The Wiggins Road Trail takes you along the Tlell River banks with scenic forest views
The moss covered trees along the river makes it so relaxing (Jan 2021)
The mossy banks of the Tllel River makes it an interesting hike (Jan 2021)
The “official” head trail (May 2021)
Wiggins Road Trail Features Popular fishing access Access to Tlall Conservancy
A note of caution: One should avoid hiking this trail after heavy rainfall. Sometimes the banks of the Tlell River will overflow, flooding sections of the trail and making them virtually impassable.
ABOUT
The Wiggins Road trail is an unmaintained 1.5km out-and-back route that follows the Tlell River south along the river’s bank. While the trail is unmarked, it’s still relatively easy to follow until you begin entering the Tlall Conservancy area. At this point, the rough trail gets harder to make out and, at times, feels more like a trudge through the forest. Still, the hike has its rewards: At numerous points throughout, one can marvel at the Sitka spruce before them, the lush mosses, and the mighty Tlell.
While the trail can be used for a recreational hike, its primary purpose is to provide access to the Tlell River for steelhead fishing. It is not uncommon to see locals along the banks reeling in their catch in late Summer or early Fall. Further to this, the trail does provide numerous side paths to the river for fishing purposes.
From a hiking perspective, Wiggins Road trail can be classified as an easy to moderate hike, depending upon one’s fitness level. Much of the trail is flat, though there are some significant areas of mud, roots and deadfall. In addition, the Wiggins Road trail does provide an opportunity for a much grander adventure:
If you do hike the 1.5km (one-way) from the trailhead, you will eventually connect to the far more popular Anvil Trail, which is a 5km loop trail that takes you on a beautiful Wilderness Interpretive hike.
It should be noted that the Wiggins Road trail does fall on privately held land for much of its length, so those visiting should be respectful of posted signage.
To access this trail, turn onto Wiggins Rd and simply follow the road to its terminus point – a cul-de-sac.
Here you will spy the unmarked trailhead, which leads you down to the Tlell River. NOTE: As you walk down the slight incline at the trailhead, you will see a log fence to your left. You will have to crawl through the fence opening to access the rest of the trail – don’t let this dissuade you!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (return) TIME: Approximately 1 hour TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
St. Mary’s Spring wood carving greets you at the trail head
The very green moss covered escarpments are quite the sights!
Up is the way to go on this trail
The trees can tell you how high you are at
At sunset
A closer look at St. Mary
St. Mary’s Spring Trail Features The fresh water spring Escarpment trail
ABOUT
Unlike most places on Haida Gwaii, St. Mary’s Spring Trail is quite young in terms of its history. At the beginning of the 20th century, this area was known as “Duncan’s Well,” named after an early homesteader.
It is said that travellers used to stop and re-hydrate their horses at the small well. Beginning in the early 1920s, however, Annie Richardson took it upon herself to name the spring after one she’d known in England – St. Mary’s. The wooden carving that is most associated with this spot was carved a few decades later.
Time has not been kind to Haida Gwaii’s wooden saint. Now, when you visit St. Mary along Highway 16, she looks a bit tired and weathered. Her cloak is starting to decay and both arms have rotted away.
It’s only time before old St. Mary is returned to the earth from which she sprang. It’s sad but, in a way, is reflective of Haida Gwaii: When poles are carved, or houses made, they’re fresh and vibrant.
They give life; however, with the passage of time they, too, grow tired and eventually return to Mother Earth. Such a cycle is actually pretty beautiful if you think about it.
Despite having seen better days, St. Mary’s Spring is still quite attractive. People will visit, lay gifts at Madonna’s feet and drink from the freshwater well nearby. Signage beside St. Mary suggests that those who “Drink of these waters [. . .] will always return to the islands.” It’s a pleasant contemporary legend, though we would note that it’s “drink at your own risk” because the water is untreated and there’s a written notice stating as such.
