ABOUT

The Gray Bay Recreation Site is located within the Kunxalas Conservancy and is a true wilderness beach area. To access Gray Bay, you must travel approximately 25 kilometres from Sandspit: First, along Copper Bay Road; second, along the Copper Bay Mainline; third, along Spur 20; and, finally, Gray Bay Road.

Please note that once you depart the paved Copper Bay Road you will be driving along active logging roads, so proper precautions should be taken. Nevertheless, the drive out to Gray Bay is well worth the effort.

As you drive along the Copper Bay Mainline, you’ll eventually come upon the seasonal Copper Bay village, which is used by the Haida between April and May during the annual sockeye salmon run.

The area features a mix of old and modern cabins, which are inhabited during the all-too-short fishing season. If you happen to visit during this time, the Copper River becomes a proverbial beehive of activity as the Haida gather their traditional food to roast on an open fire, smoke (fish) and prepare gilgii (dried fish).

In many respects, this short period of time highlights, only too clearly, important cultural traditions and demonstrates how they’ve continued to thrive over thousands of years.

After you leave Copper Bay, the logging road gets significantly rougher – lots of deep potholes – and so progress could be slow depending upon the vehicle type. Keep an eye out for posted signage indicating the direction towards Kunxalas and the Gray Bay Recreation Site.

Once you reach the recreation area, you’ll observe there are 20 campsites (available on a first come-first serve basis). All are fairly spacious and offer easy access to Gray Bay beach. Picnic tables, fire pits and outhouses are also available; however, there is no potable water on-site and there is no internet service.

In this respect, Gray Bay, because of its remoteness and limited amenities, allows you a golden opportunity to connect with nature and experience Haida Gwaii at its best. Instead of watching YouTube or texting with friends, get in tune with nature, and enjoy the supernatural forest and its interconnectivity with the nearby Pacific Ocean.

Besides camping, the major attraction at the Gray Bay Recreation area is, obviously, Gray Bay Beach. This crescent-shaped 3km stretch of pebbly beach and compact sand is an absolute delight and is, in our opinion, one of the best beaches on Haida Gwaii.

At low tide, one could seemingly walk for miles along the unique “wavy” gray sand, admire the delicate sea life in nearby tidal pools, beach comb, ride an ATV, kayak or enjoy a nice dip in the ocean. If hiking is more your thing, the 12km (one-way) Cumshewa Head Trail can be found at the south end of Gray Bay. Please note, though, that a lack of maintenance has resulted in this trail becoming very overgrown in recent years.

If nothing else, do observe how Gray Bay is a microcosm of the ancient Haida philosophy that everything is connected to everything else: The ocean, taan (black bear) and forest all depend on one another. And we depend on them. If you have the time, the Secret Cove Trail is just nearby this recreation site.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (one-way)
TIME: Approximately 40 minutes
TYPE: Beach walk
ELEVATION GAIN: None