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Category: Feature Spots
JAGS TRAIL FEATURES
Viewpoints of Skidegate Inlet
4 Rope Sections
Note: The Jags Trail at Spirit Lake is one of a few trails created by Jags Brown. This trail should not be confused with his earlier effort, The K’yuu Aanagung / Spirit Lake Connector Trail, located across from the Haida Heritage Centre.
ABOUT
The Jags Trail at Spirit Lake was developed by Jags Brown, proprietor of the always excellent Jags Beanstalk, in 2012. Unfortunately, some 11 years later, the trail is little-known and most hikers walk right on by without even realizing it’s there. I suppose that’s understandable because there is no trailhead marker denoting the route – there’s just some subtle flagging tape off to the side that’s very easy to miss. We hiked the trail, upon Jags’ recommendation, this Spring.
GETTING TO THE TRAIL
To locate the Jags Trail, start your hike at the Spirit Lake Trailhead. Hike the Spirit Lake Trail for approximately 710 meters, stopping near the newly installed “Devil’s Club” information sign. Once here, look to your RIGHT. You should see a not-so-obvious path with some faded pink flagging tape around a tree. This signifies the start of the Jags Trail. While the route does not appear long on paper, BRMB recorded it as 2.60 kilometres in length one-way, due in large part to the significant zig-zagging done in navigating the trail.
HIKING THE TRAIL
As you begin the trail, heading north from Spirit Lake Trail, it ascends fairly quickly. While no longer maintained, the route is exceptionally well-marked –flagging tape is visible every few feet, so there’s very little chance of going off trail. Use caution, though, as the loose soil and twigs underfoot can make hiking the side hill a challenge.
After about 20 minutes or so, you will encounter the first of four rope sections, which follow in seriatim. We recommend taking your time here, as the trail is very steep and some of the rope sections require you to navigate large deadfall. There are suitable places to rest after each rope section – great places to stop for a hydration break or admire the large cedars and narrow hemlock trees along the route.
Once you’ve tackled the rope sections, it’s just a short hike to the summit and viewpoint. The views of Skidegate Inlet, especially on a clear day, are breathtaking and make the difficult hike well worth the effort! We see there was once a hammock on site as well (similar to the Lookout Trail), but it’s long since been shredded, which is a shame because a cozy rest would’ve felt great after scaling the hill! After admiring the view and catching your breath, simply return the way you came.
The Jags Trail is rough, steep and unmaintained, so be prepared for difficult conditions. If you manage to make it to the top, though, your efforts will be rewarded. Once you make it back to the Spirit Lake trailhead, why not head on over to Jags Beanstalk for a light bite and a good cup of coffee?
DIFFICULTY: Hard
TOTAL DISTANCE: 2.6km (one-way)
TIME: 3 hours (return)
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: 120 meters
The path towards the salal berry bushes 
The bushes that leads to the mossy forest 
The trail is evident and maintained somewhat 
Another moss carpet of the trail’s forest floor 
The route leading to the local cemetery 
The other way leads towards Beitush Road, giving way toward the banks of the Tlell River 
The trail now splits into two paths, one towards cemetery and the other towards the start of Beitush Road 
The endless moss greenery 
The “big tree” or “wolf tree” that has been around for a long time.
Susan’s Trail Features:
– A big wolf tree
– Mossy forest walk
– A route leading to Tlell River
ABOUT
We discovered Susan’s Trail quite by chance earlier this year while browsing the Hospital Day-
sponsored “Trail Bingo.” The “bingo card” features a number of well-known short trails, including the
aforementioned “Susan’s Trail” – the only one on the list we were unfamiliar with. After a bit of
detective work, we discovered the trail, in the current day, is recorded on most maps as part of the
larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail. Where, then, is Susan’s Trail and why is it important?
Susan’s Trail is unmarked, but its location is familiar: As you drive in towards the Misty Meadows
campsite you will inevitably spy “the big tree” to your left. This marks the start, or trailhead, of Susan’s
Trail. You can park your car on the side of the road or drive a couple of hundred meters forward to the
campsite and park there before beginning your hike.
