Hike Haida Gwaii

Tag: sandspit trails

  • Hiking the High Road – Hatchery Loop Trail

    Hiking the High Road – Hatchery Loop Trail

    • Hatchery Loop Trail
      The trail is a good winter walk on old deactivated logging roads
    • Hatchery Loop Trail
      This view is on the road walk back to the Hatchery building
    • Hatchery Loop Trail
      The trail is marked well with white triangles thank to local trail hero, Remi Gauthier
    • Hatchery Loop Trail
      Some brooks and streams on the trail
    • Hatchery Loop Trail
      Feel lucky to find some “forest arches” along the way

    Hatchery Loop Trail Features
    Connects to numerous trails in area
    Trailblazed by Remi Gauthier
    Old logging road

    ABOUT

    The Hatchery Loop Trail is another route developed by local hero and trail-builder, Remi Gauthier. The trail takes hikers along the “high road,” an old deactivated logging road, and gives the adventure-minded many options for completing the route: You can treat it as a large loop and come back hugging the highway; or, you can use the Hatchery Trail as a “connector” and branch out to other routes, including the Sachs Creek Trail, Around the Pond and Onward Point, amongst others.

    We initially came upon this trail by chance in the summer of 2022. En route to an enjoyable repast at Raincoast Breads, we spied a small white marker on the side of Alliford Bay Road denoting “Fish
    Hatchery Trail.” We observed no safe place to park at the time given the marker was near a soft corner. It wasn’t until the end of 2023, while reading the newly updated Sandspit Community Society’s “Hikes and walks” page, that this trail starts near the Sandspit Salmon Enhancement Society’s hatchery building.

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    The trailhead marker for the Hatchery Loop Trail is fairly understated and is, therefore, somewhat easy to miss if you’re not already looking for it. First, park your vehicle at the hatchery building. As per the Sandspit Community Society, “1 or 2 vehicles can park max” and “Please leave the hatchery accessible to volunteers and helpers.” Once settled, walk back out onto the main highway and trek south (LEFT) for about 80 meters. At this point, you will see an old road to your left with a white rectangle marker on a nearby alder tree. Welcome to the start of the Hatchery Loop Trail!

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    Most of the route follows a deactivated logging road; so, it’s fairly easygoing. It had snowed the night before our planned hike; as a result, much of the road was covered in a thin layer of snow and ice but this did not detract from the experience. Just a few feet in from the trailhead, you will note a series of
    white markers: Some pointing east and others pointing south. Going south will take you along a rough, but short trail to what we’ve called the Sandspit Waterfall. Trekking east will continue taking you along the Fish Hatchery route.

    At about the 200-meter mark, you will see another directional trail marker. It points north (or LEFT) to “Jason’s Mill Rd” and south (or RIGHT) to Sachs Creek. Walking south for about a kilometre will
    eventually connect you to the informal Sachs Creek Trail; however, if you wish to hike the Hatchery Trail, you must trek north along “Jason’s Mill Rd,” also known as the “high road.” From this point, you follow the old road north for just over 3.5 kilometres. The hike is easy – peaceful – and takes you through a variety of forests and trees, though the primary types observed include alder and spruce trees. The hike promised “some views of Skidegate Inlet through the trees,” but we did not observe this at any point because the trees along the road, and on the forest trail, were too dense.

    While the hike is pretty straightforward, we do recommend hiking this route with an app like BRMB. Once you start trekking north from the “Jason’s Mill Rd” marker, there are no further trail markers along
    the route until you’re about ready to re-emerge onto the highway and shoreline. The app will help you stay on the correct road – there are at least four “forks” along the trail that could potentially lead you astray (the last of these is another “connector” towards the Around the Pond/Onward Point network of
    trails).