You will also notice a trail to the left of St. Mary. This is the “St. Mary Spring escarpment trail,” so it is fairly steep (with an elevation gain of approximately 40 meters at its zenith), and goes towards Lawn Hill. The trail markers are scant and poorly done, but the trail itself is easy to follow. As you climb the escarpment, you will encounter dense forest, thick mosses (home to fairy slippers in Spring), ferns and plenty of deadfalls.
The trail is single-track and narrow. Parts of it are perilously close to the edge and one misstep could result in significant injury. An old blog write-up indicated nice views of Hecate Straight could be had from the trail but, while that might’ve been true at one time, it’s not the case any longer.
Of course, the trail is not the primary attraction; it is the wooden carving. If you visit, we’d suggest posing for a photo beside St. Mary and then admiring the black basalt rock formations across the road.
They hint at some old geologic activity! And, hey, you can also get some nice views of Hecate Strait 😉
The Hydro Pole 97 dunes allows a view of Tow Hill (Mar 2021)
The view of some of the North Beach (March 2021)
The obvious foot path leads you to the dunes then (April 2022)
The impressive dunes a couple years back (March 2021)
HYDRO POLE 97 TRAIL FEATURES Sand dunes Access to North Beach
ABOUT
The Hydro Pole 97 Trail Beach Access is pretty self-explanatory. It is one of many such trails in and around Naikoon Provincial Park that provides beach access; however, this one seems to receive special treatment, at least insofar as being mentioned in a couple of publications: The Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy (2011) and Backroad Mapbooks (available at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre).
While we find this rather curious, it is nevertheless a nice, albeit very short, trail. The trail does not have formal trailhead signage, but it is easy enough to find. As you’re driving along Tow Hill Road, just keep an eye out for Hydro Pole 97. If you’re driving north from Masset, the pole will be on your LEFT. The unmarked trailhead will be obvious and almost immediately beside the hydro pole.
If you wish to access the trail, you’ll have to park along the side of the road. While not formally maintained, this short trail is in good shape. The first part of the route takes you through a mix of young spruce and alder trees before entering the sand dune environment.
Once you hit the sandy dunes, you’ll notice some old fence posts – remnants of an earlier time. Please tread lightly along the dunes as these are very fragile environments home to unique flora.
Because the Hydro Pole 97 trail is so short (approximately 235 meters one-way), it is not used primarily as a hiking trail; rather, as the name implies, people use it more for the easy access it provides to the south beach.
The beach is often windy but, during low tides, you have miles upon miles of compact grey sand at your disposal. Once here, you can relax, and enjoy the sun and roar of the waves; or, you can use this as a jumping-off point to partake in the epic 50km Tl’lellan to Old Massett beach hiking route.
Having visited this short route numerous times, we’ve been impressed with how quickly the landscape changes from year to year. The erosion at the sand dunes has been quite pronounced over the last few years. It is inching ever closer to the tree line!
The “Naikoon Canoe Trail” is very short at just 140 meters one-way. It is also unmarked, but well worth the effort to find. Having seen and witnessed many blank or old Haida Canoes over the last few years, we were both keen and curious to locate this one after having seen it in some tourist photos.
“Where was it?” we pondered. Indeed, we knew the canoe was in Naikoon Provincial Park – and not too far from Tow Hill – because existing pictures made that plainly obvious. We initially thought we’d have to walk west to the end of Agate Beach but, as we discovered during a long day of hiking, that wasn’t necessary.
After hiking the Tow Hill/Blow Hole loop and Four Corners Trail, we began returning to Masset. As we drove past Agate Beach, we spied a small pullout on the right-hand side of the road (if COMING from Masset, the pull-out will be on your left, approximately 450 meters AFTER the road to Yakan Point). There’s enough room here for two vehicles to fit rather snuggly.
Once parked, you’ll see a small ramp and a short trail lined with clam shells. This is the trail to the “Naikoon Canoe.” It’s an easy walk, suitable for all ages, and only takes about two minutes to complete. At the trail’s terminus point, you’ll see a beautiful set-up: A number of pews and an archway, with the ancient Haida Canoe resting behind them.