Susan’s Trail was developed by the late Susan Wright and her husband. It is single-track and runs for
approximately 720 meters one-way through fairly dense salal early on before transitioning into mossy
carpeted forest of a young hemlock. Within the final 70 meters, the trail runs close to Highway 16 and
skirts the Tlell Cemetery, so if you’re afraid of ghosts or ghouls you might wish to skip this one 😉
At the trail’s terminus point, you will emerge onto the dirt road that leads to the cemetery.
From here, you have two options: Turn back and return the way you came OR walk out onto Beitush Road and stroll north along the Tlell River to experience and/or complete the larger Misty Meadows Loop Trail (described at length in another entry).
The trail, while brief, represents a good bit of local contemporary history. In that respect, it’s a shame
the route is now just considered part of the larger Misty Meadows Beach Loop Trail.
DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.44km (return)
TIME: 20 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None
ROSE SPIT FEATURES
· Edge of the World
· Haida Creation Story
· Crab and clam harvesting
ABOUT
Located on the northeastern tip of Graham Island, and wholly within Naikoon Provincial Park, Rose Spit is perhaps best described as a long beach walk rather than a trail hike.
To begin your North Beach trek towards “the Spit,” walk down the dirt road from the Hiellen Cabins and onto the beach: You are now at the trailhead/start of your epic walk to Rose Spit.
At 18 kilometres one-way, a proper walk out to the precipice should be well timed on a falling tide because the last few kilometres do get submerged by the waves on a high tide. Thus, walk only as far as you believe to be reasonable – you are completely at the mercy of the tides here!
While the hike to Rose Spit is entirely on flat ground, the hard sand and, later, pebbly beach are surprisingly tough on one’s feet! Be sure to wear comfortable footwear, otherwise, the long hike back to Towhill Road and the Hiellen Cabins could be a rather painful affair. Still, the hike is well worth the effort because there’s surprisingly a lot to see.
As you walk along North Beach, you’ll undoubtedly notice plenty of vehicle traffic. The majority will be trucks and ATVs, but it’s not uncommon to see standard-size vehicles on the beach as well! Most are joyriding – enjoying the endless kilometres of sandy beach – but some are also gathering traditional foods like cockles, razor clams and Dungeness crab. If you’re lucky, one of the locals just might show you how to catch a deceptively speedy razor clam, or offer up a freshly caught crab – true gifts of the sea!
At about the 5-kilometre mark, you’ll come upon one of this area’s unnatural attractions: The small shipwreck of the Kelly Ruth, which has been here since 1994. Like the larger Pesuta along East Beach, the Kelly Ruth is surprisingly photogenic, offering many unique angles and contrasts with the natural landscape.
It is also at this point, if you’ve chosen to drive onto the beach using a small vehicle, that we’d advise you stop and walk the rest of the way to Rose Spit because the compact sand begins to give way to a pebbly beach much more suited to ATVs and 4×4 trucks.
Approaching the end of Rose Spit, things begin to come into perspective. Turn around and view Tow Hill: It looks so small off in the distance. Now, turn back around and look at the edge of the world. Roughly a kilometre wide at the forest’s edge, Rose Spit narrows to just a few feet before disappearing beneath the waves of the Pacific Ocean.
As you stand here at the precipice of Haida Gwaii, you have the wind at your back; Dixon Entrance and North Beach on your left; and, the Hecate Strait and East Beach on your right. The pebbly Spit, wet sand and unique agates rest at your feet. When you’re out here, it’s easy to enjoy the cool sea breeze and rejuvenating wind . . . and then you notice a clam shell at your feet.
Rose Spit is a place of high cultural significance to the Haida. The area figures prominently in their creation stories. As told in the story “Raven and the First Man,” Raven found himself alone day, flying over Rose Spit.
Landing on the beach, Raven noticed “an extraordinary clamshell at his feet, and protruding from it were a number of small creatures.” He coaxed them out of the shell and, even though some were hesitant, “they emerged from the partly open clamshell to become the first Haida.”
This important creation story is beautifully captured in Bill Reid’s “Raven and the First Men” carving at the UBC Museum of Anthropology.
