Category: Recreational/ Interpretative

Old Growth Alley: The “Forgotten” Trail

Posted on by Robert Williams

OLD GROWTH ALLEY FEATURES:
• Riparian forest
• Old Growth trees
• Remote wilderness hike

ABOUT

The Old Growth Alley Trail is a complex beast. It is both a contradiction and a stinging example of what happens with haphazard, piecemeal funding.

When the trail was first developed by the Tlell Watershed Society (TWS) in 2004, they said it was “bound to be a new favourite trail for visitors and residents” of Haida Gwaii. Offering a unique window into the riparian forest of the lower Tlell River, the route had much to teach those willing to hike this challenging 9.5km point-to-point trail. Unfortunately, a lack of maintenance led to the trail’s quick decline. Now, in 2022, if you ask locals about the “Old Growth Alley Trail in Tlell,” almost all will shoot you a quizzical look and ask, “Where’s that?”

The question is fair because, although formal trailhead signage was erected in 2004, these have all been removed; thus, the trail lies hidden in plain sight. Because it is a point-to-point trail, it has two separate entrances, which are approximately 3 kilometres apart. The southern entrance is located along Highway 16, near hydro pole 805. If beginning your hike here, park your vehicle at a small grassy pullout on the “ocean side” of the highway and then walk across the road and northward for a few feet. You’ll eventually spy a small white sign to your left: “DANGER! Do Not Hike During HIGH WINDS.” This sign represents the Old Growth Alley southern trailhead. From here, it is a 3km walk to the Tlell River. The route is very overgrown and takes you through a bog environment. There’s also clear evidence of the Great Fire of the 1840s, but not much else of note.

For those wishing to access the lower Tlell River and experience the old growth “alley” in a more expedient way and manner, then the northern entrance is the most convenient. To access this trailhead, turn up the short dirt road indicated by Tlell “Farmers Market” signage and then park your vehicle at the nearby soccer fields, just behind the Tlell Fire Hall. From this point, walk along the far northwest corner of the soccer field until you come upon a dense stand of young spruce trees. If you look closely you’ll spy a weathered, old piece of flagging tape. This represents the northern trailhead of Old Growth Alley.

From here, push your way through dense salal bushes and walk through second-growth forest for about 20 minutes before coming upon the Tlell River and the start of the old growth “alley.” It is here where the magic and importance of this trail really shines through.

Once you reach the river, the trail follows the main stem of the lower Tlell for about 6km before exiting at one of the two trailheads. Thankfully, a fair number of the blue arrow markers remain intact and guide you along the route. While this portion of the hike is mostly flat, be prepared for some minor hill climbs, significant blowdown, a couple of stream crossings and potentially slippery logs. As you meander along the tranquil, dark waters of the Tlell, be sure to admire the many “old growth” trees that hug the river bank. Large cedar and sitka spruce dominate this area. These trees, alone, highlight the importance of this route, but the old growth alley is about so much more.

Think about it. You’re walking the rough trail along the Tlell River. Beautiful old growth trees of Sitka and Cedar surround you, but what else do we see? The effects and importance of riparian wilderness areas in regulating water in the watershed; the importance of large woody debris; unique habitat for a variety of wildlife species; and, of course, the important role we all play in this. These are deeper observations, but they come readily when exploring such an isolated and relatively untouched area.

We said, above, that Old Growth Alley was a contradiction. It’s a contradiction because it was supposed to be a major trail popular for those seeking a day in the wilderness; however, it just sort of withered away. We also said this trail is a classic example of what happens with piecemeal funding: When it was developed nearly 20 years ago, it was likely still a challenging trail but definitely a lot easier to navigate.

Now, though, significant overgrowth and lack of maintenance has all but hidden the route – and this is unfortunate exactly because Old Growth Alley offers so much to those of us who hike it.

DIFFICULTY: Hard
TOTAL DISTANCE: 9.5km
TIME: 8 hours
TYPE: Point-to-point
ELEVATION GAIN: None

Jags Trail at Spirit Lake

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • Jags Trail
    Start of the Jags Trail is an off side trail in the main Spirit Lake Trail
  • Jags Trail
    The trail goes steeper and steeper…
  • Jags Trail
    Bear Skin Bay at a distance
  • Jags Trail
    Looking over at Skidegate Inlet

JAGS TRAIL FEATURES
Viewpoints of Skidegate Inlet
4 Rope Sections

Note: The Jags Trail at Spirit Lake is one of a few trails created by Jags Brown. This trail should not be confused with his earlier effort, The K’yuu Aanagung / Spirit Lake Connector Trail, located across from the Haida Heritage Centre.

