Hike Haida Gwaii

Tag: hike haida gwaii

  • Just as the Name Says – Around the Pond Trail

    Just as the Name Says – Around the Pond Trail

    • Around the Pond Trail
      The trail can go into these lush moss carpets and ferns
    • Around the Pond Trail
      The fading trail sign showing the name
    • Around the Pond Trail
      The pond along the trail
    • Around the Pond Trail
      The forest walk is therapeutic

    Around the Pond Trail Features:
    Forest therapy
    Connects to Onward Point

    ABOUT

    The “Around the Pond Trail” is easily missed. It isn’t mentioned in any of the sparse trail literature on
    Haida Gwaii (published or online), nor is it mentioned on the popular Backroad Mapbooks. As such,
    people find this trail by accident or learn about it from a helpful local. Where is this fabled trail?

    If you’re coming from the Kwuna ferry terminal, the trailhead is approximately 6 kilometres down
    Alliford Bay Road; if coming from Sandspit, it’s about 3.5 kilometres away. Once you get to the Onward
    Point Trail    head and parking area, simply look across the road towards Hydro Pole 79. There you will see a large diamond-shaped marker. This represents the “Around the Pond” trailhead. If you look closely, you might be able to make out the trail’s name; however, most of it has been completely wiped away on account of being exposed to the elements.

    Fading signage notwithstanding, the actual trail is quite nice. As you begin, the route takes you through
    some dense salal bushes before opening up into a forest dominated by spruce and alders. Here, the
    moss-covered ground takes center stage and almost makes you feel as though you’ve entered another
    world. At about the mid-way point, the trail splits in two: Here, you have the option of going around the
    pond (the trail’s namesake), or doing a “quarry loop.” Both routes eventually link back up with the main
    trail, so it’s more a matter of preference.

    Just before reaching the trail’s end point, you’ll notice more signage pointing towards a cell tower.
    Taking this short route of about two minutes takes you, well, to the tower. From here, you can either
    turn back towards the trail or exit out onto the highway and walk to Onward Point.

    Once you reach the main trail’s terminus point, you will emerge along the highway a few hundred
    meters from where you began. Once here, another option presents itself: 1) You can walk back along
    the road towards Onward Point; or, 2) Cross the road and continue along the trail – which provides
    some nice beach views – until it connects up with the more popular Onward Point Trail system.

    All in all, Around the Pond, represents a nice 20-minute walk through the forest. The route is well-
    marked and, we’d suggest, is family-friendly. During the spring, this area is also ideal for viewing the
    endangered fairy slippers. For the best use of time, we’d recommend doing this trail as part of Onward
    Point.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 1 kilometer
    TIME: 20 minutes
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Old Growth Alley: The “Forgotten” Trail

    Old Growth Alley: The “Forgotten” Trail

    OLD GROWTH ALLEY FEATURES:
    • Riparian forest
    • Old Growth trees
    • Remote wilderness hike

    ABOUT

    The Old Growth Alley Trail is a complex beast. It is both a contradiction and a stinging example of what happens with haphazard, piecemeal funding.

    When the trail was first developed by the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS) in 2004, they said it was “bound to be a new favourite trail for visitors and residents” of Haida Gwaii. Offering a unique window into the riparian forest of the lower Tlell River, the route had much to teach those willing to hike this challenging 9.5km point-to-point trail. Unfortunately, a lack of maintenance led to the trail’s quick decline. Now, in 2022, if you ask locals about the “Old Growth Alley Trail in Tlell,” almost all will shoot you a quizzical look and ask, “Where’s that?”

    The question is fair because, although formal trailhead signage was erected in 2004, these have all been removed; thus, the trail lies hidden in plain sight. Because it is a point-to-point trail, it has two separate entrances, which are approximately 3 kilometres apart. The southern entrance is located along Highway 16, near hydro pole 805. If beginning your hike here, park your vehicle at a small grassy pullout on the “ocean side” of the highway and then walk across the road and northward for a few feet. You’ll eventually spy a small white sign to your left: “DANGER! Do Not Hike During HIGH WINDS.” This sign represents the Old Growth Alley southern trailhead. From here, it is a 3km walk to the Tlell River. The route is very overgrown and takes you through a bog environment. There’s also clear evidence of the Great Fire of the 1840s, but not much else of note.

