Some of the old fence poles are still around from the settler’s history
The start of the beach trail from the edges of the ranch fence
Looking forward on the beach, dunes amiss
Smooth beach sands on some parts of the trail when low tide
TLELL DUNES WALK FEATURES: · Sandy beach · Early settler history
ABOUT
The “Tlell Dunes Walk” has only ever been mentioned in Fern Henderson’s seminal text, Queen Charlotte Islands: Trail Hikes and Beach Walks (1978). Out of mere curiosity, we decided to check out this beach walkout.
Indeed, while much has changed since Henderson’s book was first published, the directions provided for this particular walk remained virtually unchanged in the current day.
In short, you will find the start of this “beach walk” approximately 3 kilometres south of the Tlell River Bridge and just north of Wiggins Road. A rough dirt road on the ocean side of Highway 16, not far from Hydro Pole 742, indicates the start of this walk.
To begin, gingerly make your way over the rocky shoreline and mountains of driftwood to the beach below. Once on the beach, walk approximately 2 kilometres north and link up with the Misty Meadows Loop trail.
Henderson describes this hike as “a family dune walk for a sunny day.” It certainly is family-friendly, but we’d recommend walking this beach – also known as “Wiggins Road Beach” in the current day – on a low tide; otherwise, you’ll spend the duration hiking over stones of various sizes. The sandy beach is really only exposed during low tides.
At low tide, a significant, firm, sandy beach is exposed. The cool waters of the Pacific Ocean may beckon and call you for a swim; or, if beach combing is your thing, the numerous tide pools that typically form may be of interest.
If you choose to walk closer to the marram grass and treeline, keep an eye on some of the fence posts that line this path – they belong to Richardson Ranch and some date back to 1920.
Besides the local settler history on the one hand and the powerful ocean on the other, the major attraction of this walk, according to Henderson, is the presence of sand dunes. In 2023, we view this statement as more of a historic curiosity and testament to the changing shoreline of Haida Gwaii.
There are certainly very minor sand dunes to be seen along this route, but the more notable ones are observed on the Misty Meadows loop trail and nearby Pesuta/East Beach hikes. Perhaps dunes were more significant here 45 years ago but, in the modern day, the beach itself takes center stage.
In any event, after you’ve walked approximately 2 kilometres, you can either continue along the Misty Meadows loop (which you will have entered by this point) or simply turn back and return the way you came. The original exit of this route – a path near the Parks building – has long since disappeared.
The other way leads towards Beitush Road, giving way toward the banks of the Tlell River
The trail now splits into two paths, one towards cemetery and the other towards the start of Beitush Road
The endless moss greenery
The “big tree” or “wolf tree” that has been around for a long time.
Susan’s Trail Features: – A big wolf tree – Mossy forest walk – A route leading to Tlell River
ABOUT
We discovered Susan’s Trail quite by chance earlier this year while browsing the Hospital Day- sponsored “Trail Bingo.” The “bingo card” features a number of well-known short trails, including the aforementioned “Susan’s Trail” – the only one on the list we were unfamiliar with. After a bit of detective work, we discovered the trail, in the current day, is recorded on most maps as part of the larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail. Where, then, is Susan’s Trail and why is it important?
Susan’s Trail is unmarked, but its location is familiar: As you drive in towards the Misty Meadows campsite you will inevitably spy “the big tree” to your left. This marks the start, or trailhead, of Susan’s Trail. You can park your car on the side of the road or drive a couple of hundred meters forward to the campsite and park there before beginning your hike.
Susan’s Trail was developed by the late Susan Wright and her husband. It is single-track and runs for approximately 720 meters one-way through fairly dense salal early on before transitioning into mossy carpeted forest of a young hemlock. Within the final 70 meters, the trail runs close to Highway 16 and skirts the Tlell Cemetery, so if you’re afraid of ghosts or ghouls you might wish to skip this one 😉 At the trail’s terminus point, you will emerge onto the dirt road that leads to the cemetery.