    According to the map available on the Sandspit Community Society webpage, there are two options for completing the loop trail: A forest hike that hugs the highway or a much easier trek along the shoreline.
    We chose the latter as we were unable to locate any trail markers for the forest route. In any event, as you complete the loop along the shoreline, you will spy at least two “Fish Hatchery” trail signs along the Highway – these take you through the forest, re-connecting to the old road. Regardless of which route you take, you will end up back at the fish hatchery!

    Note: The Hatchery Loop Trail route is outlined on Gaia GPS. You can view the route online by activating “public trails” on the Gaia GPS website. Unfortunately, as of 2024, the “Overlays” function does not appear to include “public trails” in the app version of Gaia GPS anymore.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 7km
    TIME: 2 hours
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: 73 meters

  • Sachs Creek Trail: A Lovely Wilderness Hike

    Sachs Creek Trail: A Lovely Wilderness Hike

    • Sachs Creek Trail
      Some still ponds near Sachs Creek
    • Sachs Creek Trail
      Sachs Creek bend
    • Sachs Creek Trail
      Danger Tree at creek crossing
    • Sachs Creek Trail
      The big boulders and alders lined the old logging road

    Sachs Creek Trail Features
    Fishing spots
    Endemic tree frog sighting

    ABOUT

    Located roughly 1.6 kilometers east of the Moresby ferry waiting area, and just off Highway 16, you will find the informal Sachs Creek Trail. The trail is unmarked and isn’t primarily used as a recreational hiking route; however, it is nevertheless listed in the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy and Backroad Mapbooks (the latter resource is available at the Daajing Giids Visitor Centre). In the early 1980s, Sachs Creek was utilized as part of a UBC project that used tandem V-shaped gabion weirs for improving spawning habitat for pink and chum salmon. In more recent times, the creek has been used with some regularity by university students in environmental studies programs. Today Sachs Creek remains an important salmon-spawning creek. 

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    Because the trail is unmarked, getting to the trailhead can be a little tricky. If you are using the Backroad Mapbooks app, it will tell you to “look for a road branching south off the Highway 8km before Kwuna Point Road.” Ignore this advice. The road it refers to is deactivated and so overgrown that it is unrecognizable as a road. Instead, if coming from the Kwuna ferry, drive approximately 600 meters along Highway 16. Shortly after crossing the Sachs Creek Bridge, you will see a narrow dirt road to your right. If you are driving a truck, it is possible to drive the 1.08 kilometers along this road to the unmarked Sachs Creek Trailhead; however, we recommend parking your vehicle on the wide curb and walking to the trailhead. There is no signage indicating you are on the Sachs Creek Trail. Instead, you will see an old logging road to your left and some alders and ferns to your right that lead down to Sachs Creek. The trail is characterized as a loop – albeit a rough and informal one – so it doesn’t matter which route you take.

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    As of 2024, the area that encompasses the Sachs Creek Trail has become an active logging zone. As such, the tree tape you see along the old road, and in the forest along the creek, is unreliable; it does not denote the hiking route. In fact, the entire Sachs Creek Trail is unmarked. Thus, while 90% of the route follows old logging roads, the remaining 10% that brings you into the forest and along the creek can be challenging to navigate if you don’t know where you’re going. It is easy to get disoriented in the forest. For that reason, we don’t recommend hiking this route unless you are using an app like BRMB, which contains an outline of the informal trail (note its rough heart shape!).

    Hiking along the old roads is a little one-note. If you choose to hike this informal trail, we recommend spending most of your time trekking along Sachs Creek and enjoying the rich flora and fauna of its banks and waters. Rich in nutrients and life, the creek remains important to the area. Depending upon the time of year, you might get lucky and spy schools of salmon swimming up the creek en route to their spawning grounds. Use caution, though, as taan (black bear) frequent the area.