    For those wishing to access the lower Tlell River and experience the old growth “alley” in a more expedient way and manner, then the northern entrance is the most convenient. To access this trailhead, turn up the short dirt road indicated by Tlell “Farmers Market” signage and then park your vehicle at the nearby soccer fields, just behind the Tlell Fire Hall. From this point, walk along the far northwest corner of the soccer field until you come upon a dense stand of young spruce trees. If you look closely you’ll spy a weathered, old piece of flagging tape. This represents the northern trailhead of Old Growth Alley.

    From here, push your way through dense salal bushes and walk through second-growth forest for about 20 minutes before coming upon the Tlell River and the start of the old growth “alley.” It is here where the magic and importance of this trail really shines through.

    Once you reach the river, the trail follows the main stem of the lower Tlell for about 6km before exiting at one of the two trailheads. Thankfully, a fair number of the blue arrow markers remain intact and guide you along the route. While this portion of the hike is mostly flat, be prepared for some minor hill climbs, significant blowdown, a couple of stream crossings and potentially slippery logs. As you meander along the tranquil, dark waters of the Tlell, be sure to admire the many “old growth” trees that hug the river bank. Large cedar and sitka spruce dominate this area. These trees, alone, highlight the importance of this route, but the old growth alley is about so much more.

    Think about it. You’re walking the rough trail along the Tlell River. Beautiful old growth trees of Sitka and Cedar surround you, but what else do we see? The effects and importance of riparian wilderness areas in regulating water in the watershed; the importance of large woody debris; unique habitat for a variety of wildlife species; and, of course, the important role we all play in this. These are deeper observations, but they come readily when exploring such an isolated and relatively untouched area.

    We said, above, that Old Growth Alley was a contradiction. It’s a contradiction because it was supposed to be a major trail popular for those seeking a day in the wilderness; however, it just sort of withered away. We also said this trail is a classic example of what happens with piecemeal funding: When it was developed nearly 20 years ago, it was likely still a challenging trail but definitely a lot easier to navigate.

    Now, though, significant overgrowth and lack of maintenance has all but hidden the route – and this is unfortunate exactly because Old Growth Alley offers so much to those of us who hike it.

    DIFFICULTY: Hard
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 9.5km
    TIME: 8 hours
    TYPE: Point-to-point
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Jags Trail at Spirit Lake

    Jags Trail at Spirit Lake

    • Jags Trail
      Start of the Jags Trail is an off side trail in the main Spirit Lake Trail
    • Jags Trail
      The trail goes steeper and steeper…
    • Jags Trail
      Bear Skin Bay at a distance
    • Jags Trail
      Looking over at Skidegate Inlet

    JAGS TRAIL FEATURES
    Viewpoints of Skidegate Inlet
    4 Rope Sections

    Note: The Jags Trail at Spirit Lake is one of a few trails created by Jags Brown. This trail should not be confused with his earlier effort, The K’yuu Aanagung / Spirit Lake Connector Trail, located across from the Haida Heritage Centre.

    ABOUT

    The Jags Trail at Spirit Lake was developed by Jags Brown, proprietor of the always excellent Jags Beanstalk, in 2012. Unfortunately, some 11 years later, the trail is little-known and most hikers walk right on by without even realizing it’s there. I suppose that’s understandable because there is no trailhead marker denoting the route – there’s just some subtle flagging tape off to the side that’s very easy to miss. We hiked the trail, upon Jags’ recommendation, this Spring.

    GETTING TO THE TRAIL

    To locate the Jags Trail, start your hike at the Spirit Lake Trailhead. Hike the Spirit Lake Trail for approximately 710 meters, stopping near the newly installed “Devil’s Club” information sign. Once here, look to your RIGHT. You should see a not-so-obvious path with some faded pink flagging tape around a tree. This signifies the start of the Jags Trail. While the route does not appear long on paper, BRMB recorded it as 2.60 kilometres in length one-way, due in large part to the significant zig-zagging done in navigating the trail.