The space has obviously been established for important celebrations like weddings, and it is picture-perfect! Imagine tying the knot on a clear day: An old Haida Canoe mere feet away and Tow Hill functioning as an epic backdrop. The trickster Raven chuckles in the background or a majestic eagle flying overhead.
The short trail obviously isn’t used for recreational hiking, but it serves an essential functional purpose. And, hey, if you’re not coming here to get married, at least you can take in a stunning photo and some history without travelling too far off the beaten path.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 280 meters (return) TIME: Less than 10 minutes TYPE: Out-and-Back ELEVATION GAIN: None
Pesuta Shipwrek – the trail is a mix of beach walks, river side, and forested parts
The root system on the trail is a good massage to your soles (April 2021)
The Geiki Creek Bridge (April 2021)
The mouth of the Tllel River spilling to the ocean (May 2021)
The shipwreck has been slowly being buried in the beach (Aug 2021)
Pesuta Shipwreck Trail Features Shipwreck East Beach access Sand dunes
ABOUT
When travelling to Haida Gwaii, one will inevitably come across images of the Pesuta Shipwreck: It’s featured in tourist publications, there are beautiful pictures of it on BC Ferries, and countless bloggers have written about it online.
It’s become a symbol of the Islands similar to Balance Rock or the fallen Golden Spruce. Because of that, tourists seek it out and ensure it is part of an itinerary.
What is it about the Pesuta that draws so many? The story/context isn’t all that exciting. Basically, the Pezuta was built as a wood-hulled steam freighter during World War I and, after the war, she was sent to Seattle for “liquidation.”
In 1927, the Pezuta was converted into a 264-foot log barge capable of carrying an impressive 800,000 feet of logs. In December of 1928, the tugboat towing Pezuta struggled against a powerful storm in Hecate Strait; the big barge broke free and ran aground on East Beach, near the mouth of the Tlell River.
After nearly 100 years, just the bow remains to jut out from the sand; however, what’s left is extremely photogenic and eye-catching on a number of levels.
By the way, did you notice what we did there? Pezuta vs. Pesuta? At some point after the ship had run aground, the name got misspelled as “Pesuta” and that’s what ended up sticking. History can be funny at times.
The Pesuta Shipwreck Trail is probably the third-most-popular hiking trail on Haida Gwaii, only behind Tow Hill and the Blowhole. At 6 kilometres one-way (the posted signage at the trailhead says 5 km, but this doesn’t seem right), we’d suggest making this hike a nice day trip so as to truly enjoy the forest, river, beach and remnants of Pesuta.
When we hiked the route, it took about 2 hours and 35 minutes, one-way – and that was moving at a fairly leisurely pace. The trail is good for all skill levels because the route is mostly flat, with very little elevation gain.
To access the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail, simply visit the Tlell River Day Use area adjacent to the Tlell River Bridge. Here, you’ll see a few picnic tables and signage indicating the route. There’s also a pit toilet available.
We should also note that this site represents the start of the multi-day East Beach Trail hiking adventure. One day, when the Pesuta has completely gone back to nature, the “Pesuta Shipwreck Trail” will cease and only the East Beach Trail will remain.
The hike out to Pesuta is pretty straightforward. After passing the pit toilet, the trail splits in two – one path leads down to the river while the other heads up into the forest. Some have suggested taking the “tree portion” one-way and the “beach/river trail back,” but this is not advised because the riverbank near the Day Use area is mostly slippery silt for at least 1.5 kilometres. Trust us when we say it’s not fun to walk on!
Instead, follow the East Beach Trail signage (forest). The first 2 kilometres take you through a beautiful old-growth forest of Sitka Spruce, Cedar and lush, green moss.
During Spring, it is possible to observe Fairy Slippers in the moss. Indeed, this portion of the trail is well-marked and easy to navigate. For most of it, you walk along a ridge high above the Tlell River before briefly moving inland to cross Geikie creek.
We’d only advise using a bit of caution when walking along the ridge because the many tree roots do have the potential to trip you up! After clearing the forest, you spend the remaining 4 kilometres walking alongside the Tlell River until it empties into the Pacific Ocean.