    Note: With the area now an active logging zone, it may not be publicly accessible during working days of the week. As you walk the route, you will undoubtedly see clear evidence of the logging operations underway – many trees bear scars and it’s a sad sight to see.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 3.5 kilometers
    TIME: 2 hours
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: 40 meters

  • Within Reach – Moresby Waterfall Trail

    Within Reach – Moresby Waterfall Trail

    • Moresby Waterfall Trail
      Quick peek of the waterfall
    • Moresby Waterfall Trail
      Looking back from the waterfall area
    • Moresby Waterfall Trail
      The forest hides the waterfall from view when the foliage grows
    • Moresby Waterfall Trail
      A closer look of the waterfall

    Moresby Waterfall Trail Feature:
    Along the highway access
    Less than five minutes hike
    Gorgeous waterfall

    ABOUT

    The Moresby Waterfall Trail first came to our attention a couple of years ago. We were given a map of Moresby-area trails and one of them identified a “waterfall” just off the side of the highway between the BC Ferries waiting area and Sandspit. Eager to explore and find this waterfall, we set out in mid-Autumn 2021.

    Unfortunately, the coordinates were a little off and we just ended up trudging through the bush before calling it a day and photographing Fall foliage in Sandspit as a consolation prize. Fast-forward to the end of 2023.

    LOCATING THE TRAILHEAD

    Haida Gwaii had endured a series of winter storms, which took down several trees. As we drove towards Sandspit, we spied a glimpse of the waterfall from the road! Deciding the hike wouldn’t be long (nothing more than a few minutes), we pulled off to the side of the road and hiked the short trail toward what we’ve called the Moresby Waterfall.

    There are no notable landmarks to help identify where the trailhead is. If you’re not already looking for it, chances are you’ll drive right on by. Once you park safely off the side of the road, you should spy two alder trees behind a group of feisty ferns. One of the trees features a double white diamond marking with some yellow tape attached to the lower diamond. Welcome to the Moresby Waterfall trailhead!

    HIKING THE TRAIL

    Surprisingly, the short trail is denoted with white diamond-shaped markers all the way through, which leads us to believe this route was created by local trailblazer Remi. Follow the white markers the length of the trail towards the waterfall. At about the mid-way point, there is an option to cross a small creek and visit the eastern side of the waterfall; however, because we lacked proper footwear (this was an
    impromptu stop), we opted to stay on the western side of the creek. After walking a mere five minutes, your efforts are rewarded with a beautiful cascading waterfall – up close and personal. Just be sure to use caution when walking the path near the waterfall as it is quite slippery and muddy.

    The trail, while very short, is informal and user-maintained. There is plenty of deadfall to navigate en route to the falls; however, it is nothing major. While here, take a few moments to enjoy the slight rumble of the falls and the comforting silence of the forest that surrounds you. Forest therapy 101!

    Note: The waterfall may not be as prominent during extended periods of drought.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 180 meters (one-way)
    TIME: 10 minutes (return)
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal

  • Just as the Name Says – Around the Pond Trail

    Just as the Name Says – Around the Pond Trail

    • Around the Pond Trail
      The trail can go into these lush moss carpets and ferns
    • Around the Pond Trail
      The fading trail sign showing the name
    • Around the Pond Trail
      The pond along the trail
    • Around the Pond Trail
      The forest walk is therapeutic

    Around the Pond Trail Features:
    Forest therapy
    Connects to Onward Point

    ABOUT

    The “Around the Pond Trail” is easily missed. It isn’t mentioned in any of the sparse trail literature on
    Haida Gwaii (published or online), nor is it mentioned on the popular Backroad Mapbooks. As such,
    people find this trail by accident or learn about it from a helpful local. Where is this fabled trail?

    If you’re coming from the Kwuna ferry terminal, the trailhead is approximately 6 kilometres down
    Alliford Bay Road; if coming from Sandspit, it’s about 3.5 kilometres away. Once you get to the Onward
    Point Trail    head and parking area, simply look across the road towards Hydro Pole 79. There you will see a large diamond-shaped marker. This represents the “Around the Pond” trailhead. If you look closely, you might be able to make out the trail’s name; however, most of it has been completely wiped away on account of being exposed to the elements.