Knowing the Haida Creation Story adds a layer of complexity to one’s Rose Spit experience. For us, it makes this so much more than a beach walk or a place to observe rare plants like Sea Bluebells.
It brings into synthesis Haida culture, history, myth and physical geography. Standing at the tip of Rose Spit and looking back toward Tow Hill, we cannot help but come to a stark realization: No matter how imperfect we are, we each have a place in this world and we owe it to ourselves to protect it.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
TOTAL DISTANCE: 36 kilometers (return)
TIME: 12 hours
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None
SPIT WALK TRAIL FEATURES:
· Access to Sand Spit
· Running & Biking
· Family-friendly
ABOUT
The “Spit Walk Trail” is something of a surprise on at least two fronts. First, we were flabbergasted to learn of this trail’s existence. Despite spending a significant amount of time on Haida Gwaii, we’d never once heard of this trail. It was only after reading a brief write-up from Ocean Sound
Kayaking and spying on the route on a detailed map of Haida Gwaii by BRMB that our veil of ignorance was lifted. Second, the Spit Walk was surprising in that it was basically hiding in plain sight.
On the one hand, it is kind of surprising we didn’t know of this trail given that it’s basically a 5-kilometre loop around the perimeter of Sandspit Airport (BRMB erroneously says 10KM); thus, it’s hardly a brief walk easily missed.
On the other hand, we could argue it’s not terribly surprising because, like most trails on Haida Gwaii, no explicit trailhead signage exists. It seems like you just have to “know” about it. Then again, Ocean Sound Kayaking – the only piece of literature we’ve seen on this trail – does say it’s a “locals trail,” indicating those who live here certainly know about it.
The Spit Walk can be accessed at two major points – along Tacan Road or Beach Road. If you want to do this hike, we’d recommend starting at Beach Road adjacent to Lon Sharp’s “Spirit of Sandspit” (giant salmon) sculpture because there’s parking available at the site of the former government wharf.
If you choose to start at Tacan Road, you’ll have a hard time with parking unless you park in the nearby SuperValu lot. So, for the sake of argument, let’s assume you’re starting from the “Spirit of Sandspit.”
From here, just walk along the perimeter fence of Sandspit Airport (YZP). The trail is wide, flat and clearly visible. It may seem a bit daunting going straight on such flat land for lengths at a time, but there are benches strewn about to allow for some rest.
Just note that because this trail is largely exposed to the elements, it is not advisable to hike or jog this route during high winds.
In addition, if you wish to break up the monotony, there are a few little side paths that provide access to the rocky beach. If you’re visiting at low tide, we’d strongly recommend detouring off the Spit Walk and enjoying the Sand Spit (Sandspit’s namesake).
There’s just something peaceful about being able to walk so far out from the mainland and using the ocean’s calm to clear one’s head. Not to mention, “the Spit” is home to some of the best clam-digging on Haida Gwaii! Just make sure, if you do hike out to the actual “Spit,” you do so at a low or receding tide so as not to get caught by the incoming tide.
If you exclude an excursion to the beach, the physical landscape of the Spit Walk is largely grassy and flat. Daisies, Buttercups and Yarrow abound. However, given the flatness of the route, it’s easy to see why many a local enjoys running or biking along this loop – makes for some good exercise.
As you finish this easy walk and emerge onto Tacan Road, the only thing to watch out for is vehicle traffic since this part of the “trail” as you walk along the side of an active road until you loop back to Beach Road. Besides that, there really is nothing to be wary of on the trail except for the odd low-flying aircraft (haha), winds and angry squirrels in the bushes.
Overall, the Spit Walk is an enjoyable excursion suitable for the whole family. Along with the added benefit of some nice exercise, it affords us the opportunity to explore a little more of Sandspit. All of that said, this trail certainly isn’t for everybody. If you’re an adventure seeker or want to spend time in the forest, the Spit Walk may be a little boring or even one-note. If, however, you want to inhale that fresh sea air, then you’ll enjoy this easy hike!
DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 5 kilometers
TIME: 2 hours
TYPE: Loop
ELEVATION GAIN: None
HAIDA CANOE TRAIL #2 FEATURES:
· Ancient Haida canoe
· Culturally Modified Trees
· Late 20th century logging
ABOUT
This trail technically doesn’t have a name but, because it leads to another ancient Haida Canoe, the tendency has just been to call it “Haida Canoe Trail #2” – an interesting name choice since you actually come upon its trailhead BEFORE the “Haida Canoe Trail” that most everyone visits.
How and why do most miss this trail? It isn’t marked, but we will try to spell it out. From Port Clements, the unmarked trailhead is approximately 11.5 kilometres away:
Drive 10 minutes, or 3.5 kilometres from Port Clements to the Golden Spruce trailhead pullout. The road turns from paved (Bayview Drive) to gravel. Once you hit the gravel Port Man Forest Service Road, please be aware that you’re on active logging roads.
From the Golden Spruce trailhead pullout, continue driving straight along the Forest Service road for approximately 7.5 kilometres. At this point, you should keep an eye out for an old single-track logging spur road on your LEFT. If you pass the “HAIDA CANOE” sign (Haida Canoe Trail), then you’ve driven too far. The old road essentially represents the trailhead.
From the old logging road, it is a one-kilometre stroll to the trail’s terminus point. The hike is largely unremarkable – as you pass through a lot of alders and young spruce – though you may encounter the odd grouse strutting about! At one point, you do come to a large fork in the road: Go to your RIGHT.
After a couple of minutes, you will come to the end of the road. Once here, look to your right. You should see what appears to be a deer trail going up a small incline through some fairly dense salal bushes. This part of the trail is only about 45 meters long and brings you to the reason you hiked this route: An ancient “blank” Haida canoe, carved circa the 1860s.
In our opinion, this site is far more interesting than the better-known “HAIDA CANOE” trail nearby. It provides a richer experience. As soon as you pass through the salal, you’re met with a cold chill and then you see everything in front of you: A culturally modified tree (CMT) – the stump of a large monumental cedar – greets you, demonstrating where the canoe below came from. To your left, another CMT with a large “test hole” can be seen. Then, down below, is the moss-covered Haida canoe. The early shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern is clearly evident, along with the flattening of the top of the log in preparation for its hollowing out. Maybe it’s the green moss or the stories attached to the site, but this canoe just “grabs” us far more than the other canoe trail.
We were introduced to this unmarked trail by Dale Lore. He’s the former Mayor of Port Clements and the current owner of Bayview Market. As Mayor, he made a historic move in siding with the Haida Nation over logging disputes on the islands. This was notable because Port Clements is a logging community and Dale himself spent the better part of 20 years building roads for M&B and Weyerhaeuser to extract resources. Now, he offers tours of unique sites along the Port Clements backroads – this Haida canoe site being one of them.
As Mr. Lore explained to us, this site was “discovered” in the mid-1990s. Logging companies were building the access road to, well, cut down some trees and make a profit. As the road was being built, the loggers stumbled upon this site. There was talk of sneaking the blank canoe out and continuing uninterrupted, but Mr. Lore notified the Haida Nation – advising them that they “need to see this.”
Subsequently, because logging is not permitted at culturally significant sites, the operation was halted and stopped. Back to that “chill” you feel: There is little doubt this site is full of energy.
You feel it the moment you exit the salal. The ancient structures of the past speak to us and share their story. They have much to teach us if only we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen. On the one hand, they highlight all that was lost during the smallpox epidemic of the 1860s; on the other hand, they symbolize just how intelligently the Haida used (and use) the forest.
While you are visiting this site, or any other culturally significant area on Haida Gwaii, please practice Yahguudang (respect for all beings).
Note 1: It is possible to drive the old spur logging road, but we would only recommend doing this if you don’t mind getting your vehicle all scratched up from the trees reaching over onto the road.