From here, you have two options: Turn back and return the way you came OR walk out onto Beitush Road and stroll north along the Tlell River to experience and/or complete the larger Misty Meadows Loop Trail (described at length in another entry).
The trail, while brief, represents a good bit of local contemporary history. In that respect, it’s a shame the route is now just considered part of the larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail.
The endless beach at the Misty Meadows Beach Loop trail
The “main” camping grounds structures
The accessibility friendly section towards the beach
Aerial view of the sand dunes on the shorted beach loop trail
The Tlell River vista point where you can see the Pesuta Ship Wreck trail on the right, the Misty Meadow Beach Loop trail on the left
The trail lets you spy the Pesuta Ship wreck at a distance
Sand dunes on the trail
View of the trail from the Haida House side of Tlell River
Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail Features
Sand dunes Beach access Proximity to campground
ABOUT
Primarily thought of as a campground, Misty Meadows offers a whopping 30 sites for campers. Potable water, picnic tables and pit toilets are also available on-site. From a recreational perspective, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail serves as a nice introduction to the wonders of Naikoon Provincial Park. It offers beach access and some nice hiking. From the main campsite, the beach is literally a 3-minute walk; however, we’d argue the beach is only particularly noteworthy during a very low tide. At other times, the beach in this area is rock and pebbles. For those wishing to hike, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail offers two options: 1) A short beach loop, which clocks in at about 1km round-trip; and, 2) A much longer beach loop, which comes in at around 10.5km round-trip.
The shorter loop is well marked – just follow the posted signage. It should take about 20 minutes to complete and goes through the forest, sand dunes and beach. Note: There are a couple of side trails at the dunes – one of which takes you to the park boundary and beyond; however, please note that once you hit the boundary (denoted with a small sign), you will be skirting along private property. The dunes in this part of Naikoon are nice, but there are much larger ones further north along the Pesuta and East Beach trails.
If you’re feeling energetic, though, the longer loop may be for you. Basically, start at the same point as the shorter loop. Once you begin walking north along the beach, DO NOT turn in toward the Misty Meadows campsite; instead, just keep walking north for a good 5 kilometres or so. You will eventually come upon the mouth of the Tlell River and, assuming its low tide, you can actually get fairly close to the Pesuta Shipwreck, which sits on the opposite side of the river. From here, and for another 5 kilometres, the “loop” basically follows the Tlell River inland. Walking this route, you will come across impressive sand dunes and spy remnants of previous settlements. During Spring and early Summer, the dunes are full of wild strawberries while the sandy riverbank is rife with delectable sea asparagus.
Once you reach the Haida House, you can continue walking along the Tlell via the riverbank or Beitush Road. It is not uncommon to see locals fishing for steelhead, coho and trout along this stretch of the river. The “trail” will eventually have you cross Beitush Road and walk a short way up the dirt road towards Tlell cemetery. A few meters in, you will see the trail, denoted by a pink flagging tape, resume to your right. This single-file, well-maintained stretch runs for about 500 meters and brings you out by one of Misty Meadows’ more notable attractions, lovingly referred to as “the big tree.” From here, simply walk along the paved road back to the Misty Meadows campground.
The corduroy walkways are still visible in most parts of the trail
The Fall walk in the North Road launches a strew of generous patches of mushrooms (Oct 2022)
The wagon road that leads to the Inside Road, Pretty John’s, and Pontoons Meadow trails
Afternoon hikes also is welcome on a dry day to see the logs walkway
This mighty tree deafall points one to the Poontons Meadow Trail
POONTOONS TRAIL FEATURES · Early settler history · Pontoons Meadow · Foraging and hunting
ABOUT
Unlike most trails on Haida Gwaii, the Pontoons Trail actually has a signed trailhead marker. Unfortunately, the trail can still be a little tricky to find, if only because there isn’t much-published information available.
If you pick up the Backroad Mapbook at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre or download the app, you should have an idea of where the trailhead is. Nevertheless, we’ll endeavour to make finding this unique and epic hike a little easier to find:
Assuming you’re coming from Skidegate, drive roughly 17 kilometres along Highway 16 until you come upon the intersection of Lawn Hill Road. Turn left onto Lawn Hill Road.