    Fading signage notwithstanding, the actual trail is quite nice. As you begin, the route takes you through
    some dense salal bushes before opening up into a forest dominated by spruce and alders. Here, the
    moss-covered ground takes center stage and almost makes you feel as though you’ve entered another
    world. At about the mid-way point, the trail splits in two: Here, you have the option of going around the
    pond (the trail’s namesake), or doing a “quarry loop.” Both routes eventually link back up with the main
    trail, so it’s more a matter of preference.

    Just before reaching the trail’s end point, you’ll notice more signage pointing towards a cell tower.
    Taking this short route of about two minutes takes you, well, to the tower. From here, you can either
    turn back towards the trail or exit out onto the highway and walk to Onward Point.

    Once you reach the main trail’s terminus point, you will emerge along the highway a few hundred
    meters from where you began. Once here, another option presents itself: 1) You can walk back along
    the road towards Onward Point; or, 2) Cross the road and continue along the trail – which provides
    some nice beach views – until it connects up with the more popular Onward Point Trail system.

    All in all, Around the Pond, represents a nice 20-minute walk through the forest. The route is well-
    marked and, we’d suggest, is family-friendly. During the spring, this area is also ideal for viewing the
    endangered fairy slippers. For the best use of time, we’d recommend doing this trail as part of Onward
    Point.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 1 kilometer
    TIME: 20 minutes
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Easy Stroll – Spit Walk Trail

    Easy Stroll – Spit Walk Trail

    • Spit Walk Trail
      A bit of washed up dead heads
    • Spit Walk Trail
      Sunny day you can see a longer spit jutting out to sea
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
      Different marine life washed up on the “Sand Spit”
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
      The background – Graham Island
    • Spit Walk Trail
      Most of the Spit Walk Trail is on grass lands
    • Spit Walk Trail
    • Spit Walk Trail
      The grass land parts of the trail
    • Spit Walk Trail

    SPIT WALK TRAIL FEATURES:
    Access to Sand Spit
    Running & Biking
    Family-friendly

    ABOUT

    The “Spit Walk Trail” is something of a surprise on at least two fronts. First, we were flabbergasted to learn of this trail’s existence. Despite spending a significant amount of time on Haida Gwaii, we’d never once heard of this trail. It was only after reading a brief write-up from Ocean Sound Kayaking and spying the
    route on a detailed map of Haida Gwaii by BRMB that our veil of ignorance was lifted. Second, the Spit Walk surprised in that it was basically hiding in plain sight.

    On the one hand, it is kind of surprising we didn’t know of this trail given that it’s basically a 5-kilometre loop around the perimeter of Sandspit Airport (BRMB erroneously says 10KM); thus, it’s hardly a brief walk easily missed. 

    On the other hand, we could argue it’s not terribly surprising because, like most trails on Haida Gwaii, no explicit trailhead signage exists. It seems like you just have to “know” about it. Then again, Ocean Sound Kayaking – the only piece of literature we’ve seen on this trail – does say it’s a “locals trail,” indicating those who live here certainly know about it.

    The Spit Walk can be accessed at two major points – along Tacan Road or Beach Road. If you want to do this hike, we’d recommend starting at Beach Road adjacent to Lon Sharp’s “Spirit of Sandspit” (giant salmon) sculpture because there’s parking available at the site of the former government wharf. 

    If you choose to start at Tacan Road, you’ll have a hard time with parking unless you park in the nearby SuperValu lot. So, for the sake of argument, let’s assume you’re starting from the “Spirit of Sandspit.”

    From here, just walk along the perimeter fence of Sandspit Airport (YZP). The trail is wide, flat and clearly visible. It may seem a bit daunting going straight on such flat land for lengths at a time, but there are benches strewn about to allow for some rest. 

    Just note that because this trail is largely exposed to the elements, it is not advisable to hike or jog this route during high winds.