ABOUT

The Jags Trail at Spirit Lake was developed by Jags Brown, proprietor of the always excellent Jags Beanstalk, in 2012. Unfortunately, some 11 years later, the trail is little-known and most hikers walk right on by without even realizing it’s there. I suppose that’s understandable because there is no trailhead marker denoting the route – there’s just some subtle flagging tape off to the side that’s very easy to miss. We hiked the trail, upon Jags’ recommendation, this Spring.

GETTING TO THE TRAIL

To locate the Jags Trail, start your hike at the Spirit Lake Trailhead. Hike the Spirit Lake Trail for approximately 710 meters, stopping near the newly installed “Devil’s Club” information sign. Once here, look to your RIGHT. You should see a not-so-obvious path with some faded pink flagging tape around a tree. This signifies the start of the Jags Trail. While the route does not appear long on paper, BRMB recorded it as 2.60 kilometres in length one-way, due in large part to the significant zig-zagging done in navigating the trail.

HIKING THE TRAIL

As you begin the trail, heading north from Spirit Lake Trail, it ascends fairly quickly. While no longer maintained, the route is exceptionally well-marked –flagging tape is visible every few feet, so there’s very little chance of going off trail. Use caution, though, as the loose soil and twigs underfoot can make hiking the side hill a challenge.

After about 20 minutes or so, you will encounter the first of four rope sections, which follow in seriatim. We recommend taking your time here, as the trail is very steep and some of the rope sections require you to navigate large deadfall. There are suitable places to rest after each rope section – great places to stop for a hydration break or admire the large cedars and narrow hemlock trees along the route. 

Once you’ve tackled the rope sections, it’s just a short hike to the summit and viewpoint. The views of Skidegate Inlet, especially on a clear day, are breathtaking and make the difficult hike well worth the effort! We see there was once a hammock on site as well (similar to the Lookout Trail), but it’s long since been shredded, which is a shame because a cozy rest would’ve felt great after scaling the hill! After admiring the view and catching your breath, simply return the way you came.

The Jags Trail is rough, steep and unmaintained, so be prepared for difficult conditions. If you manage to make it to the top, though, your efforts will be rewarded. Once you make it back to the Spirit Lake trailhead, why not head on over to Jags Beanstalk for a light bite and a good cup of coffee?

DIFFICULTY: Hard
TOTAL DISTANCE: 2.6km (one-way)
TIME: 3 hours (return)
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: 120 meters

Peaceful Stroll up the Sangan River Trail

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • Sangan River Trail
    An interesting dead end at the middle of the Sangan River
  • Sangan River Trail
    Sangan River seemingly flowing towards Tow Hill at a distance
  • Sangan River Trail
    Best to walk the Sangan River trail on low tide
  • Sangan River Trail
    On a clear blue sky, the Sangan River acts like a mirror to the clouds

Sangan River Trail Features
·       Fishing access point
·       Cultural significance

Please note: The Sangan River Trail can only be hiked on a receding or low tide.

ABOUT

The Sangan River (SGangan Gandlee) is a culturally significant river for the Haida. For thousands of years, they’ve used it for culture, food gathering, and recreational purposes. The river slowly meanders out of Naikoon Provincial Park spills out into the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, where the ocean and river meet is like a collision of two different, yet highly related worlds. It makes us recall, and reflect upon, an important Haida value: Gina ‘waadluxan gud ad kwaagid – Everything depends on everything else.

The Sangan River Trail is perhaps better described as a river walk than an actual trail. There is no formal trailhead, nor trail markers denoting the route; however, it is very easy to find and represents a peaceful walk – one that allows you to disconnect from the wired world and re-connect with nature and the elements. To access the Sangan River Trail, drive 10-minutes outside of Masset until you come upon the Sangan River Bridge. Park your vehicle somewhere safely off the road and cross the bridge (the side nearest Limberlost Place). Now simply descend to the banks of the Sangan River. From this point, the trail runs approximately 900 meters before rounding the point to South Beach and connecting to the epic 25-kilometre (one-way) Tl’lellan to Old Massett Trail – an epic beach walk that takes you from Tow Hill into Old Massett, or vice versa.