Drive down Lawn Hill Road until you cross Lawn Creek Bridge. From here, and directly ahead, you’ll see a joke sign: “Violators will be prostituted.” This rather humorous sign indicates a private property; however, to your LEFT you will see a small yellow sign posted on an alder tree: “OLD WAGON ROAD.” This sign essentially signifies the start of your hiking adventure, but it is not the trailhead.
If you have a truck, it is possible to drive approximately 1 kilometre up this old road but, if you don’t, then we strongly recommend hiking it. There is some minor incline and fairly deep potholes along the way.
After you’ve walked or driven the 1 kilometre, you will see some blue and pink flagging tape to your RIGHT and a small footbridge. Cross this bridge onto a wide, but not the too obvious path. You should see the trailhead marker for the “Pontoons Wilderness and Historic Interpretive Route” straight ahead (and the trailhead marker for the Prettyjohn’s Trail route to your left).
From the trailhead sign, continue walking north. You are now en route to the Pontoons! It’s little wonder most people have difficulty finding this route or are completely ignorant as to its existence. In the current day, the trailhead isn’t exactly easy to find unless you already know where it is.
Difficulty in locating the trail aside, what makes this route a “must do” when visiting Haida Gwaii? In brief, you’ll want to hike this wild and remote route because it’s an immersive experience.
The full Pontoons trail is approximately 9 kilometres one way. Along the route, you get to experience settler and natural history; Haida culture; envelop yourself in outstanding examples of old-growth Sitka Spruce, Western Hemlock, Red Cedar, and Riparian forest; and, of course, explore the unique fen and marsh complex that makes up the Pontoons.
Because the Pontoons hike is so rich, we will divide it into three manageable “chunks.” Two of the three “chunks” can be completed individually, as separate hikes in their own right: 1) The North Road; 2) Durant Homestead; and, 3) The Pontoons Meadow.
The North Road Trail
Walking the North Road Trail on foggy days makes it a magical and must-repeat experience (Oct 2022)
Once you reach the Pontoons trailhead marker noted above, you’ll officially be on the North Road which, as the name suggests, basically runs north for about 4 kilometers before turning west (or LEFT, if you prefer that term) towards the Pontoons Meadow.
This section of the hike is an old wagon road developed in 1910 as part of a government strategy to encourage settlement in the area. The land was sold for cheap, but living here wasn’t easy.
Much of the designated farming land was originally muskeg and therefore incredibly low in nutrients. A lot of hard work went into making the land arable; however, because of the challenges faced, most settlers were gone by the early 1930s.
In the early 1900s, this route had a lot of small homestead cabins dotting the road, but most of these were abandoned by the end of the First World War. Unfortunately, not many remains of ye olde pioneering spirit today.
There is, of course, the old wagon road itself and, as you hike, you will see and cross some corduroy bridge structures. Besides that, the only other notable evidence of past settlement along this section of the Pontoons trail is the hand-dug drainage ditches, which run along large segments of the North Road.
While the North Road is pleasant to hike at any time of the year, we’ve found it to be especially magical during autumn. As you walk the moss-covered road, its surface comes to life with all sorts of unique fungi, including chanterelles and honeys. It’s a proverbial mushroom picker’s delight.
And the old road, with its towering trees and dense fog, creates an almost magical, otherworldly environment. Indeed, for us, this segment of the Pontoons is the very definition of forest therapy.
After hiking approximately 3 kilometres, you will come upon an active logging road. It is called “Lawn Hill Road North” and is fairly recent, only having been built in the last 15 years. Prior to its construction, the North Road travelled uninterrupted for just over 4 kilometres. This “break” in the trail represents the second “chunk” of the route: The Durant Homestead.
