OLD GROWTH ALLEY FEATURES:
• Riparian forest
• Old Growth trees
• Remote wilderness hike
ABOUT
The Old Growth Alley Trail is a complex beast. It is both a contradiction and a stinging example of what happens with haphazard, piecemeal funding.
When the trail was first developed by the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS) in 2004, they said it was “bound to be a new favourite trail for visitors and residents” of Haida Gwaii. Offering a unique window into the riparian forest of the lower Tlell River, the route had much to teach those willing to hike this challenging 9.5km point-to-point trail. Unfortunately, a lack of maintenance led to the trail’s quick decline. Now, in 2022, if you ask locals about the “Old Growth Alley Trail in Tlell,” almost all will shoot you a quizzical look and ask, “Where’s that?”
The question is fair because, although formal trailhead signage was erected in 2004, these have all been removed; thus, the trail lies hidden in plain sight. Because it is a point-to-point trail, it has two separate entrances, which are approximately 3 kilometres apart. The southern entrance is located along Highway 16, near hydro pole 805. If beginning your hike here, park your vehicle at a small grassy pullout on the “ocean side” of the highway and then walk across the road and northward for a few feet. You’ll eventually spy a small white sign to your left: “DANGER! Do Not Hike During HIGH WINDS.” This sign represents the Old Growth Alley southern trailhead. From here, it is a 3km walk to the Tlell River. The route is very overgrown and takes you through a bog environment. There’s also clear evidence of the Great Fire of the 1840s, but not much else of note.
For those wishing to access the lower Tlell River and experience the old growth “alley” in a more expedient way and manner, then the northern entrance is the most convenient. To access this trailhead, turn up the short dirt road indicated by Tlell “Farmers Market” signage and then park your vehicle at the nearby soccer fields, just behind the Tlell Fire Hall. From this point, walk along the far northwest corner of the soccer field until you come upon a dense stand of young spruce trees. If you look closely you’ll spy a weathered, old piece of flagging tape. This represents the northern trailhead of Old Growth Alley.
From here, push your way through dense salal bushes and walk through second-growth forest for about 20 minutes before coming upon the Tlell River and the start of the old growth “alley.” It is here where the magic and importance of this trail really shines through.
Once you reach the river, the trail follows the main stem of the lower Tlell for about 6km before exiting at one of the two trailheads. Thankfully, a fair number of the blue arrow markers remain intact and guide you along the route. While this portion of the hike is mostly flat, be prepared for some minor hill climbs, significant blowdown, a couple of stream crossings and potentially slippery logs. As you meander along the tranquil, dark waters of the Tlell, be sure to admire the many “old growth” trees that hug the river bank. Large cedar and sitka spruce dominate this area. These trees, alone, highlight the importance of this route, but the old growth alley is about so much more.
Think about it. You’re walking the rough trail along the Tlell River. Beautiful old growth trees of Sitka and Cedar surround you, but what else do we see? The effects and importance of riparian wilderness areas in regulating water in the watershed; the importance of large woody debris; unique habitat for a variety of wildlife species; and, of course, the important role we all play in this. These are deeper observations, but they come readily when exploring such an isolated and relatively untouched area.
We said, above, that Old Growth Alley was a contradiction. It’s a contradiction because it was supposed to be a major trail popular for those seeking a day in the wilderness; however, it just sort of withered away. We also said this trail is a classic example of what happens with piecemeal funding: When it was developed nearly 20 years ago, it was likely still a challenging trail but definitely a lot easier to navigate.
Now, though, significant overgrowth and lack of maintenance has all but hidden the route – and this is unfortunate exactly because Old Growth Alley offers so much to those of us who hike it.
DIFFICULTY: Hard
TOTAL DISTANCE: 9.5km
TIME: 8 hours
TYPE: Point-to-point
ELEVATION GAIN: None