    In addition, if you wish to break up the monotony, there are a few little side paths that provide access to the rocky beach. If you’re visiting at low tide, we’d strongly recommend detouring off the Spit Walk and enjoying the Sand Spit (Sandspit’s namesake). 

    There’s just something peaceful about being able to walk so far out from the mainland and using the ocean’s calm to clear one’s head. Not to mention, “the Spit” is home to some of the best clam-digging on Haida Gwaii! Just make sure, if you do hike out to the actual “Spit,” you do so at a low or receding tide so as not to get caught by the incoming tide. 

    If you exclude an excursion to the beach, the physical landscape of the Spit Walk is largely grassy and flat. Daisies, Buttercups and Yarrow abound. However, given the flatness of the route, it’s easy to see why many a local enjoys running or biking along this loop – makes for some good exercise.

    As you finish this easy walk and emerge onto Tacan Road, the only thing to watch out for is vehicle traffic since this part of the “trail” as you walk along the side of an active road until you loop back to Beach Road. Besides that, there really is nothing to be wary of on the trail except for the odd low-flying aircraft (haha), winds and angry squirrels in the bushes.

    Overall, the Spit Walk is an enjoyable excursion suitable for the whole family. Along with the added benefit of some nice exercise, it affords us the opportunity to explore a little more of Sandspit. All of that said, this trail certainly isn’t for everybody. If you’re an adventure seeker or want to spend time in the forest, the Spit Walk may be a little boring or even one-note. If, however, you want to inhale that fresh sea air, then you’ll enjoy this easy hike!

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 5 kilometers
    TIME: 2 hours
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • A Foragers Delight – Piper Creek Trail

    A Foragers Delight – Piper Creek Trail

    • Piper Creek Trail
      Piper Creek Trail where it meets the sea
    • Dramatic forest sceneries
    • The Piper Creek in action
    • Piper Creek can be described as a natural
    • The zigzag creek flow of Piper Creek Trail
    • Mossy carpets cover some of the flatter trails
    • One can go closer to the creek side with no problem
    • In the summer, the Piper Creek is more calmer
    • Some foraging delights in Piper Creek Trail

    PIPER CREEK TRAIL FEATURES:
    Monumental trees
    Foraging

    ABOUT

    The Piper Creek Trail is located approximately 3 kilometres west of Sandspit, adjacent to the “Piper Creek” bridge, heading towards the Kwuna ferry line-up. There is no formal parking; however, there is enough space on the shoulder of Piper Creek Bridge for two small cars. The trailhead is indicated by a small white marker a few feet from the bridge.

    While there is minor elevation gain, we would classify Piper Creek Trail as easy. The route is mostly flat and well-marked for its duration. The trail, which winds through a mix of alder, spruce and cedar, basically follows Piper Creek upstream for about a kilometre before terminating at a small ravine adjacent to the creek. The dense forest part of the trail heading to the creek access is a relaxing experience and it is encouraged to take the time to savour forest walking.

    Indeed, the trail is short, but it also connects to other routes like Around the Pond and Onward Point, making for a more robust hike. The connecting trail towards Onward Point, notably, takes you through a stand of monumental cedar trees sure to delight the tree-lover in all of us.

    Along with being a relatively popular hiking trail, Piper Creek is also used for local foraging. The outstanding Raincoast Breads, for example, will come here and forage, Woodruff, Oyster mushrooms and even “aromatic” stones. We’ve also witnessed some large “Chicken of the Woods” growing near the entrance of this route.