The Durant Homestead
The rhododendrons in Durant Homestead framed one of the well-built cabins
After crossing the logging road, continue north for approximately 1.5 kilometres towards – you guessed it – the Durant Homestead. While part of the North Road, the Village of Daajing Giids has this segment of the old wagon road listed as a separate trail on its Visitor Centre website. Indeed, while we find this kind of odd, it is nevertheless possible to access the “Durant Homestead Trail” by itself.
Unfortunately, the Visitor Centre is wonderfully vague in this regard: “Access old corduroy road [. . .] from 6.5 k on Lawn Hill Road North.” If driving from Skidegate, drive north for approximately 22 kilometres until you see the crudely written “LAWN NORTH MAIN” sign to your left.
When you turn onto this dirt road, be aware that you’re driving on an active logging road, so take the necessary precautions. The road is in decent enough shape that an SUV could probably drive it, but you might “bottom out” on the steep incline near the beginning of the road.
After the initial hill, though, the road remains relatively flat. Drive along Lawn North for 10 minutes, or approximately 5.3 kilometres (the Village of Daajing Giids says 6.5 kilometres, but this is wrong). At this point, you should see the fancy trailhead marker for the Durant Homestead Trail: A stump with some rocks piled on top of it!
From here, the Durant Homestead is approximately 40 minutes, or 1.5 kilometres, down the North Road. While the first part of this trail is quite miry, the rest of it remains in relatively good shape.
There are some muddy sections; parts of the corduroy road are slippery and loose; and, there is some deadfall requiring you to get down on your knees but, for the most part, the trail is easy to navigate and follow.
As you amble about this route, it’s not difficult to transport oneself to an earlier time, circa 1910, when homesteaders were trying to cultivate and develop this land.
About mid-way through your hike, you’ll come upon a sign: “The Great Fire of the 1840s.” Without a bit of context, this might seem rather queer. 20 years ago, the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS) undertook a project of developing/maintain a number of trails in the Tlell Watershed area.
The purpose was essentially twofold: 1) Create awareness of, and protect and conserve the watershed; and, 2) Provide an opportunity for people to experience this unique wilderness through interpretive hiking trails. Signage like “The Great Fire” was posted at strategic points along TWS trails and was originally meant to be accompanied by a short booklet.
Unfortunately, a lack of funds resulted in nearly zero formal upkeep and a good number of these trails – especially Three Mile Creek, Monique Creek and Old Growth Alley – fell into rapid disuse. While some interpretive signage has survived, most have fallen to the elements.
If you’ve kept a keen eye throughout your hike, chances are you will have noticed a number of burnt trees – these are all a result of the “Great Fire of the 1840s.” The cause of the fire remains unknown, but it burned a massive amount of forest from the upper Tlell all the way to Masset.
You will also see evidence of this fire on other trails in the Tlell area: Prettyjohn’s, Old Growth Alley and the Anvil Trail. After walking about 40 minutes from the Durant trailhead, you’ll come upon a large fallen Sitka spruce tree. If you look beyond it, you’ll see signage for the Pontoons – this represents the third “chunk” of our hike. But more on that in a moment.
If you intend to visit the Durant Homestead, look to the immediate left of the fallen tree. You’ll spy a small wooden bridge – follow it a few minutes to the homestead.
As you can see, these structures are modern and still occasionally used by hunters today. Besides the well-constructed cabin, you’ll also see an old outhouse, garden, sauna, and what appears to be a chicken coup on site.
During spring and early summer, the rhododendron bushes are in bloom and make for an impressive site. Before you leave, be sure to sign the guestbook in the cabin!
The Pontoons Meadow
The crude wooden sign points you to the right direction of the Pontoons Trail
The Pontoons are approximately 3 kilometres, or 1.5 hours, beyond the Durant Homestead. From this point, the old wagon road becomes less evident, but still easy to follow thanks to flagging tape.
After navigating some wet/boggy areas, you will finally reach the Tlell River and Pontoons at the 8.8-kilometre mark. Welcome to the Pontoons Meadow!