From a recreational perspective, the Sangan River Trail represents an easy walk for people of all skill levels because the terrain is flat. Most people, if using it for hiking, tend to connect with South Beach for a more epic and worthwhile adventure; otherwise, the Sangan is primarily used for kayaking and as a world-renowned fishing river: Pink, Coho and Chum Salmon are regularly caught here.

In many respects, walking the Sangan River Trail reminded me of the larger Misty Meadows beach loop trail. In both instances, you’re walking the banks of famous fishing rivers; both rivers are low, calm and meander for many a mile; and both carry with them a deep cultural significance far greater than any of us could ever explain. At day’s end, though, the Sangan River, much like the Tlell further south, calms the mind and relaxes the soul.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.8km (return)
TIME: 40 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

A Local Favourite – Miller Beach

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • Miller Beach
    The clear skies reflected on the tidal pools and wet sands of Miller Beach
  • Miller Beach
    The wet sands act like mirror to the skies
  • Miller Beach
    The top view of the sea kissing the shores of Miller Beach
  • Miller Beach
    DCIM100MEDIADJI_0142.JPG
  • Miller Beach
    The washed up dead ends on the shore of Miller Beach
  • Miller Beach
    Behind these tall trees is the highway access to Miller Beach

Miller Beach Features:
Beach access
Swimming

ABOUT

Located approximately 5 minutes north of Skidegate by car, you’ll find Chinukundl Creek, more popularly known as Miller Creek. Just up from the bridge, you’ll also spy Chinukundl Road. Turning up the road will take you into the informal community known as Miller Creek.

If you’re wondering where the name “Miller Creek” comes from, the area was named after Mr. Müller, an early settler who had a homestead near the creek prior to 1908. While the area was first called Müller’s Creek, it has morphed and changed with the passage of time to the “Miller Creek” of today. Interestingly, according to Dalzell, Mr. Müller had once thought he found gold at Mayer River, causing him to call it Gold Creek” – a name you still see today.


Almost directly across from Chinukundl Road, you’ll see the unmarked – but plainly obvious – trail to Miller Beach. The trail is wide enough for ATVs (their tracks readily apparent) and is well-used by locals.


During Spring and Summer, it is not unusual to see a line of vehicles parked alongside the road and many a patron enjoying this picturesque hidden gem of a beach. At high tide, the beach is mostly pebbles and rock but, come low tide, soft sand is revealed.

Enjoy a walk along the beach; beachcombing in the small tidal pools; or, a weenie roast and picnic. Hidden in plain sight, Miller Beach is perfect for the whole family.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 200 meters (return)
TIME: 4 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

Susan’s Trail – A Forest Walk

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • The path towards the salal berry bushes
  • Susan's Trail
    The bushes that leads to the mossy forest
  • Susan's Trail
    The trail is evident and maintained somewhat
  • Susan's Trail
    Another moss carpet of the trail’s forest floor
  • Susan's Trail
    The route leading to the local cemetery
  • Susan's Trail
    The other way leads towards Beitush Road, giving way toward the banks of the Tlell River
  • Susan's Trail
    The trail now splits into two paths, one towards cemetery and the other towards the start of Beitush Road
  • Susan's Trail
    The endless moss greenery
  • Susan's Trail
    The “big tree” or “wolf tree” that has been around for a long time.

Susan’s Trail Features:
– A big wolf tree
– Mossy forest walk
– A route leading to Tlell River

ABOUT

We discovered Susan’s Trail quite by chance earlier this year while browsing the Hospital Day-
sponsored “Trail Bingo.” The “bingo card” features a number of well-known short trails, including the
aforementioned “Susan’s Trail” – the only one on the list we were unfamiliar with. After a bit of
detective work, we discovered the trail, in the current day, is recorded on most maps as part of the
larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail. Where, then, is Susan’s Trail and why is it important?

Susan’s Trail is unmarked, but its location is familiar: As you drive in towards the Misty Meadows
campsite you will inevitably spy “the big tree” to your left. This marks the start, or trailhead, of Susan’s
Trail. You can park your car on the side of the road or drive a couple of hundred meters forward to the
campsite and park there before beginning your hike.