Note 2: If you would like to book a tour with Dale Lore, drop by and visit him at Bayview Market or contact him via email: dalelore@gmail.com
DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 2 kilometers (return)
TIME: 40 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None
ANCIENT HAIDA CANOE TRAIL FEATURES:
· 160 year-old Haida canoe
ABOUT
Realistically one doesn’t have to travel very far if one wishes to see a Haida canoe while visiting Haida Gwaii. There are a number of beautiful examples at the Haida Heritage Centre, for example, including Bill Reid’s famous “Lootas.” Reid’s “wave eater” was originally carved from a single red cedar for Expo ’86. But what if we desire to see something older, something that harkens back to an earlier time?
It is possible to see a “blank” (unfinished) Haida canoe not far from the community of Port Clements. To get to it, you must hike the aptly named “Haida Canoe Trail.” How do you get to it?
The Haida Canoe Trail is roughly 8km past the Golden Spruce Trail, along the Port Man Forest Service Road. You will notice a large sign that says “HAIDA CANOE” on the left side of the road, at the “Y” before the Port Man turns into the QC Mainline. The sign is impossible to miss and it points you in the direction of the ancient Haida canoe. We would not recommend driving up the old road leading to the trailhead. It is not maintained and is full of deadfall – rather large branches – strewn across sections of the road. Instead, we’d recommend simply parking on the side of the main road and walking towards the trailhead. If you’re worried about traffic getting by your vehicle – don’t be. The Forest Service Road in this area is sufficiently wide for traffic to pass safely.
The Haida Canoe Trail is a brisk 400 meters in length from the signed trailhead, though it’s probably closer to 700 meters if you include the section of old road outside the HAIDA CANOE sign. Regardless, it is an easy hike – less than 10 minutes one-way. Once you reach the “Canoe Trail” signage, the route is single-track but well-maintained. After a little over 5 minutes, the dense forest opens up to the unfinished ancient Haida canoe. This canoe, now surrounded by thick salal bushes, is estimated to be around 150 years old. It’s quite remarkable that, even after all this time, you can still make out the shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern along with the flattening of the top in preparation for its hollowing out via steam.
Beyond being able to view this fantastic artifact in real-time, we appreciate the story it tells. This canoe, and others like it (there are dozens in the forests around Haida Gwaii), is a powerful reminder of all that was lost when the smallpox epidemic hit the Islands in the early 1860s. It’s not hard to imagine the carvers of this canoe succumbing to the disease, resulting in its abandonment in the forest. In the contemporary period, one could also suggest that this canoe and the story behind it help to explain why the residents of Haida Gwaii fought so hard to keep visitors away during the early stages of the COVID pandemic. History can teach us much if we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen.
DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.4 kilometers (return, to logging road)
TIME: 20 minutes
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None
The forest part f the trail boasting some moss blankets 
More moss on the ground and the quiet in the forest 
The trail also has some creek and shallow crossings 
The Windy Bay Sitka Spruce Trail has some not-so-shy grazing wildlife 
The 800 year old Sitka Spruce in all its steadfast glory 
The trail can still be visible in some parts 
Creek crossings 
The trail path to the woods 
One can see the man-made ditches along the old wagon trail
WINDY BAY SITKA SPRUCE TRAIL FEATURES:
· Massive Sitka Spruce
· Old Growth Forest
· Culturally Modified Trees (CMTs)
ABOUT
Unlike all other hikes on our blog, this trail at Hlk’yah GawGa (Windy Bay) is the only one you’ll likely explore with a guide exactly because it’s located within the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. This fact should be viewed as a net positive because your guide will provide important historical and cultural information lacking at most other trails and beaches around Haida Gwaii. As such, while the hike is relatively short, clocking in at approximately 1.2 kilometres, the knowledge you’re gifted along the way is priceless and helps contextualize Haida Gwaii as a whole.
In order to get to Hlk’yah GawGa, you’ll have to book a tour through one of Haida Gwaii’s local touring operators or, if you’ve got the endurance and seafaring knowledge, a multi-day kayak adventure. If booking a tour, we strongly recommend Haida Style Expeditions or Moresby Explorers. Both companies have years of experience under their belts; both focus on local; and both utilize professional, seasoned guides well versed in yahguudang (respect) for this place and this space. “Leaving everywhere I visit cleaner than when I arrived.”