The Pontoons, often referred to as the “Heart of the Tlell,” make up the majority of the Tlall Heritage Site/Conservancy. Because it is Haida Gwaii’s only interior wetland ecosystem, numerous moves have been made to protect it, including a failed attempt in the 1980s. In 1996, Survey Creek (a tributary of the Tlell River) and the Pontoons were identified by the Province as “Goal 2 Study Areas” under the Protected Areas Strategy due to their “unique” characteristics.
In 2008, the area was formally protected with the signing of the Haida Gwaii Strategic Land Use Agreement, which stated that protected areas – like the Pontoons – are to be set aside for cultural, spiritual, ecological and recreational purposes. They are also to be maintained for the education and enjoyment of future generations.
After such a lengthy and, at times, challenging hike, the views presented by the Pontoons are a breath of fresh air. Mostly flat and relatively shallow, the Pontoons Meadow is home to a unique wetland environment on Haida Gwaii: Bogs, Fens and Marshes all call this 690-hectare space home. Viewed from above, you can observe all tributaries of the Tlell – less Geikie Creek – converging at the Pontoons.
As a result, the ground is rich in nutrients, contributing to the diverse flora of the area. It is also what attracts the island’s local elk population, introduced in 1929, to the area.
Besides the beautiful natural environment, there’s also a bit of history – or folklore – attached to the Pontoons. Allegedly there was once a & quote “floating barn” on the Pontoons, built for storing hay.
As the story goes, farmers producing cattle allowed their herd to enjoy the grounds in summer; however, because the Pontoons often flood during the winter months, a “floating barn” was created so that, when the Tlell floods its banks, the barn and its cargo of precious hay would simply float up with the swelling river.
The existence of this barn hasn’t been verified, but a structure – possibly the fabled barn – can be found at about the 9.1-kilometre mark.
All in all, the Pontoons Trail is an epic hike on a number of fronts. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can choose to tackle it in one 18-kilometre round-trip swoop, or just walk segments of the route (North Road and Durant).
No matter what you decide, you’ll enjoy old growth and second growth forest; settler history in the form of the wagon road and its associated structures; gain an appreciation of Haida cultural values; and, of course, totally immerse yourself in the beating heart of the Tlell River.
Pretty John’s Trail boast of pristine forest parts
The “Old Wagon Road” trail head
One of the many cordoroy bridges in the muddy parts of the trail
The Great Fire of the 1840s
Some parts have endless moss covering the both sides of the path
The Pretty John’s Meadow which is pointed as the main camping ground by hidden signage
Near the beginnings of Tlell River that leads to the Tlell Falls
PRETTY JOHN’S TRAIL FEATURES · Early Settler history · The Great Fire of 1940s · Tlell Falls
ABOUT
Like many trails on Haida Gwaii, it can be challenging to locate Prettyjohn’s trailhead thanks to the nebulous and sparse literature out there. We shall endeavour to make finding this special trail a little easier:
If travelling north from Skidegate, drive roughly 17 kilometres along Highway 16 until you come upon the intersection to Lawn Hill Road. Turn LEFT onto Lawn Hill Road. Drive down Lawn Hill Road until you cross Lawn Creek Bridge. From here, and directly ahead, you’ll see a rather humorous sign: “Violators will be prostituted.”
This sign indicates private property; however, to your LEFT you’ll see a small yellow signposted to an alder tree: “OLD WAGON ROAD.” This sign signifies the start of your hiking adventure, but it is not the trailhead. Park your vehicle on the side of the road and prepare for your hike!
Begin hiking up this road. At about the 1-kilometre mark, you should see some pink and blue flagging tape to your RIGHT and a small footbridge. This is the start of the North Road and “Pontoons Wilderness Historic Interpretive Route.” If you cross the bridge and walk a few meters, you should also see a trailhead marker for Prettyjohn’s interpretive route to your LEFT.
While this side road is technically the start of the Prettyjohn’s hike, it has fallen into disuse over the last 20 years. Now, the standard practice is to IGNORE the aforementioned pink and blue flagging tape and CONTINUE walking west an additional 500 meters past some dilapidated Vehicles.