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    As you begin the trail, heading north from Spirit Lake Trail, it ascends fairly quickly. While no longer maintained, the route is exceptionally well-marked –flagging tape is visible every few feet, so there’s very little chance of going off trail. Use caution, though, as the loose soil and twigs underfoot can make hiking the side hill a challenge.

    After about 20 minutes or so, you will encounter the first of four rope sections, which follow in seriatim. We recommend taking your time here, as the trail is very steep and some of the rope sections require you to navigate large deadfall. There are suitable places to rest after each rope section – great places to stop for a hydration break or admire the large cedars and narrow hemlock trees along the route. 

    Once you’ve tackled the rope sections, it’s just a short hike to the summit and viewpoint. The views of Skidegate Inlet, especially on a clear day, are breathtaking and make the difficult hike well worth the effort! We see there was once a hammock on site as well (similar to the Lookout Trail), but it’s long since been shredded, which is a shame because a cozy rest would’ve felt great after scaling the hill! After admiring the view and catching your breath, simply return the way you came.

    The Jags Trail is rough, steep and unmaintained, so be prepared for difficult conditions. If you manage to make it to the top, though, your efforts will be rewarded. Once you make it back to the Spirit Lake trailhead, why not head on over to Jags Beanstalk for a light bite and a good cup of coffee?

    DIFFICULTY: Hard
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 2.6km (one-way)
    TIME: 3 hours (return)
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: 120 meters

  • Peaceful Stroll up the Sangan River Trail

    Peaceful Stroll up the Sangan River Trail

    • Sangan River Trail
      An interesting dead end at the middle of the Sangan River
    • Sangan River Trail
      Sangan River seemingly flowing towards Tow Hill at a distance
    • Sangan River Trail
      Best to walk the Sangan River trail on low tide
    • Sangan River Trail
      On a clear blue sky, the Sangan River acts like a mirror to the clouds

    Sangan River Trail Features
    Fishing access point
    Cultural significance

    Please note: The Sangan River Trail can only be hiked on a receding or low tide.

    ABOUT

    The Sangan River (SGangan Gandlee) is a culturally significant river for the Haida. For thousands of years, they’ve used it for culture, food gathering, and recreational purposes. The river slowly meanders out of Naikoon Provincial Park spills out into the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, where the ocean and river meet is like a collision of two different, yet highly related worlds. It makes us recall, and reflect upon, an important Haida value: Gina ‘waadluxan gud ad kwaagid – Everything depends on everything else.

    The Sangan River Trail is perhaps better described as a river walk than an actual trail. There is no formal trailhead, nor trail markers denoting the route; however, it is very easy to find and represents a peaceful walk – one that allows you to disconnect from the wired world and re-connect with nature and the elements. To access the Sangan River Trail, drive 10-minutes outside of Masset until you come upon the Sangan River Bridge. Park your vehicle somewhere safely off the road and cross the bridge (the side nearest Limberlost Place). Now simply descend to the banks of the Sangan River. From this point, the trail runs approximately 900 meters before rounding the point to South Beach and connecting to the epic 25-kilometre (one-way) Tl’lellan to Old Massett Trail – an epic beach walk that takes you from Tow Hill into Old Massett, or vice versa.

    From a recreational perspective, the Sangan River Trail represents an easy walk for people of all skill levels because the terrain is flat. Most people, if using it for hiking, tend to connect with South Beach for a more epic and worthwhile adventure; otherwise, the Sangan is primarily used for kayaking and as a world-renowned fishing river: Pink, Coho and Chum Salmon are regularly caught here.