Susan’s Trail was developed by the late Susan Wright and her husband. It is single-track and runs for
approximately 720 meters one-way through fairly dense salal early on before transitioning into mossy
carpeted forest of a young hemlock. Within the final 70 meters, the trail runs close to Highway 16 and
skirts the Tlell Cemetery, so if you’re afraid of ghosts or ghouls you might wish to skip this one 😉
At the trail’s terminus point, you will emerge onto the dirt road that leads to the cemetery.

From here, you have two options: Turn back and return the way you came OR walk out onto Beitush Road and stroll north along the Tlell River to experience and/or complete the larger Misty Meadows Loop Trail (described at length in another entry).

The trail, while brief, represents a good bit of local contemporary history. In that respect, it’s a shame
the route is now just considered part of the larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.44km (return)
TIME: 20 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

Hiking the Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
    The endless beach at the Misty Meadows Beach Loop trail
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
    The “main” camping grounds structures
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
    The accessibility friendly section towards the beach
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
    Aerial view of the sand dunes on the shorted beach loop trail
  • Misty Meadow Beach Loop Trail
    The Tlell River vista point where you can see the Pesuta Ship Wreck trail on the right, the Misty Meadow Beach Loop trail on the left
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
    The trail lets you spy the Pesuta Ship wreck at a distance
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
    Sand dunes on the trail
  • Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail
    View of the trail from the Haida House side of Tlell River

Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail Features

Sand dunes
Beach access
Proximity to campground

ABOUT

Primarily thought of as a campground, Misty Meadows offers a whopping 30 sites for campers. Potable water, picnic tables and pit toilets are also available on-site. From a recreational perspective, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail serves as a nice introduction to the wonders of Naikoon Provincial Park. It offers beach access and some nice hiking. From the main campsite, the beach is literally a 3-minute walk; however, we’d argue the beach is only particularly noteworthy during a very low tide. At other times, the beach in this area is rock and pebbles. For those wishing to hike, Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail offers two options: 1) A short beach loop, which clocks in at about 1km round-trip; and, 2) A much longer beach loop, which comes in at around 10.5km round-trip.

The shorter loop is well marked – just follow the posted signage. It should take about 20 minutes to complete and goes through the forest, sand dunes and beach. Note: There are a couple of side trails at the dunes – one of which takes you to the park boundary and beyond; however, please note that once you hit the boundary (denoted with a small sign), you will be skirting along private property. The dunes in this part of Naikoon are nice, but there are much larger ones further north along the Pesuta and East Beach trails.

If you’re feeling energetic, though, the longer loop may be for you. Basically, start at the same point as the shorter loop. Once you begin walking north along the beach, DO NOT turn in toward the Misty Meadows campsite; instead, just keep walking north for a good 5 kilometres or so. You will eventually come upon the mouth of the Tlell River and, assuming its low tide, you can actually get fairly close to the Pesuta Shipwreck, which sits on the opposite side of the river. From here, and for another 5 kilometres, the “loop” basically follows the Tlell River inland. Walking this route, you will come across impressive sand dunes and spy remnants of previous settlements. During Spring and early Summer, the dunes are full of wild strawberries while the sandy riverbank is rife with delectable sea asparagus.

Once you reach the Haida House, you can continue walking along the Tlell via the riverbank or Beitush Road. It is not uncommon to see locals fishing for steelhead, coho and trout along this stretch of the river. The “trail” will eventually have you cross Beitush Road and walk a short way up the dirt road towards Tlell cemetery. A few meters in, you will see the trail, denoted by a pink flagging tape, resume to your right. This single-file, well-maintained stretch runs for about 500 meters and brings you out by one of Misty Meadows’ more notable attractions, lovingly referred to as “the big tree.” From here, simply walk along the paved road back to the Misty Meadows campground.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 10.5 kilometers
TIME: 2 hours
TYPE: Loop
ELEVATION GAIN: None


Easy Stroll – Spit Walk Trail

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • Spit Walk Trail
    A bit of washed up dead heads
  • Spit Walk Trail
    Sunny day you can see a longer spit jutting out to sea
  • Spit Walk Trail
  • Spit Walk Trail
  • Spit Walk Trail
  • Spit Walk Trail
  • Spit Walk Trail
    Different marine life washed up on the “Sand Spit”
  • Spit Walk Trail
  • Spit Walk Trail
    The background – Graham Island
  • Spit Walk Trail
    Most of the Spit Walk Trail is on grass lands
  • Spit Walk Trail
  • Spit Walk Trail
    The grass land parts of the trail
  • Spit Walk Trail