Once you land at Windy Bay, depending on the tide, you will begin your hike either on the eastern side of a very shallow body of water or the western side – the latter of which is where you’ll encounter the Haida Gwaii Watchmen and see the impressive Legacy Pole. For our purposes, let’s assume we’re starting on the eastern side, opposite the Watchmen’s cabin: At this point, the hike commences on a mostly flat, rocky beach that overlooks the Pacific Ocean.
Your guide will take you into the forest towards a not-too-obvious, but the still visible, trail. The route is mostly flat, and the ground is covered with thick moss. After approximately 10 minutes, you’ll come upon a gated deer exclosure, which doesn’t do much now because the fencing is full of large holes. After another 10 minutes of walking through the forest on intermittent boardwalks, you’ll come upon this trail’s star attraction: An absolutely magnificent Sitka Spruce estimated to be 800 to 900 years old.
Chances are you’ll recognize the tree because it’s often used in advertising for Haida Gwaii. There’s a particularly famous photo out there showing a party of 8 struggling to hold hands around the massive base of this beautiful old-growth giant. The Sitka Spruce puts everything into perspective: We are truly small and insignificant in the face of nature.
Once you’re ready to leave the tree, the partial boardwalk trail takes you through lush moss and even more old-growth Sitka Spruce and red cedar trees. As you hike, your guide will likely point out several culturally modified trees (CMTs) along the way. Seeing the CMTs only helps further entrench what we’ve known all along: The Haida have been here for thousands of years.
Please note that you will have to cross Windy Bay Creek at two points: One may result in wet feet as there are no logs to use as a natural bridge; the second crossing, however, does have a suitable log bridge, but it is slippery.
After about 30 to 40 minutes of hiking, you will come upon the Haida Gwaii Watchmen’s cabin, the Legacy Pole and “Looking Around and Blinking House.” Listening to a narrative from one of the Watchmen does much to put the importance of Hlk’yah GawGa into perspective.
Windy Bay was once the site of a major Haida village and, later, a summer fishing village called Hlk’yah Llnagaay (Peregrine Falcon Town). In more contemporary times, it played an essential role in the Athlii Gwaii logging protests of 1985, which led directly to the creation of Gwaii Haanas in 1993. “Looking Around and Blinking House” was built to house the Haida who stood on the line, protecting their land from logging interests at the time.
The nearby Legacy Pole, erected in 2013, was the first monumental pole raised at Gwaii Haanas in 130 years. At a surface level, it celebrates 20 years of co-management by the Haida Nation and the Government of Canada; however, at a more significant level, the pole speaks to the protection Gwaii Haanas enjoys while concomitantly highlighting the role future generations will play. Culture combines with history. The Ancients meet the Moderns.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
TOTAL DISTANCE: 1.2 kilometers
TIME: 40 minutes
TYPE: Point-to-Point
ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal
FOUR CORNERS TRAILS
• Naikoon Provincial Park
• Early Settler history
ABOUT
Four Corners Trail is located immediately east of the Hiellen River Bridge in Naikoon Provincial Park. The route is a settler wagon road, established initially circa 1910, to access parcels of land further inland. To access this trail, begin at the Cape Fife Trailhead and follow that route for approximately 5 minutes.
You will come upon an information board detailing the Cape Fife route. A marker to your left will signify the continuance of the 10 km-long Cape Fife trail. If you look to your RIGHT, you will see an unmarked but obvious trail – this is the beginning of the Four Corners route.
The full length of the Four Corners Trail is approximately 5 kilometres; however, today, only the first 2.5 kilometres or so can be safely hiked. Significant blowdown and overgrowth make walking the full route – eventually connecting with the more popular White Creek Trail and Carr-Whittle routes – hazardous. The first part of the trail, however, makes for a pleasantly short hike.
The old settler wagon road is now fringed with tall trees and thick mosses, giving an almost otherworldly appearance. Some massive cedar trees line the route, their low-hanging branches reminiscent of a scene from Sleepy Hollow! As we hiked the trail, we kept an eye out for previous human habitation.
