids says 6.5 kilometres, but this is wrong). At this point, you should see the fancy trailhead marker for the Durant Homestead Trail: A stump with some rocks piled on top of it!
From here, the Durant Homestead is approximately 40 minutes, or 1.5 kilometres, down the North Road. While the first part of this trail is quite miry, the rest of it remains in relatively good shape.
There are some muddy sections; parts of the corduroy road are slippery and loose; and, there is some deadfall requiring you to get down on your knees but, for the most part, the trail is easy to navigate and follow.
As you amble about this route, it’s not difficult to transport oneself to an earlier time, circa 1910, when homesteaders were trying to cultivate and develop this land.
About mid-way through your hike, you’ll come upon a sign: “The Great Fire of the 1840s.” Without a bit of context, this might seem rather queer. 20 years ago, the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS) undertook a project of developing/maintain a number of trails in the Tlell Watershed area.
The purpose was essentially twofold: 1) Create awareness of, and protect and conserve the watershed; and, 2) Provide an opportunity for people to experience this unique wilderness through interpretive hiking trails. Signage like “The Great Fire” was posted at strategic points along TWS trails and was originally meant to be accompanied by a short booklet.
Unfortunately, a lack of funds resulted in nearly zero formal upkeep and a good number of these trails – especially Three Mile Creek, Monique Creek and Old Growth Alley – fell into rapid disuse. While some interpretive signage has survived, most have fallen to the elements.
If you’ve kept a keen eye throughout your hike, chances are you will have noticed a number of burnt trees – these are all a result of the “Great Fire of the 1840s.” The cause of the fire remains unknown, but it burned a massive amount of forest from the upper Tlell all the way to Masset.
You will also see evidence of this fire on other trails in the Tlell area: Prettyjohn’s, Old Growth Alley and the Anvil Trail. After walking about 40 minutes from the Durant trailhead, you’ll come upon a large fallen Sitka spruce tree. If you look beyond it, you’ll see signage for the Pontoons – this represents the third “chunk” of our hike. But more on that in a moment.
If you intend to visit the Durant Homestead, look to the immediate left of the fallen tree. You’ll spy a small wooden bridge – follow it a few minutes to the homestead.
As you can see, these structures are modern and still occasionally used by hunters today. Besides the well-constructed cabin, you’ll also see an old outhouse, garden, sauna, and what appears to be a chicken coup on site.
During spring and early summer, the rhododendron bushes are in bloom and make for an impressive site. Before you leave, be sure to sign the guestbook in the cabin!
The Pontoons Meadow
The crude wooden sign points you to the right direction of the Pontoons Trail
The Pontoons are approximately 3 kilometres, or 1.5 hours, beyond the Durant Homestead. From this point, the old wagon road becomes less evident, but still easy to follow thanks to flagging tape.
After navigating some wet/boggy areas, you will finally reach the Tlell River and Pontoons at the 8.8-kilometre mark. Welcome to the Pontoons Meadow!
The Pontoons, often referred to as the “Heart of the Tlell,” make up the majority of the Tlall Heritage Site/Conservancy. Because it is Haida Gwaii’s only interior wetland ecosystem, numerous moves have been made to protect it, including a failed attempt in the 1980s. In 1996, Survey Creek (a tributary of the Tlell River) and the Pontoons were identified by the Province as “Goal 2 Study Areas” under the Protected Areas Strategy due to their “unique” characteristics.
In 2008, the area was formally protected with the signing of the Haida Gwaii Strategic Land Use Agreement, which stated that protected areas – like the Pontoons – are to be set aside for cultural, spiritual, ecological and recreational purposes. They are also to be maintained for the education and enjoyment of future generations.
After such a lengthy and, at times, challenging hike, the views presented by the Pontoons are a breath of fresh air. Mostly flat and relatively shallow, the Pontoons Meadow is home to a unique wetland environment on Haida Gwaii: Bogs, Fens and Marshes all call this 690-hectare space home. Viewed from above, you can observe all tributaries of the Tlell – less Geikie Creek – converging at the Pontoons.
As a result, the ground is rich in nutrients, contributing to the diverse flora of the area. It is also what attracts the island’s local elk population, introduced in 1929, to the area.
Besides the beautiful natural environment, there’s also a bit of history – or folklore – attached to the Pontoons. Allegedly there was once a & quote “floating barn” on the Pontoons, built for storing hay.
As the story goes, farmers producing cattle allowed their herd to enjoy the grounds in summer; however, because the Pontoons often flood during the winter months, a “floating barn” was created so that, when the Tlell floods its banks, the barn and its cargo of precious hay would simply float up with the swelling river.
The existence of this barn hasn’t been verified, but a structure – possibly the fabled barn – can be found at about the 9.1-kilometre mark.