After hiking 1.5 kilometres, you will come upon another small footbridge. Cross the bridge and walk up a small hill. You will come upon an intersection in the settler wagon road. While it may be tempting to go left, you’ll actually want to go RIGHT (note the well-worn ATV tracks).
You are now on the Inside Road and on your way to Prettyjohn’s Meadow and the Tlell Falls! Follow the blue arrows for approximately 7.4 kilometres to reach the historic meadow.
“But,” you may be wondering, “why Prettyjohn’s?” Indeed, the name is kind of baffling, but the route is named after William Prettyjohn, one of the first British settlers to build in the area circa 1910.
According to the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS), he was a short, bowlegged man who wore thick glasses. Nevertheless, he exemplified the optimism of early pioneers, working his land on the banks of the upper Tlell River and producing many crops of delicious fresh fruits and vegetables.
He is purported to have walked the 12 miles from his homestead to Skidegate and Daajing Giids to sell his wares and then walk all the way back home almost daily. He was one of the last pioneers to depart the area, leaving in the early 1930s.
Today, the only evidence remaining of Prettyjohn’s homestead is the meadow, which is now promoted as an ideal remote camping spot – a special place to spend the night!
We should note, as an important aside, that there’s some debate about the name “Prettyjohn.” Some, like the Over the Hill Hikers Group and locals in Tlell, have suggested “Prettyjohn” is a misspelling of “Pettyjohn.”
We wouldn’t be surprised if this were the case – it’s happened before with the Pesuta Shipwreck trail. Regardless, it would appear “Prettyjohn” is the name that’s won out since it is recorded as such by the Tlell Watershed Society and Haida Nation. What do you think? 😉
As you hike the old settler road, you will come across signage like “The Inside Road,” “The Great Fire of the 1840s” and “Settlers in the Lawn Hill Area,” amongst a few others. These signs are remnants of the Tlell Watershed Society’s interpretive trails project of the early 2000s.
Back then, the TWS sought to maintain or develop important routes within the Tlell watershed and bring awareness to this rich and diverse ecosystem. One way to do that, they thought, was through wilderness interpretive hikes, of which Prettyjohn’s is one.
Signage was placed at strategic points along the trail and was to be accompanied by short booklets – which were available at Visitor Centres across the Island – to provide an explanation. Unfortunately, a lack of funding prevented regular upkeep and most of the trails fell into disuse.
The first part of this wilderness hike takes you along the Inside Road. This old road was constructed at the beginning of the 20th century by settlers hoping to develop farmland for crops away from the coast.
In order to make access to inland portions of the Tlell easier, they created this loop road: One end begins at Lawn Hill and the other near Miller Creek. The full Inside Road is approximately 15 kilometres in length, but the Prettyjohn’s route only takes you through the first 5 kilometres or so near Lawn Hill.
Today, when you hike the Inside Road/Prettyjohn’s route, not much of the pioneering history remains other than the wagon road, some ditching, corduroy bridges and a few fence posts. Still, the road remains in relatively good shape because it is still used by the hiking community and hunters (with the latter’s ATV tracks being very evident). It’s not difficult to imagine William Prettyjohn walking these roads to sell his fruits and vegetables.
As you make your way ever closer to Prettyjohn’s Meadow, you’ll likely notice many burned and charred trees along the way. These are the result of the “Great Fire” of the 1840s, which burned most of the upper Tlell all the way to Masset.
The cause of this fire is still hotly debated, but its effects can still be seen today, some 180 years after the fact. Indeed, the fire helps explain why the trees in this area of the Tlell are all roughly the same size – they started growing at the same time!
Approximately 30 minutes out from the Meadow, the settler wagon road splits. Pay close attention to where you’re going and be sure to follow the blue arrows! You’ll want to turn WEST to continue along Prettyjohn’s route. If you continued going SOUTH, you’d eventually make your way to Drain Lake and Miller Creek. Indeed, following the marked route on these wilderness routes is essential.
A hiker and his dog did get lost on this very trail in 2018. The ending was a happy one, but he had to spend the night in the bush!