Unfortunately, besides the old wagon road, the only evidence of previous human development we saw was some old machinery near the start of Four Corners and the old drainage ditches, which were all dug with pick and spade. As you observe these scenes, it’s not difficult to imagine what life might’ve been like in the early 20th century, as settlers attempted to establish roots and carve new routes.
About mid-way along the hike-able portion of the trail, you’ll round a corner and enter an area we’ve dubbed “cedar alley” due to the significant number of large cedar trees that line this section of the route. Keep a close eye on these special trees because a few of them are CMTs – they were “culturally modified” by the Haida hundreds of years ago. It is a powerful reminder that you’re treading on ancient Haida territory.
You will eventually come upon Swan Creek, which is a tributary of the Hiellen River. Of note, in her important book, Queen Charlotte Islands Trail Hikes and Beach Walks (1978), Fern Henderson reported that the bridge over Swan Creek was “very precarious and may not be usable.” 45 years later the man-made bridge is all but gone.
As such, this is the logical end-point of the Four Corners route. We say “logical” because while it is possible to go beyond the creek using a narrow natural log bridge, this is ill-advised for those not steady on their feet!
If you wish to hike this trail, parking is available in the nearby Tow Hill parking lot. It is advisable to bring a compass and/or use an app like BRMB or AllTrails as this is an unmarked/unmaintained route that is quite overgrown.
DIFFICULTY: Moderate
TOTAL DISTANCE: 5km return (hikeable portion)
TIME: 2.5 hours
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: None
Spirit Trail can have some decent log jam along its creeks 
One of the lakes in the trails loops 
The jam logs make way for the water from the lakes 
Beautiful shrubs and big trees dot the sides of the trails 
Spirit Lake Trail boasts of Dogwood flowers in summer 
The main bridges one goes on the trail 
The bridges and walkways on the trail makes it a favourite to locals 
One of the CMT sample along Spirit Lake Trail 
Frozen Spirit Lake Trail 
Aerial shot of the Spirit Lake Trail
SPIRIT LAKE TRAIL FEATURES
· Culturally Modified Trees
· Haida history
· Interpretive hike
ABOUT
Spirit Lake Trail (GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu) is located in Skidegate, just off Highway 16 and behind the George Brown Recreation Centre – clearly marked with a carved Wasco at the trail’s head. A smaller totem also sits close to the trail’s entrance, near the pit toilet.
Popular with tourists and locals alike, this well-maintained easy hike offers the curious a portal through which to view Haida Gwaii’s natural beauty: The carpeted moss floor; the meandering creeks; beautiful cedar and spruce trees; culturally modified trees (CMTs); a plethora of eagles and woodpeckers; wild blueberries and mushrooms; the large Haida Gwaii black bear; and, of course, Spirit Lake itself. Each of these elements complements the overall setting and lends a picture of serenity.
Whether one chooses the longer forest walk or Spirit Lake loop, one cannot help but recognize and acknowledge the inherent spirituality of the trail and its namesake lake. The presence of CMTs and culturally significant plants like Devil’s Club help to reinforce the fact that the Haida have used – and continue to utilize – this area since time immemorial.
In that regard, you know that you share the trail not just with the physical bodies you encounter, but those you do not see as well. The quietness and calm of the lake have much to say if we choose to listen and attune ourselves to its message.
The trail is not physically demanding and allows you to experience some of the best that Haida Gwaii has to offer. Free walking tours by Gaajiiaawa are also available during the summer, providing a fuller picture and appreciation of the trail and its significance. Depending on the route you choose, the total time spent here ranges from 1 to 2 hours.
In 2021 and 2022, GuuhlGa Siiwaay K’yuu underwent trail maintenance and received important Upgrades: The compacted gravel walkway was significantly redone; 20 new boardwalks were installed, replacing aging infrastructure, and recent posts for future interpretive signage were installed. One of the new boardwalks now extends out into the lake, giving hikers better and safer access to this particular body of water.
DIFFICULTY: Easy
TOTAL DISTANCE: 5.3 kilometers
TIME: 1 to 2 hours
TYPE: Out-and-Back
ELEVATION GAIN: 60 meters