    Note: There is also a short trail directly across Highway 16, opposite the Piper Creek trailhead. Just look out for blue flagging tape. This brief route, which clocks in at about 250 meters one-way, takes you to the mouth of Piper Creek, through the trees and down to the beach.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 2 kilometers (return)
    TIME: 40 minutes
    TYPE: Out-and-Back
    ELEVATION GAIN: 46 meters

  • Vintage Point Gazebo – Onward Point Trail

    Vintage Point Gazebo – Onward Point Trail

    • Mid day look at the gazebo (May 2020)
    • The still existing head trail sign of the Onward Point Trail (May 2020)
    • The steps that leads to the gazebo (Jan 2023)
    • Onward Point gazebo on a sunset (Jan 2023)
    • The forest greets your hike (May 2020)
    • Onward Point is a place to watch the fiery sunsets (Jan 2023)

    ONWARD POINT TRAIL KEY FEATURES
    Whale-viewing
    Beach access
    Gazebo

    ABOUT

    Located on Moresby Island, and approximately 10 minutes from the Kwuna ferry landing, the Onward Point Trail represents a leisurely, brief hike – just over 5 minutes one-way – to a beautiful cedar gazebo.

    While at the gazebo, gaze out towards Skidegate Inlet and view the mighty seagulls as they dive for food; the abundant seals as they float about and cause mischief; and the graceful eagles as they soar overhead. If you’re lucky, you may even spy a grey whale or an orca in springtime. 

    After spending some time admiring the flora, continue along the loop back toward your vehicle.

    Indeed, the Onward Point Trail is pretty straightforward. Once you reach the trailhead, you’ll observe signage identifying the route as “moderate difficulty.” 

    We think this is only partly true. As you begin your hike, you’ll immediately notice that the trail splits into a Y (the loop). We recommend going counterclockwise – to the right – as it’s the easier route. There is some deadfall along the way, but the trail is relatively flat and takes you through some nice spruce, ferns and cedar trees. 

    If you continue along the loop, from the gazebo, the trail does increase in difficulty but only because the earth is soft in some areas. If you wish to avoid this, simply go back to the way you came.

    The Onward Point Trail is a nice break from modernity and offers a serene moment for reflection, thanks to the gazebo and the presence of fairy slippers in spring. If you wish to explore the rocky beach below, there is an informal trail leading down to the beach from the gazebo; however, use caution because the rocks below are often slippery.

    Please note the Onward Point Trail does connect with the “Around the Pond” trail extension. If hiking the Onward Point loop counterclockwise, you’ll see the trail to your right about a minute or two into your hike.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 400 meters
    TIME: 10 minutes
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Walk to Remi’s Cabin – Kwuna Point Trail

    • The back side of the cabin
    • Cabin windows view
    • The little lovely details makes this cabin memorable
    • Across the back of Remi’s cabin is the Smuggler’s Cove
    • Well-built Remi’s cabin
    • Remi’s cabin with the red door
    • The front of the cabin is a secluded beach cove
    • Rock formation
    • Fern young growth forest leads to the beach
    • Ferns, ferns, ferns!
    • Some sections require some ropes
    • The trail also opens to the rocky beach facing Graham Island
    • The trails skirts around the beach
    • The Alliford Bay section where the Kwuna Point Trail begins
    • The trail head has a commemorative tribute

    Kwuna Point Trail Features:
    Remi’s Cabin
    Private Beach Cove
    Rocky beach facing Graham Island

    ABOUT

    Kwuna Point Trail is located on Moresby Island at Alliford Bay. To find it, assuming you’re driving off the Kwuna ferry, turn LEFT onto Kwuna Point Road and drive to the end of the road. You will see a small parking lot and dock – park here. 

    Like most trails on Haida Gwaii, Kwuna Point does not have formal trailhead signage; however, it is clearly signified by the Stranraer 935 Memorial.

    The trail is essentially a loop and takes you around Kwuna Point before exiting back onto Kwuna Point Road, approximately 300 meters from the parking lot. Trail markers are sporadically placed throughout, but the trail is easy enough to follow, so there’s practically no chance of getting disoriented. 