SPIT WALK TRAIL FEATURES:
·       Access to Sand Spit
·       Running & Biking
·       Family-friendly

ABOUT

The “Spit Walk Trail” is something of a surprise on at least two fronts. First, we were flabbergasted to learn of this trail’s existence. Despite spending a significant amount of time on Haida Gwaii, we’d never once heard of this trail. It was only after reading a brief write-up from Ocean Sound 

Kayaking and spying on the route on a detailed map of Haida Gwaii by BRMB that our veil of ignorance was lifted. Second, the Spit Walk was surprising in that it was basically hiding in plain sight.

On the one hand, it is kind of surprising we didn’t know of this trail given that it’s basically a 5-kilometre loop around the perimeter of Sandspit Airport (BRMB erroneously says 10KM); thus, it’s hardly a brief walk easily missed. 

On the other hand, we could argue it’s not terribly surprising because, like most trails on Haida Gwaii, no explicit trailhead signage exists. It seems like you just have to “know” about it. Then again, Ocean Sound Kayaking – the only piece of literature we’ve seen on this trail – does say it’s a “locals trail,” indicating those who live here certainly know about it.

The Spit Walk can be accessed at two major points – along Tacan Road or Beach Road. If you want to do this hike, we’d recommend starting at Beach Road adjacent to Lon Sharp’s “Spirit of Sandspit” (giant salmon) sculpture because there’s parking available at the site of the former government wharf. 

If you choose to start at Tacan Road, you’ll have a hard time with parking unless you park in the nearby SuperValu lot. So, for the sake of argument, let’s assume you’re starting from the “Spirit of Sandspit.”

From here, just walk along the perimeter fence of Sandspit Airport (YZP). The trail is wide, flat and clearly visible. It may seem a bit daunting going straight on such flat land for lengths at a time, but there are benches strewn about to allow for some rest. 

Just note that because this trail is largely exposed to the elements, it is not advisable to hike or jog this route during high winds.

In addition, if you wish to break up the monotony, there are a few little side paths that provide access to the rocky beach. If you’re visiting at low tide, we’d strongly recommend detouring off the Spit Walk and enjoying the Sand Spit (Sandspit’s namesake). 

There’s just something peaceful about being able to walk so far out from the mainland and using the ocean’s calm to clear one’s head. Not to mention, “the Spit” is home to some of the best clam-digging on Haida Gwaii! Just make sure, if you do hike out to the actual “Spit,” you do so at a low or receding tide so as not to get caught by the incoming tide. 

If you exclude an excursion to the beach, the physical landscape of the Spit Walk is largely grassy and flat. Daisies, Buttercups and Yarrow abound. However, given the flatness of the route, it’s easy to see why many a local enjoys running or biking along this loop – makes for some good exercise.

As you finish this easy walk and emerge onto Tacan Road, the only thing to watch out for is vehicle traffic since this part of the “trail” as you walk along the side of an active road until you loop back to Beach Road. Besides that, there really is nothing to be wary of on the trail except for the odd low-flying aircraft (haha), winds and angry squirrels in the bushes.

Overall, the Spit Walk is an enjoyable excursion suitable for the whole family. Along with the added benefit of some nice exercise, it affords us the opportunity to explore a little more of Sandspit. All of that said, this trail certainly isn’t for everybody. If you’re an adventure seeker or want to spend time in the forest, the Spit Walk may be a little boring or even one-note. If, however, you want to inhale that fresh sea air, then you’ll enjoy this easy hike!

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 5 kilometers
TIME: 2 hours
TYPE: Loop
ELEVATION GAIN: None

Forest & Canoes – Haida Canoe Trail #2

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • Haida Canoe Trail #2
    Haida Canoe Trail #2 – The ancient canoe on this trail
  • Haida Canoe Trail #2
    Ancient canoe
  • Haida Canoe Trail #2
  • Haida Canoe Trail #2
    The rugged road towards the ancient canoe

HAIDA CANOE TRAIL #2 FEATURES:
·       Ancient Haida canoe
·       Culturally Modified Trees
·       Late 20th century logging

ABOUT

This trail technically doesn’t have a name but, because it leads to another ancient Haida Canoe, the tendency has just been to call it “Haida Canoe Trail #2” – an interesting name choice since you actually come upon its trailhead BEFORE the “Haida Canoe Trail” that most everyone visits. 