    In many respects, walking the Sangan River Trail reminded me of the larger Misty Meadows beach loop trail. In both instances, you’re walking the banks of famous fishing rivers; both rivers are low, calm and meander for many a mile; and both carry with them a deep cultural significance far greater than any of us could ever explain. At day’s end, though, the Sangan River, much like the Tlell further south, calms the mind and relaxes the soul.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.8km (return)
    TIME: 40 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • A Local Favourite – Miller Beach

    A Local Favourite – Miller Beach

    • Miller Beach
      The clear skies reflected on the tidal pools and wet sands of Miller Beach
    • Miller Beach
      The wet sands act like mirror to the skies
    • Miller Beach
      The top view of the sea kissing the shores of Miller Beach
    • Miller Beach
      DCIM100MEDIADJI_0142.JPG
    • Miller Beach
      The washed up dead ends on the shore of Miller Beach
    • Miller Beach
      Behind these tall trees is the highway access to Miller Beach

    Miller Beach Features:
    Beach access
    Swimming

    ABOUT

    Located approximately 5 minutes north of Skidegate by car, you’ll find Chinukundl Creek, more popularly known as Miller Creek. Just up from the bridge, you’ll also spy Chinukundl Road. Turning up the road will take you into the informal community known as Miller Creek.

    If you’re wondering where the name “Miller Creek” comes from, the area was named after Mr. Müller, an early settler who had a homestead near the creek prior to 1908. While the area was first called Müller’s Creek, it has morphed and changed with the passage of time to the “Miller Creek” of today. Interestingly, according to Dalzell, Mr. Müller had once thought he found gold at Mayer River, causing him to call it Gold Creek” – a name you still see today.

    Almost directly across from Chinukundl Road, you’ll see the unmarked – but plainly obvious – trail to Miller Beach. The trail is wide enough for ATVs (their tracks readily apparent) and is well-used by locals.

    During Spring and Summer, it is not unusual to see a line of vehicles parked alongside the road and many a patron enjoying this picturesque hidden gem of a beach. At high tide, the beach is mostly pebbles and rock but, come low tide, soft sand is revealed.

    Enjoy a walk along the beach; beachcombing in the small tidal pools; or, a weenie roast and picnic. Hidden in plain sight, Miller Beach is perfect for the whole family.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 200 meters (return)
    TIME: 4 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Susan’s Trail – A Forest Walk

    Susan’s Trail – A Forest Walk

    • The path towards the salal berry bushes
    • Susan's Trail
      The bushes that leads to the mossy forest
    • Susan's Trail
      The trail is evident and maintained somewhat
    • Susan's Trail
      Another moss carpet of the trail’s forest floor
    • Susan's Trail
      The route leading to the local cemetery
    • Susan's Trail
      The other way leads towards Beitush Road, giving way toward the banks of the Tlell River
    • Susan's Trail
      The trail now splits into two paths, one towards cemetery and the other towards the start of Beitush Road
    • Susan's Trail
      The endless moss greenery
    • Susan's Trail
      The “big tree” or “wolf tree” that has been around for a long time.

    Susan’s Trail Features:
    A big wolf tree
    Mossy forest walk
    A route leading to Tlell River

    ABOUT

    We discovered Susan’s Trail quite by chance earlier this year while browsing the Hospital Day-sponsored “Trail Bingo.” The “bingo card” features a number of well-known short trails, including the aforementioned “Susan’s Trail” – the only one on the list we were unfamiliar with. After a bit of detective work, we discovered the trail, in the current day, is recorded on most maps as part of the larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail. Where, then, is Susan’s Trail and why is it important?

    Susan’s Trail is unmarked, but its location is familiar: As you drive in towards the Misty Meadows campsite you will inevitably spy “the big tree” to your left. This marks the start, or trailhead, of Susan’s Trail. You can park your car on the side of the road or drive a couple of hundred meters forward to the campsite and park there before beginning your hike.

    Susan’s Trail was developed by the late Susan Wright and her husband. It is single-track and runs for approximately 720 meters one-way through fairly dense salal early on before transitioning into mossy carpeted forest of a young hemlock. Within the final 70 meters, the trail runs close to Highway 16 and skirts the Tlell Cemetery, so if you’re afraid of ghosts or ghouls you might wish to skip this one 😉 At the trail’s terminus point, you will emerge onto the dirt road that leads to the cemetery.