Once you reach the meadow, take a lunch break and enjoy the quiet serenity! If you’ve still got enough energy to visit the majestic Tlell Falls, you must hike approximately 800 meters upstream from the meadow. If water levels are low enough, just follow the Tlell River and you’ll eventually come upon the Falls.
If necessary, you can also get to the Falls by hiking along some steep side hill that someone has flagged with tape. Be advised that this portion of the hike requires waterproof footwear and steady feet.
The Tlell Falls is a sight to see but, if we’re being honest, there are much nicer waterfalls on Haida Gwaii that aren’t quite as work-intensive: The Dover Falls and Blackwater Creek Falls, for example.
Overall, the Prettyjohn’s and Tlell Falls Historic Interpretive Route is a beautiful day hike. You get to observe pioneering history, second & old growth forest, and the idyllic Falls. Who knows, if you’re lucky, you might also encounter some of Haida Gwaii’s resident elk since they do like to visit this part of the Tlell.
Note: We would only recommend doing this hike during the summer months. From late September through late May, heavy rains could make some parts of this trail difficult, if not impossible to pass!
We’re speaking from personal experience here: We hiked the route once in late September – the start of the rainy season – and the trail was muddy and slippery most of the way. Once we arrived at the Meadow, it was so flooded it made any attempt at getting towards the Tlell Falls next impossible.
The Wiggins Road Trail takes you along the Tlell River banks with scenic forest views
The moss covered trees along the river makes it so relaxing (Jan 2021)
The mossy banks of the Tllel River makes it an interesting hike (Jan 2021)
The “official” head trail (May 2021)
Wiggins Road Trail Features Popular fishing access Access to Tlall Conservancy
ABOUT
A note of caution: One should avoid hiking this trail after heavy rainfall. Sometimes the banks of the Tlell River will overflow, flooding sections of the trail and making them virtually impassable.
The Wiggins Road trail is an unmaintained 1.5km out-and-back route that follows the Tlell River south along the river’s bank. While the trail is unmarked, it’s still relatively easy to follow until you begin entering the Tlall Conservancy area. At this point, the rough trail gets harder to make out and, at times, feels more like a trudge through the forest. Still, the hike has its rewards: At numerous points throughout, one can marvel at the Sitka spruce before them, the lush mosses, and the mighty Tlell.
While the trail can be used for a recreational hike, its primary purpose is to provide access to the Tlell River for steelhead fishing. It is not uncommon to see locals along the banks reeling in their catch in late Summer or early Fall. Further to this, the trail does provide numerous side paths to the river for fishing purposes.
From a hiking perspective, Wiggins Road trail can be classified as an easy to moderate hike, depending upon one’s fitness level. Much of the trail is flat, though there are some significant areas of mud, roots and deadfall. In addition, the Wiggins Road trail does provide an opportunity for a much grander adventure:
If you do hike the 1.5km (one-way) from the trailhead, you will eventually connect to the far more popular Anvil Trail, which is a 5km loop trail that takes you on a beautiful Wilderness Interpretive hike.
It should be noted that the Wiggins Road trail does fall on privately held land for much of its length, so those visiting should be respectful of posted signage.
To access this trail, turn onto Wiggins Rd and simply follow the road to its terminus point – a cul-de-sac.
Here you will spy the unmarked trailhead, which leads you down to the Tlell River. NOTE: As you walk down the slight incline at the trailhead, you will see a log fence to your left. You will have to crawl through the fence opening to access the rest of the trail – don’t let this dissuade you!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (return) TIME: Approximately 1 hour TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
St. Mary’s Spring wood carving greets you at the trail head
The very green moss covered escarpments are quite the sights!
Up is the way to go on this trail
The trees can tell you how high you are at
At sunset
A closer look at St. Mary
St. Mary’s Spring Trail Features -The fresh water spring – Escarpment trail
ABOUT
Unlike most places on Haida Gwaii, St. Mary’s Spring Trail is quite young in terms of its history. At the beginning of the 20th century, this area was known as “Duncan’s Well,” named after an early homesteader.
