ABOUT
CONTEXT
Located just a few feet from the western Crabapple Creek trailhead entrance (near the old M&B site),
you’ll spy the “Dempsey Collinson Chief Sgiidagids Memorial Trail” signage. The marker is posted on a
large alder tree but, depending upon the time of year, it can be difficult to spot as branches may
obstruct it from view. Who was Chief Skidegate and why is there a trail named in his honour? This is not
the place for a detailed biography, but it is helpful to provide a brief overview for context:
Dempsey Collinson became Chief Skidegate on 23 March 1973. The event was historically significant
because he became the first Haida of the 20th century to renew the ancient tradition of proclaiming his
chieftainship through the potlatch ceremony. As Chief Skidegate, he played an integral and life-long role
in the community: He helped guide the Council of the Haida Nation at their Hereditary Chiefs table; he
worked for his community at the Band level as a Councillor and Chief Councillor; he helped save the
Haida Gwaii Watchmen Program via a generous personal monetary donation in the 1980s; and he
provided food for the community, always stating “when the tide is low, the table is set.”
When Chief Skidegate passed away in 2008, the tragic loss was even acknowledged in the BC Legislature by Premier Campbell. As such, it is little wonder that Dempsey should have a trail bearing his name. Throughout his life, in both thought and deed, he fought for and protected, Haida Gwaii.
THE VISION
In 2017, local trailblazers Mark Walsh and Remi Gauthier pitched “a plateau trail between Skidegate and [Daajing Giids]” to the municipality of Daajing Giids and even presented a rough outline of where the trail might go. As per their sketch, the route would begin at Skidegate’s Spirit Lake Trail; climb towards Slarkedus Lake and then swing west, run along the top of the plateau through delicate bog and muskeg.
It would eventually pass by Regier Lake before beginning a slow descent and passing along the Gore
Brook and Crabapple Creek trails before exiting along the beach, rounding Haydn Turner and going
towards Kagan Bay and the log sort. From here, said Walsh and Gauthier, you could connect up with the Sleeping Beauty and Slatechuck Mountain trails. If the route came to fruition, it would be an epic trail that would run north of 10 kilometres one-way.
The idea received a warm reception from the municipality and Skidegate; however, funding difficulties
have prevented the full trail from taking shape. Nevertheless, a “rough draft” for a west-end loop began
development in 2018 and finished in early 2020. It is this version of the trail covered here.
THE REALITY
As was noted above, the Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail is located a few feet behind the western
Crabapple Creek trail marker, near the old M&B site. Just a few feet in, you will spy the rusted remains
of an old “diesel donkey” hidden behind some bushes to your RIGHT. After a couple of minutes, you’ll
come upon the first of many minor rope sections of the hike – this one bringing you down to Crabapple
Creek. Cross the creek and continue hiking north.
As you amble alongside Crabapple Creek, the trail is a bit overgrown thanks to an abundance of salmonberry bushes; however, after you clear them, the trail follows an old 1940s-era skid road and gently climbs. As you hike this section of the trail – crossing a Crabapple tributary along the way – you will spy more of Haida Gwaii’s early logging history: The skid road you’re hiking and many tree stumps, some showing clear evidence of springboard logging.
After climbing the slope and moving east, you begin to see the real treasures of the Dempsey Collinson
Memorial Trail: Significant groves of old-growth cedar which, for us, was reminiscent of the Old Growth
Alley Trail in Tlell. As you stand amongst this grove of ancient trees, you cannot help but feel small and
in awe. Look closely: Many of the ancient cedars here show evidence of bark-stripping by the Haida.
Continuing east towards the Gore Brook Trail, there is one major rope section to contend with but, once
you clear this hurdle, it’s a gradual descent down the ridge. You will eventually come upon scallop shells lining the trail. These were put in place by former school teacher and outdoor enthusiast, Kevin
Borserio.
These shells signify that you’ve completed the marked “Dempsey Collinson Memorial Trail” and entered the Gore Brook Trail. After completing Gore Brook, you can stop your hike here, at the cul-de-sac on Second Avenue, or enter the Crabapple Creek Trail and make the entire route a big loop trail.
Trail co-creator Mark Walsh has said that the marked route “shows the whole history of human
habitation on these islands.” That’s a lofty statement but, we think, holds true: As you hike this
moderately challenging route, you see ancient trees and landscapes; evidence of ancient Haida land use; early 20th-century logging practices; and contemporary outdoor recreation. The trail, while only a small part of the original vision, is still epic in its coverage.