GOLDEN SPRUCE TRAIL FEATURES:
Haida legend
Old growth trees
Access to Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy
ABOUT
The Golden Spruce Trail is located approximately 10 minutes (3.5 km) outside the community of Port Clements and represents a brisk 20-minute roundtrip walk. Up until January 1997, the end of this short well-manicured trail led to a viewpoint whereby you could see and admire Kiidk’yaas, the Golden
Spruce.
The ancient tree, estimated to be about 300 years old, was a massive Sitka spruce known for its rare golden needles. It figured prominently in Haida stories. Unfortunately, in mid-January 1997, the tree was chopped down by the deranged “protester,” Grant Hadwin. His actions sparked international outrage; the tale is powerfully told in John Vaillant’s The Golden Spruce (2005), a must-read and primer for anyone wanting to walk this short trail. Context is essential to understanding and appreciating this sacred place.
I had the privilege of seeing the actual Golden Spruce in June of 1996, a mere 7 months before it was felled. The trail was a bit narrower back then, but still easy to navigate. Seeing and being surrounded by the massive old-growth forest was a fantastic experience, but nothing could compare to seeing Kiidk’yaas in person. Its golden foliage radiated in contrast to its greener relatives and the almost black Yakoun River at its base.
Currently, the Golden Spruce Trail has been widened and is accessible to those with mobility issues. The old-growth forest; the soft and lush moss; monumental trees and decaying nurse logs still maintain and hold their power over those who hike the trail. It is a very serene experience; one heightened even further by the plaques, designed by the late Ben Davidson, placed throughout highlighting the Haida’s spiritual, emotional, and practical attachment to the land.
Once you reach the end of the official trail, you come upon a viewpoint that, up until about 3 years ago, allowed you to view the skeleton of the Golden Spruce. Now, all that remains is a stump, which is difficult to see and identify. In a very real sense, the walk is both beautiful and tragic at the same time.
In death, however, we often find life. After the Golden Spruce fell in 1997, a number of cuttings were taken from the tree in hopes of planting “golden” offspring. One such cutting has indeed survived and is viewable in Port Clements’ Millennium Park. The golden needles shine bright and radiant.
While the official Golden Spruce Trail is only 400 meters one-way, it is possible to walk nearly an additional 2 kilometres along the “unmaintained” portion of the trail (indicated by signage at the end of
the “official” route). In our view, the reason you may wish to hike this route is for the golden opportunity it presents to explore more of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy. The Conservancy has been used by the Haida for at least 10,000 years and is rife with historic, cultural, social, and spiritual meaning – something very evident along this trail.
DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 800 meters (official trail)
TIME: 20 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None