All in all, the Pontoons Trail is an epic hike on a number of fronts. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can choose to tackle it in one 18-kilometre round-trip swoop, or just walk segments of the route (North Road and Durant).
No matter what you decide, you’ll enjoy old growth and second growth forest; settler history in the form of the wagon road and its associated structures; gain an appreciation of Haida cultural values; and, of course, totally immerse yourself in the beating heart of the Tlell River.
Pretty John’s Trail boast of pristine forest parts
The “Old Wagon Road” trail head
One of the many cordoroy bridges in the muddy parts of the trail
The Great Fire of the 1840s
Some parts have endless moss covering the both sides of the path
The Pretty John’s Meadow which is pointed as the main camping ground by hidden signage
Near the beginnings of Tlell River that leads to the Tlell Falls
PRETTY JOHN’S TRAIL FEATURES · Early Settler history · The Great Fire of 1940s · Tlell Falls
ABOUT
Like many trails on Haida Gwaii, it can be challenging to locate Prettyjohn’s trailhead thanks to the nebulous and sparse literature out there. We shall endeavour to make finding this special trail a little easier:
If travelling north from Skidegate, drive roughly 17 kilometres along Highway 16 until you come upon the intersection to Lawn Hill Road. Turn LEFT onto Lawn Hill Road. Drive down Lawn Hill Road until you cross Lawn Creek Bridge. From here, and directly ahead, you’ll see a rather humorous sign: “Violators will be prostituted.”
This sign indicates private property; however, to your LEFT you’ll see a small yellow signposted to an alder tree: “OLD WAGON ROAD.” This sign signifies the start of your hiking adventure, but it is not the trailhead. Park your vehicle on the side of the road and prepare for your hike!
Begin hiking up this road. At about the 1-kilometre mark, you should see some pink and blue flagging tape to your RIGHT and a small footbridge. This is the start of the North Road and “Pontoons Wilderness Historic Interpretive Route.” If you cross the bridge and walk a few meters, you should also see a trailhead marker for Prettyjohn’s interpretive route to your LEFT.
While this side road is technically the start of the Prettyjohn’s hike, it has fallen into disuse over the last 20 years. Now, the standard practice is to IGNORE the aforementioned pink and blue flagging tape and CONTINUE walking west an additional 500 meters past some dilapidated Vehicles.
After hiking 1.5 kilometres, you will come upon another small footbridge. Cross the bridge and walk up a small hill. You will come upon an intersection in the settler wagon road. While it may be tempting to go left, you’ll actually want to go RIGHT (note the well-worn ATV tracks).
You are now on the Inside Road and on your way to Prettyjohn’s Meadow and the Tlell Falls! Follow the blue arrows for approximately 7.4 kilometres to reach the historic meadow.
“But,” you may be wondering, “why Prettyjohn’s?” Indeed, the name is kind of baffling, but the route is named after William Prettyjohn, one of the first British settlers to build in the area circa 1910.
According to the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS), he was a short, bowlegged man who wore thick glasses. Nevertheless, he exemplified the optimism of early pioneers, working his land on the banks of the upper Tlell River and producing many crops of delicious fresh fruits and vegetables.
He is purported to have walked the 12 miles from his homestead to Skidegate and Daajing Giids to sell his wares and then walk all the way back home almost daily. He was one of the last pioneers to depart the area, leaving in the early 1930s.
Today, the only evidence remaining of Prettyjohn’s homestead is the meadow, which is now promoted as an ideal remote camping spot – a special place to spend the night!
We should note, as an important aside, that there’s some debate about the name “Prettyjohn.” Some, like the Over the Hill Hikers Group and locals in Tlell, have suggested “Prettyjohn” is a misspelling of “Pettyjohn.”
We wouldn’t be surprised if this were the case – it’s happened before with the Pesuta Shipwreck trail. Regardless, it would appear “Prettyjohn” is the name that’s won out since it is recorded as such by the Tlell Watershed Society and Haida Nation. What do you think? 😉
As you hike the old settler road, you will come across signage like “The Inside Road,” “The Great Fire of the 1840s” and “Settlers in the Lawn Hill Area,” amongst a few others. These signs are remnants of the Tlell Watershed Society’s interpretive trails project of the early 2000s.
Back then, the TWS sought to maintain or develop important routes within the Tlell watershed and bring awareness to this rich and diverse ecosystem. One way to do that, they thought, was through wilderness interpretive hikes, of which Prettyjohn’s is one.
Signage was placed at strategic points along the trail and was to be accompanied by short booklets – which were available at Visitor Centres across the Island – to provide an explanation. Unfortunately, a lack of funding prevented regular upkeep and most of the trails fell into disuse.
The first part of this wilderness hike takes you along the Inside Road. This old road was constructed at the beginning of the 20th century by settlers hoping to develop farmland for crops away from the coast.