From here, the Pesuta is visible in the distance, just a few hundred meters further up East Beach. On a clear day, this portion of the hike can be quite beautiful, especially as you walk past abandoned cabins and massive sand dunes. At the same time, it’s surprisingly hard on the feet!
Once you reach the Pesuta, it’s not uncommon to spend a fair amount of time here. We visited the wreck for a good hour, examining it and taking photos before making our way back to the trailhead (we lacked the stamina to walk the remaining 80+km up East Beach!).
The wreckage has a ghostly beauty to it: A visual memorial of humankind’s technology pitted against Mother Nature. The ship has sat here for nearly a century, getting beaten by waves and wind, and yet it’s still here – for now.
The little lovely details makes this cabin memorable
Across the back of Remi’s cabin is the Smuggler’s Cove
Well-built Remi’s cabin
Remi’s cabin with the red door
The front of the cabin is a secluded beach cove
Rock formation
Fern young growth forest leads to the beach
Ferns, ferns, ferns!
Some sections require some ropes
The trail also opens to the rocky beach facing Graham Island
The trails skirts around the beach
The Alliford Bay section where the Kwuna Point Trail begins
The trail head has a commemorative tribute
Kwuna Point Trail Features: Remi’s Cabin Private Beach Cove Rocky beach facing Graham Island
ABOUT
Kwuna Point Trail is located on Moresby Island at Alliford Bay. To find it, assuming you’re driving off the Kwuna ferry, turn LEFT onto Kwuna Point Road and drive to the end of the road. You will see a small parking lot and dock – park here.
Like most trails on Haida Gwaii, Kwuna Point does not have formal trailhead signage; however, it is clearly signified by the Stranraer 935 Memorial.
The trail is essentially a loop and takes you around Kwuna Point before exiting back onto Kwuna Point Road, approximately 300 meters from the parking lot. Trail markers are sporadically placed throughout, but the trail is easy enough to follow, so there’s practically no chance of getting disoriented.
Above all else, what we appreciated about this short hike was the varied terrain you pass through: Lush ferns, thick moss, rocky beach and young forest of cedar and Sitka spruce. If you pass through this trail in late May or early June you’ll also get to spy many a lovely fairy slipper. While Kwuna Point Trail is mostly flat, there are a few steep sections – two of which have ropes to assist – so good footwear is recommended.
Not far from the trail’s end point, a short side trail also leads to a small cabin – built by a grandfather for his grandson. This cabin is nestled in a protected beach cove that faces Graham Island. In low tide, the beach is a safe place to do some beach combing. You can enter and visit the cabin (there is a guestbook), but please leave it as you found it.
From the cabin, look across to nearby Smuggler’s Cove! We can imagine this is also a good spot for kayaking, paddle boarding, and with a wet suite swimming in the summertime.
The man-made beach crow’s nest can have a nice vista view
Low tide view of Jungle Beach
Jungle Beach Features Beach access Picnic & Swimming Family-friendly
ABOUT
Located approximately 20 kilometers north of Skidegate, Jungle Beach is a popular swimming destination for locals and tourists alike. Its ease of access – just off the highway – concomitant with the roughly 2 kilometers of sandy beach makes for an appealing day out.
The beach is clearly marked with posted signage, so it’s difficult to miss. Secondary beach parking is indicated by a carved black bear, which has definitely seen better days. In the last ten years, its arms have rotted away and, well, we wouldn’t be surprised if it’s fallen over in the next five. In any event, an outhouse is also available here. Jungle Beach is accessible via a short path.
Primary parking at Jungle Beach is located at the next pullout, just a few feet north of the black bear. Here, you’ll spy a covered shelter – perfect for picnicking – and a “fort” right near the entrance to the beach.
The fort, which has been in place for just over 20 years, is made primarily of driftwood and beach rock and features a unique spiral staircase. Once at its zenith, enjoy great views of the beach and horizon beyond! Many an imaginative child has likened this fort to a ship at sail in the sea!