    From here, you have two options: Turn back and return the way you came OR walk out onto Beitush Road and stroll north along the Tlell River to experience and/or complete the larger Misty Meadows Loop Trail (described at length in another entry).

    The trail, while brief, represents a good bit of local contemporary history. In that respect, it’s a shame the route is now just considered part of the larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.44km (return)
    TIME: 20 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Hiking the Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail

    Hiking the Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail

    • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
      The endless beach at the Misty Meadows Beach Loop trail
    • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
      The “main” camping grounds structures
    • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
      The accessibility friendly section towards the beach
    • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
      Aerial view of the sand dunes on the shorted beach loop trail
    • Misty Meadow Beach Loop Trail
      The Tlell River vista point where you can see the Pesuta Ship Wreck trail on the right, the Misty Meadow Beach Loop trail on the left
    • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
      The trail lets you spy the Pesuta Ship wreck at a distance
    • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
      Sand dunes on the trail
    • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
      View of the trail from the Haida House side of Tlell River

    Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail Features

    Sand dunes
    Beach access
    Proximity to campground

    ABOUT

    Primarily thought of as a campground, Misty Meadows offers a whopping 30 sites for campers. Potable water, picnic tables and pit toilets are also available on-site. From a recreational perspective, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail serves as a nice introduction to the wonders of Naikoon Provincial Park. It offers beach access and some nice hiking. From the main campsite, the beach is literally a 3-minute walk; however, we’d argue the beach is only particularly noteworthy during a very low tide. At other times, the beach in this area is rock and pebbles. For those wishing to hike, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail offers two options: 1) A short beach loop, which clocks in at about 1km round-trip; and, 2) A much longer beach loop, which comes in at around 10.5km round-trip.

    The shorter loop is well marked – just follow the posted signage. It should take about 20 minutes to complete and goes through the forest, sand dunes and beach. Note: There are a couple of side trails at the dunes – one of which takes you to the park boundary and beyond; however, please note that once you hit the boundary (denoted with a small sign), you will be skirting along private property. The dunes in this part of Naikoon are nice, but there are much larger ones further north along the Pesuta and East Beach trails.

    If you’re feeling energetic, though, the longer loop may be for you. Basically, start at the same point as the shorter loop. Once you begin walking north along the beach, DO NOT turn in toward the Misty Meadows campsite; instead, just keep walking north for a good 5 kilometres or so. You will eventually come upon the mouth of the Tlell River and, assuming its low tide, you can actually get fairly close to the Pesuta Shipwreck, which sits on the opposite side of the river. From here, and for another 5 kilometres, the “loop” basically follows the Tlell River inland. Walking this route, you will come across impressive sand dunes and spy remnants of previous settlements. During Spring and early Summer, the dunes are full of wild strawberries while the sandy riverbank is rife with delectable sea asparagus.

    Once you reach the Haida House, you can continue walking along the Tlell via the riverbank or Beitush Road. It is not uncommon to see locals fishing for steelhead, coho and trout along this stretch of the river. The “trail” will eventually have you cross Beitush Road and walk a short way up the dirt road towards Tlell cemetery. A few meters in, you will see the trail, denoted by a pink flagging tape, resume to your right. This single-file, well-maintained stretch runs for about 500 meters and brings you out by one of Misty Meadows’ more notable attractions, lovingly referred to as “the big tree.” From here, simply walk along the paved road back to the Misty Meadows campground.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 10.5 kilometers
    TIME: 2 hours
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: None


  • Rose Spit – First People at the Edge of the World

    Rose Spit – First People at the Edge of the World

    • Rose Spit
      An aerial view of the Dixon Entrance and the Hecate waters
    • Rose Spit
      The eye level view of the edge of Rose Spit
    • Rose Spit
      Tow Hill from the North Beach
    • Rose Spit
      North Beach, facing the Dixon Entrance

    ROSE SPIT FEATURES
      Edge of the World
    Haida Creation Story
    Crab and clam harvesting

    ABOUT

    Located on the northeastern tip of Graham Island, and wholly within Naikoon Provincial Park, Rose Spit is perhaps best described as a long beach walk rather than a trail hike. 