In order to make access to inland portions of the Tlell easier, they created this loop road: One end begins at Lawn Hill and the other near Miller Creek. The full Inside Road is approximately 15 kilometres in length, but the Prettyjohn’s route only takes you through the first 5 kilometres or so near Lawn Hill.
Today, when you hike the Inside Road/Prettyjohn’s route, not much of the pioneering history remains other than the wagon road, some ditching, corduroy bridges and a few fence posts. Still, the road remains in relatively good shape because it is still used by the hiking community and hunters (with the latter’s ATV tracks being very evident). It’s not difficult to imagine William Prettyjohn walking these roads to sell his fruits and vegetables.
As you make your way ever closer to Prettyjohn’s Meadow, you’ll likely notice many burned and charred trees along the way. These are the result of the “Great Fire” of the 1840s, which burned most of the upper Tlell all the way to Masset.
The cause of this fire is still hotly debated, but its effects can still be seen today, some 180 years after the fact. Indeed, the fire helps explain why the trees in this area of the Tlell are all roughly the same size – they started growing at the same time!
Approximately 30 minutes out from the Meadow, the settler wagon road splits. Pay close attention to where you’re going and be sure to follow the blue arrows! You’ll want to turn WEST to continue along Prettyjohn’s route. If you continued going SOUTH, you’d eventually make your way to Drain Lake and Miller Creek. Indeed, following the marked route on these wilderness routes is essential.
A hiker and his dog did get lost on this very trail in 2018. The ending was a happy one, but he had to spend the night in the bush!
Once you reach the meadow, take a lunch break and enjoy the quiet serenity! If you’ve still got enough energy to visit the majestic Tlell Falls, you must hike approximately 800 meters upstream from the meadow. If water levels are low enough, just follow the Tlell River and you’ll eventually come upon the Falls.
If necessary, you can also get to the Falls by hiking along some steep side hill that someone has flagged with tape. Be advised that this portion of the hike requires waterproof footwear and steady feet.
The Tlell Falls is a sight to see but, if we’re being honest, there are much nicer waterfalls on Haida Gwaii that aren’t quite as work-intensive: The Dover Falls and Blackwater Creek Falls, for example.
Overall, the Prettyjohn’s and Tlell Falls Historic Interpretive Route is a beautiful day hike. You get to observe pioneering history, second & old growth forest, and the idyllic Falls. Who knows, if you’re lucky, you might also encounter some of Haida Gwaii’s resident elk since they do like to visit this part of the Tlell.
Note: We would only recommend doing this hike during the summer months. From late September through late May, heavy rains could make some parts of this trail difficult, if not impossible to pass!
We’re speaking from personal experience here: We hiked the route once in late September – the start of the rainy season – and the trail was muddy and slippery most of the way. Once we arrived at the Meadow, it was so flooded it made any attempt at getting towards the Tlell Falls next impossible.
The still existing head trail sign of the Onward Point Trail (May 2020)
The steps that leads to the gazebo (Jan 2023)
Onward Point gazebo on a sunset (Jan 2023)
The forest greets your hike (May 2020)
Onward Point is a place to watch the fiery sunsets (Jan 2023)
ONWARD POINT TRAIL KEY FEATURES · Whale-viewing · Beach access · Gazebo
Located on Moresby Island, and approximately 10 minutes from the Kwuna ferry landing, the Onward Point Trail represents a leisurely, brief hike – just over 5 minutes one-way – to a beautiful cedar gazebo.
While at the gazebo, gaze out towards Skidegate Inlet and view the mighty seagulls as they dive for food; the abundant seals as they float about and cause mischief; and the graceful eagles as they soar overhead. If you’re lucky, you may even spy a grey whale or an orca in springtime.
After spending some time admiring the flora, continue along the loop back toward your vehicle.
Indeed, the Onward Point Trail is pretty straightforward. Once you reach the trailhead, you’ll observe signage identifying the route as “moderate difficulty.”
We think this is only partly true. As you begin your hike, you’ll immediately notice that the trail splits into a Y (the loop). We recommend going counterclockwise – to the right – as it’s the easier route. There is some deadfall along the way, but the trail is relatively flat and takes you through some nice spruce, ferns and cedar trees.
If you continue along the loop, from the gazebo, the trail does increase in difficulty but only because the earth is soft in some areas. If you wish to avoid this, simply go back to the way you came.
The Onward Point Trail is a nice break from modernity and offers a serene moment for reflection, thanks to the gazebo and the presence of fairy slippers in spring. If you wish to explore the rocky beach below, there is an informal trail leading down to the beach from the gazebo; however, use caution because the rocks below are often slippery.
Please note the Onward Point Trail does connect with the “Around the Pond” trail extension. If hiking the Onward Point loop counterclockwise, you’ll see the trail to your right about a minute or two into your hike.
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