At low tide, you could seemingly walk for miles along Jungle Beach before hitting the ocean for a cool swim. The beach, with its silky smooth sand, is perfect for a little outdoor therapy: Stroll with a loved one, explore the tidal pools, or take out the croquet balls and enjoy a game with the family! As the day winds down, relax on the beach and listen to the waves lapping at the shore.
But, you may be wondering, why “Jungle Beach”? Apparently, an early owner of the Premier Hotel bestowed the “Jungle Beach” name upon this place. How’d that come about?
The generally accepted story is that each winter, Haida Gwaii’s vicious storms cast such a mass of logs upon the beach’s entrance that it reminded folks of a “jungle.” A more recent theory – and one that sounds far more appealing – is that the dark waters of Jungle Creek and the forest immediately behind Jungle Beach serve as inspiration for the name.
Indeed, if you take a walk in the forest directly across the road from the carved black bear (start of the Drain Lake Trail), you’ll see what we mean!
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: The beach is approximately 2km in length TIME: 40 minutes TYPE: Beach walk ELEVATION GAIN: None
Tarundl Creek passing by the flat meadows (Jan 2023)
Mouth towards Kagan Bay (Jan 2023)
The trail head of the Tarundle Loops
The fern filled forest is part of the trail
The small trail path in the forest
The Flood Plains greet you after the forest parts
Tarundl Creek flood plains
Sunset on the flood plains
Tree along the creek
Tarundle Creek (Low Tide) Jan 2021
Dead falls and moss along the trail
Tarundle Creek calm in low tide
Coming out of the forest back into the Honna Road
The trail sign showing the trail terminates to Honna Road
Tarundl Creek Trail Features Access to the Flood Plains Near Kagan Bay Recreation Site Three Trail loops to explore
ABOUT
Tarundl Creek is part of the bigger Kagan Bay Recreation Site. Located west of Daajing Giids (less than 10 minutes by car), and along the Honna Service road, the Kagan Bay Recreation Site offers a host of activities for all members of the family to enjoy. The site has everything whether you want to go fishing, kayaking, hiking, or camping. Indeed, the rugged recreation area,which has Sleeping Beauty as a backdrop, offers us a reprieve from the hurly-burly of daily life while concomitantly providing an opportunity to better appreciate nature.
As you drive along the Honna Service road, you will come upon the Kagan Bay Day Use Area at about the 2 kilometre mark. The site features a picnic table, fire ring and beach access. At low tide, one could walk quite a distance onto the beach; however, we find it a little too “sinky” for our liking.
For us, the big attraction of the day-use area is the Tarundl Creek Trail. Of the local village trails, this one is by far the easiest – but that’s not to suggest it’s stale by any means. Clocking in at 1.5 kilometres in length, the trail takes you through the lush rainforest and rich floodplain.
In this respect, it allows one to see the unique interplay between forest and ocean and how those two systems depend upon one another. Indeed, it is little wonder higher education societies often use Tarundl as a learning ground in the Fall when salmon are spawning and the bears are gathering nutrients for winter: Gina ‘waadluxan gud ad kwaagid.
That said, the yellow markers along Tarundl Creek Trail can be challenging to find at times. As you start out on the trail, you will follow an old skid road, which will lead onto the floodplain. Once here, keep to the right and you will see the path returning to the forest (of course, at low tide, take some time to explore the plain – it’s lovely).
Once back in the forest, you will see a Y on the trail. We recommend going to the LEFT for a richer and far more rewarding hike; otherwise, if you take the path on the right, your hike will end in short order – less than 10 minutes – and you’ll quickly find yourself back on the Honna Road.
While the Village of Daajing Giids identifies the Tarundl Creek Trail as a loop trail, it is more appropriately described as an out-and-back route because the start and end points are completely different points; however, we suppose you could call this a “loop” if you follow the Honna Road back to the Kagan Bay Day Use Area.
Pebbles and rocks on the beach makes a beach walk interesting
Top view of the beach trail
Mists over calm waters
The other side of the beach trail going towards the “Beach Access”
Kagan Bay Beach Trail Oysters on the shore Camping grounds with fire pits Water activities
ABOUT
Located west of Daajing Giids, and approximately 3 kilometres along the Honna Forest Service road, is the Kagan Bay Beach Trail. The Kagan Bay Beach recreational site offers six user-maintained campsites, all of which face the beach.