    To begin your North Beach trek towards “the Spit,” walk down the dirt road from the Hiellen Cabins and onto the beach: You are now at the trailhead/start of your epic walk to Rose Spit. 

    At 18 kilometres one-way, a proper walk out to the precipice should be well timed on a falling tide because the last few kilometres do get submerged by the waves on a high tide. Thus, walk only as far as you believe to be reasonable – you are completely at the mercy of the tides here!

    While the hike to Rose Spit is entirely on flat ground, the hard sand and, later, pebbly beach are surprisingly tough on one’s feet! Be sure to wear comfortable footwear, otherwise, the long hike back to Towhill Road and the Hiellen Cabins could be a rather painful affair. Still, the hike is well worth the effort because there’s surprisingly a lot to see.

    As you walk along North Beach, you’ll undoubtedly notice plenty of vehicle traffic. The majority will be trucks and ATVs, but it’s not uncommon to see standard-size vehicles on the beach as well! Most are joyriding – enjoying the endless kilometres of sandy beach – but some are also gathering traditional foods like cockles, razor clams and Dungeness crab. If you’re lucky, one of the locals just might show you how to catch a deceptively speedy razor clam, or offer up a freshly caught crab – true gifts of the sea!

    At about the 5-kilometre mark, you’ll come upon one of this area’s unnatural attractions: The small shipwreck of the Kelly Ruth, which has been here since 1994. Like the larger Pesuta along East Beach, the Kelly Ruth is surprisingly photogenic, offering many unique angles and contrasts with the natural landscape. 

    It is also at this point, if you’ve chosen to drive onto the beach using a small vehicle, that we’d advise you stop and walk the rest of the way to Rose Spit because the compact sand begins to give way to a pebbly beach much more suited to ATVs and 4×4 trucks.

    Approaching the end of Rose Spit, things begin to come into perspective. Turn around and view Tow Hill: It looks so small off in the distance. Now, turn back around and look at the edge of the world. Roughly a kilometre wide at the forest’s edge, Rose Spit narrows to just a few feet before disappearing beneath the waves of the Pacific Ocean. 

    As you stand here at the precipice of Haida Gwaii, you have the wind at your back; Dixon Entrance and North Beach on your left; and, the Hecate Strait and East Beach on your right. The pebbly Spit, wet sand and unique agates rest at your feet. When you’re out here, it’s easy to enjoy the cool sea breeze and rejuvenating wind . . . and then you notice a clam shell at your feet.

    Rose Spit is a place of high cultural significance to the Haida. The area figures prominently in their creation stories. As told in the story “Raven and the First Man,” Raven found himself alone day, flying over Rose Spit. 

    Landing on the beach, Raven noticed “an extraordinary clamshell at his feet, and protruding from it were a number of small creatures.” He coaxed them out of the shell and, even though some were hesitant, “they emerged from the partly open clamshell to become the first Haida.” 

    This important creation story is beautifully captured in Bill Reid’s “Raven and the First Men” carving at the UBC Museum of Anthropology.

    Knowing the Haida Creation Story adds a layer of complexity to one’s Rose Spit experience. For us, it makes this so much more than a beach walk or a place to observe rare plants like Sea Bluebells. 

    It brings into synthesis Haida culture, history, myth and physical geography. Standing at the tip of Rose Spit and looking back toward Tow Hill, we cannot help but come to a stark realization: No matter how imperfect we are, we each have a place in this world and we owe it to ourselves to protect it.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 36 kilometers (return)
    TIME: 12 hours
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Easy Stroll – Spit Walk Trail

    Easy Stroll – Spit Walk Trail

    • Spit Walk Trail
      A bit of washed up dead heads
    • Spit Walk Trail
      Sunny day you can see a longer spit jutting out to sea
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
      Different marine life washed up on the “Sand Spit”
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
      The background – Graham Island
    • Spit Walk Trail
      Most of the Spit Walk Trail is on grass lands
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
      The grass land parts of the trail
    • Spit Walk Trail