    Above all else, what we appreciated about this short hike was the varied terrain you pass through: Lush ferns, thick moss, rocky beach and young forest of cedar and Sitka spruce. If you pass through this trail in late May or early June you’ll also get to spy many a lovely fairy slipper. While Kwuna Point Trail is mostly flat, there are a few steep sections – two of which have ropes to assist – so good footwear is recommended.

    Not far from the trail’s end point, a short side trail also leads to a small cabin – built by a grandfather for his grandson. This cabin is nestled in a protected beach cove that faces Graham Island. In low tide, the beach is a safe place to do some beach combing. You can enter and visit the cabin (there is a guestbook), but please leave it as you found it. 

    From the cabin, look across to nearby Smuggler’s Cove! We can imagine this is also a good spot for kayaking, paddle boarding, and with a wet suite swimming in the summertime.

    TOTAL DISTANCE: 900 meters
    TIME: 1 hour
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal

  • Gray Bay: A True Wilderness Beach

    Gray Bay: A True Wilderness Beach

    • Gray Bay – its beach boasting the grey fine sands on the coastline
    • The seascape views are indescribable
    • Gray Bay beach in low tide reflects the blue skies on the water reflection
    • Endless beach at Gray Bay with the camping grounds along the shoreline
    • The other side of the beach shoreline
    • In low tide, you can walk on these small sand spits on the beach
    • The logging road sign leading up to the camping ground of Gray Bay
    • The deep forests opposite the beach cradle the camping grounds

    Gray Bay Features
    Fine gray sands
    RV camping grounds
    Mountain views

    ABOUT

    The Gray Bay Recreation Site is located within the Kunxalas Conservancy and is a true wilderness beach area. To access Gray Bay, you must travel approximately 25 kilometres from Sandspit: First, along Copper Bay Road; second, along the Copper Bay Mainline; third, along Spur 20; and, finally, Gray Bay Road.

    Please note that once you depart the paved Copper Bay Road you will be driving along active logging roads, so proper precautions should be taken. Nevertheless, the drive out to Gray Bay is well worth the effort.

    As you drive along the Copper Bay Mainline, you’ll eventually come upon the seasonal Copper Bay village, which is used by the Haida between April and May during the annual sockeye salmon run.

    The area features a mix of old and modern cabins, which are inhabited during the all-too-short fishing season. If you happen to visit during this time, the Copper River becomes a proverbial beehive of activity as the Haida gather their traditional food to roast on an open fire, smoke (fish) and prepare gilgii (dried fish).

    In many respects, this short period of time highlights, only too clearly, important cultural traditions and demonstrates how they’ve continued to thrive over thousands of years.

    After you leave Copper Bay, the logging road gets significantly rougher – lots of deep potholes – and so progress could be slow depending upon the vehicle type. Keep an eye out for posted signage indicating the direction towards Kunxalas and the Gray Bay Recreation Site.

    Once you reach the recreation area, you’ll observe there are 20 campsites (available on a first come-first serve basis). All are fairly spacious and offer easy access to Gray Bay beach. Picnic tables, fire pits and outhouses are also available; however, there is no potable water on-site and there is no internet service.

    In this respect, Gray Bay, because of its remoteness and limited amenities, allows you a golden opportunity to connect with nature and experience Haida Gwaii at its best. Instead of watching YouTube or texting with friends, get in tune with nature, and enjoy the supernatural forest and its interconnectivity with the nearby Pacific Ocean.

    Besides camping, the major attraction at the Gray Bay Recreation area is, obviously, Gray Bay Beach. This crescent-shaped 3km stretch of pebbly beach and compact sand is an absolute delight and is, in our opinion, one of the best beaches on Haida Gwaii.

    At low tide, one could seemingly walk for miles along the unique “wavy” gray sand, admire the delicate sea life in nearby tidal pools, beach comb, ride an ATV, kayak or enjoy a nice dip in the ocean. If hiking is more your thing, the 12km (one-way) Cumshewa Head Trail can be found at the south end of Gray Bay. Please note, though, that a lack of maintenance has resulted in this trail becoming very overgrown in recent years.