It is said that travellers used to stop and re-hydrate their horses at the small well. Beginning in the early 1920s, however, Annie Richardson took it upon herself to name the spring after one she’d known in England – St. Mary’s. The wooden carving that is most associated with this spot was carved a few decades later.
Time has not been kind to Haida Gwaii’s wooden saint. Now, when you visit St. Mary along Highway 16, she looks a bit tired and weathered. Her cloak is starting to decay and both arms have rotted away.
It’s only time before old St. Mary is returned to the earth from which she sprang. It’s sad but, in a way, is reflective of Haida Gwaii: When poles are carved, or houses made, they’re fresh and vibrant.
They give life; however, with the passage of time they, too, grow tired and eventually return to Mother Earth. Such a cycle is actually pretty beautiful if you think about it.
Despite having seen better days, St. Mary’s Spring is still quite attractive. People will visit, lay gifts at Madonna’s feet and drink from the freshwater well nearby. Signage beside St. Mary suggests that those who “Drink of these waters [. . .] will always return to the islands.” It’s a pleasant contemporary legend, though we would note that it’s “drink at your own risk” because the water is untreated and there’s a written notice stating as such.
You will also notice a trail to the left of St. Mary. This is the “St. Mary Spring escarpment trail,” so it is fairly steep (with an elevation gain of approximately 40 meters at its zenith), and goes towards Lawn Hill. The trail markers are scant and poorly done, but the trail itself is easy to follow. As you climb the escarpment, you will encounter dense forest, thick mosses (home to fairy slippers in Spring), ferns and plenty of deadfalls.
The trail is single-track and narrow. Parts of it are perilously close to the edge and one misstep could result in significant injury. An old blog write-up indicated nice views of Hecate Straight could be had from the trail but, while that might’ve been true at one time, it’s not the case any longer.
Of course, the trail is not the primary attraction; it is the wooden carving. If you visit, we’d suggest posing for a photo beside St. Mary and then admiring the black basalt rock formations across the road.
They hint at some old geologic activity! And, hey, you can also get some nice views of Hecate Strait 😉
Slightly elevated part of the trail with helpful cut logs to help you up
Part of the beach you see at end of trail
The open horizon leading up o the beach
ANDREWS PLACE ROAD TRAIL FEATURES: Beach Access Access to Naikoon Provincial Park
ABOUT
The Andrews Place Road Trail is a short out-and-back route located at the end of, well, Andrews Place Road in Tlell. The trailhead is not formally marked; however, it can be seen adjacent to a hydro pole at the end of the cul-de-sac, next to Sandy House. At just 250 meters in length, it only takes 5 minutes to complete this trail and emerge, first, onto the flat sand dunes and then the pebbly beach below.
Because of its short length, I suspect this trail was created more for functional reasons – beach access – than recreational hiking. As such, proper hiking gear is not required. The path is user-maintained and the terrain is mostly flat; however, there are some roots to watch out for as well as some potentially slippery steps to climb en route to the beach.
For the first three minutes of the hike, you walk through fairly dense salal bushes and young Sitka Spruce. Beautiful green moss carpets areas of the forest floor. Just before reaching a set of stairs, you’ll spy a heavily worn and faded sign pointing “to the beach.” After climbing the stairs, you’ll come upon a beautiful memorial bench that sits at the junction of forest and sand dunes. From here, it’s a short two- minute walk towards the beach.
In late Spring and early Summer, the sand dunes in this area – and throughout Naikoon Provincial Park are rife with life. As you walk, be sure to keep an eye out for delicious wild strawberries! At times, the sweet aroma is enough to envelop the mind!
At high tide the beach in this area is pebbly and rough; however, low tide exposes the smooth, packed sand. Most who visit this area either do so for a refreshing dip in the Pacific Ocean or to walk along the shoreline – technically part of the larger Misty Meadows Loop Trail – toward the mouth of the Tlell River. On a clear day, the expanse of beach and sand dunes can, and do, appear most welcoming.
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