    SPIT WALK TRAIL FEATURES:
    Access to Sand Spit
    Running & Biking
    Family-friendly

    ABOUT

    The “Spit Walk Trail” is something of a surprise on at least two fronts. First, we were flabbergasted to learn of this trail’s existence. Despite spending a significant amount of time on Haida Gwaii, we’d never once heard of this trail. It was only after reading a brief write-up from Ocean Sound Kayaking and spying the
    route on a detailed map of Haida Gwaii by BRMB that our veil of ignorance was lifted. Second, the Spit Walk surprised in that it was basically hiding in plain sight.

    On the one hand, it is kind of surprising we didn’t know of this trail given that it’s basically a 5-kilometre loop around the perimeter of Sandspit Airport (BRMB erroneously says 10KM); thus, it’s hardly a brief walk easily missed. 

    On the other hand, we could argue it’s not terribly surprising because, like most trails on Haida Gwaii, no explicit trailhead signage exists. It seems like you just have to “know” about it. Then again, Ocean Sound Kayaking – the only piece of literature we’ve seen on this trail – does say it’s a “locals trail,” indicating those who live here certainly know about it.

    The Spit Walk can be accessed at two major points – along Tacan Road or Beach Road. If you want to do this hike, we’d recommend starting at Beach Road adjacent to Lon Sharp’s “Spirit of Sandspit” (giant salmon) sculpture because there’s parking available at the site of the former government wharf. 

    If you choose to start at Tacan Road, you’ll have a hard time with parking unless you park in the nearby SuperValu lot. So, for the sake of argument, let’s assume you’re starting from the “Spirit of Sandspit.”

    From here, just walk along the perimeter fence of Sandspit Airport (YZP). The trail is wide, flat and clearly visible. It may seem a bit daunting going straight on such flat land for lengths at a time, but there are benches strewn about to allow for some rest. 

    Just note that because this trail is largely exposed to the elements, it is not advisable to hike or jog this route during high winds.

    In addition, if you wish to break up the monotony, there are a few little side paths that provide access to the rocky beach. If you’re visiting at low tide, we’d strongly recommend detouring off the Spit Walk and enjoying the Sand Spit (Sandspit’s namesake). 

    There’s just something peaceful about being able to walk so far out from the mainland and using the ocean’s calm to clear one’s head. Not to mention, “the Spit” is home to some of the best clam-digging on Haida Gwaii! Just make sure, if you do hike out to the actual “Spit,” you do so at a low or receding tide so as not to get caught by the incoming tide. 

    If you exclude an excursion to the beach, the physical landscape of the Spit Walk is largely grassy and flat. Daisies, Buttercups and Yarrow abound. However, given the flatness of the route, it’s easy to see why many a local enjoys running or biking along this loop – makes for some good exercise.

    As you finish this easy walk and emerge onto Tacan Road, the only thing to watch out for is vehicle traffic since this part of the “trail” as you walk along the side of an active road until you loop back to Beach Road. Besides that, there really is nothing to be wary of on the trail except for the odd low-flying aircraft (haha), winds and angry squirrels in the bushes.

    Overall, the Spit Walk is an enjoyable excursion suitable for the whole family. Along with the added benefit of some nice exercise, it affords us the opportunity to explore a little more of Sandspit. All of that said, this trail certainly isn’t for everybody. If you’re an adventure seeker or want to spend time in the forest, the Spit Walk may be a little boring or even one-note. If, however, you want to inhale that fresh sea air, then you’ll enjoy this easy hike!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 5 kilometers
    TIME: 2 hours
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Forest & Canoes – Haida Canoe Trail #2

    Forest & Canoes – Haida Canoe Trail #2

    • Haida Canoe Trail #2
      Haida Canoe Trail #2 – The ancient canoe on this trail
    • Haida Canoe Trail #2
      Ancient canoe
    • Haida Canoe Trail #2
    • Haida Canoe Trail #2
      The rugged road towards the ancient canoe

    HAIDA CANOE TRAIL #2 FEATURES:
    Ancient Haida canoe
    Culturally Modified Trees
    Late 20th century logging

    ABOUT

    This trail technically doesn’t have a name but, because it leads to another ancient Haida Canoe, the tendency has just been to call it “Haida Canoe Trail #2” – an interesting name choice since you actually come upon its trailhead BEFORE the “Haida Canoe Trail” that most everyone visits. 