Each site features a picnic table and fire ring (perfect for roasting hotdogs or marshmallows!), and there is a single – very basic – outhouse meant to service all 6 sites.
At low tide, it’s not uncommon to see Great Blue Herons on the pebbly beach, or locals harvesting luscious bivalves like oysters and clams. The area is ideal for kayakers and those looking to get out into nature, but not too far into the wild. Right across the beach on any of the campsites, there was a supposed oyster farm that used to operate in the area. It has now since been discontinued, but the chances of anyone finding oysters are not uncommon.
Of interest to hikers and beachcombers, the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy identifies this area as the informal “Kagan Bay Beach Trail.” This rough, unmaintained route basically follows the shoreline and acts primarily as a link to the six campsites.
In that regard, we wouldn’t really call it a recreational trail – it’s more functional – but one could walk beyond the campsites and explore more of the rugged coastal terrain if they so wished. In fact, on a low tide, if you’re feeling really adventurous, it is possible to hike around the point (the official “end” of the Kagan Beach Trail) for another 770 meters and link up to Tarundl.
We should note that the Kagan Bay Recreation Area basically ends at the Kagan Log Sort. When you arrive at this part of the road, you will see a sign indicating the route for “Public Beach Access.” It is not advisable to drive beyond the Sort without a 4×4 vehicle.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE : 2.7 kilometres (return) TIME: 1 hour TYPE: Out and back ELEVATION GAIN: None
The Haydn Turner Beach trail shale rock formation makes for some picturesque terrain
The trail head entrance going into the beach trail
The other side of the beach trail looping back to the camp grounds
One of the many spider trails along the beach
Magical misty day makes the trail mystical
On the beach trail
The other entrance of the trail loop – near the campgrounds
A bit of forest walk
The Crabapple Creek spilling into the sea
Interesting tree roots in the loop
The road towards the camping grounds
HAYDN TURNER BEACH TRAIL Views of Daajing Giids Municipal Cemetery Beach combing
Note: If camping in the area, please respect your surroundings and place garbage in the appropriate receptacle and extinguish all campfires!
ABOUT
The Haydn Turner Beach Trail is located at the end of Oceanview Drive, towards the western end of Daajing Giids. Once at the terminus of Oceanview Drive, you’ll spy Haydn Turner campground signage at the head of a narrow road.
Following this road will bring you into the campground and, at its end, the village cemetery. The beach trail is accessible at a few points here – all of which are clearly denoted with “BEACH TRAIL” markers.
While the trail is designed to be a major feature of Haydn Turner Campground and its guests, this easy stroll along the pebbly beach is typically enjoyed by locals as well. It’s not unusual to see people walking their dogs here.
A mix of course sand and black shale rock, the Haydn Turner Beach Trail packs a varied terrain in its short 1 kilometer. On the one hand, you’re treated to beautiful views of nearby Sleeping Beauty Mountain; on the other hand, Bearskin Bay and Skidegate Inlet beckon and call.
When the tide is low, the sandy beach is visible; however, we would not advise walking down here because the sand is very “sinky” and could get you in some trouble rather quickly. Instead, if you must venture beyond the rocky shore, do so on a kayak as this place represents a popular jumping-off point for those keen to get onto the water.
Haydn Turner, as a campground, features 8 sheltered RV sites and 2 walk-in tent sites, the latter of which hug the pebbly shores. Picnic tables, fire pits, and a couple of pit toilets are also available. We should note that the campsite basically sits at the doorstep of Daajing Giids cemetery while the beach trail loops around it (with a couple of small “spider trails” hugging the woods).
Some may find this unsettling while still others might find a sense of peace and calm – especially if you happen to be walking the beach during a misty afternoon.
DIFFICULTY: Easy TOTAL DISTANCE: 1 Kilometer TIME: 20 Minutes TYPE: Loop ELEVATION GAIN: None
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