How and why do most miss this trail? It isn’t marked, but we will try to spell it out. From Port Clements, the unmarked trailhead is approximately 11.5 kilometres away:

Drive 10 minutes, or 3.5 kilometres from Port Clements to the Golden Spruce trailhead pullout. The road turns from paved (Bayview Drive) to gravel. Once you hit the gravel Port Man Forest Service Road, please be aware that you’re on active logging roads.

From the Golden Spruce trailhead pullout, continue driving straight along the Forest Service road for approximately 7.5 kilometres. At this point, you should keep an eye out for an old single-track logging spur road on your LEFT. If you pass the “HAIDA CANOE” sign (Haida Canoe Trail), then you’ve driven too far. The old road essentially represents the trailhead.

From the old logging road, it is a one-kilometre stroll to the trail’s terminus point. The hike is largely unremarkable – as you pass through a lot of alders and young spruce – though you may encounter the odd grouse strutting about! At one point, you do come to a large fork in the road: Go to your RIGHT.

After a couple of minutes, you will come to the end of the road. Once here, look to your right. You should see what appears to be a deer trail going up a small incline through some fairly dense salal bushes. This part of the trail is only about 45 meters long and brings you to the reason you hiked this route: An ancient “blank” Haida canoe, carved circa the 1860s.

In our opinion, this site is far more interesting than the better-known “HAIDA CANOE” trail nearby. It provides a richer experience. As soon as you pass through the salal, you’re met with a cold chill and then you see everything in front of you: A culturally modified tree (CMT) – the stump of a large monumental cedar – greets you, demonstrating where the canoe below came from. To your left, another CMT with a large “test hole” can be seen. Then, down below, is the moss-covered Haida canoe. The early shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern is clearly evident, along with the flattening of the top of the log in preparation for its hollowing out. Maybe it’s the green moss or the stories attached to the site, but this canoe just “grabs” us far more than the other canoe trail.

We were introduced to this unmarked trail by Dale Lore. He’s the former Mayor of Port Clements and the current owner of Bayview Market. As Mayor, he made a historic move in siding with the Haida Nation over logging disputes on the islands. This was notable because Port Clements is a logging community and Dale himself spent the better part of 20 years building roads for M&B and Weyerhaeuser to extract resources. Now, he offers tours of unique sites along the Port Clements backroads – this Haida canoe site being one of them.

As Mr. Lore explained to us, this site was “discovered” in the mid-1990s. Logging companies were building the access road to, well, cut down some trees and make a profit. As the road was being built, the loggers stumbled upon this site. There was talk of sneaking the blank canoe out and continuing uninterrupted, but Mr. Lore notified the Haida Nation – advising them that they “need to see this.”

Subsequently, because logging is not permitted at culturally significant sites, the operation was halted and stopped. Back to that “chill” you feel: There is little doubt this site is full of energy. 

You feel it the moment you exit the salal. The ancient structures of the past speak to us and share their story. They have much to teach us if only we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen. On the one hand, they highlight all that was lost during the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s; on the other hand, they symbolize just how intelligently the Haida used (and use) the forest.

While you are visiting this site, or any other culturally significant area on Haida Gwaii, please practice Yahguudang (respect for all beings).

Note 1: It is possible to drive the old spur logging road, but we would only recommend doing this if you don’t mind getting your vehicle all scratched up from the trees reaching over onto the road.

Note 2: If you would like to book a tour with Dale Lore, drop by and visit him at Bayview Market or contact him via email: dalelore@gmail.com

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 2 kilometers (return)
TIME: 40 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

Ancient Haida Canoe Trail

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • Haida Canoe Trail
    Haida Canoe Trail on end tail of winter
  • Haida Canoe Trail
  • Haida Canoe Trail
  • Haida Canoe Trail

ANCIENT HAIDA CANOE TRAIL FEATURES:
·      160 year-old Haida canoe

ABOUT

Realistically one doesn’t have to travel very far if one wishes to see a Haida canoe while visiting Haida Gwaii. There are a number of beautiful examples at the Haida Heritage Centre, for example, including Bill Reid’s famous “Lootas.” Reid’s “wave eater” was originally carved from a single red cedar for Expo ’86. But what if we desire to see something older, something that harkens back to an earlier time?