    How and why do most miss this trail? It isn’t marked, but we will try to spell it out. From Port Clements, the unmarked trailhead is approximately 11.5 kilometres away:

    Drive 10 minutes, or 3.5 kilometres from Port Clements to the Golden Spruce trailhead pullout. The road turns from paved (Bayview Drive) to gravel. Once you hit the gravel Port Man Forest Service Road, please be aware that you’re on active logging roads.

    From the Golden Spruce trailhead pullout, continue driving straight along the Forest Service road for approximately 7.5 kilometres. At this point, you should keep an eye out for an old single-track logging spur road on your LEFT. If you pass the “HAIDA CANOE” sign (Haida Canoe Trail), then you’ve driven too far. The old road essentially represents the trailhead.

    From the old logging road, it is a one-kilometre stroll to the trail’s terminus point. The hike is largely unremarkable – as you pass through a lot of alders and young spruce – though you may encounter the odd grouse strutting about! At one point, you do come to a large fork in the road: Go to your RIGHT.

    After a couple of minutes, you will come to the end of the road. Once here, look to your right. You should see what appears to be a deer trail going up a small incline through some fairly dense salal bushes. This part of the trail is only about 45 meters long and brings you to the reason you hiked this route: An ancient “blank” Haida canoe, carved circa the 1860s.

    In our opinion, this site is far more interesting than the better-known “HAIDA CANOE” trail nearby. It provides a richer experience. As soon as you pass through the salal, you’re met with a cold chill and then you see everything in front of you: A culturally modified tree (CMT) – the stump of a large monumental cedar – greets you, demonstrating where the canoe below came from. To your left, another CMT with a large “test hole” can be seen. Then, down below, is the moss-covered Haida canoe. The early shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern is clearly evident, along with the flattening of the top of the log in preparation for its hollowing out. Maybe it’s the green moss or the stories attached to the site, but this canoe just “grabs” us far more than the other canoe trail.

    We were introduced to this unmarked trail by Dale Lore. He’s the former Mayor of Port Clements and the current owner of Bayview Market. As Mayor, he made a historic move in siding with the Haida Nation over logging disputes on the islands. This was notable because Port Clements is a logging community and Dale himself spent the better part of 20 years building roads for M&B and Weyerhaeuser to extract resources. Now, he offers tours of unique sites along the Port Clements backroads – this Haida canoe site being one of them.

    As Mr. Lore explained to us, this site was “discovered” in the mid-1990s. Logging companies were building the access road to, well, cut down some trees and make a profit. As the road was being built, the loggers stumbled upon this site. There was talk of sneaking the blank canoe out and continuing uninterrupted, but Mr. Lore notified the Haida Nation – advising them that they “need to see this.”

    Subsequently, because logging is not permitted at culturally significant sites, the operation was halted and stopped. Back to that “chill” you feel: There is little doubt this site is full of energy. 

    You feel it the moment you exit the salal. The ancient structures of the past speak to us and share their story. They have much to teach us if only we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen. On the one hand, they highlight all that was lost during the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s; on the other hand, they symbolize just how intelligently the Haida used (and use) the forest.

    While you are visiting this site, or any other culturally significant area on Haida Gwaii, please practice Yahguudang (respect for all beings).

    Note 1: It is possible to drive the old spur logging road, but we would only recommend doing this if you don’t mind getting your vehicle all scratched up from the trees reaching over onto the road.

    Note 2: If you would like to book a tour with Dale Lore, drop by and visit him at Bayview Market or contact him via email: dalelore@gmail.com

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 2 kilometers (return)
    TIME: 40 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: None