    If nothing else, do observe how Gray Bay is a microcosm of the ancient Haida philosophy that everything is connected to everything else: The ocean, taan (black bear) and forest all depend on one another. And we depend on them. If you have the time, the Secret Cove Trail is just nearby this recreation site.

    DIFFICULTY: Easy
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 3km (one-way)
    TIME: Approximately 40 minutes
    TYPE: Beach walk
    ELEVATION GAIN: None

  • Exploring Damaxyaa Conservancy – Louise Dover Trail

    Exploring Damaxyaa Conservancy – Louise Dover Trail

    • Louise Dover Trail
      The Hans Creek showcases its clear waters
    • The Dover Falls describes itself as a “hard trail” on its trail marker.
    • The bridge across the Haans Creek was built on top of a natural log bridge tree.
    • Louise Dover Trail
      Haans Creek on a calm waters

    LOUISE DOVER TRAIL FEATURES:
    Old Growth forest
    Culturally Modified Trees
    Dover Falls

    ABOUT

    The Louise Dover Trail is located adjacent to the Haans Creek bridge, just before entering Sandspit. Initially conceived in the mid-1990s, the trail is named after Louise Dover, an influential woman of Haida ancestry who lived in the community of Sandspit. In many respects, the trail is an apt memorial and tribute because it introduces hikers to key elements of Haida Gwaii: Important fish streams; unique flora and fauna; ancient Haida culture; rare geology and fossils; and, a larger appreciation for how everything depends upon everything else.

    In 2008, the Dover Trail became part of the larger Damaxyaa Heritage Site and Conservancy. Encompassing some 829 hectares, the conservancy plays host to important fish-bearing streams – one of which is Haans Creek – and contains a high density of recorded culturally modified trees (CMTs), a few of which can be spied along the Dover Trail. Both in pre-history and the current day, Damaxyaa is an important place for the Haida in terms of food gathering, medicine and culture. A seasonal Haida camp known as Kil was originally located at the mouth of Haans Creek, but no evidence of this remains today.

    Most official documentation on the Dover Trail clocks it in at 3.5km in length, but 4km is much more accurate. The first 200 meters are dubbed universal access, and bring you to a handsome viewing gazebo, thanks to significant upgrades completed in the autumn of 2020. After this, the trail becomes narrow and rough for most of the loop.

    Expect a lot of “up, down, up down” for much of your hike. Once you hit the mid-way point of the Dover loop, you’ll see a marked side trail. This leads you to a lava bed and fossils – one of the trail’s key highlights. If you ignore this trail, though, and continue along the main Dover loop, the route climbs quite steeply away from Haans Creek. Near the end of your climb, a small stake in the ground indicates 400 meters of “hard” trail leads to a waterfall.

    If you’re feeling ambitious, it’s certainly worth the effort; however, be advised that much of this side trail is steep and muddy with a couple of rope sections. Early in, you also have to get creative in getting over a fallen monumental cedar tree.

    The final section of the Dover Trail loops back towards the road and trailhead, connecting with the trail you started near the natural log bridge at Haans Creek. Much of this trail is muddy, but home to many old-growth Sitka Spruce and Cedar trees. As you hike back towards the trailhead and Haans Creek, you’ll spy at least one CMT with a large “test hole” in it. You’ll also come across the “Skyline Trail,” which remains closed for whatever reason as of this writing.

    Many who visit Haida Gwaii declare the Dover Trail to be their favourite overall hike. The terrain is varied; there are a number of side trails to visit and explore; it offers a glimpse into the old-growth forest and Haida culture; and, it represents a great way to reconnect with nature. Think of it as forest therapy.

    DIFFICULTY: Moderate
    TOTAL DISTANCE: 4km (longer if exploring side trails)
    TIME: 3 hours
    TYPE: Loop
    ELEVATION GAIN: 106 meters