It is possible to see a “blank” (unfinished) Haida canoe not far from the community of Port Clements. To get to it, you must hike the aptly named “Haida Canoe Trail.” How do you get to it?

The Haida Canoe Trail is roughly 8km past the Golden Spruce Trail, along the Port Man Forest Service Road. You will notice a large sign that says “HAIDA CANOE” on the left side of the road, at the “Y” before the Port Man turns into the QC Mainline. The sign is impossible to miss and it points you in the direction of the ancient Haida canoe. We would not recommend driving up the old road leading to the trailhead. It is not maintained and is full of deadfall – rather large branches – strewn across sections of the road. Instead, we’d recommend simply parking on the side of the main road and walking towards the trailhead. If you’re worried about traffic getting by your vehicle – don’t be. The Forest Service Road in this area is sufficiently wide for traffic to pass safely.

The Haida Canoe Trail is a brisk 400 meters in length from the signed trailhead, though it’s probably closer to 700 meters if you include the section of old road outside the HAIDA CANOE sign. Regardless, it is an easy hike – less than 10 minutes one-way. Once you reach the “Canoe Trail” signage, the route is single-track but well-maintained. After a little over 5 minutes, the dense forest opens up to the unfinished ancient Haida canoe. This canoe, now surrounded by thick salal bushes, is estimated to be around 150 years old. It’s quite remarkable that, even after all this time, you can still make out the shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern along with the flattening of the top in preparation for its hollowing out via steam.

Beyond being able to view this fantastic artifact in real-time, we appreciate the story it tells. This canoe, and others like it (there are dozens in the forests around Haida Gwaii), is a powerful reminder of all that was lost when the smallpox epidemic hit the Islands in the early 1860s. It’s not hard to imagine the carvers of this canoe succumbing to the disease, resulting in its abandonment in the forest. In the contemporary period, one could also suggest that this canoe and the story behind it help to explain why the residents of Haida Gwaii fought so hard to keep visitors away during the early stages of the COVID pandemic. History can teach us much if we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.4 kilometers (return, to logging road)
TIME: 20 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None

Hidden Treasure – Boulton Lake Trail

Posted on by Robert Williams
  • Boulton Lake Trail
    Boulton Lake Trail aerial view of the whole hidden lake
  • Boulton Lake Trail
    Boulton Lake Trail boggy part
  • Boulton Lake Trail
    In summer, tread on lightly as the tiny sundews are out!

BOULTON LAKE TRAIL FEATURES:
·       Bog environment
·    Water activities

ABOUT

Boulton Lake Trail is located approximately 28 kilometres south of Masset and 14.6 kilometres north of Port Clements, along Highway 16. The trailhead is unmarked but is signified by a small dirt pullout directly across from hydro pole 330. The pullout has enough room for two small vehicles.


After you’ve parked your vehicle, you should be able to see the trailhead through some dense salal bushes. Once you’ve pushed through these, the trail opens up very briefly before becoming overgrown with tall, thick salal bushes again. You’ll be pushing blindly through these for a few moments before entering much shorter stands of salal and a few skinny bog cedars.

While you’ll no longer be blinded by tall salal, the trail remains overgrown, but the path is easy enough to follow. After about two minutes or so, you’ll come upon a very muddy/boggy section that’s often flooded. If you’re not wearing boots, try your best to step on the roots or deadfall to minimize getting wet feet. After you clear this obstacle, you’ll emerge onto the unique bog environment with its thick mosses and stunted trees. The impressive, but shallow, Boulton Lake is just steps away.


Because it only takes five minutes to walk this trail (one-way), it isn’t really used for recreational hiking; rather, the lake is multi-use: People have used Boulton Lake for kayaking and simply relaxing on the water. It’s also occasionally used for research. The Unarmoured Threespine Stickleback is endemic to this lake and has been subject to studies by the Federal Government.


If you’re here exploring the delicate bog environment or admiring the calm waters of Boulton, it can be tricky relocating the trail and finding your way back to the highway. A lot of the stunted trees look the same. Our pro tip? To head back towards the trailhead, line yourself up with the aluminum skiff resting at the edge of Boulton Lake. Walk towards the treeline from here – the boat is perfectly aligned with the unmarked trail.

DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 300 meters (return)
TIME: 10 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None